CECM Recoding help...

[EuroPersuasion]

Hi everyone hope all is well, at least better than how I'm doing. Anyways I'm asking to seek help to recoding a used CECM. My car 2002 Audi A4 1.8T APR Stage 1+

Story: On Friday I come out and I see that only my passenger signal light and passenger tail light is on, (car is off and parked). My key button to unlock the car did not work so I manually keyed in. I enter the car and could smell something had burned. After checking all the fuses everything seemed fine, even the relays. After more digging around I inspect around under the steering column and find a strong odor from the CECM. So I removed it and opened it up and you can see for yourself the damage. I am just hoping this is the only thing that went out. I checked the driver signal pocket and one of the 3 pins were burned out. I did this because I had installed aftermarket signals that were causing hyper flash and sometimes no flash when I signaled. I was actually going to remove them that day. (Unlucky..)

I am waiting on the CECM to arrive and I read everywhere that I will need to recode it. I have the wire and software to do so, but need help on how to do it. I read a few threads on here which led me to this site, http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...ED)#Adaptation, to do the following :

"Channel 081: Component Protection
To start the process of Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) learning, enter/save 46992 as new value."

Can anyone explain how I can code my new (used) CECM to my car. I ordered one that is the same part number, nearly everything is identical except the month and day of the board (same year 2002). This is the part number 8E0 907 279 E

Any help would be immensely appreciated. A video or a series of images would be great! Thank you and I hope to hear back soon. Your knowledge and input contributes to all.

[seanf86]

you can use E or F suffix part number. The link you posted is for a B7, here is the B6 one, its pretty simple, go into adaptation like you posted and go to channel 81 and let it relearn your cars vin, then calculate the coding based on the link below, hit recode, punch in your #s and press Do it!

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...nics_(8E2/8E5)

The "light sensor" I believe was for cars with auto headlights which a 2002 will not have, if you're having trouble post up if you've got xenons or halogens and I can double check the coding of my car, I have 2 2002s, 1 with halogens and 1 with xenons

[EuroPersuasion]

Hey Sean, thanks for getting back to me.

I have Halogens stock but installed an HID kit so I'm sure the coding is still for Halogens. I ordered the E suffix just so its the same as the one I had in my car. When you say punch in your #'s what do you mean? At the moment when I try to get into central electric in the software, it says there is no communication. This I assume is because the board is fried. I have have an aftermarket radio, would this cause issues to connect to the module?


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[EuroPersuasion]

Also, the link you sent me only says this

"There is currently no text in this page. You can search for this page title in other pages, or search the related logs, but you do not have permission to create this page."


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[EuroPersuasion]

I searched seans link, and came across this instead, but there is no information given for adaptation. Any suggestions?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...onics_(8E2/8E5)






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[seanf86]

Hey Sean, thanks for getting back to me.

I have Halogens stock but installed an HID kit so I'm sure the coding is still for Halogens. I ordered the E suffix just so its the same as the one I had in my car. When you say punch in your #'s what do you mean? At the moment when I try to get into central electric in the software, it says there is no communication. This I assume is because the board is fried. I have have an aftermarket radio, would this cause issues to connect to the module?


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edited my link and fixed it when I say punch in your #s you hit recode and enter the coding value you calculated from the link. As for the halogens if your car came with halogens enter the coding for halogens, I'm not all sure what it looks for when the car is coded for xenons, probably the range control module which would confuse the car since yours wouldn't have it.

[EuroPersuasion]

edited my link and fixed it when I say punch in your #s you hit recode and enter the coding value you calculated from the link. As for the halogens if your car came with halogens enter the coding for halogens, I'm not all sure what it looks for when the car is coded for xenons, probably the range control module which would confuse the car since yours wouldn't have it.

What I mean is that there is no numbers for adaptation on that link, so I dont dont what I'm calculating. My car has halogen, so do you think you could post your coding values? We both have a 02 so it should be the same.


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[5ktq]

its right there

0?xxx: Light Sensor
0 = Light Sensor not installed
1 = Light Sensor installed
0x?xx: Trailer Hitch
0 = Trailer Hitch not installed
1 = Trailer Hitch installed
0xx?x: Headlights
0 = Halogen Headlights
1 = Xenon Headlights
0xxx?: Country
1 = Rest of World
2 = Northern Countries (Finland, Sweden, Norway, Denmark)
3 = USA
4 = Canada

00003 for USA with no trailer, no light sensor, halogen, for example
01003 if otherwise the same but with light sensor

[EuroPersuasion]

Does the CECM also control the windows and horns? Because those are also not working in my car. Or is it controlled by another module.


