Tool for holding crankshaft during TB/Waterpump job

[macsA4]

I’m in the middle of TB/Water pump job on the 1.8L turbo. I cannot get the crank bolt free; have tried multiple applications of PB Blaster, rapping on it with a mallet, and lots of force using a pipe on a breaker bar. To hold the sprocket I made 2 short metal pieces attaching the threaded sprocket holes to TB cover holes in the block. I’m considering buying a tool I saw online, looks to be 2 ft long or so. Couple of questions:

Any other tricks to free this bolt? (I will try a torch in the next day or so).

If I allow the crank to rotate about 30 degrees or so I can get one of my homemade tools to catch on snub mount bracket - Will rotating the crank ccw cause any damage? (everything I have read about turning the engine over by hand states Clockwise Only - I'm not familiar with the valve sequencing vs. piston movement).

Thanks!

Mike

[Jetdr53]

I'd use an impact tool personally and if you heat it, try and heat the area surrounding the bolt, not the bolt itself. This will tighten the bolt not the other way around. Might soak it with WD40 or liquid wrench overnight as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[macsA4]

Thanks Jetdr53

I did use a fair bit of PB Blaster (penetrating oil) but have not heated the bolt yet. I ordered a crank counter hold tool from USP Motorsports which will arrive Friday night. Unfortunately I don't have an impact tool.
I'll give it another go this weekend with the tool, it bolts to all 4 pulley holes so I'm hopeful it will provide the needed resistance.

As for heating around the bolt that would be the crank itself. Since I'll be replacing the bolt anyway I don't mind heating it, beating it etc. Shouldn't heating the bolt have the same result for loosening up any thread lock?

Thanks

Mike

[Jetdr53]

Heating the bolt will expand the bolt more than the surrounding metal thus tightening it but you are correct that it will breakdown the thread lock. Harbor freight might have an impact cheap and my opinion, the go to on this bolt.
With the holder tool, Im sure you will get it. Might also use a pipe extension on your breaker bar. Less effort with little force on your part.

Good luck Mike


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[PZ.]

You don't need to remove the crank bolt to change the timing belt. Remove the smaller bolts holding the pulley to the crank.

[macsA4]

You don't need to remove the crank bolt to change the timing belt. Remove the smaller bolts holding the pulley to the crank.

Hi PZ, I did consider doing that, replacing just the belt & tensioner and the water pump. However I want to change the crank & cam seals so need to remove the sprockets. The existing seals appear ok but I'm not certain they have been changed before, car has about 148K miles.

Thanks

Mike

[macsA4]

Thanks - I just checked & HF does have an electric impact wrench for $50 so probably a good investment. The counter hold tool from USP arrived last night. It has unthreaded studs that fit into the 4 holes in crank sprocket. The tool is 32" long & hefty - I'll report back.

Thanks for the advice.

Mike

[macsA4]

Finally finished the timing belt and water pump job over the weekend.

I bought a counterhold tool for the crank sprocket from USP - turns out it does not fit my engine, even though you can put your car/series into the website & get thumbs up. So I'm out the $33 shipping the tool to me, and they also will not pay to return it. Listed as a "universal tool" with the caveat it may require modification to fit your car. True, I could grind off 3 studs, use one and have a machine shop match drill 3 new holes & press fit studs to fit the sprocket on the 1.8L. I think the tool is likely made for the 2.0L motor. Mine has hole spacing that varies (1 5/16" to about 1 3/8"; tool is symmetrical all holes spaced at 1 5/8")

Anyway, enough venting. I finished the job after redoing the tensioner about 3 times to get the gap correct. All seems to work well, just wish I could have also changed the crank and cam seals. I'm hoping I won't need to before the next TB comes due, at which time I may not own the car.

Jetdr53

Thanks for the advice on getting an impact wrench, probably will before the next big job.

Mike

[PZ.]

I have not seen a 1.8T with a leaking crank, but it does happen from time to time. I've only seen 1 leaking cam seal on a 1.8T and that was with 200K on it. I've done dozens of timing belts.
I also have the HF electric impact. I only used to use it on the spring compressors when I change out suspensions. It has lasted well over 12 years and 100 installs.

[macsA4]

Thanks PZ, good to know.

This is my first Audi. I have owned a few Volvos, didn't experience leaking seals on those either. Oil cooler lines on the Volvo 5 cyl are a real pain - and they do tend to leak after the miles.

Thanks

Mike

[caluma4x4]

Finally finished the timing belt and water pump job over the weekend.

I bought a counterhold tool for the crank sprocket from USP - turns out it does not fit my engine, even though you can put your car/series into the website & get thumbs up. So I'm out the $33 shipping the tool to me, and they also will not pay to return it. Listed as a "universal tool" with the caveat it may require modification to fit your car. True, I could grind off 3 studs, use one and have a machine shop match drill 3 new holes & press fit studs to fit the sprocket on the 1.8L. I think the tool is likely made for the 2.0L motor. Mine has hole spacing that varies (1 5/16" to about 1 3/8"; tool is symmetrical all holes spaced at 1 5/8")

Anyway, enough venting. I finished the job after redoing the tensioner about 3 times to get the gap correct. All seems to work well, just wish I could have also changed the crank and cam seals. I'm hoping I won't need to before the next TB comes due, at which time I may not own the car.

Jetdr53

Thanks for the advice on getting an impact wrench, probably will before the next big job.

Mike

All you need is the double square/hex socket and a breaker bar, have someone hold the socket on to the bolt and turn the bolt till the breaker bar handle rests on the drivers side chassis leg, then put your hand on the ignition key and quickly flick it as if starting and switching straight off again. The starter motor has plenty of power to free the bolt no problems, hope this helps you out next time.

[Jetdr53]

Finally finished the timing belt and water pump job over the weekend.

I bought a counterhold tool for the crank sprocket from USP - turns out it does not fit my engine, even though you can put your car/series into the website & get thumbs up. So I'm out the $33 shipping the tool to me, and they also will not pay to return it. Listed as a "universal tool" with the caveat it may require modification to fit your car. True, I could grind off 3 studs, use one and have a machine shop match drill 3 new holes & press fit studs to fit the sprocket on the 1.8L. I think the tool is likely made for the 2.0L motor. Mine has hole spacing that varies (1 5/16" to about 1 3/8"; tool is symmetrical all holes spaced at 1 5/8")

Anyway, enough venting. I finished the job after redoing the tensioner about 3 times to get the gap correct. All seems to work well, just wish I could have also changed the crank and cam seals. I'm hoping I won't need to before the next TB comes due, at which time I may not own the car.

Jetdr53

Thanks for the advice on getting an impact wrench, probably will before the next big job.

Mike

Happy to help when I can. Awesome you got it done!



Sent from my iPhone using Audizine