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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    CVT Transmission fluid change

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    I own a 2007 Audi A4 2.0T FWD. It has the CVT transmission. Need to change the transmission fluid.

    I can drain and fill oil while taking care of temperature, but what about the filter? I did not find any DIY in which filter is replaced by removing the pan.

    Should I just change the oil? Please help me.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Ok my comments having done this multiple times.

    1. Only use OEM fluid - G052180A2 (you'll need 6 - 7L)
    2. The internal filter can only be removed by dropping the transmission out (there is no pan)
    3. The external filter can be changed easily and it is worthwhile - 8E0317823L
    4. Ensure you have the right drain plug socket and make sure you can loosen the fill socket prior to draining the fluid
    5. Replace the fill plug and drain plug.
    6. Ensure you use the correct procedure to make sure it is full at the right temperature.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings 80sGuy's Avatar
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    Is this a tough job to do on your own? I'm starting to really hate the dealers and questioned the people they hired as 'techs', no better than the same guys that works at Jiffy Lube or Subway sandwich.

    2008 A4 2.0T | Dolphin Gray Metallic/Dk Gray | multitronic | Bluetooth | Dk Wood | Convenience. | Premium. | Sprt Susp. | Bare-bone 100% factory stock!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Ok to do a proper CVT transmission fluid change you have to sell the car with the CVT trans in it and buy at the very least a Tiptronic! 😂😂😂
    Jk
    I can't help you here, but I'm sure this has been asked before somewhere.:. I've got feeling.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Its very easy.


    1. Drive the car to operating temperature.
    2. Get it up level on four jack stands with enough space to get under the car safely.
    3. Crack the fill plug first (yellow arrow) and make sure you can remove it. replace it finger tight.
    4. Remove the drain plug (red) and drain all the fluid.
    5. Replace with new drain plug and torque to correct settings.

      If replacing the inline filter, do that now. Pretty self explanatory, two hose couplings and some fasteners.

      (if you're not replacing the filter)
    6. Pump in fluid (OEM only) using a quart hand pump. You'll need to stick the tube high up as possible into the fill hole.
    7. Once it starts to run out again, replace the fill plug (old one) finger tight.
    8. Whilst up on the jack stands with all four wheels off the ground, start the car.
    9. Apply brake and cycle through the gear selections slowly and methodically.
    10. You will need to ensure you have at VCDS to monitor the temps. Once it gets to around 42oC (transmission) turn off.
    11. remove fill plug.
    12. If fluid comes out, you're full. If not add more fluid until it overflows and repeat the 3 previous steps until you have at temperature, and overflow. This is considered full.
    13. Replace fill plug (new) and torque to spec.




    Now adapt the Transmission Control Module (TCM):
    1. Confirm that the ATF is at a minimum 65ºC.
    2. With the ATF at a minimum 65ºC, carefully operate the vehicle in an open space (clear of traffic and obstacles).
    3. Shift vehicle into D.
    4. Drive forward at part load approximately 10 meters (33 feet), then apply brake pedal to a stop and continue to apply brake pedal for approximately 10 seconds.
    5. Shift vehicle into R.
    6. Release brake pedal.
    7. Drive backwards at part load approximately 10 meters (33 feet), then apply brake pedal to a stop and continue to apply brake pedal for approximately 10 seconds.
    8. Repeat steps 1- 7 (alternating between D and R) five times.
    9. Completed adaptions can be viewed in MVB 10 and 11, position 2 with VCDS
    Last edited by Okedokey; 06-08-2017 at 09:04 PM.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings 80sGuy's Avatar
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    ^^Cool, thanks! Not that I'll be doing it that any time soon but will use it when the time comes. I truly doubt that any Audi tech would take the time and go through all the steps outlined, they probably don't even care and don't know how. I remembered bringing my transmission in for service a few years ago, and within a couple of hours my car was ready. From what I understand (now, wish I knew then), you can't just start servicing the CVT right away. I was told the car must be left overnight or until it completely cools down and start the process. Needless to say 9,000 miles later I needed a new CVT replaced. So yeah I believed the dealer truly fucked up my car. Luckily the warranty paid for it and $0 out of my pocket.

    2008 A4 2.0T | Dolphin Gray Metallic/Dk Gray | multitronic | Bluetooth | Dk Wood | Convenience. | Premium. | Sprt Susp. | Bare-bone 100% factory stock!

