Dreaded P0089 CEL code came back

[blakefife]

Exactly what happened when this happened to me. Replaced LPFP and fuel filter and was good to go.

Thanks for the input man.

Someone else chimed in earlier and said the same happened to theirs.

Pump will be here Monday morning. I will install Monday afternoon and post back with results from Vagcom blocks 103 106 and 14.

[blakefife]

OK replaced new fuel pump this morning. had no issues installing seemed pretty straight forward. turned key on, can hear new pump running... waited like ten seconds before starting to prime lines and it still wont start. i found two very small tiny pieces of debris in the tank which i removed. there was a little sediment buildup on the old pump nothing crazy or suspicious looking....

Here are numbers from sitting in my driveway trying to start cold:

Address 01: Engine (8E0 910 115 M)

08:43:14 Group 103: Fuel Injection (Fuel Pump Adaptation)
6.18 bar Current Fuel Pressure
0 Fuel Pressure Regulator <<<<< This value was 125 with the old lpfp... what is this value?
3000 Adaptation Value elect. Fuel Pump
Test OFF Fuel Pump Adapt. Status <<<<< this said "ADP. Run Fuel Pump Adapt. Status" with the original lpfp as well. what is this?

08:43:14 Group 106: Fuel Injection (Fuel Supply System)
72.3 bar Fuel Rail Pressure (actual)
11.0 % Electric Fuel Pump 1/2
Electric Fuel Pump 3/4
655.35 s Fuel Pump Shut-Off Time

08:43:14 Group 014: Ignition (Misfire Recognition - Total)
0 /min Engine Speed (G28)
100.0 % Engine Load
0 Misfire Counter
Disabled Misfire Recognition

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Address 01: Engine (8E0 910 115 M)

08:43:39 Group 103: Fuel Injection (Fuel Pump Adaptation)
6.16 bar Current Fuel Pressure
0 Fuel Pressure Regulator
3000 Adaptation Value elect. Fuel Pump
Test OFF Fuel Pump Adapt. Status

08:43:39 Group 106: Fuel Injection (Fuel Supply System)
72.3 bar Fuel Rail Pressure (actual)
11.0 % Electric Fuel Pump 1/2
Electric Fuel Pump 3/4
655.35 s Fuel Pump Shut-Off Time

08:43:39 Group 014: Ignition (Misfire Recognition - Total)
0 /min Engine Speed (G28)
100.0 % Engine Load
0 Misfire Counter
Disabled Misfire Recognition

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Address 01: Engine (8E0 910 115 M)

08:43:47 Group 103: Fuel Injection (Fuel Pump Adaptation)
6.12 bar Current Fuel Pressure
0 Fuel Pressure Regulator
3000 Adaptation Value elect. Fuel Pump
Test OFF Fuel Pump Adapt. Status

08:43:47 Group 106: Fuel Injection (Fuel Supply System)
72.3 bar Fuel Rail Pressure (actual)
11.0 % Electric Fuel Pump 1/2
Electric Fuel Pump 3/4
655.35 s Fuel Pump Shut-Off Time

08:43:47 Group 014: Ignition (Misfire Recognition - Total)
0 /min Engine Speed (G28)
100.0 % Engine Load
0 Misfire Counter
Disabled Misfire Recognition

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Address 01: DTCs cleared
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Address 01: Engine (8E0 910 115 M)

08:50:10 Group 103: Fuel Injection (Fuel Pump Adaptation)
6.31 bar Current Fuel Pressure
26 Fuel Pressure Regulator
3000 Adaptation Value elect. Fuel Pump
Test OFF Fuel Pump Adapt. Status

08:50:10 Group 106: Fuel Injection (Fuel Supply System)
60.2 bar Fuel Rail Pressure (actual)
11.0 % Electric Fuel Pump 1/2
Electric Fuel Pump 3/4
655.35 s Fuel Pump Shut-Off Time

08:50:10 Group 014: Ignition (Misfire Recognition - Total)
0 /min Engine Speed (G28)
71.4 % Engine Load
0 Misfire Counter
Disabled Misfire Recognition

