Haldex failure thread

[ccoop6]

Stay away from ADs, get yourself a pro service ;) ADs have never fixed my issues.

Wouldn’t they have to fix it to be repaired under warranty?

[sersanli]

Wouldn’t they have to fix it to be repaired under warranty?

I had a grinding noise under the car. I left my car to the AD and expected it to get fixed. They replaced rear coupling and gave me the car a month later, the noise was gone but it was %100 fwd. Only a day later, I left the car back to the AD. They didn't do anything for another 10 days and called me to say that my car got flagged as TD1. I said OK, then what? They told me that they need to replace the rear differential for $6k. Also they wanted to charge me the price of coupling ($ 1k) even if the car was flagged after it was replaced under warranty. I told them that I don't care if it is flagged as TD1 or whatever, the car was delivered faulty and it wasn't fwd when I left them the car. A little bit of arguing etc... I took the car to a well known private service.

Only in 20 mins they found out that it was the bevel box which got broken. And I can honestly say that it was working perfectly when I left the car to the AD. Asked what causes this fault and they told me it could be excessive amounts of launch control in a row or it could be the usage of emergency brake at a speed over 50 kps (in order to save haldex bevel box slips the gear).

I called the AD and told them what happened and asked them how it happened. No reply - and got blocked by the formen's mobile phone.

I got the car back only in 22 hours after leaving it to them. All fixed and working perfectly. They had the bevel box in stock and replaced it for a very good price . Unlike the AD, there wasn't anything wrong with the rear diff. What would have happened if I left the car at the AD and pay 6k for the replacement of the rear diff? It would be still fwd and I would probably hear that they couldn't fix it because it's a TD1 case.... They are pathetic and careless.

So that's my story and why I stay away from the AD :)

[ccoop6]

I

I had a grinding noise under the car. I left my car to the AD and expected it to get fixed. They replaced rear coupling and gave me the car a month later, the noise was gone but it was %100 fwd. Only a day later, I left the car back to the AD. They didn't do anything for another 10 days and called me to say that my car got flagged as TD1. I said OK, then what? They told me that they need to replace the rear differential for $6k. Also they wanted to charge me the price of coupling ($ 1k) even if the car was flagged after it was replaced under warranty. I told them that I don't care if it is flagged as TD1 or whatever, the car was delivered faulty and it wasn't fwd when I left them the car. A little bit of arguing etc... I took the car to a well known private service.

Only in 20 mins they found out that it was the bevel box which got broken. And I can honestly say that it was working perfectly when I left the car to the AD. Asked what causes this fault and they told me it could be excessive amounts of launch control in a row or it could be the usage of emergency brake at a speed over 50 kps (in order to save haldex bevel box slips the gear).

I called the AD and told them what happened and asked them how it happened. No reply - and got blocked by the formen's mobile phone.

I got the car back only in 22 hours after leaving it to them. All fixed and working perfectly. They had the bevel box in stock and replaced it for a very good price . Unlike the AD, there wasn't anything wrong with the rear diff. What would have happened if I left the car at the AD and pay 6k for the replacement of the rear diff? It would be still fwd and I would probably hear that they couldn't fix it because it's a TD1 case.... They are pathetic and careless.

So that's my story and why I stay away from the AD :)

I completely understand. I’m going to drop it off and expect an answer on what’s wrong the same day. We shall see what happens! I’ve had great experience with AD so far.

[mr gee]

I got a 2015 S3

Last month, Traction Control would light up under hard acceleration including steering wheel tugging. The car had only 42,000 kms since new and had never been launched.

Took it to an independant VAG service centre who diagnosed it as the Haldex pump (they say the 2015 model haldex pump was prone to failure) Replaced said pump with a later version. So far so good.

[ravi155]

I bought S3 2015 last month.

Tried LC, ended with front axle wheelspin like in my previous Leon Cupra FWD.
Took it to Authorised Service, they uploaded new software to haldex, everything works fine now.

[ccoop6]

I got a 2015 S3

Last month, Traction Control would light up under hard acceleration including steering wheel tugging. The car had only 42,000 kms since new and had never been launched.

Took it to an independant VAG service centre who diagnosed it as the Haldex pump (they say the 2015 model haldex pump was prone to failure) Replaced said pump with a later version. So far so good.

I bought S3 2015 last month.

Tried LC, ended with front axle wheelspin like in my previous Leon Cupra FWD.
Took it to Authorised Service, they uploaded new software to haldex, everything works fine now.

