RPM won't go higher than 4K on WOT

[JojoManigbas]

Car: 2007 Audi A4 B7 2.0t FSI front wheel drive.
Audi is seldom driven. It currently only has 43K miles.

I was driving this car until 2013 - that's when I gave it to my daughter.
She returned it (January 2017) due to it running sluggish and was emitting smoke on WOT. Plus it was consuming oil. 1 qt every 1K miles. Also, CEL is on.

Things I have done/replaced:
1. Replaced all 4 spark plugs with Bosh double platinum
2. Replaced all 4 coils
3 Replaced engine and cabin Air Filters
4. Replaced PCV and PCV Gasket
5. Replaced Cam Follower
6. Cleaned MAF
7. Battery and alternator checked at autozone . Found no issue with either one. Battery is at 12.58V
8. Replaced Diverter Valve with Upgraded Pierburg 06H145710D

No more CEL or error code and no more smoke. No signs of vacuum leak (sprayed brake fluid around intake, vacuum lines, etc).

Issue: When on the highway, and I floor it (WOT) the RPM will not go higher than 4K. I recall it use to climb well over 6K RPM.
The audi eventually gets upto 80 MPH - but takes more time than before.

I'm stuck - Can someone advice on what to check next?

Thank you in advance,
Jojo

[JojoManigbas]

sorry - I forgot, I also replaced the Valve Cover Gasket (there was a small leak towards the back).

-Jojo

[marlboro]

You sprayed brake fluid around intake and vacuum lines?

My advise would be to scan it for errors and take it up from there.

[JojoManigbas]

I did have it scanned - No error code.

[JojoManigbas]

Sorry again - correction... I sprayed brake cleaner NOT brake fluid.

[dalmation53]

Do compression test. Are the coils oem or aftermarket? Check for a blown head gasket. Does it feel like a misfire in WoT?

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[GearHead7]

Sounds like your in "limp mode" the ECU is not allowing the vehicle to go over a set RPM to ease strain on components of the motor or trans. Instead of just replacing needless stuff, why don't you scan the car with diagnostic scanner like VAG or perhaps you should go to your local AutoZone and have them do it, its free. After they tell you the P-codes you can now head on over to http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...ry:Fault_Codes which you can now specifically look up the very code that your Check Engine Light is being triggered for or if the ECU is indeed in "limp-mode", it will save you a huge headaches- the website will also tell you what the p-code is for, as well as tell you what the probable cause, and the most probable solutions to solve the issue, along with a detail info about what that specific p-code does or moniters.
Goodluck.
Sometimes the ECU will save the codes even if the light is not on, so you can go back and look them up- (its happen to me) that will atleast give you an idea of where and what to check out.
Black smoke and low RPM as well as the burning oil might signify an oil leak at the Turbo, the oil cooler line maybe leaking oil into the system.

[JojoManigbas]

Are the coils oem or aftermarket? I replaced the coil with "Ignition Coil Pack Set of 4 - 06E905115E Volkswagen & Audi Vehicles" purchased from amazon.
product feedback is very good.

Does it feel like a misfire in WoT? It sometimes (but very rare) feels like there's a misfire for a couple of seconds.

[JojoManigbas]

Gearhead7 - When I had it scanned - it was at autozone. No P codes.
The items I replaced are either maintenance (ex.park plugs, air filters), needs replacing (ex. PCV had a diaphragm tear), or items mentioned in forum to check. However, If I'm going to check it might as well replace them since I'm there anyway (ex. cam follower and DV upgrade). One of the coils was bad. I replace all 4 just for looks with the red R8 style.

[pezgoon]

lol I read that first post, I will say one thing

She ran it without oil

I did it to my first car, she killed it lol

Besides that I'm no help other than saying there may be issues with the turbo

Is it going higher than 4k when not on the highway?


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[GearHead7]

Gearhead7 - When I had it scanned - it was at autozone. No P codes.
The items I replaced are either maintenance (ex.park plugs, air filters), needs replacing (ex. PCV had a diaphragm tear), or items mentioned in forum to check. However, If I'm going to check it might as well replace them since I'm there anyway (ex. cam follower and DV upgrade). One of the coils was bad. I replace all 4 just for looks with the red R8 style.

