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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings theweebabyseamus's Avatar
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    How do you reset DSG adaptations?

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    So I want to reset my DSG adaptations and I've heard that clearing codes resets the adaptations, and while the transmission does behave a bit smoother after that I don't believe that it's the full version. Has anybody seen another process for a full adaptation reset in VCDS?

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings s4matty's Avatar
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    Try that
    I always do this the day before I go to the track..
    Just make sure your car is somewhat cool.
    Or at least below 60°


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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings theweebabyseamus's Avatar
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    Sounds good. I've tried that before and always got an error but I wasn't monitoring trans temp. Do you know if it needs to be done on level ground?

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    Veteran Member Four Rings s4matty's Avatar
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    I always get the error for resetting the counter.
    The other 2 calibrations always finish correctly.
    Just make sure the car is running for the last 2 steps and the E brake is on.
    Not sure if being level makes a difference or not ?

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  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings theweebabyseamus's Avatar
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    Nice, big thanks. What kind of a difference do you see after the reset?

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    Veteran Member Four Rings s4matty's Avatar
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    I notice any rough downshifts are gone and the 1st to 2nd up shift is smoother (for a week or so anyways)
    I'm having transmission issues now and doing this calibration seems to really help smooth things out till it re learns

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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings stereojorge's Avatar
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    Anybody know how to do Step 1 successfully without the error message? B8 S4
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings awwturbo's Avatar
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    In order to fully re-adapt your clutches there is another two steps that need to be completed along with a test drive to calibrate the clutches. Essentially like the way dealers would re-adapt them with ODIS.

    In the trans menu of VCDS find "Reset start point adaptation to factory setting". Once that is complete hit "Stop" on the top right corner.
    Next find "Clutch Engagement Point Adaptation". Again, when that is complete hit "stop" and you are ready for the test drive part.
    This next step has taken me on the high side due to traffic about 1.5 of driving to fully re-adapt the clutches.






    Go into your Measuring Blocks and find "Adaptation status of the engagement point clutch 1" and "Adaptation status of the engagement point clutch 2". You will need these up to see when they are finished. I drove around in 5th gear for clutch 2 at speeds of 40mph-50mph to set it. I used 6th gear to set clutch 1 around 40mph-50mph. Once it is all set you will see the status changed to "Engagement point broken in". That means it is complete. You need to do that on both clutches obviously.



    That is your FULL DSG/clutch adaptation.
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  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings
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    bump. anyone know how to do this with obd11?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by awwturbo View Post
    In order to fully re-adapt your clutches there is another two steps that need to be completed along with a test drive to calibrate the clutches. Essentially like the way dealers would re-adapt them with ODIS.

    In the trans menu of VCDS find "Reset start point adaptation to factory setting". Once that is complete hit "Stop" on the top right corner.
    Next find "Clutch Engagement Point Adaptation". Again, when that is complete hit "stop" and you are ready for the test drive part.
    This next step has taken me on the high side due to traffic about 1.5 of driving to fully re-adapt the clutches.






    Go into your Measuring Blocks and find "Adaptation status of the engagement point clutch 1" and "Adaptation status of the engagement point clutch 2". You will need these up to see when they are finished. I drove around in 5th gear for clutch 2 at speeds of 40mph-50mph to set it. I used 6th gear to set clutch 1 around 40mph-50mph. Once it is all set you will see the status changed to "Engagement point broken in". That means it is complete. You need to do that on both clutches obviously.



    That is your FULL DSG/clutch adaptation.
    You go to 5th gear and maintain the gear till you Engagement point broken In? How long did it take?
    After the first clutch done, you shift to 6th gear and maintain till the 2nd clutch, engagement broken in?

    Do you really need to wait and monitored both clutchs broken in? Couldn’t we just drive the car and let the clutchs broken in, by itself while driving over time?
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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings fastboatster's Avatar
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    engagement point will be relearned after you drive your car anyway.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by TC_S4 View Post
    You go to 5th gear and maintain the gear till you Engagement point broken In? How long did it take?
    After the first clutch done, you shift to 6th gear and maintain till the 2nd clutch, engagement broken in?