Thank you both. I’ll mention this to the service department. I tried a launch with TCS OFF and front wheels spun hard.

[ccoop6]

I took the car to Audi Atlanta yesterday. From Audi: I just got the update from my tech. We found a fault Haladex Clutch Pump and have ordered the part and some needed hardware. The part will arrive tomorrow and should have the work done my EOD tomorrow or early the next day.

This all occurred yesterday morning. I went on a ride with the shop foreman that has been there 28 years. He did a mild pull at a yield and could tell immediately the rears were not pushing. It was 40 out and wet. I must say the dealership thus far has been extremely easy to work with and very professional. Thanks again for all your help and direction.

[S3_Miles]

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...x-Fluid-Change

and moreso -

Hey Guys!

Here is a quick tutorial on how to replace your failing Haldex Pump (or clean the screen) and replace the Haldex Fluid in your MQB.




We have the parts available here:

Haldex Pump: https://jhmotorsports.com/haldex-pump...

Haldex Fluid: https://jhmotorsports.com/haldex-flui...


If you have any questions or need any help contact us:

209-968-0077 or [email protected]

[firemanjust1]

Well I finally got the haldex today fixed today. I had recently noticed a ton of wheel spin after getting a UM ECU & DSG tune and downpipe installed in August this year. I have the adjustable UM launch control which was useless under any conditions w brand new conti dws. After reading about failure after failure I was sure I had a issue.

Mileage is at around 55000 and noticed the problem right after getting tuned about 50k.

The car is 2015 S3

I continued to scan for codes over the past couple months with OBDeleven but no error ever came up for the awd system.

Warranty is up plus tuned so I decided to just buy the pump from ecs since it was only 150.00 along with new fluid another 30.00. I had my local indy shop install it when I called to pick it up he said it still spins a bit with launch control and still had the issue and some metal shavings in the fluid. I was fully expecting the worse when I drove it away. After paying and talking about the cost of a used diff I was on my way. I was pleasantly surprised when I rolled into 3rd gear no tc light , 2nd no tc light finally gave it the boot in 1st nothing but traction this is in 34 degree weather w all-seasons before would spin til 4th . I am concerned about the metal shavings and not sure what to think about it possible break in material ? But for now It is nice to be able to back in a proper AWD car again.

[TCHUN003]

Well I finally got the haldex today fixed today. I had recently noticed a ton of wheel spin after getting a UM ECU & DSG tune and downpipe installed in August this year. I have the adjustable UM launch control which was useless under any conditions w brand new conti dws. After reading about failure after failure I was sure I had a issue.

Mileage is at around 55000 and noticed the problem right after getting tuned about 50k.

The car is 2015 S3

I continued to scan for codes over the past couple months with OBDeleven but no error ever came up for the awd system.

Warranty is up plus tuned so I decided to just buy the pump from ecs since it was only 150.00 along with new fluid another 30.00. I had my local indy shop install it when I called to pick it up he said it still spins a bit with launch control and still had the issue and some metal shavings in the fluid. I was fully expecting the worse when I drove it away. After paying and talking about the cost of a used diff I was on my way. I was pleasantly surprised when I rolled into 3rd gear no tc light , 2nd no tc light finally gave it the boot in 1st nothing but traction this is in 34 degree weather w all-seasons before would spin til 4th . I am concerned about the metal shavings and not sure what to think about it possible break in material ? But for now It is nice to be able to back in a proper AWD car again.

Use OBD11 to run the following test:
Run the test with the engine on and let it run until it says done.

(22) AWD -> Basic Setting -> Pump Motor

[ccoop6]

The dealership replaced the clutch pack and replaced the fluid. The car works like a dream.

[A20V200]

My Haldex clutch pump gave up the ghost about a week ago in the snow. At the dealership getting fixed. Out of warranty by about 4 months, but I talked to AoA and filed a claim due to having the same issue about 1 year ago and the dealership "couldn't replicate the issue" and also it being a "known issue" on and having the TSB# .

We shall see what happens?

Update: Flashed back to stock from UM and got it fixed by the dealer so the parts and repair are warranteed by dealer. Picked up the car from the dealer and they said everything was fine, paid out of pocket. Went back to my tuner and flashed back to UM and came home about 1.5 hours away.

Message was on VM...Called the AoA rep and the case was closed due to "having an ECM tune and visual inspection of modifications on the car."

