I ran this setup in my S4 and was very happy with it. It is not like some shitty system you would hear in a high schoolers car btw. Only difference vs my S6 was that in my S4 I had the sub put in the stock location in the rear deck with dynamat. Although this is not a true open air sub, it works VERY well in this capacity. So anyone who does not want a sub box in the truck could still run it in the stock sub location. I am just lazy and opted to use a box since I don't use my trunk much.
Parts :
1. Boss r1100m monoamp: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S4XNEO..._URkKzbNHGMBAS
2. Amp Wiring kit - I used Best Buy's kit from prior project but you can find these online. Just don't buy the super cheap stuff. Plan on $50-70.
3. TruConnex 2 channel line output converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FN1TXHM..._aVkKzbDYVWDK9
4. Polk Audio db1040DVC 10-Inch Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016GT6OI..._GTkKzbGCKZQJ0
5. Scosche Se10*10-Inch Sealed Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007TJDG6..._TSkKzbA0MXPJ3
6. Assorted electrical connectors (quick connects, butt connectors), zip ties, electrical tape, velcro tape
7. About 7ft total of 12-14g speaker wire if not included in amp kit
Tools:
1. 10mm + 12mm sockets and wrenches
2. Drill
3. Assorted torx bits
4. Wire cutters
5. Dremel tool with cutter. Recommend 90 degree adapter
6. Something to pull wires through - I used coathanger wire and tape
7. Small pry bar or similar
Installation for sub:
I opted to wire the sub for 8ohm. Basically you connect the positive and neg from the sub box to the corresponding terminals but on opposite sides of the sub. Then you take a 3rd strand of speaker wire (about 8in), tear it in half so you only have a single wire and connect the other pos and neg on opposite sides of the sub. Also, the male connectors on the polk sub required cutting off the connectors from the the sub box wire because they were slightly too small. Just put on larger connectors or solder. Once the wiring is done, drill the sub into the box with the supplied hardware. Set it aside. Grab a beer.
Installation of amp.
Of course this requires some customization but there will be enough space.
1. Disconnect neg of battery
2. The amp is in the left side of the trunk. Disconnect the 3 electrical connectors on the Bose amp.
3. Take off the front screws (2) and back nuts (2) holding the amp assembly to the car. You can now remove the amp. You do not need to take the amp off the assembly.
4. Dremel off the back plastic piece that is still in the car (under the piece you just removed). I used a dremel oscillating tool but you can use a normal dremel with 90 degree adapter.
5. Dremel out the front plastic piece that sits between the 2 front screw holes. This will allow you to easily make adjustments to the amp later.
6. I have set the amp to: bass boost 0, crossover about 60hz, mode of low pass, level about 40%, sensitivity 100mv-2v.
7. Connect all wires to the amp and test fit the new amp in this space. When happy with it, you should put the velcro tape on the bottom to hold it in place and zip ties if needed. Keep the wires connected to the amp but don't reinstall the stock amp yet.
Wiring:
1. Remove the white nut on the right side of the space for the amp. Use this to connect the chassis ground wire from the amp. Make sure to retighten the nut well.
2. Remove the 2 chrome hooks on the left side of the trunk and also remove the spare tire
3. Use a pry bar gently to pry up the carpeting beside the wiring loom at the front left spare compartment. The carpet will not fully come up, you just want to give yourself enough room to run the wires. As you pry up, put the coathanger piece through. Tape the wire to the coathanger and pull it through. I did it for each wire individually as there is not much space. You will want to do this for the positive battery wire, the "auto on" trigger wire, the sub control phone cord wire and the speaker wire (about 5ft if you are using a sub box.) Reinstall the chrome hooks.
4. For the positive wire (make sure this has a fuse), connect it directly to the + of the battery
5. Locate the cigarette outlet on the right side of the trunk and take the surrounding trim piece off by turning the 2 holders on the bottom. This will give you access to some fuses and the outlet. Take the auto-on amp wire and pull it through with the coathanger. I had to go near the back to get through. You can probably easily do an add-a-fuse, but I did not have one. I cut the + from the cig outlet and spliced in the trigger wire. Reinstall the trim piece.
6. Put down the left rear seats. Run the speaker wire and the remote cord under the trunk carpeting
7. Hook up the subwoofer and put the box where you want it.
8. Leave the remote cord alone for now but you can connect the controller. I put up the seat and ran the cord to the front console without hiding it. (I chose to complete this later after testing the sound. See the next section for subwoofer knob installation if you want to complete this now.)
9. Unplug the bitch of a connector at the stock sub. You will notice that there are 3 wires white/red (+), white/gold (-) and brown (grd). The problem is that if you try to find these wires in the large wiring loom that connects to the stock amp, there are no correlating wires. This had me scratching my head for a bit but I found that if you look under the rear deck, there is another connector to the sub where brown/grey wire connects to white/red and brown/blue connects to white/gold.
10. Go to the large wiring loom with the pinkish lever by the amp and find the brown/grey (not white) wire and the brown/blue wire that runs with it. ( Brown/grey is + to the sub and brown/blue is -). Cut both wires.
11. Get out the line output controller. Take the solid grey and solid white wires and twist the copper ends together. Then couple this together (via butt or twist connector) to the brown/grey wire that is still attached to the large connector with the pink lever. Do the same for the grey/black, white/black and brown/blue.
12. Plug in the RCA cord to both the line outlet converter and the front of the amp.
13. My wiring kit had rubbery blue and black wires that were supposed to run from the amp to the sub. However it was too short. I thus connected these via butt connectors to the speaker wire from the sub. Note: if you are putting the sub in the deck, you will connect these wires from the amp to the bare ends of the brown/grey and brown/blue wires that you cut earlier.
14. Reinstall the stock amp assembly and reconnect the 3 electrical connectors.
15. The line out converter fits very well on the right side of the assembly. I just used velcro tape on the inside to keep it from moving.
16. Reconnect the neg of the battery.
17. Turn on the ignition. Put on some music and make adjustments to both the mmi, bass controller and amp as needed. Keep in mind the sub will need a few weeks to fully break in.
Subwoofer control knob installation
- to be added in future
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Originally Posted by 13_C7_SC
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