ESP light and brake light switch

[Kardell]

Hi All,
I hope you are well.
What has happened is that one break light bulb went.
I have replaced it and I think since then I have ESP dashboard light on.

Someone has mentioned that this can be due to break light switch which is somewhere above the clutch pedal and needs replacing.
I don't think there is anything else that could trigger this fault unless this is a complete coincidence.
Please advise.

[hortiz1982]

Do you have a scan? I have not heard of the ESP coming on for a brake light.

Sent from my Galaxy S6 using Tapatalk

[Kardell]

I don't have a VAG-COM scan, I have a Car Doctor connected via bluetooth, but I cannot see this error listed there.

Aha! Someone has mentioned that a dodgy break light bulb can also trigger this error.

[hortiz1982]

Without a proper scan, it's definitely going to be a challenge for you. Changing the brake light switch might work, but it's a shot in the dark.

Sent from my Galaxy S6 using Tapatalk

[Kardell]

Thank hirtiz
Is there a chance to connect this proper software via this OBD2 bluetooth adapter or has to be only USB?
Where can I download this application?

[lyleswk]

Won't low brake fluid set those lights?

[shurur9]

Won't low brake fluid set those lights?

yup...the little circle with the exclamation mark.

Also leaky master or slave clutch cylinders..I think..

[Kardell]

I am not sure, but I have checked and it is just slightly below MAX indicator.

Is there a chance to connect this proper software via this OBD2 bluetooth adapter or has to be only USB?
Where can I download this application?

[aslusher]

I am not sure, but I didn't think low brake fluid would set the ESP light off. Is it not a three-flash on the red BRAKE (i.e. handbrake light) when the fluid is low?

[shurur9]

I am not sure, but I didn't think low brake fluid would set the ESP light off. Is it not a three-flash on the red BRAKE (i.e. handbrake light) when the fluid is low?

Actually..looking back..i think that is correct.
And it may have beeped as well...

[Kardell]

What OBD2 software can I use to obtain more details regarding this fault?
Or do I have to go the garage where they read from a scanner?

[aslusher]

What OBD2 software can I use to obtain more details regarding this fault?
Or do I have to go the garage where they read from a scanner?

I would start with a cheap kkl cable (can be found on ebay for less than 20 bucks). Plugs into pc

You can use VCDS lite to read the codes. The lite version will give you the all the codes and some code names. Just have to look up the ones where they dont list the name in the program.

You will also be able to see some, but not all sensor / measuring block output values with the lite version. Adaptation and basic setting are disabled. But it would be a cheap start in your case.

[rocket1420]

What OBD2 software can I use to obtain more details regarding this fault?
Or do I have to go the garage where they read from a scanner?

For the cost of going to a garage to have codes pulled you could buy the $99 version of VCDS and an eBay cable ($15). Or get the full version with cable and updates for life for $199. Or deal with the limitations of the free version + $15 cable.

[Spike00513]

The original brake light switch is about 10 years old.

There have been numerous revisions on the part, to make it better. I think I got the latest one, because mine gave me issues.

I had to jab the brake pedal, so it would return itself all the way up.
Otherwise, if I let it up normally by taking my foot off, it would go slowly and keep the original switch depressed a little. Enough to leave the brake lights on over-night, draining the battery a little. So I had to address that.

Not sure if this is related to your issue though. Was just giving some background info on the switch itself, since you mentioned it.

Might've ordered it on eBay from a part that looked like the real genuine thing, but might've been cheaper and had the logo ground off, which I hear is for copyright reasons or something.
Maybe this is the one.

[Kardell]

Thank you all
I have downloaded VCDS and will scan the system.
If so I am going to replace this switch, thank you for the picture, it always helps.

[Kardell]

Hi Guys,
This is the output from VAG-COM

Address 03: ABS Brakes
Controller: 8E0 614 517
Component: ABS/ESP front 3429
Coding: 04475
Shop #: WSC 06435
3 Faults Found:
18256 - Please check DTC Memory of Engine Controller

01826 - Sensor for Steering Angle (G85); Supply Voltage Terminal 30)
Possible Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active
P1848 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

00526 - Brake Light Switch (F)
(00526 - Brake Light Switch (F): Circuit Malfunction )

[aslusher]

Hi Guys,
This is the output from VAG-COM

Address 03: ABS Brakes
Controller: 8E0 614 517
Component: ABS/ESP front 3429
Coding: 04475
Shop #: WSC 06435
3 Faults Found:
18256 - Please check DTC Memory of Engine Controller

01826 - Sensor for Steering Angle (G85); Supply Voltage Terminal 30)
Possible Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active
P1848 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

00526 - Brake Light Switch (F)
(00526 - Brake Light Switch (F): Circuit Malfunction )

I would replace brake light switch (cheap ~$15) and do a steering angle calibration. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...cs_(Bosch_5.7)

That just might solve your problem. My experience tells me multiple ABS related codes at once usually point to a bad ABS module, though, as all these components link into it eventually.