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[5ktq]

I think it does the horn, but the windows / doors go though the convenience module.

[EuroPersuasion]

I think it does the horn, but the windows / doors go though the convenience module.

Ugh.... I would have to inspect that as well then. Thats located under the driver seat if I'm no mistaken. Its odd because my cluster and door lights and interior lights work though.


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[5ktq]

better do a scan first, maybe see if you get any alarms. I think the Conv module talks to the door modules over (komfort) CAN bus, maybe the bus got mangled somehow (short in the door wiring or something.. whoknows)

[EuroPersuasion]

When ever I try to connect to the CECM, I get an error (is it because I removed it from the car because its fried anyways?) and Cant connect to the CCM (maybe it needs to detect the CECM first?)

This is the first time I'm dealing with electrical issues. Is it possible the CCM module fried? everything else seems to work like door lights and interior/cluster light. The key is also still being recognized.

Tomorrow I will hopefully be getting the CECM and will install it to see if there are any changes.


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[5ktq]

Yeah you won't be able to talk to the CECM if it's not there. Not sure how the CCM is powered, I guess if it's through the CECM then it might not respond either. I'd wait for the new CECM and try again.

[EuroPersuasion]

Yeah you won't be able to talk to the CECM if it's not there. Not sure how the CCM is powered, I guess if it's through the CECM then it might not respond either. I'd wait for the new CECM and try again.

Yes, I will update once I install the new CECM. Thank you for your help so far! Now we wait for the delivery and installation. Wish me luck!

[EuroxS4]

I have a strange feeling your ccm is a submarine.Pull the drivers side carpet up and check for water.This could be the rot cause of all your issues.

[EuroPersuasion]

I have a strange feeling your ccm is a submarine.Pull the drivers side carpet up and check for water.This could be the rot cause of all your issues.

I will do that before installing the new CECM, I think the root cause was that aftermarket signal bulb. It was driving the car crazy, and my hood signal kept popping up even though the hood was closed. I WD'40'd the hood latch but it persisted to show the hood open picture on the dash. I checked the battery location and didn't notice and water build up there. If there was water the drains would be clogged but it didn't seem that way.

Do you think I should take a look at the CCM before installing the new CECM?


- Also, the carpet didnt really feel wet.

[EuroxS4]

I will do that before installing the new CECM, I think the root cause was that aftermarket signal bulb. It was driving the car crazy, and my hood signal kept popping up even though the hood was closed. I WD'40'd the hood latch but it persisted to show the hood open picture on the dash. I checked the battery location and didn't notice and water build up there. If there was water the drains would be clogged but it didn't seem that way.

Do you think I should take a look at the CCM before installing the new CECM?


- Also, the carpet didnt really feel wet.

I would check the ccm first.The carpet isn't always wet as it has a lot of foam under it that absorbs and holds most of the water.You should be able to put your hand down the side to check for water.Also Make sure the ebox on the drivers side isn't cracked or missing any bolts.Ive seen this many times.Also clogged or loose sunroof drains will cause this as well.I had one instance where a aftermarket windshield was leaking water into the vehicle.

Also I've seen cheap China bulbs socket and switches that claim to be oem cause all sorts of issues electrical gremlins.My buddy beetle needed a window switch,he put a China one in.Everytime he put the passenger side window down it would blow the fuse for the mirror adjustment.OEM is oem and china is SHIT!!!

[EuroPersuasion]

I would check the ccm first.The carpet isn't always wet as it has a lot of foam under it that absorbs and holds most of the water.You should be able to put your hand down the side to check for water.Also Make sure the ebox on the drivers side isn't cracked or missing any bolts.Ive seen this many times.Also clogged or loose sunroof drains will cause this as well.I had one instance where a aftermarket windshield was leaking water into the vehicle.

Also I've seen cheap China bulbs socket and switches that claim to be oem cause all sorts of issues electrical gremlins.My buddy beetle needed a window switch,he put a China one in.Everytime he put the passenger side window down it would blow the fuse for the mirror adjustment.OEM is oem and china is SHIT!!!

I agree, with the last statement.

