Suspension Not in Balance (Cete Module)

[Ze_Nardo6]

I have the "old" Cete module and started noticing a few weeks or so ago that the passenger side seems to sit higher than the drivers side. Remember with this module you can only adjust the front height and rear height, not passenger and driver side. Car was sitting in the garage last night (level surface) and I noticed it again so I decided to measure to prove or disprove what I saw. I do understand this air suspension will self-level meaning it will raise or lower sides to accommodate more or less weight on one side of the car. However, it was just my wife and myself last night and these pictures were taken 45 minutes after we were home from our drive.

My suspicions were correct, pretty significant difference here. How do I fix this? It's extremely annoying to my OCD self

Here are some shots in comfort mode (I realize the pics aren't the best but it's almost a half inch off which is massive)


Front Passenger (~27 and 15/16"):




Front Driver (~27.5")

[Ze_Nardo6]

The rear wheels are 3/8" off as well, passenger side being higher

[Ze_Nardo6]

No one has had this issue??

[hmuller]

No one has had this issue??

My heights were out of whack from the factory (or after my shop unsuccessfully tried to lower with VCDS 12-17 mm and put the original numbers back in). After I was able to lower 10 mm with VCDS all corners were fine. Looks like the calibration reset fixed the issue.

[[email protected]]

This wouldn't likely be the CETE module as the module is offsetting the values that the car's suspension controller is set to.

First step - Ensure the floor is 100% level that you are measuring on.

Second step - Unplug the module and plug everything back to factory. You can leave the CAN signal plugged in.

Third step - Check for any fault codes and clear

Fourth step - Get your current adaptation values from the suspension module. i.e. Get the values for all four corners "Body height front left wheel house edge", then next, etc. Note those down.

Fifth step - Level the suspension using steps like this:

I figured that since all the tools and information required to do this have already been made public on the internet, it is just matter of time until someone posts a step-by-step guide, so here it is.

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for anything that these changes may cause, or if your car breaks, or if dealership finds out and denies your warranty if something goes wrong... Try this at your own risk.

0) Set your car to "Auto" mode (not dynamic, comfort, etc.). Make sure car is on level ground. Close doors. If any doors are opened during the procedure, it will be interrupted. Make sure your car is NOT in a towing or tire changing mode.
1) Load up VCDS, go to Module 34 - Level Control
2) Go to "10 - Adaptation", take note of 4 values titled as "Body height front left wheel house edge" - mine were set to around 384 from factory.

Only change the values of the corners that are higher, use original values in the corners that are not higher. Measure the actual height on the corners that sit higher in mm and put that in as the value. The number should be higher obviously than the corners that aren't higher. This will lower the two corners that you have you the amount above the other corners which you haven't changed.

Suspension height values are measured from the center of the wheel to the edge of the fender.

4) Go to Security Access, enter code provided on the following website, under VCDS section, item #3 (I'm not posting this directly to avoid spreading sensitive data, although it's been posted on other forums in past) http://www.stemei.de/pages/coding/au...ng-des-aas.php
5) You should get a message stating that security code has been accepted - if you don't, something failed, stop doing what you're doing
6) Go to 04 - Basic Settings

*** IMPORTANT: Whatever you do, DO NOT select "Reset All Adaptations" - this is not undoable, and will require a visit to the dealer. ***