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Address 01: Engine (8E0 910 115 M)

08:55:11 Group 103: Fuel Injection (Fuel Pump Adaptation)
6.17 bar Current Fuel Pressure
-4 Fuel Pressure Regulator
3000 Adaptation Value elect. Fuel Pump
Test OFF Fuel Pump Adapt. Status

08:55:11 Group 106: Fuel Injection (Fuel Supply System)
70.4 bar Fuel Rail Pressure (actual)
11.0 % Electric Fuel Pump 1/2
Electric Fuel Pump 3/4
655.35 s Fuel Pump Shut-Off Time

08:55:11 Group 014: Ignition (Misfire Recognition - Total)
0 /min Engine Speed (G28)
100.0 % Engine Load
0 Misfire Counter
Disabled Misfire Recognition


One thing i see is the fuel pressure at the rail changing from 72-60 sometimes i see it at 58psi.... could it be the fuel pressure relief valve?
Like this?


Also, why is duty load at 11% on lpfp while trying to start cold?

After researching more around google, I suspect that N276 valve on HPFP is bad or going bad. The other day I was trying to start and the engine would kind of go but sputter out like it wasnt getting enough fuel... so i opened the hood and disconnected the N276 plug and then tried starting again, absolutely no firing just engine crankshaft rotating over....

Also, upon further investigation I have learned that this is also the Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve (n276). I was thinking it was the little spring loaded valve that is on the fuel rail that relieves/balances pressure.
So when the error code on the scanner says "Fuel pressure regulator" i wasnt sure how it could get values from a little spring loaded valve... now this makes more sense.... the N276 valve is bad.


update: i pulled my camshaft sensor and i noticed a ton of oil sludge built up on it. I wiped her clean and reinstalled. Still problem persists. Like what this guy did. (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/s...unction/page3)
update 2: cracked open the fuel line off the Fuel pressure relief valve and heard it depressurize and drip some fuel. Didnt have a wrench to get that valve out. Plugged line back in. problem persists

[blakefife]

After all of this I do remember one thing.


When I went to use the seafoam the other week I noticed something odd when I removed my oil cap while the engine was running...
As soon as i tried to remove my oil cap with engine idling, the cap was almost stuck and under a lot of suction...
I was able to remove it and once I did, the engine started idling rough and funny almost ready to stall.... so i put the cap back on quickly after i dumped an oz or two of seafoam in the oil.

What does this mean? Bad PCV? I understand there should be some vacuum when removed but this was like almost stuck so damn good it had me wondering....

pulled the PCV and man was it FILTHY inside! i guess this is bad idk why im excited....

Pictures:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B58...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B58...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B58...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B58...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B58...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B58...ew?usp=sharing

Also i tried blowing through the diagphram on there and from either side it allows a decent amount of air through. the first time i blew air through it, i heard the diagphram move inside, then nothing all attempts after that...
part number: 06f 129 101n
thats what was on the car.... does it seem original?

[B7S3wannabi]

Excessive crankcase vacuum = bad pcv

[blakefife]

Excessive crankcase vacuum = bad pcv

is there an updated pcv for this part no. 06f 129 101n?

[B7S3wannabi]

is there an updated pcv for this part no. 06f 129 101n?

What year is yours?

[Theiceman]

okay so getting back to the fuel pump , the car was running and starting fine but was just giving a code .... now you put in a new fuel pump and it wont even start ?
I would say unless there is something you have to do in VAG com to setup the pump I would recheck my work and make sure there is not pinched feed lines or anything.

[blakefife]

What year is yours?

06. MFG June 2005.

[blakefife]

okay so getting back to the fuel pump , the car was running and starting fine but was just giving a code .... now you put in a new fuel pump and it wont even start ?
I would say unless there is something you have to do in VAG com to setup the pump I would recheck my work and make sure there is not pinched feed lines or anything.

Naw see the car wouldnt even start with the old pump, sometimes it would. It was okay about a year ago but just 2 months ago after 3 oil changes the p0089 seem to come back which would make it start rough or sometimes not at all.