I had removed the ecu to check for damage. That was the first thing I did. I couldn't get to the the last bolt of the ecu box, the one in the upper left(driver) side under the wipers and cowl. I was able to get the other 4 out (3 in front and 1 on the right side under the cowl). I ended up ripping off the plastic cover for the 5th one I couldn't remove. You think this will cause an issue (please say no). It sits far back, under the cowl so I'm hoping now. I'm not sure if there is an opening when I put the cover back on. The screw is still there, its just a small piece of plastic off the cover that I ripped.

Btw ecu looked fine, and so did all the relays in the ecu holder box.

It has just rained for weeks now in NY, its ridiculous...

[5ktq]

yeaaah you shouldn't rip that off. It's a pain in the ass to get to, but the proper way is to remove the DS wiper arm, and then you can put a 1/4 extension down the hole around the wiper shaft, and access that last screw.

[EuroPersuasion]

Wiper arm would just not come off. And I couldn't put it in the up position because the motors weren't working. *sigh*

I had to rip it captain.


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[EuroxS4]

I agree, with the last statement.

I had removed the ecu to check for damage. That was the first thing I did. I couldn't get to the the last bolt of the ecu box, the one in the upper left(driver) side under the wipers and cowl. I was able to get the other 4 out (3 in front and 1 on the right side under the cowl). I ended up ripping off the plastic cover for the 5th one I couldn't remove. You think this will cause an issue (please say no). It sits far back, under the cowl so I'm hoping now. I'm not sure if there is an opening when I put the cover back on. The screw is still there, its just a small piece of plastic off the cover that I ripped.

Btw ecu looked fine, and so did all the relays in the ecu holder box.

It has just rained for weeks now in NY, its ridiculous...

Yeah water is gonna leak through there.I would recheck it.As I mentioned before I've seen this way too often it's gonna be an issue if it isn't already.Do it right replace the cover.Dont bother gluing!!Youve been warned.

[EuroPersuasion]

Yeah water is gonna leak through there.I would recheck it.As I mentioned before I've seen this way too often it's gonna be an issue if it isn't already.Do it right replace the cover.Dont bother gluing!!Youve been warned.

Alright, I will replace once I can get the wiper motor functional again. It wasn't budging and coming out when it was horizontally (normally) rested. Any ideas on what I can do for that? I tried Wd 40 to loosen it up a bit nothing. Expense after expense. So unneeded right now..

[EuroxS4]

Alright, I will replace once I can get the wiper motor functional again. It wasn't budging and coming out when it was horizontally (normally) rested. Any ideas on what I can do for that? I tried Wd 40 to loosen it up a bit nothing. Expense after expense. So unneeded right now..

Normally I take the nut off put the hood down but not latch it.I put the arm up at the pivot point.Then I grab the arm at the bottom of the pivot point and pull/press up and down.Until the arm comes off.The shaft is tapered this is why it's on there real good.Or you can use a wiper arm puller.I never needed to.


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[EuroPersuasion]

Normally I take the nut off put the hood down but not latch it.I put the arm up at the pivot point.Then I grab the arm at the bottom of the pivot point and pull/press up and down.Until the arm comes off.The shaft is tapered this is why it's on there real good.Or you can use a wiper arm puller.I never needed to.


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I'll try again tomorrow to remove the wipe arm. Then I'll check the ecu once again, and try to seal off any opening in the ecu box with something I find until I can get my hands on a new box cover.

To put the wiper blade arm back, does it just push in?

[5ktq]

I always take the arm off with a $5 battery terminal puller. (With hood open, wiper in rested position) Barely fits but works good.

It's on a taper, so reinstalling the nut pushes it back on.

[EuroPersuasion]

I always take the arm off with a $5 battery terminal puller. (With hood open, wiper in rested position) Barely fits but works good.

It's on a taper, so reinstalling the nut pushes it back on.

Thanks for the tip, I will work on it right after work today and keep you guys updated. CECM should be arriving today as well (at least what it says on tracking)

[EuroPersuasion]

Update: CECM still not arrived but when I went home during my break, I checked the area around the battery, no water accumulation. I also checked under the driver side carpet, there was no water, but did seem moist slightly. I couldn't see any signs of water under there, the box/cables were dry. The carpet itself was moist, but thats maybe because my sunroof is tilted open as I cant close it. I tried again to pry off the wiper arm with my hands and WD40 but nothing. I know if I exert more force I'll end up breaking something so I'm waiting till after work to pick up the battery terminal puller for a parts store. So far I don't see water build up anywhere.