    Do you really need to wait and monitored both clutchs broken in? Couldn’t we just drive the car and let the clutchs broken in, by itself while driving over time?
    Hell no, just reset them and drive the car normally. Eventually, if and when you check the adaptations down the line, they will be broken in.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Izzyz28 View Post
    Hell no, just reset them and drive the car normally. Eventually, if and when you check the adaptations down the line, they will be broken in.
    That’s what I like the hear😌. I did all the required steps, prepared myself for the test drive, arrived at the 🛣 traffics 🤯🤬
    Audi 2013 S-Tronic | REVO Stage 1+| REVO TCU tune| MercRacing Heat Exchanger | AFe intake | ECS cross drilled slotted rotors | Hawks HPS 5.0| Vibrant 90mm double wall Stainless steel tips | Resonated Xpipe

  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings orphancrippler's Avatar
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    I think it varies wildly between cars and transmissions/TCUs when they're happy with the adaptation. I did it the first time and got stuck halfway through breaking in on my second clutch, for days it wouldn't change status, so I redid it a second time, drove normally for like 2 days and when I checked it later, both showed broken in.

    If at first you don't succeed, do it again until you do succeed or it breaks. If you succeed, you win, if it breaks, you saved yourself an unexpected failure at some point down the road. (Partly joking but partly serious)

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  15. #15
    Junior Member Two Rings rs5croat's Avatar
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    I have a few weeks & over 200 miles on the test driving I finally got clutch 2 to finish today. It can take a while, just give it time. It has several stages it'll cycle through before it says it's finished. I have screenshots of most of them if you're interested.

    I don't think how you drive makes much of a difference as I've tried everything.

    Btw, I'm guessing the reset counter error is a bad lookup code in the software. Everyone seems to get it. Probably should reach out to Ross-Tech to let them know that so that they can correct it. PXL_20201125_231438124.jpg

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    How do you reset DSG adaptations?

    On my second gear, at first, it turned to Engagement point: middle positive step

    After I drove little more it turned to Engagement pint:middle negative step

    Anyone know what it means? If I drive little more will it Broken in or it’s a dead end?

    Dec 4, 2020.jpg
    Last edited by TC_S4; 12-04-2020 at 09:45 PM.
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  17. #17
    Junior Member Two Rings rs5croat's Avatar
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    You're still good. Give it time.

    This is where I'm at now. After the middle point, it'll do a "precision positive" and then I believe a "precision negative". After the precision negative, it'll finish and show the broken in message. PXL_20201129_222519740.jpg

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by rs5croat View Post
    You're still good. Give it time.

    This is where I'm at now. After the middle point, it'll do a "precision positive" and then I believe a "precision negative". After the precision negative, it'll finish and show the broken in message. PXL_20201129_222519740.jpg
    Good to know, I will drive it a little more, I'll report when broken in. Thx!
    Audi 2013 S-Tronic | REVO Stage 1+| REVO TCU tune| MercRacing Heat Exchanger | AFe intake | ECS cross drilled slotted rotors | Hawks HPS 5.0| Vibrant 90mm double wall Stainless steel tips | Resonated Xpipe

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    How do you reset DSG adaptations?

    Audi 2013 S-Tronic | REVO Stage 1+| REVO TCU tune| MercRacing Heat Exchanger | AFe intake | ECS cross drilled slotted rotors | Hawks HPS 5.0| Vibrant 90mm double wall Stainless steel tips | Resonated Xpipe

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by awwturbo View Post
    In order to fully re-adapt your clutches there is another two steps that need to be completed along with a test drive to calibrate the clutches. Essentially like the way dealers would re-adapt them with ODIS.

    In the trans menu of VCDS find "Reset start point adaptation to factory setting". Once that is complete hit "Stop" on the top right corner.
    Next find "Clutch Engagement Point Adaptation". Again, when that is complete hit "stop" and you are ready for the test drive part.
    This next step has taken me on the high side due to traffic about 1.5 of driving to fully re-adapt the clutches.






    Go into your Measuring Blocks and find "Adaptation status of the engagement point clutch 1" and "Adaptation status of the engagement point clutch 2". You will need these up to see when they are finished. I drove around in 5th gear for clutch 2 at speeds of 40mph-50mph to set it. I used 6th gear to set clutch 1 around 40mph-50mph. Once it is all set you will see the status changed to "Engagement point broken in". That means it is complete. You need to do that on both clutches obviously.



    That is your FULL DSG/clutch adaptation.
    Thanks a lot for this instructions but what is the last proper order of the full adaptation? Could you please prepare operations list in proper order to be sure?

  21. #21
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    Last week I reset start point adaptation to factory setting. Next I was trying to erase counter for start and stop processes without success. Probably the first reseting does the same and there is nothing more to erase.