Goodpoint- your def right.
But I honestly think you have a turbo oil cooler issue going on- The low RPM and "sluggish" response is indicating a lack of boost, and black smoke from the exhaust is clearly indicating the oil is being burned off and part of the oil being burned off at the turbo is going into the exhaust right in line with the turbo. I would take the bottom engine cover off, look at the turbo see if you can see oil collecting on the exhaust headers, or the oil cooler lines, perhaps some indication of this theory.

You can take the turbo intake hose off and shine a light down it or take it off from the bottom and see if you have oil just building up in or after the intercooler as well because if the leak is happening at the oil cooler at the turbo- you could be making the intercooler less efficient as well and hence sluggish response, if this is the case you would def have oil just sitting in this part of the vacuum system and pooling up, and it should be easy to diagnose.
A lil bit of oil in this system is normal, but if you have a quart or more of oil in the turbo hoses/ intercooler hose then you def should check into it.

[JojoManigbas]

I will check for oil in the intercooler hose(s). I saw in you tube that I can drill a small hole at the lowest point and let any oil drain out.

[GearHead7]

I will check for oil in the intercooler hose(s). I saw in you tube that I can drill a small hole at the lowest point and let any oil drain out.

"Drill a hole?" Maybe Im misunderstanding what you mean, but you definitely do NOT want to drill a hole into any part of the turbo hoses/vacuum/intercooler hoses. It would create a vacuum/boost leak. Just take the clamp off the hose after the intercooler and pull the hose off. You will see the hose that goes from the first intercooler connected to the front-bottom of the bumper- you will see where it connects/ (right under the turbo) take that hose off by taking the clamp off- this is also the lowest point of the system.

[Okedokey]

Yeah i have seen that video, do not do that, he replaced the hole with a self-tapping screw - DODGY!

Just remove the lower hose and drain it.

[Theiceman]

sounds like cat is plugged up or melted from trying to process all that oil. can you rev it past 4 K in neutral ?

[GearHead7]

ALso, Don't be alarmed when you see oil coming out, it is perfectly acceptable and normal to have a 1 or 2 cups of oil in their. I'm in the process of replacing my oil filter housing assembly and I decided to do this very thing to drain all oil from every hose I could think of and I had easily a cup or so of oil between the two intercoolers. However, if you have close to a QT of oil or more, than we can pinpoint it down to the oil coolers or perhaps something else but most likely that, alot of knowledgable people on here that know alot more than me and will help with the diagnosing if you do the actual checks.
You can even jack up one side of the vehicle so the car is slanted to one side and that will help drain the oil in the middle metal line that runs the length of your bumper.

[JojoManigbas]

Unscrewed and removed the hoses (left and right side).
The driver side had 6 or 7 oz. (as per GearHead7 - its normal). On the passenger side - only a couple of drops.

@ Theiceman - yes I can rev way pass 4K, even pass 6K to almost red line while in neutral.

[GearHead7]

Perhaps the turbo is just going bad- you can check that by taking the hose off from the opposite side and wiggle the turbine and see if the shaft has a lot of play in it.
There is a DIY for a throttle body alignment to make sure that your TB is align properly for air flow- but you need a VAG/scanner for that.
Could be dirt fuel injectors that maybe are clogged and not getting enough fuel through.
Perhaps PVC, honestly I can't imagine it being something major that is malfunctioning simply because you have no CEL-but that's not always the case.

[GearHead7]

You said that the smoke has went away, and the only issue is the WOT at 4K/ how about the oil? Are you still consuming the oil?

[GearHead7]

Perhaps like the other guy said above- your catalytic converter is blown because of the high volume of oil smoke you had going through it, so now it's restricting the exhaust flow and choking , as you give it more throttle, the more exhaust is getting chocked at the car therefore not allowing or hindering you at that 4K rev.
You can test this too with the two O2 sensors- but you need again, a VAG

[Okedokey]

Perhaps like the other guy said above- your catalytic converter is blown because of the high volume of oil smoke you had going through it, so now it's restricting the exhaust flow and choking , as you give it more throttle, the more exhaust is getting chocked at the car therefore not allowing or hindering you at that 4K rev.
You can test this too with the two O2 sensors- but you need again, a VAG

Wouldnt that also be true in neutral?

[GearHead7]

Wouldnt that also be true in neutral?