So watch out boys and girls...they are getting more stringent on their service protocols and physically looking for modifications. I took my S3 in a year ago as stated did the same flash/reflash and no TD1, only TD1 this time so something must have some new diagnostic program to check on tunes

At Least I got of cheap and not the clutch packs or the Haldex Diff..?

[Jake@JHM]

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...x-Fluid-Change

and moreso -

Thanks

[RM-A3]

I have a 2015 A3 Quattro and just had my haldex pump replaced under CPO warranty at 37K miles. Had same issue, front wheel spin on launch. This thread was very helpful!
I have Uni stage 1 ECU software, flashed back to stock before taking it to dealer and didn't hear anything about it, no TD1, nothing.... but I'm not sure if the ECU was scanned at dealer.

[bakedcorn]

Hey guys looking for some input on something I noticed a day a go when have a bit of fun in the snow here in Ontario. I noticed under acceleration that there is a moaning or groaning sound from the rear when I guess rear wheels are called upon for traction. The car gets moving really good in the snow and I noticed the TCS Light is flashing but that’s go to be due to the constant acceleration in the snow/ice. But what’s got me concerned is that rear groaning sound for lack of a better word. It’s like the rear wheels are trying to catch grip or something so not sure if this is normal. The wife’s A3 does not exhibit this same sound but then again I haven’t frolicked in the A3 as I have in the S3.

Thanks for the feedback.


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[will13k7]

Mine is done for. Way too easy to spin the front wheels now. 22k miles. No codes. Car is TD1 so I’m doubtful about getting it fixed under warranty.

For those who got their’s fixed with just the pump replacement, was there anyone who also didn’t have codes?

Looks like it’s either clutches, pump, controller, or the whole thing needs replaced?

[MikTip]

[MikTip]

Mine is done for. Way too easy to spin the front wheels now. 22k miles. No codes. Car is TD1 so I’m doubtful about getting it fixed under warranty.

For those who got their’s fixed with just the pump replacement, was there anyone who also didn’t have codes?

Looks like it’s either clutches, pump, controller, or the whole thing needs replaced?

The motor and controller can be output tested with VCDS

Pulling the haldex pump motor and see if its filter screen is clogged is a fast way to see how the Haldex is doing...

The debris clogging the pump is the material off of the haldex clutch disks.

[will13k7]

The motor and controller can be output tested with VCDS

thanks! I don't seem to have the same tests in vcds as that video shows for awd. It does make me wonder if audi forgot to do the adaptation step, they just changed the fluids two weeks ago and I haven't drove hard or much at all since then.

[rex_racer]

thanks! I don't seem to have the same tests in vcds as that video shows for awd. It does make me wonder if audi forgot to do the adaptation step, they just changed the fluids two weeks ago and I haven't drove hard or much at all since then.

The video lists above is for the Gen 1 controller. We're on Gen 5, so a number of things have changed. To prime the pump do the following: with car running, [22] AWD => Basic Settings => Pump Motor. Some have stated they had to pump the motor a number of times before the AWD unit was working correctly. I'd start here first, before losing fluid checking the pump screen.

[will13k7]

The video lists above is for the Gen 1 controller. We're on Gen 5, so a number of things have changed. To prime the pump do the following: with car running, [22] AWD => Basic Settings => Pump Motor. Some have stated they had to pump the motor a number of times before the AWD unit was working correctly. I'd start here first, before losing fluid checking the pump screen.

My man! Thanks, I’ll give this a shot. Kind of fun spinning the wheels on boost, but rather have Quattro.

[MikTip]

The video lists above is for the Gen 1 controller. We're on Gen 5, so a number of things have changed. To prime the pump do the following: with car running, [22] AWD => Basic Settings => Pump Motor. Some have stated they had to pump the motor a number of times before the AWD unit was working correctly. I'd start here first, before losing fluid checking the pump screen.

Guess you missed my other post...

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post13521474

Allot of people here dont have VCDS...the ones who do, know how valuable it is!

[will13k7]

To prime the pump do the following: with car running, [22] AWD => Basic Settings => Pump Motor. Some have stated they had to pump the motor a number of times before the AWD unit was working correctly. I'd start here first, before losing fluid checking the pump screen.

That worked! I owe you beer. found a puddle and launched it. No more front wheel burnouts.

[VDubLove]

Just got my 2015 CPO S3 back from the dealer with a Haldex traction concern. The traction control lights up every time the car is driven hard from a stand still and when ESC is off it appears as though the rear is not engaging at all. The car has new Continental summer tires on it and every time I have driven it hard has been in the dry.