    Then did main pressure valve adaptation but it was allowed only at temperature below 60 so I had to wait a few minutes. Next did clutch valve and distance sensor calibration. At the end did clutch engagement point adaptation with success.

    Unfortunately next cold morning the problem I'm fighting with increased. The reverse and first gear jerk much more when engine is cold. I was trying it a few next mornings and nothing changed. Probably the dynamic adaptaion ended but I can't check it at the moment.

    I have now second clutch. First changed on warranty because first gear and reverse was jerking all the time. It is a long story but it was caused by broken main radiator and ATF was mixing with coolant fluid.

    After one year jerking has returned but warranty is now over. I did in the summer full reset and adaptation of all items in transmision and jerking disappeared but now is winter and jerking came back only when engine is cold so I'm trying next reseting and adaptaion but without success. Maybe I'm doing it in wrong order.

    Please help!

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by wtct View Post
    Last week I reset start point adaptation to factory setting. Next I was trying to erase counter for start and stop processes without success. Probably the first reseting does the same and there is nothing more to erase.

    Then did main pressure valve adaptation but it was allowed only at temperature below 60 so I had to wait a few minutes. Next did clutch valve and distance sensor calibration. At the end did clutch engagement point adaptation with success.

    Unfortunately next cold morning the problem I'm fighting with increased. The reverse and first gear jerk much more when engine is cold. I was trying it a few next mornings and nothing changed. Probably the dynamic adaptaion ended but I can't check it at the moment.

    I have now second clutch. First changed on warranty because first gear and reverse was jerking all the time. It is a long story but it was caused by broken main radiator and ATF was mixing with coolant fluid.

    After one year jerking has returned but warranty is now over. I did in the summer full reset and adaptation of all items in transmision and jerking disappeared but now is winter and jerking came back only when engine is cold so I'm trying next reseting and adaptaion but without success. Maybe I'm doing it in wrong order.

    Please help!
    You should start with <Erase counter for start and stop processes> after you do all the adaptations steps, you proceed at last < Reset start point adaptation to the factory setting> to proceed with Clutch engagement point adaptation then go for the test drive to broken in both clutches. Did you successfully broken in the two clutches?

    What kind of dsg oil do you use? Audi/VW dsg is the best oil, I heard people putting others brands of this kind of issue on cold weather.
    Audi 2013 S-Tronic | REVO Stage 1+| REVO TCU tune| MercRacing Heat Exchanger | AFe intake | ECS cross drilled slotted rotors | Hawks HPS 5.0| Vibrant 90mm double wall Stainless steel tips | Resonated Xpipe

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TC_S4 View Post
    You should start with <Erase counter for start and stop processes> after you do all the adaptations steps, you proceed at last < Reset start point adaptation to the factory setting> to proceed with Clutch engagement point adaptation then go for the test drive to broken in both clutches. Did you successfully broken in the two clutches?

    What kind of dsg oil do you use? Audi/VW dsg is the best oil, I heard people putting others brands of this kind of issue on cold weather.
    Thank you very much for answer! Very interesting order of reseting. So the order of full process should be as bellow? Could you please confirm that?

    1. Erase counter for start and stop processes.
    2. Main presure valve adaptation.
    3. Clutch valve calibration.
    4. Distance sensor calibration.
    5. Reset start point adaptation to the factory setting.
    6. Clutch engagement point adaptation.

    I have original ATF, changed 10 tkm ego at total mileage 60 tkm.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by wtct View Post
    Thank you very much for answer! Very interesting order of reseting. So the order of full process should be as bellow? Could you please confirm that?

    1. Erase counter for start and stop processes.
    2. Main presure valve adaptation.
    3. Clutch valve calibration.
    4. Distance sensor calibration.
    5. Reset start point adaptation to the factory setting.
    6. Clutch engagement point adaptation.

    I have original ATF, changed 10 tkm ego at total mileage 60 tkm.

    Here are the order:
    1. Erase counter for start and stop processes.
    2. Main presure valve adaptation.
    3. Clutch valve calibration.
    4. Distance sensor calibration.
    5.Adaptation of clutch kiss points
    6. Reset start point adaptation to the factory setting.
    7. Clutch engagement point adaptation.

    Then take it for a good 45 min drive to broken in both clutches.
    Audi 2013 S-Tronic | REVO Stage 1+| REVO TCU tune| MercRacing Heat Exchanger | AFe intake | ECS cross drilled slotted rotors | Hawks HPS 5.0| Vibrant 90mm double wall Stainless steel tips | Resonated Xpipe

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by TC_S4 View Post
    Here are the order:
    1. Erase counter for start and stop processes.
    2. Main presure valve adaptation.
    3. Clutch valve calibration.
    4. Distance sensor calibration.
    5.Adaptation of clutch kiss points
    6. Reset start point adaptation to the factory setting.
    7. Clutch engagement point adaptation.

