How many crankshaft sensors does a 1.8T have?

[SnakeEyesX80]

I recently purchased a new crankshaft sensor and need to have it installed. I contacted a shop for a quote and was told that my vehicle, an '04 A4 1.8T FWD, has TWO crankshaft sensors. I've checked around online and I can only find the one connecting near the oil filter and to the firewall. I don't see a second one.

I've already replaced the MAF sensor and the camshaft sensor myself, but the crankshaft sensor is a pain in the ass place to reach.

Any ideas where the second crankshaft sensor is?

[old guy]

There is only one crank position sensor.

[Tien]

Just the one as far as I know. The shop may be confused, thinking of the camshaft sensor.

[SnakeEyesX80]

Thanks for the replies! Yeah I thought there was only one, but the shop said two and that confused me.

Another quick question: I spoke with another shop about a week ago and they said no problem on putting the crankshaft sensor in. I then received an email from them saying it would be better to take it to the dealer since the crankshaft sensor would need to be "relearned" and they didn't have the equipment to do that.

I've never heard of something needing to be "relearned" after install, especially if I'm just replacing an existing sensor.

[MetalMan]

Yeah, that's a load of garbage.
Crank sensor isn't too bad to replace. I'm getting the impression you could DIY.

[SnakeEyesX80]

Yeah, that's a load of garbage.
Crank sensor isn't too bad to replace. I'm getting the impression you could DIY.

I could definitely do it myself, seems pretty cut and dry, but the place where I live are dicks about working on your vehicle in the parking area. When I was replacing the other two sensors, which took about 20 minutes, someone complained about me working on it. It's not like I was replacing the engine of something, but I don't want to risk it if management decides to stop by.

[BARRY]

they're crazy. crank position sensor is easy to change. same with the camshaft position sensor.

i did it in my drive way. jacked up my car, removed under tray, and unbolted the sensor from under the car.

[old guy]

Removing the oil filter makes it fairly easy to replace. Gives you a bit more working room

[MetalMan]

the place where I live are dicks about working on your vehicle in the parking area. When I was replacing the other two sensors, which took about 20 minutes, someone complained about me working on it. It's not like I was replacing the engine of something, but I don't want to risk it if management decides to stop by.

That's a bummer for sure. Might be worth it to drive to a Walmart parking lot, pick up an EZ-up and have at it haha.

[SnakeEyesX80]

That's a bummer for sure. Might be worth it to drive to a Walmart parking lot, pick up an EZ-up and have at it haha.

Someone already suggested I replace it in an AutoZone parking lot. haha

[Seerlah]

I replaced mine from the top in a parking lot before...damn near close to zero degrees Fahrenheit at night. I wasn't too fond of that particular incident.

[tirefryr]

Have you tried asking the property manager directly? A minute amount of time spent changing a sensor could easily be overlooked. I've worked at a few apartment communities and all have the same rules as far as working on vehicles in the lot, but what you're doing is no different than simply vacuuming your vehicle out, time wise.

[rocket1420]

Someone already suggested I replace it in an AutoZone parking lot. haha

Lol, that's what I would do.

[5ktq]

I think I'd move if they told me that! Get stuffed!

Anyway I did mine from above, with a (5mm?) Hex on an extension, and with a mirror. Quick job.

[SnakeEyesX80]

Thanks for all the replies, I really appreciate them.

I might give it a go this weekend. I was quoted $297 labor to install the sensor from a local shop. That's crazy, it shouldn't take more than 10 minutes in a professional shop.

[Seerlah]

One hour shop time should be the labor rate. That price is more like parts included. I call rape!

[SnakeEyesX80]

One hour shop time should be the labor rate. That price is more like parts included. I call rape!

I bought the sensor from ECS for $54.75. I told the shop I have the part, I just need it installed. They quoted $297. A diag scan is $100 as well.

[SJorge3442]

I bought the sensor from ECS for $54.75. I told the shop I have the part, I just need it installed. They quoted $297. A diag scan is $100 as well.

This shop needs to be removed from your plans. They first said their were multiple sensors, now they are charging 3+ hours for a 20min job on a lift. They really don't seem like they know what they are doing.

[Seerlah]

^This!

[SnakeEyesX80]

Update: Replaced the crankshaft position sensor early this morning, took about 20 minutes. Let it idle for awhile, turned it off and on a few times and then took it for a drive. All seems to be working normally. I also seem to have a lot less engine vibration at idle. Plus I saved $300 on labor!


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[SnakeEyesX80]

Ok, now I've encountered another issue. Everything was going swimmingly until late Saturday night. On my way home the CEL came on, just that light nothing else. Didn't experience any issues with performance or stalling, anything. The next morning I took a drive down to AutoZone and had them pull codes. I'm getting P0171 and P0322.