The new fuel pump is displaying numbers within spec now... did you see my pcv valve? It was loaded with sludge like it had NEVER been cleaned!! The port closest the firewall was nearly closed due to sludge! I carefully used a scraper to pull the gunk outwards... most likely will take the valve cover off and clean er out...

New pcv valve on the way from Europa, should be here tomorrow afternoon. Ill put er on and post back results.

So to reiterate, thus far have replaced these parts in this exact order starting from top to bottom:

always Mobil 1 0W-40 European Spec every 5,000mi
new N80 valve BWD
new oreillys ignition coils
new denso spark plugs
new Cam Position Sensor
new G410 Low pressure fuel sensor
new Mann Fuel Filter
new lambda oxygen sensor
new VDO Low Pressure Fuel Pump
new PCV Valve "Breather Valve" 06f 129 101N from Europa
new fuel pressure regulator valve 126bar from ECS Tuning part no. 06D130757C <-------------- I am currently here with a funny idle and burps upon deceleration.

[blakefife]

Naw see the car wouldnt even start with the old pump, sometimes it would. It was okay about a year ago but just 2 months ago after 3 oil changes the p0089 seem to come back which would make it start rough or sometimes not at all.

The new fuel pump is displaying numbers within spec now... did you see my pcv valve? It was loaded with sludge like it had NEVER been cleaned!! The port closest the firewall was nearly closed due to sludge! I carefully used a scraper to pull the gunk outwards... most likely will take the valve cover off and clean er out...

New pcv valve on the way from Europa, should be here tomorrow afternoon. Ill put er on and post back results.

So to reiterate, thus far have replaced these parts in this exact order starting from top to bottom:

always Mobil 1 0W-40 European Spec every 5,000mi
new oreillys ignition coils
new denso spark plugs
new Cam Position Sensor
new G410 Low pressure fuel sensor
new Mann Fuel Filter
new lambda oxygen sensor
new VDO Low Pressure Fuel Pump <-------------- I am currently here still with no start and p0089.

next: new PCV Valve "Breather Valve" 06f 129 101N from Europa
pictures of old valve in previous post.

Installed the new PCV Valve... still not starting. If i put my foot all the way to the floor it sounds like and feels like it wants to start and run. Running vagcom now.

Friday,07,July,2017,16:44:46:17646
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 7 x64
VCDS Version: 17.1.3.0 HEX-V2 CB: 0.4341.4
Data version: 20170320 DS267.7
www.Ross-Tech.com




Chassis Type: 8E (8E - Audi A4/S4/RS4 B6/B7 (2001 > 2008))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 11 15 16 17 18 25 36 37 45 46 55 56 57 65
67 69 75 76 77

VIN: WAUDF78E66A021010 Mileage: 213470km-132644miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.clb
Part No SW: 8E0 910 115 M HW: 8E0 907 115 D
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0070
Revision: --H10--- Serial number:
Coding: 0104010A190F0120
Shop #: WSC 03106 444 54335
VCID: 2B000F8AFF017EBFA8B-807E

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0110 0101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09L-927-760.lbl
Part No SW: 8E1 910 156 C HW: 09L 927 156 B
Component: AG6 09L 2.0TFSI USA 0010
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: 4042243
Coding: 0000002
Shop #: WSC 06335 000 00000
VCID: 2708F3BAE3E95ADF4C3-8072

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8E0-910-517.clb
Part No SW: 8E0 910 517 E HW: 8E0 614 517 AL
Component: ESP8 quattro H04 0120
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 00000000000000
Coding: 0004528
Shop #: WSC 06335 000 00000
VCID: 290CF582F5FD6CAF5A7-807C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl
Part No: 8E0 820 043 AM
Component: A4 Klimaautomat 2831
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 6C82CC963F9FB987E11-5160

1 Fault Found:
00716 - Air recirculation Flap Positioning Motor (V113)
41-00 - Blocked or No Voltage

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 8E0-907-279-8EC.lbl
Part No: 8E0 907 279 L
Component: int. Lastmodul USA 0504
Coding: 01023
Shop #: WSC 65536
VCID: 3B203FCA0A71EE3F38B-4B1E

