Q5 2.0 or 3.0t

[tommy782]

Hi everyone,

I'm an old a4 b6 section guy and I sold my car since 4 years. Now, I search an Suv and I check bmw x3, mercedes glk 250 or 350 and the Q5. I see horor about mb diesel and urea sensor problem and I know that audi is very handy. I have a garage and all the tools to do my maintenance.

The problem is that my old car was chipped and had some mod on it and I was always in my garage to do something (maybe because I loved to work on car at this time). Now, I have less time and I need a car with a good fiability. The car will be stock.without mod.

Now, I also see horor with 2.0t and oil consumption problem and I don't know a lot about the 3.0t.

I want a bit of power, fiability and a car that it last.

I want to know.if supercharged is better than turbo and what the argument that convince me to buy 2.0 or 3.0.

Thanks a lot gang and maybe you will see my return with the good audizine community!

Tom

[soul strong]

I went with the 3.0 incase I wanted to tow something. I hear the 3.0 is bulletproof, one of the best motor audis built. Also stage 1 is amazing. 287hp- 350hp or so


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[flyfishing]

3.0 and tune it.


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[VroomVroom]

Most folks asking this question are coming in from the perspective of budget. If you can afford the premium associated with the 3.0T, this really becomes a no-brainer. Significantly more power across the band, reasonably efficient, well-proven in the Audi lineup, and if you so desire, there are huge gains to be found from tuning and mechanical upgrades. Speaking generally, the 3.0T tends to carry with it options that are unavailable with the 2.0T, making it even easier to decide.

I've been very pleasantly surprised by 2.0T Q5's I've driven, but if you can afford and justify the expense, you will not regret buying a 3.0T machine. Good luck.

[BG SQ5]

Yup- no-brainer 3.0t for sure. Also, if you're out of warranty, there's no excuse not to tune it.

I went with the 3.0 incase I wanted to tow something. I hear the 3.0 is bulletproof, one of the best motor audis built. Also stage 1 is amazing. 287hp- 350hp or so

Not sure what tune you're referring to, but all the major ones (034, APR, EPL, GIAC, Uni) are more like 420+hp for 93 octane on the 3.0T.

[SQive]

3.0T. . .all - damn - day - long .

The supercharger has no lag at all.

[soul strong]

Yup- no-brainer 3.0t for sure. Also, if you're out of warranty, there's no excuse not to tune it.



Not sure what tune you're referring to, but all the major ones (034, APR, EPL, GIAC, Uni) are more like 420+hp for 93 octane on the 3.0T.

I figured at the wheels. I have yet to get on a dyno


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[BG SQ5]

I figured at the wheels. I have yet to get on a dyno

Ah, ok. Your 287 reference is at the crank though.

[soul strong]

Yeah... not sure what it is at the wheel.. plus some people think they have a lot more hp than they do. Even I sometimes say I have 400hp. But until I dyno I won't know for sure


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[tommy782]

Wow thanks for the amazing fast reply! So if I understand, the engine is design to take a lot more power than stock (SQ5 is the same engine with a tune) and able resist in time more than the 2.0t.

Also, if we talk about other parts on the Q5, what major parts tend to fail rapidly? Most Q5 3.0 on the net in quebec have 60-70 000 km.

Have a good day!

[BierJager]

I don't know if this will help you but I searched extensively for a nice, used, 3.0T without knowing a whole lot about either of these cars because I simply wanted the power of the larger motor. Primary consideration was the weight of the Q5 and the performance I wanted stock. I learned about the tuning options ( still haven't done it ), TD1, and the 2.0T oil burning issues later. Glad I went for the 3.0T.
FWIW I would consider the turbo a better power adder VS a supercharger for ultimate performance, but the twin rotor roots style used on the 3.0T is ideal for this application. Like SQive says, there is no waiting for boost and the torque makes for very satisfying acceleration even with the lower tune of an Sline 3.0T.

[ThunderDent]

I've had both.

2.0T Q5 stock and then tuned it.

3.0T (SQ5) stock and then tuned it.