Let me also include that it has rained 21/30 days so far in NY. *sigh*

[EuroPersuasion]

Update:

Installed new CECM, door windows started to work but everything else still the same :/

One thing I noticed before and after installation is that the rear fog light picture is illuminated on the headlight switch. When I turn the switch all the way to the right and pull up twice is when the headlights turn on now. But this is weird, because everything else doesn't work. Signals still do not work, brake lights do not work, interior dome lights still not working.

I was not able to recode the cecm, I need a new interface. Anyone in the Albany New York region able to lend me theirs for the hopeful fix? I can come by if close enough and we can possibly do it at any location granted.

With my wire and vcds lite:
When I check the 46- central conv. Module
00457- control module for network (J519)
01134- alarm horn (h12)
29-00 short to ground

Nothing for engine fault codes

09- Cent. elect.
Cant connect to central electric

Under 03-ABS Brakes
00526 Brake light switch-F
36-00 open circuit

01826- Sensor for steering Angle (G85) supply voltage terminal 30
35-00


The hood open symbol still shows on the cluster and the hood is closed.

Some pictures to help show what I am talking about the switch light and position. Notice its full to the right in one and no dash lights.



This last image shows this switch still being powered when the car is off and no key in the ignition.

[5ktq]

Hmm something is out to lunch there. Ill take a look at the wiring difram later and see what that switch is connected to. the switch part is to the CECM, but the backlighting might be CCM or cluster, i forget how it works...

edit: thinking about it im pretty sure the backlighting is CECM, too. I wonder if the replacement isnt bad also. (esp since it still doesnt communicate?!) I'll still check the wiring in a bit.

[EuroPersuasion]

Well the new CECM isnt re-programmed so it could be that? I mean the windows started to work and so did the headlights (low beams only) when I turned and pulled the switch as mentioned above. I also opened the new CECM to check if it was burned or anything seemed off and it didn't seem like so.

[EuroPersuasion]

So I called the audi dealer and he tech there said that the ecm should just be plug and play. Everywhere else I checked said it needs recoding. Not sure what to do at this point


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[EuroxS4]

You have faults stored for the 09 module.Central electrics.Have you replaced that module yet???Also check for fuses for that module and make sure all your connections are good.Also make sure the replacement you have matches what came out of the car.No communication to J519(09Central electrics is your issue here.Also if you want try clearing the faults see what comes back as central electrics will shut circuits down if there a fault or high resistance in the wire to prevent fires and overload of circuits.

PM me your vin Ill pull up the wiring diagram for 09 and see if theres anything that you need to check.

[EuroPersuasion]

You have faults stored for the 09 module.Central electrics.Have you replaced that module yet???Also check for fuses for that module and make sure all your connections are good.Also make sure the replacement you have matches what came out of the car.No communication to J519(09Central electrics is your issue here.Also if you want try clearing the faults see what comes back as central electrics will shut circuits down if there a fault or high resistance in the wire to prevent fires and overload of circuits.

PM me your vin Ill pull up the wiring diagram for 09 and see if theres anything that you need to check.

Yes, I replaced the module those are all the codes after replacements. I checked fuses and all seemed to be fine. The replacement is the same exact part number but it was out of a 07 I believe. The date on the module says 2002 though. I tried clearing codes but no luck they come back.

Pmed you my VIN. Thanks.

Are these fuses also for the module? Dont worry there is a fuse in the first black connector I was testing it before I took the picture

Also, any ideas where 3 wires in the back of the module run to? 2 are black clips and one is a gray clip with a black locking mechanism that locks the connector to the module.

[EuroPersuasion]

I ran an autoscan, here are the results.

