Big turbo guys.. how do u keep ur oil restrictor from leaking?

[Gunnarrrrr]

I'm terrified of ripping the threads off of this thing after destroying the last one, but how tight do you need to go to seal it? After the first start I waited awhile for the oil to burn off.. but this is clearly a leak. I know how bad Teflon tape can be on oil lines, especially near a restrictor. What have you guys done? Torque specs?



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[A4-Mike]

Have you got a copper washer on it?
Just can't see one in the picture.
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[Gunnarrrrr]

Have you got a copper washer on it?
Just can't see one in the picture.
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Nope. I don't see what that would do considering it won't even thread down far enough 🤷

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[Gunnarrrrr]

Or actually maybe it will. I'll give it a try

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[A4-Mike]

Or actually maybe it will. I'll give it a try

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The only thing different to mine is I have a copper washer on it.

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[Misanthrope01]

We use loc-tite 545 on pipe thread fittings at my work (crazy vibration, high speed boats), its safe for diesel fuel systems. look up if it works with oil. far better then Teflon tape at least. Put it on the male threads but not first 1-2. Seals up some pretty nasty stuff Ive seen.

[Gunnarrrrr]

Have you got a copper washer on it?
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Would you recommend refilling with fresh oil? I'm really dreading throwing out $50 worth of motul 🙄

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[A4-Mike]

I would only do that if I lost alot fixing it or I contaminated it

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[evo_ski]

I used the highest temp red loctite I could find after a suggestion from a friend with the same turbo. Zero leaks since.

[Gunnarrrrr]

So I guess I'm going to try a crush washer + some loctite? And just not drain my oil and hope it stays in there? Lol

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[A4-Mike]

So I guess I'm going to try a crush washer + some loctite? And just not drain my oil and hope it stays in there? Lol

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Sounds like a plan. Lol

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[Kevin C]

A good first question would be what type of thread is in the turbo housing and does the thread of the restrictor match it? If they are both a taper pipe thread then the loctite pipe thread sealer is a good option. Also, do the threads fully mesh ( pipe thread with a taper) or does the adaptor bottom out in the housing?

Short story is both thread types should match for thread pitch and type. Pipe thread to pipe thread or straight thread to straight. If you don't have pipe threads to seal the oil then you need some other contact surface either at the bottom of the fitting or at the top of the threads ( a washer under the head).

[Gunnarrrrr]

Sounds like a plan. Lol

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Do you know what size copper washer you used or did it just come with a kit? The 13/14mm oil pan ones are too big

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[A4SoftWalker]

Loctite 545 as others have said will do the job OR the high temp thread sealant @ O'Reilly's. Used it on all hoses to and from the turbo. No leaks with the exception of the coolant line not being tight enough at the block end.

There is no washer on that fitting you are having problems with.

[Kevin C]

Loctite 545 as others have said will do the job OR the high temp thread sealant @ O'Reilly's. Used it on all hoses to and from the turbo. No leaks with the exception of the coolant line not being tight enough at the block end.

There is no washer on that fitting you are having problems with.

545 is amazing stuff, just make sure you give it time to cure before you put any pressure on it.

[Gunnarrrrr]

Loctite 545 as others have said will do the job OR the high temp thread sealant @ O'Reilly's. Used it on all hoses to and from the turbo. No leaks with the exception of the coolant line not being tight enough at the block end.

There is no washer on that fitting you are having problems with.

So let me get this right,
-no copper crush washer
-locktite 545>oreilly's thread sealant

Can I just unscrew the fitting real quick and try to put it back together with locktite before all the oil drains out? or do I need to make sure the threads are squeaky clean before putting the locktite on?
I guess most of my oil will probs be in my oil pan tho, or can I put a vice grip on the stainless line so seal it temporarily or will that just damage it?

[Kevin C]

So let me get this right,
-no copper crush washer
-locktite 545>oreilly's thread sealant

Can I just unscrew the fitting real quick and try to put it back together with locktite before all the oil drains out? or do I need to make sure the threads are squeaky clean before putting the locktite on?
I guess most of my oil will probs be in my oil pan tho, or can I put a vice grip on the stainless line so seal it temporarily or will that just damage it?

This would work better:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0802&ppt=C2392

Use a bit of brake clean on the threads to get the oil off. Yes, the oil is in the sump and it won't drain the pan. After you disconnect it, if you give it a minute it should stop dripping.

[Gunnarrrrr]

This would work better:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0802&ppt=C2392

Use a bit of brake clean on the threads to get the oil off. Yes, the oil is in the sump and it won't drain the pan. After you disconnect it, if you give it a minute it should stop dripping.