For the weight of the vehicle, the stock 2.0T is just adequate. But not ideal.
The 3.0T has much better power for the weight. It will depend on your budget I would imagine.

As others have said before, you'll get more package & sporty options the higher you go up in trims.

As far as reliability goes, I'll say this. Both for stock and tuned (EPL 1) 3.0T, I've had zero issues to date, with many miles on both.
For stock 2.0T I had no issues to speak of, but tuned 2.0T (APR 3), had awesome power increase, but I had many hiccups with codes and MILs, and around 70K miles had major fuel consumption issues that resulted in engine failure.

I would recommend the 3.0T over the 2.0T in any form after owning and driving both.

Hope that helps.

[q5 dave]

3.0T it's a reliable engine, well paired to the q5. go for it!

Not sure what tune you're referring to, but all the major ones (034, APR, EPL, GIAC, Uni) are more like 420+hp for 93 octane on the 3.0T.

Yeah... not sure what it is at the wheel.. plus some people think they have a lot more hp than they do. Even I sometimes say I have 400hp. But until I dyno I won't know for sure

Ah, ok. Your 287 reference is at the crank though.

stock q5 3.0t is rated around 272 crank, GIAC dyno'd 220ish wheel HP

stage 1 tune provides 100+ awhp

much fun, much fun

[AudiDTMA4]

Wife loves her 3.0T Q5.....gets 28MPG most days unless she rods on it and it does 0-60 faster than most other regular SUV's on the road.

The 2.0T with its various issues will cost you more in the long run IMO.

[tommy782]

Thanks for the info's guys! Even if the engine, I imagine that all sensor etc are the same on all audi ( some codes and sensor failure in the long run)

I want to buy it around 60 000km and push it to minimum 200 000 km.

Thanks and all I can say that audizine is the best audi forum. We are a good family :)

[Perry01]

I would have preferred a 3.0T but found a rediculously good deal on a very low miles B8.5 Q5 2.0T Premium Plus. I got it tuned and it performs well for what it is. No oil consumption issues at all. If I want to go fast, I'll drive my Stage 2 MK7 GTI.

[SQive]

I'm about to turn 42K miles on my '16 SQ5. I did the APR stage 2 tune at 5K miles and haven't had a single issue with it. In fact, the only issue I've ever had with it was the oil-level sensor. I didn't feel like de-tuning it, so I had my indi shop (Blair Automotive, Carrollton, TX) take care of it for me.

After it was first tuned, my butt-dyno estimate was around 420 HP. I was pleasantly surprised when I finally got it on a dyno and it pulled consecutive 454 HP runs! It's slightly less than APR's claim in HP, but my torque was well over their estimate at 427 lb-ft.

I dropped it off today for new brakes: pads, rotors, steel hoses, and fluid replacement. I'm also getting the APR CPS, SC pulley installed (I started with the crank pulley, so it's been sitting around.), and the new APR V4 tune. Also, they're checking the torque on the sway-bar bolts, changing the oil, checking for carbon, and installing LED turn-signal indicators. I believe this is my last set of mods. Besides, there's nothing more I can do to it except the Ultracharger, and I've decided not to go that route and blow out my cats. I'm hoping for around 480 HP this round.

BTW. . .my loaner is an APR stage 3 S3, Audi Exclusive Viper Green with the same contrast-stitched interior. Nice! It may have 500 HP, but I'll still take the SC over the turbo any day of the week.

[BG SQ5]

I dropped it off today for new brakes: pads, rotors, steel hoses, and fluid replacement. I'm also getting the APR CPS, SC pulley installed (I started with the crank pulley, so it's been sitting around.), and the new APR V4 tune. Also, they're checking the torque on the sway-bar bolts, changing the oil, checking for carbon, and installing LED turn-signal indicators. I believe this is my last set of mods. Besides, there's nothing more I can do to it except the Ultracharger, and I've decided not to go that route and blow out my cats. I'm hoping for around 480 HP this round.