I have no clue, I'm just throwing ideas out there for op to try,and take a look at. I know if it were me, I would be doing all of the above. In neutral the crank is disengaged from the drive shaft so perhaps without the needed torque of spinning the drive shaft along with all four wheels the motors crank shaft is free floating with less strain therefore able to get at 6k easy but in gear with the added strain of the drive train, it struggles. Not sure tho.

[Brillo]

I don't think it would be true in neutral because it takes a lot less fuel/air to hit 4000 rpm in neutral than under load. So if there is a clog in the exhaust system it might not show up until under load. this raises a good point though. What is the rev limit in first gear versus 3rd gear? If your rev limit is noticeably higher in the low gears than higher gears it could point to a clogged cat.

[GearHead7]

One more thing...

If the car is a Tiptronic Transmission-
some info on the transmission= It's pretty smart- The transmission knows when the driver "floors it; pedal to the ground" that the driver wants to speed up quickly and it will compensate by changing the shift patterns. It will shift from 2nd to 3rd at a higher RPM to allow for the longer torque in the lower gearing, giving you want your telling the car- torque and quick speed.
If you are driving conservatively the TIP transmission will lower the threshold for the shift patterns to 2-3k RPM.
Now, if you have the it just "S" (sport) it will keep the higher RPM shift pattern at all times, If its in "D" (drive) it will fluctuate as per driver's request through the accelerator.
Self Shifting Sport mode- This is where you control the up and down shifts up to a certain preset RPM (usually redline) before the TCM computer will automatically shift you, but again you have the freedom to control the shifting pattern to your desire to a certain limit.
How does the rev range respond to each of the different shifting modes, "S" & "D" and "Sport shifting" (where you up shift and downshift- on the right side of the other modes)

I would go for a drive, put it in all 3 different shifting modes and see if one allows you to reach redline or if they are all limited to that 4k mark you are describing.

Also, are you still consuming oil?

[JojoManigbas]

@ GearHead7 - 3 months ago is when I started working on the car (replacing parts). It was also the same time where I did an oil and filter change.
I have run just 200 miles since - I won't know for sure if I'm still consuming oil until a few hundred more miles.
BTW - we use to add a qt. of oil around 1K.

The Audi is Tiptronic - I will drive it manual mode and see how rides going through the grears.

[GearHead7]

@ GearHead7 - 3 months ago is when I started working on the car (replacing parts). It was also the same time where I did an oil and filter change.
I have run just 200 miles since - I won't know for sure if I'm still consuming oil until a few hundred more miles.
BTW - we use to add a qt. of oil around 1K.

The Audi is Tiptronic - I will drive it manual mode and see how rides going through the grears.

I know the self sport shifting has a computer so you don't accidentally shift down or up at the wrong times, but you obviously should shift accordingly to your RPM no matter what, esp down shifting, even tho the computer is helping you do not want to put a lot of strain on the transmission going from 4th gear at 6k RPM down to 3rd, Just keep it modest yet try it hard enough on the up shifts.

[Xplycko]

Black smoke is not oil, black smoke is fuel. I would think you had a very rich condition caused by a bad turbo or other fueling issue. The bearings in the turbo could be partially seized or the cat could be clogged. Just my .02

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[torrque]

Mine was using oil a lot, to the same degree , about 1qt per 1000 miles. It was the plastic valve cover, it was siphoning oil into the intercoolers via the turbo. Bought a new valve cover, pcv valve and gaskets, no more oil usage.
Open up you intercooler pipes, I bet you there's a lot of oil in there.

[Okedokey]

Excess fuel can also cause a smoked cat

[GearHead7]

Black smoke is not oil, black smoke is fuel. I would think you had a very rich condition caused by a bad turbo or other fueling issue. The bearings in the turbo could be partially seized or the cat could be clogged. Just my .02

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OP never confirmed the color of the smoke exhaust.... This isn't a diesel engine, oil will def burn anywhere from a bluish tinted black smoke to a tinted greyer color, and yes tinted black... Add in OP`s heavy oil consumption, the oil is going somewhere, and i find it hard to believe it's on the floor and hes just been walking over it this whole time.

[GearHead7]

He opened them already, and I explained to him a lil bit of oil in the IC hoses is normal, and he confirmed the one was just about dry and the other one did have a lil bit of oil in it, OP said 6 or 7 fl. Oz of oil- That might be a lil heavy but if it hasn't been off for the life of the car, than that's not much.