  7. #7
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post
    Its very easy.


    1. Drive the car to operating temperature.
    2. Get it up level on four jack stands with enough space to get under the car safely.
    3. Crack the fill plug first (yellow arrow) and make sure you can remove it. replace it finger tight.
    4. Remove the drain plug (red) and drain all the fluid.
    5. Replace with new drain plug and torque to correct settings.

      If replacing the inline filter, do that now. Pretty self explanatory, two hose couplings and some fasteners.

      (if you're not replacing the filter)
    6. Pump in fluid (OEM only) using a quart hand pump. You'll need to stick the tube high up as possible into the fill hole.
    7. Once it starts to run out again, replace the fill plug (old one) finger tight.
    8. Whilst up on the jack stands with all four wheels off the ground, start the car.
    9. Apply brake and cycle through the gear selections slowly and methodically.
    10. You will need to ensure you have at VCDS to monitor the temps. Once it gets to around 42oC (transmission) turn off.
    11. remove fill plug.
    12. If fluid comes out, you're full. If not add more fluid until it overflows and repeat the 3 previous steps until you have at temperature, and overflow. This is considered full.
    13. Replace fill plug (new) and torque to spec.




    Now adapt the Transmission Control Module (TCM):
    1. Confirm that the ATF is at a minimum 65ºC.
    2. With the ATF at a minimum 65ºC, carefully operate the vehicle in an open space (clear of traffic and obstacles).
    3. Shift vehicle into D.
    4. Drive forward at part load approximately 10 meters (33 feet), then apply brake pedal to a stop and continue to apply brake pedal for approximately 10 seconds.
    5. Shift vehicle into R.
    6. Release brake pedal.
    7. Drive backwards at part load approximately 10 meters (33 feet), then apply brake pedal to a stop and continue to apply brake pedal for approximately 10 seconds.
    8. Repeat steps 1- 7 (alternating between D and R) five times.
    9. Completed adaptions can be viewed in MVB 10 and 11, position 2 with VCDS
    Thanks for the writeup! I will be changing the fluid only. Dont want to touch filters this time. Hopefully everything will be alright.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by GearHead7 View Post
    Ok to do a proper CVT transmission fluid change you have to sell the car with the CVT trans in it and buy at the very least a Tiptronic! 😂😂😂
    Jk
    I can't help you here, but I'm sure this has been asked before somewhere.:. I've got feeling.
    LoL

    Quote Originally Posted by 80sGuy View Post
    Is this a tough job to do on your own? I'm starting to really hate the dealers and questioned the people they hired as 'techs', no better than the same guys that works at Jiffy Lube or Subway sandwich.
    I had contacted a repair shop(German cars) in Riverside. Was asking $300 for the fluid change. Ended up buying 7L transmission fluid from ECS. Planning to change it by myself next week.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings 80sGuy's Avatar
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    ^^The question is: do they do it right? Very hard to find knowledgeable independent shops, even dealers for that matter.

    Quote Originally Posted by GearHead7 View Post
    Ok to do a proper CVT transmission fluid change you have to sell the car with the CVT trans in it and buy at the very least a Tiptronic! 😂😂😂
    Jk
    I can't help you here, but I'm sure this has been asked before somewhere.:. I've got feeling.
    I actually love the CVT. If taken care of it can be a pretty good transmission. Only drawback is that it can be a bit fragile but I'm not worried since I'm not mod nor a crazy driver.

    2008 A4 2.0T | Dolphin Gray Metallic/Dk Gray | multitronic | Bluetooth | Dk Wood | Convenience. | Premium. | Sprt Susp. | Bare-bone 100% factory stock!

  10. #10
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    -
    I personally have no knowledge of the CVT... at all. So I'm def ore judging and jumping to conclusions here based on what I've read other four mm members suggesting. That's not always true to matter though.. actually it rarely is.
    But- also personally I've had the Tipronic and Manual and if I ever update my model again, I would def go with the tiptronic, I have nothing but awesome things to say about that transmission, I've been really highly talking it lately, because again, I read a ton of fourmn members saying "if it's not manual it's not a transmission" type of suggesting- and I have found that the tip is a very very great trans.
    Anyways, GL OP.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings 80sGuy's Avatar
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    Believe me if you live in L.A., manual transmission is hell! Just a note: all Audi transmissions seemed to have its own issues, yes all of them, whether it be tip, dsg, or cvt.