The first code could be vac lines, MAF or O2. I already put and entirely new MAF in a few weeks ago so it shouldn't be that. I guessing that I might've hit a vac line on the side just above the oil filter while changing the crankshaft position sensor, I'm going to check tonight for any issue there. All the little check valves (6 in total!) look fine as do the hoses.

The second code though is confusing. It says on the AutoZone printout that it's the crankshaft sensor. This was an entirely new sensor I bought from ECS. I made sure to disconnect the battery before installing as well. Not sure what that's about.

Has anyone had these codes come up before? If so, how'd you fix it? Any info is appreciated!

[pkt1213]

Does the 1.8 have a crankshaft spacer like the 3.0 does? The shop that did the one on my car when my Brother-in-Law owned it didn't put the spacer back on. Had to replace a scraped up sensor.

[SnakeEyesX80]

Does the 1.8 have a crankshaft spacer like the 3.0 does? The shop that did the one on my car when my Brother-in-Law owned it didn't put the spacer back on. Had to replace a scraped up sensor.

Nope. At least there was none on the OEM sensor I pulled out, just an O ring to prevent oil from leaking.

[SnakeEyesX80]

Wow! I found these threads, definitely going to give them a read tonight:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-by-a4darkness

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...lves-explained

[Seerlah]

Could be Audi flukes. If the DTCs are cleared, wait for the CEL to pop back up and deal with the ones that pop back up. These cars do that a lot. I have a CEL now and am not even going to bother to look it up. I expect it to go away in the next couple days (same reocurring knock sensor, from most likely torquing one down with the feeler method).

[old guy]

As Seerla mentioned the DTC codes will remain in the ECM memory even after active CEL goes off. Did you have the DTC cleared after you replaced the CPS? If not it may just be there from the original issue.

[SnakeEyesX80]

As Seerla mentioned the DTC codes will remain in the ECM memory even after active CEL goes off. Did you have the DTC cleared after you replaced the CPS? If not it may just be there from the original issue.

I didn't have the codes cleared, just disconnected the battery while I worked on it and, of course, the CEL and EPC lights went off. So it could be throwing old codes then, huh? I don't have a way to clear them unless AutoZone could do that for me. I mean it didn't do anything weird when the CEL came on and I got it home no problem.


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[Seerlah]

You can ask them to clear it, or pick up an OBD II bluetooth device and purchase the Torque App for your phone. I have the Eurodyne ME7 Suite and still have this app on my phone.

[SnakeEyesX80]

You can ask them to clear it, or pick up an OBD II bluetooth device and purchase the Torque App for your phone. I have the Eurodyne ME7 Suite and still have this app on my phone.

Cool, I look into it. Thanks for the info! This B6 is my first Audi. So I apologize if I'm asking a lot of repeated questions.

I had an '08 GTI years ago that I loved and when a friend at work was selling his B6 I saved up the cash to buy it. I love this car. There's some stuff that was neglected, but not too much. Just trying to replace everything I can before I have to concede and take it to a shop.

This site has been invaluable in the amount of DIY stuff I've been able to learn. Funny enough, I found out about this site from my rear license plate holder! The car came with an Audizine holder. :)


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[rocket1420]

If you're going to be working on the car, you really need VCDS. The free version does well enough for most things. You just need to buy a $10 eBay cable and have a laptop. Did the car come with a service history?

[SnakeEyesX80]

If you're going to be working on the car, you really need VCDS. The free version does well enough for most things. You just need to buy a $10 eBay cable and have a laptop. Did the car come with a service history?

I have some paperwork in the glovebox from Pacific German where he had work done. I know he said the clutch and timing belt (and a few other things I don't remember off the top of my head) were replaced around 120k. I bought it at 154k and there's 156k on it right now.

I'm definitely going to look into getting something to pull/clear my own codes and reset CEL if necessary. I really appreciate everyone's help and this is a great community, especially since I've only been an Audi owner for about 4 months and I'm still learning how to DIY.


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[Seerlah]

Best bet would be a cheap laptop with Ross Tech cable that has the license built into it, for software. The Torque App is for simple stuff, like fault code reading.

[blitz2190]

quick question, was the new maf oem or at least bosch? if not that code is likely right for an aftermarket maf.

[SnakeEyesX80]

quick question, was the new maf oem or at least bosch? if not that code is likely right for an aftermarket maf.

It was an AutoZone brand, Duralast I think.


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[blitz2190]

There's at least one of your problems never use aftermarket electronics on an audi

[SnakeEyesX80]

There's at least one of your problems never use aftermarket electronics on an audi

Good to know


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[SnakeEyesX80]

There's at least one of your problems never use aftermarket electronics on an audi

I put the old MAF (Bosch OEM) and the code never came back. I took the AZ MAF back and got a refund. Thanks for the heads up.