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 0F: Digital Radio Labels: 8E0-035-593-SIR.lbl
Part No: 8E0 035 593 D
Component: SDAR SIRIUS 0060
VCID: 2A0E0A8EF5DB67B753D-5042

1 Fault Found:
02635 - Tuner Not Enabled/Activated
35-00 - -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8E0-959-655-94.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 959 655 H HW: 8E0 959 655 H
Component: Airbag 9.41 H11 3540
Revision: 91H1135 Serial number: 0036N000LJXJ
Coding: 0032607
Shop #: WSC 06335 000 00000
VCID: 3C223CD60A6FE907311-8068

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8E0 910 339 B
Component: BF-Gewichtsens. 002 0070

Subsystem 2 - Serial number: 33E7C

Subsystem 3 - Serial number: 0001.01.000000200000000000ÿ†63

Subsystem 4 - Serial number: 000000ÿ†6332DRB401A1CF8A/ÿ†63

Subsystem 5 - Serial number: 1CF8A/ÿ†6342DRB401D610ACRÿ†63

Subsystem 6 - Serial number: 610ACRÿ†6352ARB4006B28F4Sÿ†63

Subsystem 7 - Serial number: B28F4Sÿ†6362ARB4006B36C9Uÿ†63

Subsystem 8 - Serial number: B36C9Uÿ†63729RB4007E1E71Rÿ†63

Subsystem 9 - Serial number: E1E71Rÿ†63829RB4007E1E64Uÿ

Subsystem 10 - Serial number: E1E64Uÿ

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 8E0-953-549.lbl
Part No: 8E0 953 549 Q
Component: Lenksáulenmodul 0601
Coding: 02041
Shop #: WSC 06335
VCID: 41DC4D22689D84EF627-4B1E

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8EC.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 920 982 F HW: 8E0 920 982 F
Component: KOMBI+WFS 4 H12 0110
Revision: 0110 Serial number: 00000000000000
Coding: 0023261
Shop #: WSC 03106 444 85904
VCID: 313C1DE2DD3D146F927-5184

1 Fault Found:
01771 - Control Module for Headlight Range (J431)
004 - No Signal/Communication

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8EC.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 920 982 F HW: 8E0 920 982 F
Component: KOMBI+WFS 4 H12 0110
Revision: 0110 Serial number: 00000000000000
Coding: 0023261
Shop #: WSC 03106 444 85904
VCID: 313C1DE2DD3D146F927-5184

1 Fault Found:
01771 - Control Module for Headlight Range (J431)
004 - No Signal/Communication

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 36: Seat Mem. Drvr Labels: 8E0-959-760.lbl
Part No: 8E0 959 760
Component: Sitzmemory R2 F 0305
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 71BCDDE2188D546FD27-4B3C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 8E0-959-433-MAX.clb
Part No: 8E0 959 433 BT
Component: Komfortgerát T7B 3332
Coding: 11836
Shop #: WSC 06335
VCID: 04528436370F51C7091-4B1E

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8E1959801G
Component: Tõrsteuer.FS BRM 0406

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 8E1959802E
Component: Tõrsteuer.BF BRM 0205

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 8E0959801A
Component: Tõrsteuer.HL BRM 0205

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 8E0959802A
Component: Tõrsteuer.HR BRM 0205

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 8E0-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 8E0 035 195 H
Component: symphony II PM6 0460
Coding: 01005
Shop #: WSC 03072
VCID: 2C020C96FF2F7987A11-5042

No fault code found.

End----------(Elapsed Time: 06:56, VBatt start/end: 11.4V/11.4V)-----------


Why is my new fuel pump working at 11%? shouldnt it be around 50%?
Also why is my fuel pressure regulation number way low? shouldnt it be 250-500?

[Okedokey]

I cannot remember if you've already done this but have you checked the cam follower?

[80sGuy]

I cannot remember if you've already done this but have you checked the cam follower?