    Then take it for a good 45 min drive to broken in both clutches.
    The 5.Adaptation of clutch kiss points? What do you mean by that?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by wtct View Post
    The 5.Adaptation of clutch kiss points? What do you mean by that?
    The clutch kiss point is the position of a clutch when the clutch makes initial frictional contact and begins transmitting torque.

    I guess you missed step 5😉
    Last edited by TC_S4; 02-07-2021 at 09:12 AM.
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by TC_S4 View Post
    The clutch kiss point is the position of a clutch when the clutch makes initial frictional contact and begins transmitting torque.

    I guess you missed step 5😉
    Sorry I don't see that step in VCDS, what IDE numer is it?


  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by wtct View Post
    Sorry I don't see that step in VCDS, what IDE numer is it?

    My bad, the lastest vcsd just change the clutch engagement point to kiss point. So you didn’t miss the step

    Image1612719233.570026.jpg
    Last edited by TC_S4; 02-07-2021 at 10:07 AM.
    Audi 2013 S-Tronic | REVO Stage 1+| REVO TCU tune| MercRacing Heat Exchanger | AFe intake | ECS cross drilled slotted rotors | Hawks HPS 5.0| Vibrant 90mm double wall Stainless steel tips | Resonated Xpipe

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by TC_S4 View Post
    My bad, the lastest vcsd just change the clutch engagement point to kiss point. So you didn’t miss the step

    Image1612719233.570026.jpg
    Yeah it looks like VCDS translation joke

    So I understand that this kissing adaptation should be done at the end not before reseting to the factory setting?

    1. Erase counter for start and stop processes.
    2. Main presure valve adaptation.
    3. Clutch valve calibration.
    4. Distance sensor calibration.
    5. Reset start point adaptation to the factory setting.
    6. Clutch engagement point adaptation / Adaptation of clutch kiss points.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by wtct View Post
    Yeah it looks like VCDS translation joke

    So I understand that this kissing adaptation should be done at the end not before reseting to the factory setting?

    1. Erase counter for start and stop processes.
    2. Main presure valve adaptation.
    3. Clutch valve calibration.
    4. Distance sensor calibration.
    5. Reset start point adaptation to the factory setting.
    6. Clutch engagement point adaptation / Adaptation of clutch kiss points.
    Yes, you're right Clutch engagement point adaptation / Adaptation of clutch kiss points be done at the end before test drive.
    Audi 2013 S-Tronic | REVO Stage 1+| REVO TCU tune| MercRacing Heat Exchanger | AFe intake | ECS cross drilled slotted rotors | Hawks HPS 5.0| Vibrant 90mm double wall Stainless steel tips | Resonated Xpipe

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by TC_S4 View Post
    Yes, you're right Clutch engagement point adaptation / Adaptation of clutch kiss points be done at the end before test drive.
    Thanks! I'm going to try it ASAP but I need to arrange meeting with my friend.

  32. #32
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    Hi! I have just connected to my transmission and checked adaptation statuses which were:

    Clutch 1: Engagement point adapted with synchronizing procedure
    Clutch 2: Engagement point: first major positive step

    So probably the adaptation hasn't finished yet.

    Despite this, I decided to start new adaptaion process with established proper steps order.

    At the begining, after choosing "1. Erase counter for start and stop processes." and clicking start button I saw Running for a second and then Not running. I expected Done corectly etc. but maybe it should be like this so decided to go to the next steps.

    Before the step "5. Reset start point adaptation to the factory setting." I had to turn off and on ignition because this operation wasn't allowed.

    After all I checked status and I see in both clutches status like: Engagement point adapted with synchronizing procedure. Nothing has changed after the half-hour drive.

    Transmission works good but I'm waiting until engine gets cold.

    These statuses will change after more kilometers?

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Three Rings awwturbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wtct View Post
    Hi! I have just connected to my transmission and checked adaptation statuses which were:

    Clutch 1: Engagement point adapted with synchronizing procedure
    Clutch 2: Engagement point: first major positive step

    So probably the adaptation hasn't finished yet.

    Despite this, I decided to start new adaptaion process with established proper steps order.