    2008 A4 2.0T | Dolphin Gray Metallic/Dk Gray | multitronic | Bluetooth | Dk Wood | Convenience. | Premium. | Sprt Susp. | Bare-bone 100% factory stock!

  12. #12
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Changed the ATF fluid yesterday. Harbor Freight transfer tool works fine with some electrical tape for sealing the out-tube to the fill hole. Used obdeleven to track the temperature.

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings 80sGuy's Avatar
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    ^^That's great. How hard was it (to you) and did you follow all standard procedures with vagcom during the process? How's it drive so far?

    2008 A4 2.0T | Dolphin Gray Metallic/Dk Gray | multitronic | Bluetooth | Dk Wood | Convenience. | Premium. | Sprt Susp. | Bare-bone 100% factory stock!

  14. #14
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by 80sGuy View Post
    ^^That's great. How hard was it (to you) and did you follow all standard procedures with vagcom during the process? How's it drive so far?
    Not that hard. I followed standard process. I jacked up at a level surface. Used obdeleven for temp monitoring. I also have a infrared thermometer which i compared with obdeleven transmission temp. Was surprised that it was pretty accurate (+-0.5).

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DM...rmometer&psc=1

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings jpjmustang's Avatar
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    I believe the 2007 and the 2006 are the same procedure?

    I have the 2006 2.0T CVT FWD

    Where do you get your fluids and filters?

    JPJM
    [B]JPJMustang[/B]

    2014 Audi Q7 TDI 3.0 Prem +
    2012 Audi A6 3.0T Prem +
    2011 BMW 328i
    2004 BMW X3

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpjmustang View Post
    I believe the 2007 and the 2006 are the same procedure?

    I have the 2006 2.0T CVT FWD

    Where do you get your fluids and filters?

    JPJM
    Replace with Audi fluid, don't cheap out. You can get Febi but I recommend Audi/VW. Should buy six or seven bottles, they aren't cheap. The external in-line filter is a complete aluminum hose. Not cheap either, that is the one you want to change unless you get good flow with an air gun. The internal "screen" isn't going to be accessible unless you crack the entire transmission case open.

    If you have vagcom I suggest you do it properly and finish with the adaptation after the proper fluid check.
    HEAR
    APR stage 2

  17. #17
    Established Member Two Rings jpjmustang's Avatar
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    Thanks - working on a dead 2003 A6

    From the write up VAG reads the proper temp to take it to and the refill

    Is that correct?

    JPJM
    [B]JPJMustang[/B]

    2014 Audi Q7 TDI 3.0 Prem +
    2012 Audi A6 3.0T Prem +
    2011 BMW 328i
    2004 BMW X3

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings 80sGuy's Avatar
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    That is correct! Many steps to be taken and a timely process which MUST be followed through as most techs probably wouldn't even do or should I say "know how".

    2008 A4 2.0T | Dolphin Gray Metallic/Dk Gray | multitronic | Bluetooth | Dk Wood | Convenience. | Premium. | Sprt Susp. | Bare-bone 100% factory stock!

  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings jpjmustang's Avatar
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    All -

    Thanks for the input

    I dont know what we did in the old days without forums

    JPJM
    [B]JPJMustang[/B]

    2014 Audi Q7 TDI 3.0 Prem +
    2012 Audi A6 3.0T Prem +
    2011 BMW 328i
    2004 BMW X3

  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Removing drain plug

    in response to Okedokey's to do instructions, what kind of bolt is the drain plug. It looks like I can use a triple square to remove it, however, there is an obstruction in the middle of the bolt?

    Thanks

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by forger View Post
    in response to Okedokey's to do instructions, what kind of bolt is the drain plug. It looks like I can use a triple square to remove it, however, there is an obstruction in the middle of the bolt?