I think he did according to posts #13-#14

[blakefife]

i did already, it looked like it had minimal wear and tear on it. does anyone know about the numbers im referring to in vagcom?

[Okedokey]

What did the cam look like?

I would double check your work. You've done a lot now and it is worth going back over electrical connectors, fuses etc. Playing parts-darts is a bit hard to track. Check voltages at starter, check earths etc.

[blakefife]

What did the cam look like?

I would double check your work. You've done a lot now and it is worth going back over electrical connectors, fuses etc. Playing parts-darts is a bit hard to track. Check voltages at starter, check earths etc.

Triple checking is another idea but theres still questions unanswered.

picture of cam:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...0UxLTE3TTFKcU0

lol, i keep asking: A. how to recalibrate the new lpfp to my car with vcds but my engine wont run. any ideas on that?
B. why "Fuel pressure regulation" numbers are so low on vcds
C. why lpfp duty cycle is now at 11% with new vdo lpfp installed.

can anyone answer these questions? thanks

[Okedokey]

A - you cannot
B - dont know
C - dont know.

You need to go back to basics.

[Okedokey]

Ok, some more thoughts. Can you hear the fuel pump prime when the door opens?

You need to get yourself a wiring diagram and follow something similar to what this guy has done. http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22583.phtml

Unfortunately I don't have Elsawin running right now so I cannot help much further, but getting the wiring diagram and making sure the correct connections and voltages are present will be the first step.

[blakefife]

Ok, some more thoughts. Can you hear the fuel pump prime when the door opens?

You need to get yourself a wiring diagram and follow something similar to what this guy has done. http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22583.phtml

Unfortunately I don't have Elsawin running right now so I cannot help much further, but getting the wiring diagram and making sure the correct connections and voltages are present will be the first step.

yes I hear the pump priming when I open my door AND when i turn the key to the 1 position, thats why this is very weird...

Today, I took out the fuel pressure relief valve today though, and dropped the hpfp banjo bolt and I cant find it :(

I was thinking maybe the little spring failed inside the fpr valve causing it to stick open which would bleed off fuel at all times creating a fuel loop?

After replacing this, then ill be out of ideas.

[B7S3wannabi]

Pull the plugs. Are they wet? Dry?

[blakefife]

Pull the plugs. Are they wet? Dry?

pulled cylinder 1 plug and it was wet with fuel and had a black on it, nothing out of the ordinary. put back in.

replaced the fuel pressure relief valve. started car, wanted to go, going going going starting starting, FIRES UP!


THE FIX FOR ME: FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE part NO. 06D130757C from ECS Tuning.

As soon as i replaced this part, the car needed a few cranks to start. im guessing priming?

UPDATE:

Car is idling funny even after i found that i didnt connect the pcv hose correctly. so i got it locked on now and it idles funny and burps when decelerating.
going to run vagcom now.... im curious whats going on....

[B7S3wannabi]

Glad you sorted it out and thanks for following up

[blakefife]

Glad you sorted it out and thanks for following up

ah not quite... went to go start her this morning and she misfires like crazy trying to start up... it was humid last night but no rain... maybe 75F this morning.

also, my ambient air temp sensor is reads 10 degrees higher than actual... i noticed this the other day.

going to run vagcom now. ignition coils are junk??? the spark plugs are just a little wet and kinda blackish... again i dont see anything out of the ordinary...

why else do these engines misfire???

kinda stumped here.

[blakefife]

Vag com scan tonight:

4 Faults Found:

001287 - Idle Control System RPM
P0507 - 001 - Higher than Expected. - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 213474 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 904 /min
Load: 32.9 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 101.0°C
Temperature: 102.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.954 V

000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 002 - Control Range Not Reached - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 213478 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3516 /min
Load: 94.9 %
Speed: 48.0 km/h
Temperature: 90.0°C
Temperature: 41.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.827 V

000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 213479 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1187 /min
Load: 54.9 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 32.0°C
Temperature: 36.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.335 V

000769 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 001 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 213479 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1246 /min
Load: 49.4 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 32.0°C
Temperature: 35.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.462 V


Readiness: 0010 0100
---------------------------------------

I fixed the misfires by replacing ignition coil 1 for the 4th time and changing all spark plugs with new Denso's
Misfires slightly on startup then fades away now after 2-3 seconds.