Nice list of mods! Did you ask APR to do a rev limit fix tune for you (supports auto upshift disable)? Assuming your previous dyno was to 6900, you're going to have a hard time putting down more than that limited to 6400. Even if you did get 6900 this time around, APR only claims 10hp up top by adding the crank pulley (and that's a 187...3.24 ratio). I just wouldn't get your hopes up with hp expectations. You're REALLY going to love the new found torque though. Btw- LED turn FTW! Haha

[SQive]

My dyno run was done before I disabled the automatic-upshift in manual setting. Actually, I'm thinking of turning it back on. I've bounced the limiter so many times I've lost count. I figure re-enabling it will keep me from over-spinning the blower too. You're right about the HP numbers. It's torque I'm after with the increased boost. My realistic/hopeful estimation is 470/450. I'd be pleased with that. We'll see.

[BierJager]

My dyno run was done before I disabled the automatic-upshift in manual setting. Actually, I'm thinking of turning it back on. I've bounced the limiter so many times I've lost count. I figure re-enabling it will keep me from over-spinning the blower too. You're right about the HP numbers. It's torque I'm after with the increased boost. My realistic/hopeful estimation is 470/450. I'd be pleased with that. We'll see.

No concerns about melting your cats? Assuming you're running them.

[SQive]

No concerns about melting your cats? Assuming you're running them.

See post #17. That's the main reason I decided not to go with the Ultracharger.

[BG SQ5]

No concerns about melting your cats? Assuming you're running them.

Not really a concern with a 3.10 ratio and stock TB.

My dyno run was done before I disabled the automatic-upshift in manual setting. Actually, I'm thinking of turning it back on. I've bounced the limiter so many times I've lost count. I figure re-enabling it will keep me from over-spinning the blower too. You're right about the HP numbers. It's torque I'm after with the increased boost. My realistic/hopeful estimation is 470/450. I'd be pleased with that. We'll see.

Well, if you're doing any performance metrics (and appear to be invested in your results), not unlocking the last 500 rpm will certainly have an effect. Although a 6400 limit will definitely help control the IATs, the gearing advantage is a big thing to give up, especially for something like the 1/4 mile. Also, 'over-spinning' the s/c not something I'd be concerned about with at a 3.1 ratio and sub-7000 rev limit. You're <21.5k. A LOT of S4 guys have been running it 23k+, and APR runs it to 24k (which is a figure I've seen TVS refer to for speed capability).

Are they doing a before dyno? Without a back-to-back with the baseline, it's going to be impossible to compare/judge results. With that said, you might very well hit those marks if your ambient conditions are better than before. I wouldn't get disappointed with lower numbers either though. Definitely log the pull(s) for the basic tune health parameters.

Btw- do you have an upgraded intake? A stock intake will starve a higher ratio setup for sure, and that's a double-edged sword with less air and more heat both hurting power.

[riceboy22]

Not really a concern with a 3.10 ratio and stock TB.

I know we've gotten off topic here, but it seems like melting your cats is a possibility at almost any level of tune based on the feedback in the S4 section (in some cases even stock). I would think it's largely a function of the frequency and duration you're really pushing the car to its limits. I spend 99% of my time driving like a grandma because of traffic and/or having the family in the car, so I'm very rarely running really hot. @SQive seems a lot more "enthusiastic" with how he drives!

Back to the original topic, 3.0T no question if you can afford it. More reliable, more performance, and more upside if you give in and decide to tune.

[BG SQ5]

I know we've gotten off topic here, but it seems like melting your cats is a possibility at almost any level of tune based on the feedback in the S4 section (in some cases even stock). I would think it's largely a function of the frequency and duration you're really pushing the car to its limits.

Good point. It really just comes down to heat. Sure- a stage 2 car that is constantly run back-to-back for sustained runs could see some pretty high EGTs, and also Tony has stated that stock cars will run hotter than tuned ones. In any event, the likely main culprits to melted cats are bad gas, lean a/f, and high IATs. I'm just not concerned at all for a car that is within reason on the ratio and carefully monitored/setup with good gas, a/f ratios and proper cooling. Now, a full UC'd deal is ~10% more power up top over a 3.1 ratio, and I very generally/grossly think of that as 10% more heat when ran at WOT.

