This special tool required for spark plug removal?

[JPJ2007]

I need to replace my valve covers, and figure with 236,000 miles I'm sure changing the spark plugs couldn't hurt. lol. I think they're original. At least since I bought it with 90k miles.

I see this $45 tool that looks likes it's required but wanted to check with you guys.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...tools/ic-03kt/

[rguil]

dont need it

[95blkmax]

Don't need it. The coils just pull straight up, wiggle them if anything, so don't need the puller. And that other thing is just an extended 5/8" socket lol. You can use a normal 5/8" socket that I'm sure you have, with a 6" extension on a ratchet, and there you go!

And bro if those spark plugs are in fact original, PLEASE take pics of their condition at 236k miles lol, it's not often you see that on an Audi.

You'll feel a big difference!

[JPJ2007]

Haha Thanks for the heads up guys.

[niedzial1983]

Just dont brake them . They snap sometimes

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[JPJ2007]

I'll be sure to take extra care removing both the coils and the plugs considering the mileage.

I gotta order the valve cover gaskets since that's the primary repair.

[JPJ2007]

You guys recommend any specific plugs

Autostore say a double platinum is minimum. Always been a ngk guy

[Dutch_A6]

I'm doing the same thing here shortly, just got the vacuum pump that needs to be replaced and I bought NGK Platinum plugs and valve covers. Going to reseal the rear chain covers and oil plug while I'm at it as the car is leaking pretty bad. Also have some miscellaneous things going on like the headlights/taillights that I'm working on and new wheels are coming in the next 10 days or so. Hopefully will have some pics to post soon.

[JPJ2007]

This has turned into a ridiculous repair. There's oil everywhere. I mean, everywhere. Under the endings, around the engine. One spark tube has oil up to the top of the plug.
And I dropped my small torx and extension into the abyss, I've spent 30min looking for it and even jacked up the car.

Haha, anyway here's a plug I pulled and put it back to keep from flooding the cyl with oil...

These can't be original. But they have at least 145k on them...





Here's one spark plug tube full of oil.... like holy cow how were my plugs working properly...




Finally got the driver side valvecover off and im really happy with what I see. for 237k it's relatively clean.

[SinCityA6]

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[JPJ2007]

Valve cover gaskets were basically brittle plastic...

Really happy with what I see regarding how good it looked under the valve covers with 236k miles

driver side (where my main oil leaks were. 2 of 3 spark plug tubes were full of oil


pass side, only one spark plug tube had oil in it.


Cleaned (Wish I had a part washer, it took an hour and a half to get them to this point, and still had dirt in deep corners)


First coat of paint (The VC screws don't come out, and I didn't feel like cutting little circles to cover the torx holes so we'll see how that turns out)




Wanna grill some food? Didn't have seran wrap so used foil to keep it clean/nothing falling in.




Thought about cleaning and painting the intake runners cover red but figured that might be too much.

[95blkmax]

my jaw dropped at that spark plug, dang! lol But I am glad you're getting it all sorted out!

You didn't have any issues removing the PCV hoses from the valve covers? When i did my VCs the pass side hose was so brittle it broke at the first bend. I had to rig a random emissions elbow that I still had in my tool box from my 02 SS with tape, LOL. Been holding for a year and 3 months since, but will be replaced when I pull the IM to de-carbon the valves.

Note- you see that vac line that runs from the T at the front of the IM then right in front of the dip stick and down into behind the driver foglight? Be sure to check that you don't accidentally pinch that line when re-installing the VCs. It's out of sight so it's easy to miss if you don't remember that it's there (yes, this is from experience lol... I think I drove like 6-8mo wondering why the hell my driver VC was still leaking after I replaced the gasket and I went back re-tightening bolts lol). It wasn't until this summer that I got a code for the IM flap actuator that I tracked it to a vac leak and tracked it to this damn line that I pinched. Fixed 2 problems in one day lol

[JPJ2007]

I'll check that line, thanks for the tip. I broke the one that runs across the front of the intame manifold. Damn stuff is brittle!

Been a long day but I baked the valve covers at 200*F in my oven for an hour to cure the paint. Wife wasn't too happy about the smell. lol

Got them back on, Trqed the plugs at 22lbs and the valve cover at 10. Hopefully thats close from what I read online.

Heres a sneak peak. Taking a break for dinner and I'll finish it all up.

The plugs in half the cyl were surrounded by oil. I couldn't get it all out so I know some went into the cyl, I'm really hoping it doesn't foul the new plugs. Ill be pissed.
I didn't go premium but I did get $7 Iridium plugs... So should be fine.




PS: THESE ARE OEM ORIGINAL! They Say "VA G" I assume Volkswagen Audi Group?

I bought this car off of a 3yr lease from new so I can't imagine they have a shit about the car since it wasn't CPO. So, I say these are original plugs.

[95blkmax]

Incredible. I like how the VCs came out though! I did mine in aluminum color. Barely noticeable to be honest lol.

For that broken line in the front, you're gonna have to go pull off that weird T from the IM and dig out the broken part that's left over (careful not to break the other 2 hoses going into it as you remove it). If you have a set of picks, like a straight and a 90* pick, they will make it easy to clear out the broken crap from the T.If you don't have picks, you could use a straightened paperclip or if you have a small screwdriver for reading glasses screws?? lol unfortunately the orifices on the T are too small to jam a standard screwdriver into them to dig around.

Once cleaned up, you can either try to play with the slack of the remaining line if it reached the T. If it doesn't (time for a quick effective rig), it's gonna have to be existing hardline>vac hose to act like a female union> new hardline going into the T (if you're in a hurry to get it running and you don't have hardline that size laying around, the hardline that goes from the checkvalve by the front hoist-point down to the intake box's flap usually has PLENTY of slack, so it should not mind letting you take the 1-1.5" of hardline you'll need after the rigged union :-) ). Not that I ever did that in my car or anything lol