Here is the error that i think is causing all of this and I have yet to see this one pop up....

Mode 07: Pending emission related fault codes

Address 7E8: 2 Faults Found:
P0003 - SAE - Fuel Volume Regulator Circuit: Low <<<< Whats this??
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

Address 7E9: No fault code found.


electrical fuel issue?? okay.....

what the car does now is drives around fine but when i stop at rest for more than 10 seconds or so and then try to take off, i put the accelerator down a little and the car hesitates to go and the rpms actually dip down so i take my foot off and ease into the accel and then the car goes and i can punch it and it will really zoom like it feels good... just taking off after being at standstill it hesitates???

low voltage on fuel regulator circuit???

[B7S3wannabi]

I can't remember and don't want to read through it all again. Did you replace the PCV valve?

[blakefife]

I can't remember and don't want to read through it all again. Did you replace the PCV valve?

I did. I do hear a whooshing sucking noise from that pcv hose

Im starting to think i have a short in my wiring to my hpfp. i keep reading stories on google if i search p0003 about guys driving ford trucks with hpfps and they are failing or wiring is shorting causing this same error code and exact same symptoms.... i will investigate.

[B7S3wannabi]

Or it could be within the lpfp controller.

[blakefife]

So after my car been sitting for a while, I decided to tear her open and see what was going on.

I made a YouTube video of what I saw: https://youtu.be/LO6gK13kvlo

[Theiceman]

I can see that you could think the timing off is causing that code but i just dont see it. Hopefully you find another smoking gun.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[StatusQuo]

Hey I just want you guys to know something I found. If your tune is requesting fuel pressure above your PRV limit, it can cause this code. It can also be a sign if a failing PRV.

I had the code until I dialed back my requested pressure.

But that's just in my case. Might not be for everyone. I was getting the p310b.


But usually, it's the lpfp or lpfp controller that causes this.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Audizine mobile app

[blakefife]

I can see that you could think the timing off is causing that code but i just dont see it. Hopefully you find another smoking gun.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Lol uhm dawg, if this isnt a smoking gun, then idk what is...

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fB...TwxQGoteyqHnzd
https://drive.google.com/open?id=119...1CR755rIhMw4ol

Thats one tooth off my friend. Do you see it now?

the whole teardown: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CP...iITpadnBXjW_Vt


when you start loosing coolant and its not puddling under your car... uh oh. glad i parker her before it could have gotten any worse. thank god just have to scrub the parts down and degrease some things.

stay tuned.

[blakefife]

Hey I just want you guys to know something I found. If your tune is requesting fuel pressure above your PRV limit, it can cause this code. It can also be a sign if a failing PRV.

I had the code until I dialed back my requested pressure.

But that's just in my case. Might not be for everyone. I was getting the p310b.


But usually, it's the lpfp or lpfp controller that causes this.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Audizine mobile app

I replaced my valve and it didnt change a thing. tune issue maybe? doubt it though... car seems totally stock.

[Theiceman]

Maybe i missed something then because i have seen a few cars one tooth off and they have some performance issues yes. I have never seen a fuel pressure regulator code associated with it.
The losing coolant i don’t remember you mentioning. It does look like you have a few issues with the car for sure.
Hopefully you don’t have any bent valves and it’s just a matter of gaskets and bolts and you can start putting her together properly.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Theiceman]

Okay I actually took the time to read the whole thread over again ... it makes a little more sense now. I imagine you fixed your original p0089 code ( that is what threw me off ) you maybe should have started a new thread . You now have massive misfire, this of course could be due to timing or more likely lack of compression due to head bolts backing off ( remember the timing is the same as what it was when you first bought the car and it ran okay. )

I think you might be in good shape once you are done, obviously an oil change is in order with that coolant down there.