7) Select "Activate Level Control", hit "Go", wait for it to complete (should only take a second, until it says "not running").
8) Select "Delete Calibration For Level Control", hit "Go", wait for it to complete, your car will throw a fault code and you will see an error message stating Air Suspension Malfunction - this is normal.
7) Select "Start Up to Reference Level", hit "Go". This step will take about a minute, and your car will go up/down during the process (you'll hear hissing noises). Wait for it to complete, until it says "not running".
9) Select "Go Back", go to "10 - Adaptation" on the previous screen.
10) Next you will need to enter adaptation values for all 4 wheels. Enter the not higher corner values the same as you found them before. Enter new higher values for the higher corners. Select "Body height front left wheel house edge", then enter new adaptation value, and hit "Do it", then repeat for the other 3 wheels. I did it in the order the menu was arranged (FL, RL, FR, RR) - not sure if the order matters, but just in case. Each time you enter a value, you should get a message stating that it has been accepted.
11) After you're done entering adaptation for all 4 wheels, select "Go Back", and return to "04 - Basic Settings" again.
12) In basic settings, select "Calibrate Level Control" and hit go, it will take a few seconds. Wait for it to say "not running". If you get an error during this step, you either missed a step, or something went horribly wrong.
13) Select "Activate Level Control", hit "Go"
14) You're done, now go to "02 - Fault Codes" and Reset codes.

If this seems too complex it might be worth having it leveled by a shop that knows this procedure or a dealership. Then reinstall the CETE module.

Cheers,

[[email protected]]

My heights were out of whack from the factory (or after my shop unsuccessfully tried to lower with VCDS 12-17 mm and put the original numbers back in). After I was able to lower 10 mm with VCDS all corners were fine. Looks like the calibration reset fixed the issue.

Factory leveling is never really all that good, but this is also a somewhat imprecise thing in general. More fuel, less fuel, passenger, stuff in car, etc through the level off a reasonable amount even with the auto-leveling abilities of the suspension.

[Ze_Nardo6]

This wouldn't likely be the CETE module as the module is offsetting the values that the car's suspension controller is set to.

First step - Ensure the floor is 100% level that you are measuring on.

Second step - Unplug the module and plug everything back to factory. You can leave the CAN signal plugged in.

Third step - Check for any fault codes and clear

Fourth step - Get your current adaptation values from the suspension module. i.e. Get the values for all four corners "Body height front left wheel house edge", then next, etc. Note those down.

Fifth step - Level the suspension using steps like this:



If this seems too complex it might be worth having it leveled by a shop that knows this procedure or a dealership. Then reinstall the CETE module.

Cheers,

Alex, thanks for the information. First option scares me, second one is time consuming and will costs quite a bit if I have shop reinstall. Pick your poison!

[widebodyfx]

The Cete module came with a dummy plug to basically loop the harnesses back to the car to allow you to pull the module without pulling the harness.

The heights are likely off from the factory if you did not mess with VCDS.

[Ze_Nardo6]

The Cete module came with a dummy plug to basically loop the harnesses back to the car to allow you to pull the module without pulling the harness.

The heights are likely off from the factory if you did not mess with VCDS.

Never messed with VCDS for lowering, installed module with 200 miles on the car.

But if I don't pull the harness completely and take the car to Audi to get leveled properly, could/would they TD1 for this module??

[RAF_S7]

If you take it to the dealer for a suspension levelling issue, and you have an aftermarket suspension adjusting module fitted, or has a sign that one has been fitted, then your asking for trouble. Audi dealers are looking for escape clauses for warranty work. Better safe than no warranty (on suspension components, and anything else they can find while its in the shop or hooked up to the brain)

[zcd2.7t]

Have you tried actually bouncing the car while it's sitting, liked they used to to check for worn shocks? I've seen the car's suspension adjust itself even when the ignition is off after taking something out of the trunk (not something big enough to affect the level, mind you) or simply opening and closing a door...

Might sound crazy, but it would take 30 seconds, and you never know...

[Ze_Nardo6]

Have you tried actually bouncing the car while it's sitting, liked they used to to check for worn shocks? I've seen the car's suspension adjust itself even when the ignition is off after taking something out of the trunk (not something big enough to affect the level, mind you) or simply opening and closing a door...

Might sound crazy, but it would take 30 seconds, and you never know...

