P2008 - Electrical Malfunction Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1 - OK to drive?

[jnicho1]

I've seen a lot out there for P2008 and P2015, but haven't found anything for just the P2008. Below are the codes - OK to keep driving? I'm 6-1 on Chipwerke and it's been in the 90's and humid. Car is driving just fine, just hate seeing the CEL. I cleared it once, came back on under hard acceleration up a hill. TIA


1 Fault Found:
6415 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1
P2008 00 [232] - Electrical Malfunction
MIL ON - Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 8
Mileage: 78742 km
Date: 2017.07.10
Time: 17:03:53

Engine speed: 2994.00 /min
Normed load value: 75.7 %
Vehicle speed: 107 km/h
Coolant temperature: 93 °C
Intake air temperature: 40 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.609 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Engine speed: actual: 2368 /min
MAF_ENVD: 441.21175 mg/stroke
Coolant temperature (unfiltered): 98.3 °C
Engine: operating status: PL
Engine load: 56.250000 %
Vehicle speed: actual: 20 km/h

[ojmcneill]

Just clear it and go on. I was getting codes on 3-1 after switching from 4-1. O pulled box and drove for a week w no codes. I just reinstalled box at 5-1 yesterday And everything has been smooth. I think humidity really messes with it. I'd just clear codes and monitor. Maybe back it down to 6 or 5-1. Agreed, codes and cells are a pain.

[jnicho1]

Just clear it and go on. I was getting codes on 3-1 after switching from 4-1. O pulled box and drove for a week w no codes. I just reinstalled box at 5-1 yesterday And everything has been smooth. I think humidity really messes with it. I'd just clear codes and monitor. Maybe back it down to 6 or 5-1. Agreed, codes and cells are a pain.

I agree the hot weather affects it - I'm going to back down and see what happens. Without fail, hard acceleration up a hill when it's really hot out gets me CEL. Thx

[jdcarnes]

Not 100% sure why there is a Electrical Malfunction code, our flappers are vacuum controlled. Possible that the CW is interfering here.

I had an intake manifold flapper fail on mine. 2011 DSG at 101k miles. Pin hole in the runner motor diaphragm.

Through research, Audi says it does not affect low RPM driving, but needs to be addressed. This is why hard acceleration gives you the CEL.
I was able to clear the code and it would come back until I would go WOT and it caused a little stutter (sometimes) like a misfire.

The P2015 is the positon code, I believe. This should be similar to mine and caused from a vacuum leak in the intake runner controller/motor. Mine was P2007 which was as stuck open position.

FYI: An intake runner costs approximately $640 for the part and $1100 if Audi does the work.

Best of Luck.

[jnicho1]

Pulled the CW for a few weeks and still getting the damn code. Ugh. It's been really humid, so I'll give it some more time. No drop in fuel economy or drive-ability, just annoying as hell. Is there a TSB or something....really don't want to shell out 1k to Audi for a nuisance problem.

[Silverrotor]

I too have code P 2008. Intake manifold flap open bank one. My mechanic told me it’s the valve that needs to be replaced. I bought one brand new. What would be the best way to replace this valve without removing the supercharger? Can it be done without removing the SC?


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[sacandagaD]

I too have code P 2008. Intake manifold flap open bank one. My mechanic told me it’s the valve that needs to be replaced. I bought one brand new. What would be the best way to replace this valve without removing the supercharger? Can it be done without removing the SC?


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Do you have a CW or tuned in any way?

[Ford Prefect]

Pulled the CW for a few weeks and still getting the damn code. Ugh. It's been really humid, so I'll give it some more time. No drop in fuel economy or drive-ability, just annoying as hell. Is there a TSB or something....really don't want to shell out 1k to Audi for a nuisance problem.

The flaps open at high rpm. When I reinstalled my intake manifolds one set of flaps was caught and wouldn't open. There was a noticeable drop in power at high rpm. If they really aren't working, which could be the case, your starving the engine of air.

If it needs replacing it's super easy DIY. No way worth 1100 bucks.


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[Ford Prefect]

I too have code P 2008. Intake manifold flap open bank one. My mechanic told me it’s the valve that needs to be replaced. I bought one brand new. What would be the best way to replace this valve without removing the supercharger? Can it be done without removing the SC?


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You can't. The "valve" is really a vacuum operated rod that is the length of the intake manifold. Each cylinder has its on flapper operated by the common rod.

That said, if you have the end actuator where the vacuum tubes connect, maybe it's possible. Seems like a world class pain in the ass though. The hardest part about SC removal is the damn belt, which can be removed without service position (trust me).

But while you're in there you can check for carbon buildup.


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[Ford Prefect]

Just took a look and I'm gonna say not possible. Here are some pics.

1) the little white arm is the lever that is actuated by vacuum valve.



2) move further back and you can see how buried it is. This is the drivers side BTw.



3) the passenger side is worse, all you can see is the valve top. I am pointing at the valve and you can see the hose to the left that operates it.






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[Silverrotor]

That’s what I was afraid of. Thanks for the response.


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[Silverrotor]

Marco from SEM Motorsports removed and replaced the driver side actuator without having to remove the supercharger. This can be done.


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[theweebabyseamus]

Marco from SEM Motorsports removed and replaced the driver side actuator without having to remove the supercharger. This can be done.


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Thatd be tight. And it only takes about 30 mins to pull/reinstall the s/c anyways.

[Ford Prefect]

Drivers side I can see, passenger side I can't. But I agree with theweebabyseamus.


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[Silverrotor]

Okay than pull the SC off if you have the driver side actuator fail on you than. It is the other option.


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[Ford Prefect]

Or go and pay someone not to remove the SC. It's good to have options I guess.


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[jnicho1]

Just got her back from the dealership - vacuum hose connection (middle hose behind the SC) was loose and not seated/sealed properly. I checked for loose connections, but guess I didn't look hard enough. Minimum charge repair. At least I got a "free" car wash and got to drive around a loaded A4 for a few days. I'd recommend checking those connections thoroughly (as recommended in other posts) and make sure all is tight. Apparently the female fitting can become loose.

Thanks for all the replies.

[Ford Prefect]

Just got her back from the dealership - vacuum hose connection (middle hose behind the SC) was loose and not seated/sealed properly. I checked for loose connections, but guess I didn't look hard enough. Minimum charge repair. At least I got a "free" car wash and got to drive around a loaded A4 for a few days. I'd recommend checking those connections thoroughly (as recommended in other posts) and make sure all is tight. Apparently the female fitting can become loose.

Thanks for all the replies.

That's awesome! Thanks for the follow-up!


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