    At the begining, after choosing "1. Erase counter for start and stop processes." and clicking start button I saw Running for a second and then Not running. I expected Done corectly etc. but maybe it should be like this so decided to go to the next steps.

    Before the step "5. Reset start point adaptation to the factory setting." I had to turn off and on ignition because this operation wasn't allowed.

    After all I checked status and I see in both clutches status like: Engagement point adapted with synchronizing procedure. Nothing has changed after the half-hour drive.

    Transmission works good but I'm waiting until engine gets cold.

    These statuses will change after more kilometers?
    The first step you would do without the engine running. I think it is a hit or miss on some cars. Personally, I have never had the "Erase counter for start and stop process" work for me. The next steps will require the car to be started and in "Park". As far as the clutches not changing status, it did take a long time for mine to set. Some other people have done it in multiple driving sessions. I prefer to take care of it in one sitting. Make sure the other processes are finished before doing the "Clutch engagement point adaptation".

    I've only done this method twice to my car in the last five years of ownership. I currently wouldn't do it again unless I felt something really wrong with the shifts and just doing the basic adaptation does just fine after flashing new tcu software.

    http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...rbox_(DSG/0B5)
    [2012 Audi S4 Prestige | S-tronic | Moonlight Blue | Black Nappa Leather | Sport Diff | Titanium Package]

  34. #34
    Established Member Two Rings orphancrippler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wtct View Post
    Hi! I have just connected to my transmission and checked adaptation statuses which were:

    Clutch 1: Engagement point adapted with synchronizing procedure
    Clutch 2: Engagement point: first major positive step

    So probably the adaptation hasn't finished yet.

    Despite this, I decided to start new adaptaion process with established proper steps order.

    At the begining, after choosing "1. Erase counter for start and stop processes." and clicking start button I saw Running for a second and then Not running. I expected Done corectly etc. but maybe it should be like this so decided to go to the next steps.

    Before the step "5. Reset start point adaptation to the factory setting." I had to turn off and on ignition because this operation wasn't allowed.

    After all I checked status and I see in both clutches status like: Engagement point adapted with synchronizing procedure. Nothing has changed after the half-hour drive.

    Transmission works good but I'm waiting until engine gets cold.

    These statuses will change after more kilometers?
    The description of "with synchronizing process" means they are reset and need to be adapted. When you're done, they will both say "Engagement point broken in"

    Here is where it gets a bit tricky. There is some sort of "adaptation drive cycle" that can be used right after resetting the engagement points that is supposed to result in the adaptations completing and "breaking in" with just a short drive. I can't remember exactly what it is, but I know it involves driving in manual and cycling through as many gears as you can without exceeding 35?? mph, along with a few stop and start procedures.

    I'll see if I can find it, because if you don't do that and rely on normal driving to break them in, for some it can take quite a while. Mine were slowly slowly progressing through the negative, middle and positive steps for both clutches, and I finally stopped checking after a week or so, and then upon checking a month later, both were broken in. I know that some people seem to get them set within a few days, but it wasn't like that for me.

    If I find a link to the procedure, I'll reply and update you so at least you have the info.
    Best of luck either way!

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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by awwturbo View Post
    The first step you would do without the engine running. I think it is a hit or miss on some cars. Personally, I have never had the "Erase counter for start and stop process" work for me. The next steps will require the car to be started and in "Park". As far as the clutches not changing status, it did take a long time for mine to set. Some other people have done it in multiple driving sessions. I prefer to take care of it in one sitting. Make sure the other processes are finished before doing the "Clutch engagement point adaptation".

    I've only done this method twice to my car in the last five years of ownership. I currently wouldn't do it again unless I felt something really wrong with the shifts and just doing the basic adaptation does just fine after flashing new tcu software.

    http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...rbox_(DSG/0B5)
    Yes I was trying to do the first step with engine not running and others like you mentioned.

    Quote Originally Posted by orphancrippler View Post
    The description of "with synchronizing process" means they are reset and need to be adapted. When you're done, they will both say "Engagement point broken in"

    Here is where it gets a bit tricky. There is some sort of "adaptation drive cycle" that can be used right after resetting the engagement points that is supposed to result in the adaptations completing and "breaking in" with just a short drive. I can't remember exactly what it is, but I know it involves driving in manual and cycling through as many gears as you can without exceeding 35?? mph, along with a few stop and start procedures.

    I'll see if I can find it, because if you don't do that and rely on normal driving to break them in, for some it can take quite a while. Mine were slowly slowly progressing through the negative, middle and positive steps for both clutches, and I finally stopped checking after a week or so, and then upon checking a month later, both were broken in. I know that some people seem to get them set within a few days, but it wasn't like that for me.