[Xplycko]

I have never seen black engine oil smoke and i work on diesel engines daily so thats not my train of though here, thought it was stated earlier that the smoke color was black, must have been my mistake. 90% darker smoke relates to fuel conditions. But then again all fuels are made from pertroleum so you got me there.

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[GearHead7]

Black smoke is not oil, black smoke is fuel. I would think you had a very rich condition caused by a bad turbo or other fueling issue. The bearings in the turbo could be partially seized or the cat could be clogged. Just my .02

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But you do have a point to the fuel mixture...
- IF the motor fell out of time and the exhaust valves are opening prematurally that could def let the unburnt fuel to burn through the exhaust, without a complete combustion the motor would not hit its 6k rev mark quickly and or struggle to do so.

[Xplycko]

I agree. Problem is I cant figure out why the engine is being choked at 4k. It would either be the ecu "limping" and refusing to increase all deliveries or something acting like a "clog". I have seen a spun turbo do exactly what he is describing. It didnt make any "bad" or unusual noises it was just siezing up. If he lost an oil supply line that would explain it. Or if somehow the oil was leaking directly into the turbo itself. Idk i will keep studying on it. Sucks when it should be right there to find but no dice.

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[GearHead7]

NUHH, fuel def burns black- I was just trying to point out Ive had oil consumption in a 3.6L VVT that was def burning black once with the slightest tint of blue to it that it was very difficult to determine. But like I said you have a great point about the fuel mixture, if OPs timing fell out of place and his exhaust valves are opening prematurally, not allowing for a full combustion, that would def account of some of the issues, the sluggish response, the low RPM at WOT.

Didnt mean to step on your toes and sound like a cocky asshole// apologise for that.

Also op said that he replaced the valve cover gasket, I wonder if he simply forgot to connect a breather hose, or perhaps he leaned to hard on the exhaust cam or intake cam and it could have slipped and that would have made it out of time- (ive actually done this once replacing a valve cover gasket, where I totaled the motor on a LS, the valve cover was leaking oil, so I replaced the gasket, when I had the valve cover off, I fail to realize that the plastic timing guide was broken and just continued with the gasket, slapped it all together and 50 miles later-totalled) big mistake and big learning lesson.

[Xplycko]

Thats a good point gearhead, if that one bank isnt picking up then half his engine is dead. I would definitely try to get an actual vag software setup logging from that car. Advance scanned my c5 one time before i got my vag scanner and it missed several cel issue's. One was a csps. And I didnt think you were an a hole gear, i merely thought you were expressing your knowledge. We all differ in what our experiences are and its good to have many avenue's of experience. Some times these gremlins are hard to find ime.

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[CharlesSampson]

So my b7 A4 has been doing some weird stuff too, been having the esp and abs light come on, along with the parking brake light flashing and my speedometer not working correctly (will drop to zero for a few minutes then work a few seconds then just bounce from zero to whatever speed I’m going back and forth) Also has acted weird when the boost is released (car jerks hard when I left off throttle and the turbo blows off) but only sometimes. When it does the jerky thing at blow off it for some reason won’t rev past just above 4K rpms (second notch after 4K) acts like its bouncing off a rev limiter

[2.0tA4]

I have the same issue, this makes a lot of sense, I recently have gotten the vacuum thing fixed, my MAF Sensor (Connector) was melted because it got unplugged and rested right on the CAT. I also have a missing o2 sensor, but don’t worry its because of my downpipe and it’s got a bung plug.

[apatchin]

Are the coils oem or aftermarket? I replaced the coil with "Ignition Coil Pack Set of 4 - 06E905115E Volkswagen & Audi Vehicles" purchased from amazon.
product feedback is very good.

Does it feel like a misfire in WoT? It sometimes (but very rare) feels like there's a misfire for a couple of seconds.

Just a heads up, Amazon sellers list part numbers on coils and they are not OEM. Ask me how i know :) I ordered a set and thought the packaging was off and double checked the listing and they called them OEM replacements with part number but they were aftermarket so i returned them. They might be the real deal but worth checking.

[EvolutionArmory]

2 year old thread. Pretty sure he’s moved on by now.