I'll give it a go, thanks

- - - Updated - - -

If you take it to the dealer for a suspension levelling issue, and you have an aftermarket suspension adjusting module fitted, or has a sign that one has been fitted, then your asking for trouble. Audi dealers are looking for escape clauses for warranty work. Better safe than no warranty (on suspension components, and anything else they can find while its in the shop or hooked up to the brain)

Agreed

[agent47]

I have an A6 so cant comment specifically on air ride or cete. But my 2013 and 2016- both are off if you look from behind. I asked the dealership (2 of those)- they said its normal and varies on the fuel load in the car -_-

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[[email protected]]

I have an A6 so cant comment specifically on air ride or cete. But my 2013 and 2016- both are off if you look from behind. I asked the dealership (2 of those)- they said its normal and varies on the fuel load in the car -_-

It is very common for the air suspension cars to not be perfectly level. Even normally sprung cars do not sit perfectly level based on fuel, load, people, surface, etc.

[OlyS6]

Alex, thanks for the information. First option scares me, second one is time consuming and will costs quite a bit if I have shop reinstall. Pick your poison!

Mickey,

I've had this happen (left and right side noticeably 'off') after playing with VCDS lowering on my S6. Retracing the steps, as Alex outlined from a prior VCDS thread, works well. I don't have the Cete module, and I imagine you'd likely need to disconnect that first before going through a calibration reset. The steps are actually quite easy, and the only way you can really screw it up is if you completely reset the adaptations (like the above instructions warn you NOT to do...) I would certainly go that route before taking it to the dealer.

[VVG]

It is very common for the air suspension cars to not be perfectly level. Even normally sprung cars do not sit perfectly level based on fuel, load, people, surface, etc.

This. My passenger side is about 1/4" to 3/8" lower than my driver side, front and rear. Doesn't seem to affect anything. It actually comes to within an 1/8" with someone in the the driver seat alone.

[S3LEkTA]

Mickey,

I've had this happen (left and right side noticeably 'off') after playing with VCDS lowering on my S6. Retracing the steps, as Alex outlined from a prior VCDS thread, works well. I don't have the Cete module, and I imagine you'd likely need to disconnect that first before going through a calibration reset. The steps are actually quite easy, and the only way you can really screw it up is if you completely reset the adaptations (like the above instructions warn you NOT to do...) I would certainly go that route before taking it to the dealer.

Same, after recalibrating and using actual values all seems to be level out approx. given the surface i'm on. But annoying as hell. The RR was off with baby seat, some tinkering to compensate. Good luck.

[Ze_Nardo6]

It is very common for the air suspension cars to not be perfectly level. Even normally sprung cars do not sit perfectly level based on fuel, load, people, surface, etc.

Alex, would I need to disconnect the Cete Module prior to attempting the VCDS steps you outlined above?

Mickey,

I've had this happen (left and right side noticeably 'off') after playing with VCDS lowering on my S6. Retracing the steps, as Alex outlined from a prior VCDS thread, works well. I don't have the Cete module, and I imagine you'd likely need to disconnect that first before going through a calibration reset. The steps are actually quite easy, and the only way you can really screw it up is if you completely reset the adaptations (like the above instructions warn you NOT to do...) I would certainly go that route before taking it to the dealer.

Good to hear. I may give this a go. Thanks!

[[email protected]]

Sorry for the delay in my response as I was traveling back from the IMSA race at COTA this weekend.

There is a bypass plug that you can fit which would bypass the module so you can do a factory leveling/basic setting adjustment. You would want to fit that. Know that when you do this don't expect the car to be 100% perfectly level, but you could likely get it closer. Also know that when the driver gets in the car will not be level, same with passenger's, a full fuel load or conversely light fuel load depending on when you leveled the car what fuel level you had, etc.

Cheers,

[V8TTRS7]

Any updates on this thread - same issue with my 2016 RS7 and CETE unit. Passenger front is higher than the others. Dealer has recalibrated twice and as soon as I use the MMI to change between ride heights it goes back to being uneven.
Thanks!
--Ryan