It looks like loctite 567 would be a better equivalent to the the permatex thread locker. 545 is only good to about 2-300 degrees, permatex says 400, so does 567. Since I don't feel like waiting for 567 to come in from amazon, I'll be picking up the permatex high temp from oreilly's I guess. Thanks everyone!

[heywier427]

copper anitseize mo better. locks when heated. good up to 1800f.

[Gunnarrrrr]

Now I don't know what to do. Maybe I should turn this into a poll.

Edit: Cast your votes

[Kevin C]

copper anitseize mo better. locks when heated. good up to 1800f.

Good idea on an exhaust manifold bolt, bad idea for fixing a leak on a fitting.

[evo_ski]

You are overthinking this as far as oil drain. Mine was leaking and I disconnected the line and fitting and it dripped maybe 3 or 4oz of oil if that. Heck, just find a small tapered rubber plug and the second you undo the feed line jam that inside the feed line so it won't leak out.

Pull the line off, undo the fitting, put the highest temp red loctite on it and ram it home. Job done. Mine has been 100% leak free since I did that.

[A4-Mike]

Do you know what size copper washer you used or did it just come with a kit? The 13/14mm oil pan ones are too big

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Mine came with the kit so not sure on size.

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[heywier427]

Good idea on an exhaust manifold bolt, bad idea for fixing a leak on a fitting.

Its not meant to seal the leak, and neither is any of the other lockers mentioned.

The copper washer does the sealing.

A turbo easily sees temps upwards of 12-1800 deg f. Putting a sealer/locker on there that is rated for 300 deg. f. does nothing except turn to powder.

Search subaru guys, and there use of this stuff. Their stuff doesnt seal ever!

[evo_ski]

A copper washer won't work in this case because the gap is too large between the turbo face and the fitting. The turbo side has basically a bubble flare looking piece inside it that the fitting touches. So it bottoms out on that well before a copper washer could come into play.

And if it turns red high temp locker to powder then why has mine stayed just fine and not leaked? I don't mean to sound like a dick, but my solution is currently working perfectly, there is no real reason to try other things.

[Kevin C]

Its not meant to seal the leak, and neither is any of the other lockers mentioned.

The copper washer does the sealing.

A turbo easily sees temps upwards of 12-1800 deg f. Putting a sealer/locker on there that is rated for 300 deg. f. does nothing except turn to powder.

Search subaru guys, and their use of this stuff. Their stuff doesn't seal ever!

Parts of the turbo see much higher temperatures than others. The center section is water and oil cooled. The sealer I recommend is rated for 400°F. If the oil line is seeing temperatures above that he is going to have much bigger problems.

The material I linked to is meant to seal threads, so is Loctite 545. http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/produ...=8797960011777

LOCTITE 545
(Known as Loctite 545 Thread Sealant Hydraulic/Pneumatic Sealant )High lubricity thread sealant for locking and sealing metal pipes and small fittings with fine threads. LOCTITE® 545 is a pipe thread sealant designed for locking and sealing of metal pipes and fittings. It is specially formulated to offer high lubricity for easy assembly and removal. Recommended for fine threaded fittings as used in hydraulic and pneumatic installations and small fittings in general. Suitable for fittings up to 50 mm in diameter including pneumatic and hydraulic fittings.

545 is rated to 300°F and the Permatex is rated to 400°F (Loctite 567 is the same stuff as the Permatex). Both materials will work on a center section but the Permatex / 567 version give the OP a bit more margin.

Copper washer: Based on the picture, the housing does not appear to be machined for a washer. Right below the fitting it looks like its as cast.

I checked the spec sheet for a GT2871R and the housing fitting should be a 0.4375IN-24 thread for a 6.35mm tube, inverted flare.

The AN to turbo fitting should have a recess for a flare fitting, no sealer or copper washer needed at the turbo. These fittings should be correct for your turbo (EDIT: see Evo-Ski's post above... It took me a way too long to put this together).

http://www.himni-racing.com/fittings...n-gt-bb-turbos



The turbo housing should have this fitting:
GT2871R_oil_Fitting.JPG


https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbo...47_2_4_new.pdf

OP: I would verify the fitting on your center section and make sure you get one that matches.

[Gunnarrrrr]

confirmed that the fitting is 7/16-24, the gt25, gt28, gt30, gt35, etc all use the same fitting.

You're correct, the housing is not machined, and even if there was a small enough gap to seal the restrictor against a crush washer, it wouldn't seal on the turbo side with the non-machined cast texture.

Just picked up some permatex, I'll report back in a couple days.