All that said, cooling has become my MAIN concern in my car. I will not even think about going to a higher ratio until I feel 100% confident in my current setup's robustness and consistency, especially in regards to to heat management...which may never happen. For now, it's get IATs as low as possible and run as much ethanol as the ecu will allow.

[zachf88]

When I was looking to buy the Q5, I test drove both the 2.0T and 3.0T. I was coming from a high performance V8, so I wanted that instant power. I couldn't stand the turbo lag on the 2.0T. The 3.0T had that instant power and felt smoother and more robust. Felt like a completely different car. Only real issue has been a faulty oil level sensor, which is quite common. Buy a dip stick for $25. (I belive 2.0T has an electric oil level sensor, too)

[MSq5]

As a relatively new Q5 purchaser - February of this year, I test drove both the 2.0T and the 3.0T versions. It is a showroom new '17 3.0T. Mods in signature below.

My "other car" is a little hot 'hatchback '08 Mazdaspeed 3. Heavily modified 3,100 pound direct injection 2.3L turbo, six speed manual, with about 300 whp in present tune. That engine is larger displacement and has more power and more power potential than the 2.0T, even in a lighter body.

Let me just say that the 2.0T underwhelmed me. It is marginal at best, in a vehicle weighing 4,200 pounds or so. And it seemed to have more turbo lag than the larger, higher flowing K04 in my Mazda. Yes, it will get you around fine, but it is not a performance engine is a car this heavy.

On the other hand the 3.0T with greater displacement and a "right now" s/c response, is not only a good fit for the heavy Q5, but it is easily upgraded. I went from stock to Chipwerke Pro, to EPL Stage 1 to now EPL Stage 2 in progression over these 6 months or so. The 3.0T combined with the 8 speed ZF and a good Stage 2 tune is a very competent SUV that will not only give you smooth, vice-free daily driving, it adds substantial towing ability and will absolutely surprise many pretty high performing regular cars.

Getting a 4,300 pound SUV so easily to that level of performance is stunning.

OP, if performance matters, its a no-brainer. Get the 3.0T if you can afford it.

[SQive]

Well, if you're doing any performance metrics (and appear to be invested in your results), not unlocking the last 500 rpm will certainly have an effect. Although a 6400 limit will definitely help control the IATs, the gearing advantage is a big thing to give up, especially for something like the 1/4 mile. Also, 'over-spinning' the s/c not something I'd be concerned about with at a 3.1 ratio and sub-7000 rev limit. You're <21.5k. A LOT of S4 guys have been running it 23k+, and APR runs it to 24k (which is a figure I've seen TVS refer to for speed capability).

Are they doing a before dyno? Without a back-to-back with the baseline, it's going to be impossible to compare/judge results. With that said, you might very well hit those marks if your ambient conditions are better than before. I wouldn't get disappointed with lower numbers either though. Definitely log the pull(s) for the basic tune health parameters.

Btw- do you have an upgraded intake? A stock intake will starve a higher ratio setup for sure, and that's a double-edged sword with less air and more heat both hurting power.

I know they're good to 24K, so perhaps I misworded that. I don't want to decrease the longevity of my SC. My airbox is stock. I have the 034 intake hose, and I don't think I have any intake issues currenty. Rather than cut it up hoping to increase the flow, I've removed the snow screen and I'm planning to dremmel out the plastic in the grille that hinders it's "ram-air" ability. If you don't know what I mean, take a closer look at yours. By removing some plastic in that upper corner of the grille, it will be a direct ram-air intake.

I didn't get another dyno before this re-tune, but I have the last one with which to compare it.

[BG SQ5]

I dropped it off today for new brakes: pads, rotors, steel hoses, and fluid replacement. I'm also getting the APR CPS, SC pulley installed (I started with the crank pulley, so it's been sitting around.), and the new APR V4 tune. Also, they're checking the torque on the sway-bar bolts, changing the oil, checking for carbon, and installing LED turn-signal indicators. I believe this is my last set of mods. Besides, there's nothing more I can do to it except the Ultracharger, and I've decided not to go that route and blow out my cats. I'm hoping for around 480 HP this round.