My SA tells me that they test drove it numerous times and were unable to "replicate" my concern. I have a pretty good relationship with my SA, as this is the second Audi I have taken to this dealer for service. I would like to believe that she is being honest with me and not trying to get out of a warranty repair somehow.

The car has 29,xxx miles on it and is, according to them, not throwing any codes when scanned. I think the next step is to have a tech drive or ride along with me so he can experience what I am experiencing. Judging by what I've read on here, most people seem to have a similar experience to mine.

All I know for sure is that something is definitely wrong.

Update: Had the car at the dealer on Saturday and the shop foreman drove it with me in the passenger seat. He says the coupler doesn’t seem to be the problem because that normally shows when taking turns and going “side to side”. Car was scanned again and was not throwing any codes. To ease my mind, he suggested bringing the car back and drawing samples from the Haldex fluid and from the diff (I might have that part wrong??).

Is there anything else I should tell them to check and provide evidence of while it is there??


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[MikTip]

Update: Had the car at the dealer on Saturday and the shop foreman drove it with me in the passenger seat. He says the coupler doesn’t seem to be the problem because that normally shows when taking turns and going “side to side”. Car was scanned again and was not throwing any codes. To ease my mind, he suggested bringing the car back and drawing samples from the Haldex fluid and from the diff (I might have that part wrong??).

Is there anything else I should tell them to check and provide evidence of while it is there??


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Its the dealership acting stupid...

Their electronic "factory repair manual" tells them exactly what to do and how to check the haldex...

It has a electronic box that controls the motor.

Either the motors bad/clogged...the electronic box is bad...or both....

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post13522061

They hook up their computer and ops check the motor (22)

Amazing we here can do this and a dealership cant...

[mtarr07]

2015 S3 with intake, downpipe, turbo muffler delete, turbo inlet and tune (so stage 2).

Using launch control and upon release it spins a bit but dont get me wrong it is accelerating quickly, gets close to redline in first kind of spinning, bogs down to ~4500rpms as if traction control comes on and it grabs traction again and pulls to redline. No spinning in any gears after that.

Is this little bog to be expected especially since I'm making significantly more power over stock? Is something wrong? It IS ~40 degrees here in virginia so not exactly warm. It didn't do this when I was stock ~4 months ago but again, a lot less power.

If I use launch control in the rain it spins but isn't that kind of expected? Its wet out, you're gonna spin.

[zhanghua92]

I have the "F" rear

And now I have the UM Haldex tune and I still get some wheel spin not as much as before, but I am stage-2+ ECU / Stage-2 TCU w/Meth.

Did the tune completely fix it, no. But it did make it feel more planted and more of a push then a pull.

I have replaced:

Pump
Haldex Controller with latest revision and software
Rear transaxle w/used low mileage unit (19K).

Is it possible that the used rear had the same issue as my first one maybe. Looking for a L or M version now.

did you fixed the car? im same as you...

[zhanghua92]

I had a grinding noise under the car. I left my car to the AD and expected it to get fixed. They replaced rear coupling and gave me the car a month later, the noise was gone but it was %100 fwd. Only a day later, I left the car back to the AD. They didn't do anything for another 10 days and called me to say that my car got flagged as TD1. I said OK, then what? They told me that they need to replace the rear differential for $6k. Also they wanted to charge me the price of coupling ($ 1k) even if the car was flagged after it was replaced under warranty. I told them that I don't care if it is flagged as TD1 or whatever, the car was delivered faulty and it wasn't fwd when I left them the car. A little bit of arguing etc... I took the car to a well known private service.

Only in 20 mins they found out that it was the bevel box which got broken. And I can honestly say that it was working perfectly when I left the car to the AD. Asked what causes this fault and they told me it could be excessive amounts of launch control in a row or it could be the usage of emergency brake at a speed over 50 kps (in order to save haldex bevel box slips the gear).

I called the AD and told them what happened and asked them how it happened. No reply - and got blocked by the formen's mobile phone.

I got the car back only in 22 hours after leaving it to them. All fixed and working perfectly. They had the bevel box in stock and replaced it for a very good price . Unlike the AD, there wasn't anything wrong with the rear diff. What would have happened if I left the car at the AD and pay 6k for the replacement of the rear diff? It would be still fwd and I would probably hear that they couldn't fix it because it's a TD1 case.... They are pathetic and careless.

So that's my story and why I stay away from the AD :)

how them found out that is front bevel box? any fault code or weird sound?