[Kardell]

Hi aslusher,
I have ordered the switch, going to replace it.
Going to follow this GUIDE

Cheers

[Kardell]

Hi again Guys,
This is what I see underneath my steering wheel, this is the above clutch pedal.



This looks like some two switches but none looks like the one I have ordered, I cannot see it anywhere.

Please advise

[aslusher]

Hard for me to visualize since its been a while since Ive taken a look under the drivers side dash.

Just lay on your back, look straight up at the brake pedal. If you trace it you will inevitably see the switch. Pushing the pedal will allow the plunger on the switch to come out, activating the brake light signal. Confirm you are working with the right switch by observing the result of pushing the brake pedal. You will have to twist it to remove from the bracket. The switch in your car may not look exactly like the new one. This goes without saying, but make sure you have removed the cover beneath the steering wheel or Im not sure youll be able to see the switch, let alone access and replace it.

[Kardell]

Hi again,
There is nothing above the break pedal, both clutch and break pedals bend to left and I think it is one of these two switches, I think if so break switch is the blue one, but as you can see it is to the left of clutch pedal.
By the way I have already removed drives side dash.

[aslusher]

Hi again,
There is nothing above the break pedal, both clutch and break pedals bend to left and I think it is one of these two switches, I think if so break switch is the blue one, but as you can see it is to the left of clutch pedal.
By the way I have already removed drives side dash.

Dont know whoch is which in your case. Just watch the whole pedal move when you push it. You should be able to easily distinguish which switch it is actuating.

[Kardell]

I have replaced it, I think it was factory Audi switch, the new one was fitted without issues.
Of course I still have the ESP light on the dashboard I cannot clear myself, I have to take it to the garage.

Is there any way to tell from VAG-COM diag output (look above) which faults are current and which ones are historical?

[Kardell]

Hi Gents,
Please can one of you provide the right part number for this break switch to Audi A4 B6 190T 2004?
I have installed incorrect one. This is not that simple as it looks.
I have thrown the old one away looked exactly like the white-black one on the picture above.

I know from an Audi man that there is no need to use specialized computer to reset this kind of error code. What he has said is that in Audi it should reset any warning if we switch key on ignition 6 times, if there is no problem the light should go off not to stay on like in this case where the switch is incorrect.
Thank you
Best regards,

[Gosser]

1K2945511RDW
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-.../1k2945511rdw/

I think you used the old guide, which tells you to depress the pedal prior to installing, which is incorrect. I did the same when I installed mine(same part as above), and the lights were still one. Ordered a new one, left the brake pedal alone, and just installed the switch and after a short drive, everything was perfect and has been for the last 3 years.

I cannot recall trying to salvage the one I installed incorrectly or not, but I believe they are a one time install kind of switch.

[obaka]

hi gents,
please can one of you provide the right part number for this break switch to audi a4 b6 190t 2004?
I have installed incorrect one. This is not that simple as it looks.
I have thrown the old one away looked exactly like the white-black one on the picture above.

I know from an audi man that there is no need to use specialized computer to reset this kind of error code. What he has said is that in audi it should reset any warning if we switch key on ignition 6 times, if there is no problem the light should go off not to stay on like in this case where the switch is incorrect.
Thank you
best regards,

1k2945511rdw

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-.../1k2945511rdw/

Iam on the same boat. I ordered it 2 months ago but the light turned off so cancelled the order, Now it turned on but then off at next start up.
I think it just need an adjustment because pedal is not that sensible, gonna adjust it and see if the faults keeps coming back. Right now Vagcom will clear it but it comes back.

[Kardell]

1K2945511RDW
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-.../1k2945511rdw/

I think you used the old guide, which tells you to depress the pedal prior to installing, which is incorrect. I did the same when I installed mine(same part as above), and the lights were still one. Ordered a new one, left the brake pedal alone, and just installed the switch and after a short drive, everything was perfect and has been for the last 3 years.

I cannot recall trying to salvage the one I installed correctly or not, but I believe they are a one time install kind of switch.

Thank you Gosser

[obaka]

1K2945511RDW
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-.../1k2945511rdw/

I think you used the old guide, which tells you to depress the pedal prior to installing, which is incorrect. I did the same when I installed mine(same part as above), and the lights were still one. Ordered a new one, left the brake pedal alone, and just installed the switch and after a short drive, everything was perfect and has been for the last 3 years.

I cannot recall trying to salvage the one I installed incorrectly or not, but I believe they are a one time install kind of switch.

Gosser thanks for the tip, can you point out the correct DIY for installing the switch? Ive seen only guides that says push the pedal to the end, install switch release pedal. Other says to grab the pedal firm for no movement and then install switch. thanks in advance!

[5ktq]

I took my one that failed apart, it seems just pulling on the plunger in unlocked position will salvage it.

Don't touch the pedal, just push the switch in and twist to lock.