Soooo, what were the results?!?

I have the 034 intake hose, and I don't think I have any intake issues currenty. Rather than cut it up hoping to increase the flow, I've removed the snow screen and I'm planning to dremmel out the plastic in the grille that hinders it's "ram-air" ability. If you don't know what I mean, take a closer look at yours. By removing some plastic in that upper corner of the grille, it will be a direct ram-air intake.

Based on all the data we've seen with higher ratio setups, you are most definitely working the s/c harder with just the stock snorkel as the inlet. All you have to to is run a controlled test with the lid on box vs. lid off. I guarantee that you'll see an increase in MAP with it opened up. Theoretically, you'll get a decrease in temperature as well (due to increased efficiency), but that won't be discernible in any logs.

I've been through every aspect of the intake at this point (I've even plugged equations on a number of things) and don't think there's much to be gained from the snorkel 'blockage'. Even IF it was comparable to opening up the box, I much rather cut a 2 3/8" hole out of the lower half of the box as opposed to cutting up the grill. Cutting out the grill area will only aid the intake restriction at higher speeds, if at all. Opening up the box has an immediate and measurable effect on the pressure drop/pumping losses in all gears. Theoretically, it would be best to do both though.

FWIW- it will be necessary to seal the holes on top of the snorkel if you're attempting to get any type of ram-air effect up there.

[osugsxr]

I've recently started looking into a SUV. Wife has a 17 4runner and loves it but won't allow me to purchase another one. Thought about going with a tundra trd pro, but its over kill for what I want and need. I'm leaning towards a q5 or q7 most likely the q5 with a 3.0T. I'm looking at 2012-15 models with the 3.0T, are there any major differences within those years?

[AudiDTMA4]

I've recently started looking into a SUV. Wife has a 17 4runner and loves it but won't allow me to purchase another one. Thought about going with a tundra trd pro, but its over kill for what I want and need. I'm leaning towards a q5 or q7 most likely the q5 with a 3.0T. I'm looking at 2012-15 models with the 3.0T, are there any major differences within those years?

Get the 2013+ Q5 if you can. Some nice updates on tech and aesthetics.

[SQive]

Soooo, what were the results?!?

It hasn't been dyno'd yet, but the butt-dyno can feel a lot more pull up around 7K.

[bigbadboss101]

Great info. I haven't been on any Audi forums since 5 years ago when I had a B5 S4. Currently have a 08 MDX. Roomy, reliable but for some reasons the past week or so I started thinking about a Q5/Q7. Looks like the 3.0T is the engine to get. Will continue to research, ponder and look for a deal.

[osugsxr]

checked out the q5 this evening, little disappointed in size of it overall. It was tad smaller than I thought it would be, back seat seemed to be about same size as a sedan. I'll still consider it but was leaning towards more of a mid to full size suv. I did like the a6 line and the interior seemed to be more redefined compared to the q5.

[MSq5]

checked out the q5 this evening, little disappointed in size of it overall. It was tad smaller than I thought it would be, back seat seemed to be about same size as a sedan. I'll still consider it but was leaning towards more of a mid to full size suv. I did like the a6 line and the interior seemed to be more redefined compared to the q5.

You may want to look at the Q7. It is larger, but heavier, and will be slower.

[osugsxr]

I'll look into them as well, along with the A6. I do like the mmi better in the A6. I'm really enjoying the wife's 4runner though

[Slyman1451]

Hi everyones !! I'm looking for a Q5 or a SQ5 and this threat help me a lot !!

My wife want to change her Tiguan R-Line and we have a chance to put a hand on a used 2015 SQ5 with a specific red color. It seem to be a rare color. The original owner is waiting for he's new Audi so I didn't see his SQ5 yet. It will be sold by the Audi dealer here.

So if I understand, the Q5 (3.0T) and the SQ5 are some good machines with not real big problem to check it out before buying ?

Thanks in advance.

[soul strong]

I haven’t had any problems, I’m at 75k just routine maintenance and tires
‘13 q5 3.0t


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