    If I find a link to the procedure, I'll reply and update you so at least you have the info.
    Best of luck either way!

    Sent from my Galaxy S20 Ultra 5G
    Thanks a lot for these informations!

    I will drive and observe the status once in a while.

    Yeah I also saw somewhere shorter procedure of dynamic adaptation but maybe normal driving in different conditions is more efficient.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by wtct View Post
    Hi! I have just connected to my transmission and checked adaptation statuses which were:

    Clutch 1: Engagement point adapted with synchronizing procedure
    Clutch 2: Engagement point: first major positive step

    So probably the adaptation hasn't finished yet.

    Despite this, I decided to start new adaptaion process with established proper steps order.

    At the begining, after choosing "1. Erase counter for start and stop processes." and clicking start button I saw Running for a second and then Not running. I expected Done corectly etc. but maybe it should be like this so decided to go to the next steps.

    Before the step "5. Reset start point adaptation to the factory setting." I had to turn off and on ignition because this operation wasn't allowed.

    After all I checked status and I see in both clutches status like: Engagement point adapted with synchronizing procedure. Nothing has changed after the half-hour drive.

    Transmission works good but I'm waiting until engine gets cold.

    These statuses will change after more kilometers?
    Yes, step 1 & step 5 engine needs to be off. Once you click, you’ll see Running when it shows Not Running or Done correctly, you’re good to go next step.

    Once you completed step 6, you’ll see both clutches status: Engagement point adapted with synchronizing procedure. That means, you reset properly to factory setting and ready for the clutches to be Broken In. You can leave it like that and drive it a weeks or 2 «*Normal driving, meaning no WOT*»and hope both clutches had broken in next time you check.

    I prefer go through the driving process to have them broken in and be done with it.

    Here are the procedures:

    To adapt clutch 1, drive on manual mode, lock at 5th gear and drive between 1500-3200 RPM around 20 minutes till Engagement point Broken in

    To adapt clutch 2, it’s little longer. Lock at 6th gear and drive around 25 min. You’ll see :
    -Engagement point middle positive step
    -Engagement point middle negative step
    -Engagement point precision adaptation positive
    -Engagement point precision adaptation negative
    -Finally Engagement point Broken in
    Last edited by TC_S4; 02-11-2021 at 08:18 AM.
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  37. #37
    Veteran Member Four Rings hunter_killer's Avatar
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    Is most of this info relative to obd11? More so the clutches breaking in? You can’t see that kind of info from it. Hell it’s a crap shoot half the time with obd11. I’m doing a DSG service this weekend and I was going to do a adaptation afterwards, but reading this thread makes me leery about using obd11 for adaptations now.


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  38. #38
    Veteran Member Three Rings awwturbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunter_killer View Post
    Is most of this info relative to obd11? More so the clutches breaking in? You can’t see that kind of info from it. Hell it’s a crap shoot half the time with obd11. I’m doing a DSG service this weekend and I was going to do a adaptation afterwards, but reading this thread makes me leery about using obd11 for adaptations now.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum
    You can use OBD11 for the "lite" dsg adaptation. If you are going to do the CLUTCH adaptation it will require VCDS. I have not seen that feature in OBD11.
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  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings hunter_killer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by awwturbo View Post
    You can use OBD11 for the "lite" dsg adaptation. If you are going to do the CLUTCH adaptation it will require VCDS. I have not seen that feature in OBD11.
    Well I’m still learning about DSG’s so I’ll be ignorant here. For doing the dsg service I plan be fine with using obd11 and not doing a clutch adaptation? I’d assume so. Aside from the service I’ve been trying to get this up shift issue with my Chipwerke ironed out, but without having VCDS for that clutch adaptation that’s probably holding me back.


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  40. #40
    Veteran Member Three Rings awwturbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunter_killer View Post
    Well I’m still learning about DSG’s so I’ll be ignorant here. For doing the dsg service I plan be fine with using obd11 and not doing a clutch adaptation? I’d assume so. Aside from the service I’ve been trying to get this up shift issue with my Chipwerke ironed out, but without having VCDS for that clutch adaptation that’s probably holding me back.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum
    You will be fine without doing the clutch adaptation. I would only do that if there is something really wrong with the shifts or the way the dsg acts (like clunking). I think most issues with the dsg with a Chipwerke is in the way the settings are for the module.
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