[Gosser]

I dont recall finding a revised guide, but spoke to my indy mechanic and notified me of the change.

[EuroxS4]

do the lights come and go???If thats the case.I would be looking at tires and wear.I would also be looking at the abs module.If the lights come and go from time to time or on turns.If there on steady I would be looking at wheel speed sensors and brake light switch.checking faults will give you a much better idea of whats going on.You need to check faults in abs module.

[Kardell]

Hi again Gents,
I have replaced this break light switch following the supplied instructions. Please remember: YOU REPLACE IT WITH THE BREAK PEDAL IN ITS IDLE POSITION (DEPRESSED). You just disconnect the connector and turn the old one 45 degree left (anticlockwise) (you need a good grip and use some amount of force, but it will finally click).
Then install the new one WITHOUT PRESSING (touching) THE BREAK PEDAL, insert it to the hole then turn 45 degree to the right (clockwise) You can also apply some grease around the moving plastic part so there is less friction within the switch when you press the break pedal.

But I have discovered a new problem!
The new break switch is installed, the light on the dashboard (amber circle with an exclamation) is still on. I can imagine this has to be cleared, but in this model of Audi I know you cannot do it like with the other error codes, because you have to connect to break system through instrument cluster (speedometer etc).
I don't know how/ if I can do it with my regular diag tool, but at this stage it is not showing any errors, so I am connected to the wrong thing. I am sure this is still this Break Switch error code behind this amber indicator because it was there before (the only error) when the technician has connected his way.

So the main problem is that my break lights are ALWAYS ON when my headlights are ON. During the day with lights off it is fine and I have not noticed it, but at night the only break light that goes ON/OFF when pressing the pedal is the long LED flat one behind my rear window, 2 main ones on either side always stay ON.
I have checked all the fuses and it looks fine, but I have red on the web that there are some more fuses under the bonnet that can cause this erratic behaviour with break lights. But I cannot locate these fuses under the bonnet. People say drivers side near ECU and wiper mechanism, but I am not seeing anything. ECU is in its own plastic box.

Please advise :)

[obaka]

Hi again Gents,
So the main problem is that my break lights are ALWAYS ON when my headlights are ON. During the day with lights off it is fine and I have not noticed it, but at night the only break light that goes ON/OFF when pressing the pedal is the long LED flat one behind my rear window, 2 main ones on either side always stay ON.
I have checked all the fuses and it looks fine, but I have red on the web that there are some more fuses under the bonnet that can cause this erratic behaviour with break lights. But I cannot locate these fuses under the bonnet. People say drivers side near ECU and wiper mechanism, but I am not seeing anything. ECU is in its own plastic box.

Please advise :)

I have something similar, the headlamps have a small led below the high beams, and they turn on with the brake lights, I asked here and got a reply to check the tail lights bulbs (the brake bulbs more likely?)
When asked here somebody chimed in and told me it has to do with the bulbs are on the tail lights where it should be a 1 filament bulb there were 2 filaments.


edit: found the post. Hope it helps

Abnormal operation.

Check your tail lamps. Make sure your twin filament bulb holders don’t have single filament bulbs fitted. The single positive point will act as a bridge on the bulb holder’s twin contacts.

This will result in your sidelamps being active each time the brake pedal is operated.

[grayjay]

I have a 2003 manual 1.8T A4 that I bought used 1 year ago. It would start up with no warning lights then the once I started driving as soon as I depressed the brake pedal for the first time, the yellow triangle ESP warning light on the instrument cluster would illuminate until I turned the car off. Occasionally but not always, the ABS light would also stay on first time brake was depressed.
I just got around to finally replacing the brake light switch to try to fix the ESP light and I am happy to find that it worked and the ESP light is now out. After replacement, the triangle ESP light does not come on with the brakes and when I drove it in some slippery snow, the ESP light did flash-on briefly when I lost traction, first time I had seen that since the light was always illuminated so I suspect that the ESP had been disabled for me all along.
If you do try to replace your brake pedal switch, definitely do read up on correct installation procedure. The switch has a non-obvious feature that makes a one time self adjustment when you snap it into place that works sort of like the hybrid offspring from the mating of light switch and a ball-point pen clicker mechanism. I didnt understand the self adjustment feature and first messed up my replacement switch. I also wasted time removing and trying to install the new brake switch onto the clutch switch location (hint, it does not physically fit the bracket or the plug connection) so be sure to verify which of the switches you are removing/replacing because at first glance the clutch switch can appear to be for the brake pedal.

Just in-case you should wonder, the brake switch is a simple on/off switch, not a variable rheostat or anything. The switch is normally closed so it passes current when the brake pedal is released, when you push on the brake pedal the plunger extends and opens the electrical contact to tell another computer or relay to illuminate the brake lights. There are 4 pins on the switch, the outer 1&4 pins are just ground connections, the two inner 2&3 pins are the live contacts that get opened/closed together as the switch operates.