[mkbss89]

Well I can add mine to the list
2016 A3 2.0T
28,000 miles
Uncontrollable spinning at anything more than 75% throttle in dry, wet. In snow car pushed the front tires and wouldn’t rotate at all. Waited for snow to be gone and took to dealership. Just called and replacing the haldex pump to fix the issue. Luckily it failed before I put the ECU and TCU tune on lol.


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[eurojunkjon]

2016 a3 2.0t
35k miles
Excessive wheel spin and haldex slow to engage.
Pump replaced under factory warranty.

[Spinnetti]

2015 S3 with intake, downpipe, turbo muffler delete, turbo inlet and tune (so stage 2).

Using launch control and upon release it spins a bit but dont get me wrong it is accelerating quickly, gets close to redline in first kind of spinning, bogs down to ~4500rpms as if traction control comes on and it grabs traction again and pulls to redline. No spinning in any gears after that.

Is this little bog to be expected especially since I'm making significantly more power over stock? Is something wrong? It IS ~40 degrees here in virginia so not exactly warm. It didn't do this when I was stock ~4 months ago but again, a lot less power.

If I use launch control in the rain it spins but isn't that kind of expected? Its wet out, you're gonna spin.

Are you fully deactivating everything by holding the traction control button for like 5 seconds? Should just rocket off if everything is shut off, but if only partially shut off I think it will do a torque intervention on spin like you mention (I'm stage II also)

[eurojunkjon]

2016 a3 2.0t
35k miles
Excessive wheel spin and haldex slow to engage.
Pump replaced under factory warranty.

Pump didn’t fix the issue haldex clutch was replaced also and fixed the issue

[VDubLove]

[QUOTE=VDubLove;13527515]Update: Had the car at the dealer on Saturday and the shop foreman drove it with me in the passenger seat. He says the coupler doesn’t seem to be the problem because that normally shows when taking turns and going “side to side”. Car was scanned again and was not throwing any codes. To ease my mind, he suggested bringing the car back and drawing samples from the Haldex fluid and from the diff (I might have that part wrong??).

Is there anything else I should tell them to check and provide evidence of while it is there??


Picked up the car today from the dealer. The pump was replaced under warranty per TSB 2049498/3. What a difference! The car feels alive again and is a proper Audi.


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[MikTip]

Im just gonna leave these here....

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...er/0cq907554j/

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...kit/0cq598549/

[Benboxs3]

Did you ever manage to sort this i’m getting the same😭

[Benboxs3]

When I had this issue, the AWD fault code would be logged after every burn out from launch control

I’m having same issue throws a code every time
I use launch control

[Benboxs3]

Sorry to start this up again guys! But i’m dying and almost coming to the conclusion of setting the car on fire!

All wheel drive
C1113 07 (008) mechanical failure
Intermittent

I’ve replaced the rear diff, haldex controller and pump still no luck. So I then went to Audi and updated the haldex controller and still no different!

I then yesterday replaced the bevel box as I’ve seen a few people had a problem with that! And guess what?!

STILL NO LUCK 😭

Throws a code every time I use launch control but you can tell it’s not the same as it should be. Thanks guys

[S3_Miles]

I know this is the "FAILURE" thread, but to help counterbalance the belief that ALL are doomed, I had my wife's 2016 A3 Quattro in for service at Audi Burlingame. She works there so I got a discount on a Haldex service. It has 35K on it and was in for the 35k service. I asked "While your in there, can you pull the pump - check the screen - replace the fluid, etc.

Was clean when the pump came out. No debris. They refilled with new fluid and all is good.

Will be doing my 2015 S3 next which also has 35k and will report back

[eurojunkjon]

I know this is the "FAILURE" thread, but to help counterbalance the belief that ALL are doomed, I had my wife's 2016 A3 Quattro in for service at Audi Burlingame. She works there so I got a discount on a Haldex service. It has 35K on it and was in for the 35k service. I asked "While your in there, can you pull the pump - check the screen - replace the fluid, etc.

Was clean when the pump came out. No debris. They refilled with new fluid and all is good.

Will be doing my 2015 S3 next which also has 35k and will report back

My pump actually wasn’t clogged at all it was still replaced per the tsb it was my haldex clutch that failed and was replaced to fix the issue

[Coolrunning]

Just dropped off my 15’ S3 with 20,800 miles on it. Never had an issue and it’s just time to get new fluids and clean the screen filter. I asked them to take pictures of the screen so I can share it with everyone. I’ll keep y’all posted as to what it looks like.