Chassis Type: 8E - Audi A4 B6
Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,26,36,37,45,46,55,56,63,76

Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 909 518 F
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 0016701
Shop #: WSC 14131
No fault code found.
Readiness: 0110 1101

Address 03 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 614 517 A
Component: ABS/ESP allrad 1726
Coding: 04275
Shop #: WSC 06435
1 Fault Found:
01826 - Sensor for Steering Angle (G85): Supply Voltage Terminal 30
35-00 - -

Address 08 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 820 043 G
Component: A4 Klimaautomat 1012
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 63351
8 Faults Found:
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
00604 - Potentiometer Positioning Motor for Air Flow Flap (G113)
30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent
01592 - Air Quality Sensor (G238)
37-00 - Faulty
00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65)
07-10 - Signal to Low - Intermittent
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
00457 - Control Module for Network (J519)
49-00 - No Communications
01206 - Signal for Duration of Ignition: OFF
27-00 - Implausible Signal
00474 - Control Module for Immobilizer
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

Address 09 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller:
Note: Excessive Comm Errors

Address 16 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 953 549 L
Component: Lenksáulenmodul 0308
Coding: 00041
Shop #: WSC 63351
5 Faults Found:
00576 - Terminal 15
57-10 - Electric Circuit Failure - Intermittent
00883 - Ignition Switch (D) Terminal S
57-10 - Electric Circuit Failure - Intermittent
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
00474 - Control Module for Immobilizer
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

Address 17 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 920 950 H
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D26
Coding: 03200
Shop #: WSC 08307
WAULC68E12A289164 AUZ6Z0B0059311
3 Faults Found:
00562 - Sensor for Oil Level/Temperature (G266)
27-00 - Implausible Signal
00457 - Control Module for Network (J519)
49-00 - No Communications
01304 - Radio
49-00 - No Communications

Address 46 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 959 433 T
Component: Komfortgerát T5B 0619
Coding: 11788
Shop #: WSC 63351
6 Faults Found:
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
29-00 - Short to Ground
01616 - Signal Wire to Interior Monitor
49-00 - No Communications
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
37-00 - Faulty
00457 - Control Module for Network (J519)
49-00 - No Communications
01561 - Left Rear Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
01562 - Right Rear Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
End -------------------------------------------------------

Also when I try to connect to 09- Cent. Electr.

I get this error,

"Too many communications Errors to Continue!"

[Gin+]

I'm going to guess by looking at the carnage of the original module you have additional issues. You need to break out the multi-meter and go to work with a wiring diagram. First thing I'd take a look at is the board and see what fried and maybe try and trace it backwards, but I wouldn't get too hung up on that. Second, check wiring for proper input voltage and more importantly stray voltage (ground that has a (+) charge). Hopefully, your replacement module isn't toast.

[EuroPersuasion]

I'm going to guess by looking at the carnage of the original module you have additional issues. You need to break out the multi-meter and go to work with a wiring diagram. First thing I'd take a look at is the board and see what fried and maybe try and trace it backwards, but I wouldn't get too hung up on that. Second, check wiring for proper input voltage and more importantly stray voltage (ground that has a (+) charge). Hopefully, your replacement module isn't toast.

I have a multi meter(mm), and this might be a stupid question but how do I test a ground wire? Does the positive end of the mm touch the ground wire and the ground end of the mm touch any ground on the car.

If so, I should get no reading from ground ?

[5ktq]

https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/d...5851833&api=v2

Page 6 on. "J519" is the CECM.
Connected to wipers, comfort can bus, headlight switch (but not the red backlighting, it looks like - the page for what is connected to it is not there), all exterior lights, the horns (via relay), brake switch, load reduction relay (activates it).

the 10 pin connector is mostly power in / out, wiper motor
23 pin connector is medium power things, most of the higher wattage bulbs, washer fluid motors, etc
32 pin connector is the lightest loads. Headlight switch, hazard switch, can bus, marker lights, etc

[EuroPersuasion]

I think I might need to go to the Audi dealer for this one ... *sigh*


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[Gin+]

Just so we're clear... Essentially the car's chassis is grounded or connected to the (-) side of the battery. So you could touch the red (+) positive lead of the multi-meter to the (+) battery terminal; and then touch the black (-) negative lead to the intake manifold or fender bolt etc. and show 12+ volts, just as you would if you touched the (-) lead to the (-) battery terminal. However, most modern vehicle electronics have dedicated (-) lead wires and don't rely on chassis grounds.

You could check a (-) lead against the chassis of the car by using the ohm (resistance) setting on the multi-meter in the manner you asked and you'd be looking for 0 ohms meaning in this case a complete circuit.

All of this is moot though without the cars wiring diagrams. I'd suggest aiding the help of a buddy with a little bit of electronic knowledge and getting yourself access to a Bentley manual.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdUK6RPdIrA