The good news is when you get the timing spot on its gonna feel like a brand new car :)

In one of your pics it looks like wreckers paint on the head , they use it when selling used parts , I could barely see it. If so obviously a major repair has taken place hear ( albeit poorly )

[vvenom800tt]

Im interested in this thread as i got major fuel cuts and a p0089 on friday.

Code said fuel pressure regulator. Im gonna swap over a spare n276 valve i have and change the fuel filter and cam follower. My n276 valve has a crack in the top of it so im thinking it damaged internally.

Alread took the hpfp off and the follower is in good shape so thats not the culprit.

Ill report back here with updates tomorrow once parts come in.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Audizine mobile app

[Theiceman]

Im interested in this thread as i got major fuel cuts and a p0089 on friday.

Code said fuel pressure regulator. Im gonna swap over a spare n276 valve i have and change the fuel filter and cam follower. My n276 valve has a crack in the top of it so im thinking it damaged internally.

Alread took the hpfp off and the follower is in good shape so thats not the culprit.

Ill report back here with updates tomorrow once parts come in.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Audizine mobile app

go back and read entire thread , I think he fixed it about a page or so back with some type of regulator valve. these misfires now I think are due to other issues with the car.

[blakefife]

Im interested in this thread as i got major fuel cuts and a p0089 on friday.

Code said fuel pressure regulator. Im gonna swap over a spare n276 valve i have and change the fuel filter and cam follower. My n276 valve has a crack in the top of it so im thinking it damaged internally.

Alread took the hpfp off and the follower is in good shape so thats not the culprit.

Ill report back here with updates tomorrow once parts come in.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Audizine mobile app

oh no p0089. ugh so dreaded man, it took me a year to figure this car out. i did all the small stuff under the hood first, and listed it earlier in this thread. Least expensive to most expensive. and here i am at most expensive doing a head overhaul lol.

Ugh, i love this car too much to see her sitting parked.

but i digress.

So...

I ended up taking off the camshaft adjuster off the back of the head and the three plastic rings that sit on the cam adjuster solenoid thing that slides into the adjustable cam pulley, well one of them was broken in half and it was rolling around in there freely. The other two plastic rings were intact. my cam chain timing tensioner looks like the guides are decent shape, but I will replace anyways.

Im looking at this right now too: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-engines/page2

I guess Audi updated the cam adjuster seals to metal rings but I dont think they will fit my camshaft adjuster housing and the new updated housing is like $300-$500 bucks on ebay. I think im gonna buy the plastic ones again and call it a day. but who knows how long it takes before they become brittle again and crack. dumb design... oil sealing rings that are floating on a spinning surface made of plastic... come on.

But all this explains why my car sounded like rattling marbles at idle.

As i dig deeper into this engine, i am seeing all sorts of hints.

EDIT: Been looking around for the last two hours on google and ebay for the updated camshaft adjuster housing with the steel rings and I cannot find it at all....
I guess im gonna order the plastic rings from FCP Euro so if they ever break again I can just get new ones for free. I was gonna cheap out and save $18 on ebay for $38 out the door but i am willing to bet these little cheapass things will break again after 80k miles or less.

plastic.... morons.

[Gysty]

I might have one laying on my garage from my last engine repair, will check at lunch time and send pics to you.

[Theiceman]

oh no p0089. ugh so dreaded man, it took me a year to figure this car out. i did all the small stuff under the hood first, and listed it earlier in this thread. Least expensive to most expensive. and here i am at most expensive doing a head overhaul lol.

Ugh, i love this car too much to see her sitting parked.

but i digress.

So...

I ended up taking off the camshaft adjuster off the back of the head and the three plastic rings that sit on the cam adjuster solenoid thing that slides into the adjustable cam pulley, well one of them was broken in half and it was rolling around in there freely. The other two plastic rings were intact. my cam chain timing tensioner looks like the guides are decent shape, but I will replace anyways.

