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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dondbg's Avatar
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    Help: Car immobiliser in SAFE mode

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    Guys. Changed the key fob/shell with New one as mine was like been through a war and ended up in SAFE mode.

    It should be easy fix and tried the 5 sec key in/out ...etc like we normally do when we change the battery.


    anyone quick fix please.




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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings tloft4's Avatar
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    dont you need to code it in vagcom?

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dondbg's Avatar
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    Help: Car immobiliser in SAFE mode

    Quote Originally Posted by tloft4 View Post
    dont you need to code it in vagcom?
    Well it's just like you are replacing the key battery which I've done before without all this drama...

    I just changed the outer shell.


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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dondbg's Avatar
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    Sorted after three attempts

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...i-flip-key-fob


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  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings i3oricua's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dondbg View Post
    Guys. Changed the key fob/shell with New one as mine was like been through a war and ended up in SAFE mode.

    It should be easy fix and tried the 5 sec key in/out ...etc like we normally do when we change the battery.


    anyone quick fix please.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Did you move the chip over as well? In the corner of the old key fob is a little plastic piece to remove. In there is the chip which looks like a tracking chip from a movie they inject in your arm. That has to move over to the new fob as well or your car will never start.


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  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dondbg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by i3oricua View Post
    Did you move the chip over as well? In the corner of the old key fob is a little plastic piece to remove. In there is the chip which looks like a tracking chip from a movie they inject in your arm. That has to move over to the new fob as well or your car will never start.


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    Ahhh the grey thing, I thought the chip is embedded in the key itself.

    Just now checked. I can unlock but SAFE still displayed.

    This is the chip, thanks man!






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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dondbg's Avatar
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    Moved it.
    Thanks again man :)


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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings tloft4's Avatar
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    If you solved the problem can I ask why there's noodles all over the place?

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dondbg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tloft4 View Post
    If you solved the problem can I ask why there's noodles all over the place?
    actually it does look like noodles all over the place :)


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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings i3oricua's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dondbg View Post
    Moved it.
    Thanks again man :)


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    No prob. Glad it worked out. I figured that after I threw my old key fob in the dumpster. Had to go fish it out.


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  11. #11
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    Exactly the same problem as above

    the guy in the post didn't mention how he actually rectified the problem, could someone PLEASE help with a step by step guide

    ive used a number of combinations with regards to holding the key in the ignition and door, but id much prefer a definitive answer
    so i can just follow that without any further problems

    as im sure ive read that the car goes into a (protective mode) after a number of key/alarm buttons are pressed/tried and doesn't re-set for after 10 minutes
    between each try? so id rather know how to do this right the first time

    great full for any help at all
    Last edited by raybrig; 03-17-2020 at 04:38 AM. Reason: spelling

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    It does fix it. The grey part needs to be transplanted from your old key to your new key. Then repeat the syncronisation procedures
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post
    It does fix it. The grey part needs to be transplanted from your old key to your new key. Then repeat the syncronisation procedures

    Many thanks, could you please give the best method for synchronizing step by step as there seems to be a few ways of doing this (both inside and outside the car)

    just to confirm, ive moved the grey part of the chip over, plus ive only the one key Thanks

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    1. Ensure car battery and fob battery are charged / not flat.
    2. Open the vehicle mechanically with the key.
    3. Press the unlock button of the remote control key.
    4. Insert the key into the ignition switch and switch to the ON position.
    5. Switch the key OFF again and remove the key.
    6. Press the unlock button or the locking button of the remote control key.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post
    1. Ensure car battery and fob battery are charged / not flat.
    2. Open the vehicle mechanically with the key.
    3. Press the unlock button of the remote control key.
    4. Insert the key into the ignition switch and switch to the ON position.
    5. Switch the key OFF again and remove the key.
    6. Press the unlock button or the locking button of the remote control key.
    The above is NOT working

    just to confirm, when i open the car the alarm and lights come on

    press the unlock button (NOT HOLD)
    insert key to ON position 1, not turn over (1 second)
    switch OFF remove key
    press unlock

    ive also waited in the car till the alarm/lights go off before re-trying, still no joy
    really need some help with this

  16. #16
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    Really stuck with this

    this is meant to be reasonably straight forward with the ignition sync, but for some reason? its not working

