supercharger auxiliary waterpump - what is this?

[RudyH]

So bit of history...

Back in Mar 2015 - had overheating issue and had the waterpump and t-stat replaced. So it's not the engine waterpump.

I have been having oil burning problems so he did some digging, and one of the issues he said he saw once and cleared it, but now it's not throwing a light but the code is still there is a 'coolant pump for charge pressure cooler' is showing a mechanical malfunction. He called it a supercharger auxiliary water pump. Found it on ECS Tuning :
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ump/8k0965569/

He is suggesting replacing this to clear the code in the system ($1,000 later) and might as well do the PCV valve located under the supercharger ($40 but can be done sametime as it's close to the water pump).

I'm in a bind, the supercharger cooler is NOT covered under my warranty unfortunately based solely on a technicality in the wording of the contract.

Any feedback from some of the folks here. Potential overheating of supercharger causing burning of oil? Generally I feel like there is a lot more problems coming because I drove it like this without anyone checking it for at least 2 years simply because it was a 'well no CEL, nothing appears to be broken'. Power feels marginally down but I am after all burning oil.

EDIT

Added the code from VAG-COM - not sure why I dont this more often myself...

8900 - Coolant Pump for Intercooler
P190D 00 [044] - Mechanical Malfunction
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 254
Mileage: 144382 km
Date: 2017.02.19
Time: 14:57:49



Side note, I can sell my car (which is paid off) as is for $18,000 on trade in for a new 2018 Audi S4. There are some rust spots in the wheel well after the original owner rolled the fenders and now the paint's been peeling. End of day I need to toss another $5,000 into bringing this car up to new again (or around $1,200 to at least get it to stop burning oil MAYBE). Feel like cutting my losses and putting it towards the 2018...

[xpoweruk]

The pump is a pierburg cwa 50 & is located behind the bumper on the drivers side ( U.S)

[S4'ed]

This pump, working or not, has nothing to do with your oil consumption problem. Also, the pump replacement does not require removal of the Supercharger. This pump is easily accessable from underneath, behind the bumper cover on the driver side.

[RudyH]

The pump is a pierburg cwa 50 & is located behind the bumper on the drivers side ( U.S)

ok - this is likely why its only 1.5 hrs of service.

With a hot supercharger - what are the odds I destroyed something already on the engine? Everytime the car gets hot, everything starts acting up. DCT starts shifting poorly and clunky, power feels gone and thats when it seems the oil gets burned the most, but when things are cool everything feels normal.

[theweebabyseamus]

So bit of history...

Back in Mar 2015 - had overheating issue and had the waterpump and t-stat replaced. So it's not the engine waterpump.

I have been having oil burning problems so he did some digging, and one of the issues he said he saw once and cleared it, but now it's not throwing a light but the code is still there is a 'coolant pump for charge pressure cooler' is showing a mechanical malfunction. He called it a supercharger auxiliary water pump. Found it on ECS Tuning :
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ump/8k0965569/

He is suggesting replacing this to clear the code in the system ($1,000 later) and might as well do the PCV valve located under the supercharger ($40 but can be done sametime as it's close to the water pump).

I'm in a bind, the supercharger cooler is NOT covered under my warranty unfortunately based solely on a technicality in the wording of the contract.

Any feedback from some of the folks here. Potential overheating of supercharger causing burning of oil? Generally I feel like there is a lot more problems coming because I drove it like this without anyone checking it for at least 2 years simply because it was a 'well no CEL, nothing appears to be broken'. Power feels marginally down but I am after all burning oil.




Side note, I can sell my car (which is paid off) as is for $18,000 on trade in for a new 2018 Audi S4. There are some rust spots in the wheel well after the original owner rolled the fenders and now the paint's been peeling. End of day I need to toss another $5,000 into bringing this car up to new again (or around $1,200 to at least get it to stop burning oil MAYBE). Feel like cutting my losses and putting it towards the 2018...

The supercharger has its own oil supply so that's not the source of your oil burning, but the PCV can absolutely cause that. Fix the PCV, replace the supercharger pump with a new, used, or aftermarket (cheaper) s/c pump, then find a new shop.

[RudyH]

The supercharger has its own oil supply so that's not the source of your oil burning, but the PCV can absolutely cause that. Fix the PCV, replace the supercharger pump with a new, used, or aftermarket (cheaper) s/c pump, then find a new shop.

Well a lot of the problems are my thoughts, the shop advisor said to start with the supercharger water pump, and continue to monitor for oil problems, but hadnt suggested doing the PCV yet.
I think I started noticing it bad as summer started up, hence why I think some stuff are related.

According to VAGCOM the pump failed in February 2017 when it last noted the error message, so good chance it hasnt been working all summer so far

[theweebabyseamus]

Have you cleared it to see if it comes back?

[RudyH]

Have you cleared it to see if it comes back?

Yes, it's not a CEL but an engine fault in VAG COM, the date it last came back was Feb 2017 but I think was originally found earlier need to go through my paperwork

[JD S4]

I'll text you in the morning.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Hofahome]

ok - this is likely why its only 1.5 hrs of service.

With a hot supercharger - what are the odds I destroyed something already on the engine? Everytime the car gets hot, everything starts acting up. DCT starts shifting poorly and clunky, power feels gone and thats when it seems the oil gets burned the most, but when things are cool everything feels normal.

Your problems are likely separate. If you do indeed have a failed s/c coolant pump, your IATs will be sky high. You can really replace it yourself though. Find used one on fleabay and also don't pay 1.5h labor. Or do what I did and get the Jabsco pump that APR uses on Amazon and bend the stock bracket to fit it. Here is what you do to replace the OEM pump:

1. Jack up and remove driver front wheel
2. Take off the torx bolts holding the front of the liner on and peel it back enough to give you room. This will give you access to the pump
3. Unplug the pump, Clamp the lines/pull them off and remove the pump from the bracket
4. Do the reverse. Should take 20-30 min total.

Oh and my car started eating oil when the PCV went out.

[JD S4]

Your problems are likely separate. If you do indeed have a failed s/c coolant pump, your IATs will be sky high. You can really replace it yourself though. Find used one on fleabay and also don't pay 1.5h labor. Or do what I did and get the Jabsco pump that APR uses on Amazon and bend the stock bracket to fit it. Here is what you do to replace the OEM pump:

1. Jack up and remove driver front wheel
2. Take off the torx bolts holding the front of the liner on and peel it back enough to give you room. This will give you access to the pump
3. Unplug the pump, Clamp the lines/pull them off and remove the pump from the bracket
4. Do the reverse. Should take 20-30 min total.

Oh and my car started eating oil when the PCV went out.

All of this.

Your oil burning is not related to your codes as I suggested over texts. You need a coolant pump (easy install and relatively cheap) but it won't solve your oil burning (most likely PCV valve).