Im looking at this right now too: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-engines/page2

I guess Audi updated the cam adjuster seals to metal rings but I dont think they will fit my camshaft adjuster housing and the new updated housing is like $300-$500 bucks on ebay. I think im gonna buy the plastic ones again and call it a day. but who knows how long it takes before they become brittle again and crack. dumb design... oil sealing rings that are floating on a spinning surface made of plastic... come on.

But all this explains why my car sounded like rattling marbles at idle.

As i dig deeper into this engine, i am seeing all sorts of hints.

EDIT: Been looking around for the last two hours on google and ebay for the updated camshaft adjuster housing with the steel rings and I cannot find it at all....
I guess im gonna order the plastic rings from FCP Euro so if they ever break again I can just get new ones for free. I was gonna cheap out and save $18 on ebay for $38 out the door but i am willing to bet these little cheapass things will break again after 80k miles or less.

plastic.... morons.

you have it backwards.

revision a were metal rings. but the problem was they wore grooves into the cam adjuster and eventually oil would leak by them . The inside of the cam adjuster should be perfectly smooth. Audi changed them to a heat resistant polycarbonate material that would not wear groves in the cam adjuster. thats why you cant buy the metal old rings. They do get brittle with time but they are not designed not to be taken on and off. If the broken one is not the first one then you are likely to break the others trying to get by them or move them. i had very slight grooving in my cam adjuster so i reused it but liberally coated the rings with assembly lube and very carefully put the cover back on.
The marble sound is not this , but likely your chain and tensioner so great move replacing these.
Also remember the cam adjuster bolt is torque to yield and will need to be replaced. " that's all she wrote thread" some great info in there as well as a source for those rings.

[vvenom800tt]

oh no p0089. ugh so dreaded man, it took me a year to figure this car out. i did all the small stuff under the hood first, and listed it earlier in this thread. Least expensive to most expensive. and here i am at most expensive doing a head overhaul lol.

Ugh, i love this car too much to see her sitting parked.

but i digress.

So...

I ended up taking off the camshaft adjuster off the back of the head and the three plastic rings that sit on the cam adjuster solenoid thing that slides into the adjustable cam pulley, well one of them was broken in half and it was rolling around in there freely. The other two plastic rings were intact. my cam chain timing tensioner looks like the guides are decent shape, but I will replace anyways.

Im looking at this right now too: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-engines/page2

I guess Audi updated the cam adjuster seals to metal rings but I dont think they will fit my camshaft adjuster housing and the new updated housing is like $300-$500 bucks on ebay. I think im gonna buy the plastic ones again and call it a day. but who knows how long it takes before they become brittle again and crack. dumb design... oil sealing rings that are floating on a spinning surface made of plastic... come on.

But all this explains why my car sounded like rattling marbles at idle.

As i dig deeper into this engine, i am seeing all sorts of hints.

EDIT: Been looking around for the last two hours on google and ebay for the updated camshaft adjuster housing with the steel rings and I cannot find it at all....
I guess im gonna order the plastic rings from FCP Euro so if they ever break again I can just get new ones for free. I was gonna cheap out and save $18 on ebay for $38 out the door but i am willing to bet these little cheapass things will break again after 80k miles or less.

plastic.... morons.

So i moved my spare n276 over and replaced the cam follower. the CEL went away on first start up. Let her sit and warm up and then drive around neighborhood in circles like a granny getting her up to temp.

Flog on it in second and bam! Fuel cut. Fuck me. Try again, bam! Fuel cut.

I got my fuel filter in when i got back home from the ups guy and the g410 sensor should be here today.

If that doesnt fix it thwn ill get a new prv to see if that's the culprit. Migh even get an hpfp upgraded 135 bar one while im at it.

Gonna install those and report back.

I replaced my chain and tensioner in the back of the head a couple of years ago. But i didnt know about the rings.

Gonna buy some plastic ones and replaces once the weather warms up.

Ill keep this updated.

[vvenom800tt]

Replaced the g410 and the fuel filter today.

The cell is no more (i cleared it) buy it didnt come back so that's good.

The bad is that i still get fuel cuts when i stomp on it right around 3k rpm.

I need to log with vcds and see what my duty cycle is for the low pressure fuel pump.

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