    ANY help or advise would be most welcome, im not really in a position to pay to get the Fob re-coded and i do need the car running

    ive tried the advise in the link above like also, but as mentioned, the alarm comes on when opening the door (which ive not heard mentioned in other posts)?
    ive sat in the car and waited for this to stop, but as soon as ive tried the Sync (which isnt working) the alarm comes on again

    again as above, not sure if its true? but these`s mention that the car doesn't except codes for 10 minutes after the alarm kicks in?

    just to confirm ive 1 Key and 1 plastic Valet key

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    start from basics again
    unplug the battery cables from the battery and wait 20 min
    reconnect battery cables,

    hold down unlock key on fob
    unlock car door mechanicaly (keep holding unlock)
    insert key into keylock
    turn key to on
    turn key off

    turn key on and report back
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

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  18. #18
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    Firstly really appreciate the help

    have done all the above as mentioned and its seemed to have worked! the car is out of SAFE mode and the key Fob is 100% functional

    it does seem to have drained the battery though as the car wouldn't quite turn over, also the windows were slow (now nearly non functioning)
    the car is used infrequently so MAYBE the alarm/immobilizer cycles have drained the battery out

    im hoping this is just the case, i will put a charge on it later and hopefully it will be back to normal after the charge

    strange point though, having disconnected the battery, the alarm still functioned until the end of its cycle
    which i thought to be odd as id assume it would have to have a source of power

    i will get the battery charged and hopefully report thats all`s well

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Great news. Make sure you charge it up slowly or use the recondition function if it has one. Clean the top of the battery to with mild soapy water and rag to prevent surface discharge (common) and clean terminals.

    The alarm likely has its own auxiliary battery. It should also be rechargeable via the system power.

    I would get / borrow a VCDS to clear codes and re-adapt everything but most things will be fine until then.

    Good job.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    okay lets back up .....

    what exactly is your problem ...

    is it a mobilizer issue or a key will not sync issue..

    if it is an immobilizer issue ( safe when you try to start or starts then stops ) it means the crypto 48 chip is not working or damaged. Our cars use "one time use" crypto48 technology. it is coded to the immobilizer and the crystal is programmed ( that is what is under the grey area in the pic at top )

    you can not take this crystal from one car and use it on another . You need to get a new virgin one.

    https://www.ebay.com/i/253511532489?...8aAqI8EALw_wcB.

    Okay so that aside, if you are just trying to sync it to another key to lock, unlock doors etc then you have some other issue outside of this.
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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Theiceman View Post
    okay lets back up .....

    what exactly is your problem ...
    as I understand it, we fixed it.

    Quote Originally Posted by raybrig View Post
    Firstly really appreciate the help

    have done all the above as mentioned and its seemed to have worked! the car is out of SAFE mode and the key Fob is 100% functional
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings i3oricua's Avatar
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    Raybrig. I got your PM but couldn't reply. Your mailbox was full and I had no idea how to reach you. Glad you got it working.

    Edgar

  23. #23
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    Hi just an update for everyone who has helped out with this

    ive not YET been able to charge the car off a charger (as still locating one) but i jump started the car and the car if fully functional
    also to confirm the Fob is re-Synced and fully functional, so a big thanks to everyone who has taken the time to help with this

    one thing id like to ask, as mentioned above about re-charging the battery, maybe a stupid question?
    but would this be done with the bonnet up as this in itself is going to use battery (or wouldn't matter whilst on-charge)?

    or would i be able to remove the battery from the car? id think NOT as this would probably put me back in the same position of having
    to re-Sync the Fob

    obviously it would be much easier if i could remove it, but i dont want to have any issues with it again

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Either will work, however I would like to see a fully charged system prior to relying on any batteries.

    If you don't have access to a power adaptor near the car you'll need to attach it to a charger outside of the car. otherwise, simply connect negative terminal first with it installed, bonnet up. Leave it over night on trickle/1A / refresh mode or similar. If the charger supports that mode it will put high frequency pulses to remove some 'blocking' chemistry. After that use an auto mode charge until it is finished. Worth doing properly. If it is a maintenance required battery, make sure the cells have sufficient electrolyte and the battery is clean before charging. De-ionised /distilled water works fine to top up.

    Either way, do it in the car is fine. Connect and disconnect negative first. Read the instructions for your unit.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

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