    Thanks
    you can buy them on ebay. Just need the part number. They're hollowed out.

    here's a link for the procedure. Should use vagcom or an equivalent to do the readings and the adaptation.
    https://www.audizine.com/forum/editp...90&do=editpost
    https://www.europeantransmissions.co...talliation.htm
    HEAR
    APR stage 2

  22. #22
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by flowhigh View Post
    you can buy them on ebay. Just need the part number. They're hollowed out.

    here's a link for the procedure. Should use vagcom or an equivalent to do the readings and the adaptation.
    https://www.audizine.com/forum/editp...90&do=editpost
    https://www.europeantransmissions.co...talliation.htm
    Just ordered the socket on Amazon. Hoping my CVT has no internal damage when it went into limp mode. I currently hear whirring noises when I put it in reverse. Will see if changing fluid resolves issue with the noise and the PO730 Gear Ratio Incorrect

  23. #23
    Active Member One Ring
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    What's the secret to pumping fluid back into the transmission?

    I have a hand pump and every time I pump fluid, it runs back down my tube.

  24. #24
    Active Member Four Rings EvolutionArmory's Avatar
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    I always filled transmissions by gravity feed. If the fill bottle is higher than the transmission, gravity will do the work for you much like how a water tower works.

    I always filled them 1 quart at a time and checked to see if fluid started pouring out. When it does, I’d start the car, work all the gears and keep adding 1 quart at a time until fluid started coming out with it running. All within the proper operating temp of course.
    2016 S4 premium plus, Glacier White Metallic, black optics, carbon trim, magma interior. APR dual pulley Ultracharger and TCU, APR intake, Merc HX, CWA100, APR A01 wheels, ECS rotors, Michelin PS4S, 034 trans mount, AEM 400cc’s meth

    APR tune [email protected]

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  25. #25
    Active Member One Ring
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    I finally figured it out (created tight seal around my fill tube using electrical tape).

    I wasted about half a liter watching the fluid drip back out as I pumped from below. Pump, drip, pump, drip, etc. It wasn't until I used electrical tape to seal things off that I managed to keep the fluid in there as I pumped.

    It might be psychological, but the car does seem to run smoother with 5 fresh liters of transmission fluid.

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Three Rings spyder101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 80sGuy View Post
    That is correct! Many steps to be taken and a timely process which MUST be followed through as most techs probably wouldn't even do or should I say "know how".
    That’s a bold statement, coming from someone who probably doesn’t know shit for cars and thus proves it by driving a CVT.

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings 80sGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyder101 View Post
    That’s a bold statement, coming from someone who probably doesn’t know shit for cars and thus proves it by driving a CVT.
    In addition to owning two other Quattros (no longer new of course).....





    ...not everyone who owns a non-Quattro or CVT isn't mechanically-inclined. There are MANY well-respected CVT owners in here that are highly modified with a ton of miles. Sorry if I struck a nerve or offended you in any way. If I didn't know shyte about cars, my multitronic () wouldn't be around to this day. I registered this forum in 2007, you're in 2009. You should know that shyte by now.

    2008 A4 2.0T | Dolphin Gray Metallic/Dk Gray | multitronic | Bluetooth | Dk Wood | Convenience. | Premium. | Sprt Susp. | Bare-bone 100% factory stock!

  28. #28
    Active Member One Ring
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    Hello there
    Not sure you are still around since i see that this is an old post!
    I am trying to get the part code from stealership but they will not give it to me.
    I have an AUDI A6 C6 (4F2) model... the 2.4 FWD car. Does the above mentioned oil (G052180A2) work for my gearbox?
    The price for the Audi oil is ridiculous... if I use the Febi Bilstein (27975) oil, do you reckon it would cause a problem? Have you had any experience with using a non OEM oil?
    I heard multiple sources claiming that they used an alternative oil (both cases used the Penrite CVT oil) and both said they had to replace it because transmission was slipping.

    Thank you in advance

  29. #29
    Registered Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by mihaliseb View Post
    Hello there
    Not sure you are still around since i see that this is an old post!
    I am trying to get the part code from stealership but they will not give it to me.
    I have an AUDI A6 C6 (4F2) model... the 2.4 FWD car. Does the above mentioned oil (G052180A2) work for my gearbox?
    The price for the Audi oil is ridiculous... if I use the Febi Bilstein (27975) oil, do you reckon it would cause a problem? Have you had any experience with using a non OEM oil?
    I heard multiple sources claiming that they used an alternative oil (both cases used the Penrite CVT oil) and both said they had to replace it because transmission was slipping.

    Thank you in advance

    Hey! did you use the Febi? I'm about to do a trans fluid change and I got that product.
    Febi 27975

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