Haldex failure thread

[Burton089]

1. Dealership discovered it at 30K service. I had noticed occasional wheel spin from a standstill, but I thought it was because all four tires need to be replaced.
2. 22,477
3. 2018 S3
4. C111204: Haldex clutch pump faulty
5. Pump replaced under original warranty

I’m the original owner and for the most part drive my S3 pretty conservatively; I haven’t launched it. The car is completely stock.

Is the only way to know if the replaced pump has fixed any issues with my Haldex to launch and see how much front wheel spin I get? From reading through this thread, it seems some have had issues with their rear differential but there weren’t error codes? I’m now concerned there could be more issues that the dealership didn’t discover. Thx!

From experience you will absolutely be able to tell if you launch the car. If the haldex is working properly, you’ll hear no very little, like two revolutions of wheel spin or non at all. If it’s not working you’ll know. It will be burnout city. All the way through if on second gear some of third even if it’s not a great surface. Good luck brother

[MrZeeMan]

I bought my car at 40k miles and had a feeling a few weeks after I purchased it that the rear wheels were not working. Even accelerating at a stop hard chirps the tires. I tried launched control once and all it did was spin and went no where. Took it to the dealership and said it needed a new rear diff @ $9k. Since I had a 3rd party warranty, they didn't want to cover it and asked that I bring it to the independent dealership that I bought it from. Independent dealership found nothing wrong with it but cleaned out the pump and filter. 31 days later I got my car back but nothing was changed. Launch control still spun and I spin tires from a stop.

Tried the ODB11 pump motor and reset adaptations method and voila, no more chirping and the far feels much faster off the line.

Internet knowledge > dealerships.

[XMetal]

I bought my car at 40k miles and had a feeling a few weeks after I purchased it that the rear wheels were not working. Even accelerating at a stop hard chirps the tires. I tried launched control once and all it did was spin and went no where. Took it to the dealership and said it needed a new rear diff @ $9k. Since I had a 3rd party warranty, they didn't want to cover it and asked that I bring it to the independent dealership that I bought it from. Independent dealership found nothing wrong with it but cleaned out the pump and filter. 31 days later I got my car back but nothing was changed. Launch control still spun and I spin tires from a stop.

Tried the ODB11 pump motor and reset adaptations method and voila, no more chirping and the far feels much faster off the line.

Internet knowledge > dealerships.

If you don't mind, can you please summarize and provide details as what/how you did with OBD11 pump motor and reset adaptations method? Thanks.

[Davethaboss]

If you don't mind, can you please summarize and provide details as what/how you did with OBD11 pump motor and reset adaptations method? Thanks.

I love how no one asks me this question after changing my pump 3 times and learning you can force a faulty pump to prime by halting the procedure by spinning one of the rear tires when it's on jacks and dropping it down and running the pump afterwards.

Are you on VCDS or OBDEleven?

"OBD11" can mean Carista, normal scan tool, etc...

The procedure in VCDS compared to OBDEleven is different. That's why I am asking.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

[XMetal]

I love how no one asks me this question after changing my pump 3 times and learning you can force a faulty pump to prime by halting the procedure by spinning one of the rear tires when it's on jacks and dropping it down and running the pump afterwards.

Are you on VCDS or OBDEleven?

"OBD11" can mean Carista, normal scan tool, etc...

The procedure in VCDS compared to OBDEleven is different. That's why I am asking.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

I thought OBD11 = OBDEleven? It's OBDII that can mean anything. Anyway - OBDEleven pump reset procedure would greatly be appreciated - for my future reference when my pump does fail again. Thanks.

[Davethaboss]

I thought OBD11 = OBDEleven? It's OBDII that can mean anything. Anyway - OBDEleven pump reset procedure would greatly be appreciated - for my future reference when my pump does fail again. Thanks.

I've seen people write OBD11 and mean OBDII and then they say I gave them wrong instructions because Carista does not let them do what VCDS can.

Anyways.

First things first.

If you enable GMeter is it frozen? If the GMeter is frozen and not working that implies Haldex Controller has detected a fault. Using GMeter is the easiest visual way of seeing if you have a faulty pump.

I assume you are past this stage now.

Make sure the car is level. (This sounds silly but, during my trial and error I learned if the car isn't level that the haldex clutch will not actuate fast enough or it will not apply enough pressure resulting in the rear wheels dragging. This would make sense because, it's probably taking a measurement of different sensors during the re-learn process.)

Please go to [22] - AWD and then go to basic settings and hit "Pump Motor." Then go to the "pump motor" section and select "all adaptations values." Make sure to press and hold the check mark at the bottom right. You MUST wait at least 30 seconds. I promise you that you will hear the motor run and it will purge the system a couple times during the re-learn process.

OBDEleven takes more time than VCDS for some reason. Not sure why but, I think it has do with VCDS' specific output sequence which involves closing and opening the diff, resetting adaptations, pumping the motor, etc... in a short period of time.

I do not know the procedure perfectly but, I have kind of guessed what it is through trial and error. The automotive industry is a fucking joke and they are by far the biggest gatekeepers around.

If you have further problems or the motor does not run let me know.

There are next steps after that.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

[XMetal]

Thanks for the detailed response - very much appreciated!

I've seen people write OBD11 and mean OBDII and then they say I gave them wrong instructions because Carista does not let them do what VCDS can.

Anyways.

First things first.

If you enable GMeter is it frozen? If the GMeter is frozen and not working that implies Haldex Controller has detected a fault. Using GMeter is the easiest visual way of seeing if you have a faulty pump.

I assume you are past this stage now.

Make sure the car is level. (This sounds silly but, during my trial and error I learned if the car isn't level that the haldex clutch will not actuate fast enough or it will not apply enough pressure resulting in the rear wheels dragging. This would make sense because, it's probably taking a measurement of different sensors during the re-learn process.)

Please go to [22] - AWD and then go to basic settings and hit "Pump Motor." Then go to the "pump motor" section and select "all adaptations values." Make sure to press and hold the check mark at the bottom right. You MUST wait at least 30 seconds. I promise you that you will hear the motor run and it will purge the system a couple times during the re-learn process.

OBDEleven takes more time than VCDS for some reason. Not sure why but, I think it has do with VCDS' specific output sequence which involves closing and opening the diff, resetting adaptations, pumping the motor, etc... in a short period of time.

I do not know the procedure perfectly but, I have kind of guessed what it is through trial and error. The automotive industry is a fucking joke and they are by far the biggest gatekeepers around.

If you have further problems or the motor does not run let me know.

There are next steps after that.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

[MrZeeMan]

I've seen people write OBD11 and mean OBDII and then they say I gave them wrong instructions because Carista does not let them do what VCDS can.

Anyways.

First things first.

If you enable GMeter is it frozen? If the GMeter is frozen and not working that implies Haldex Controller has detected a fault. Using GMeter is the easiest visual way of seeing if you have a faulty pump.

I assume you are past this stage now.

Make sure the car is level. (This sounds silly but, during my trial and error I learned if the car isn't level that the haldex clutch will not actuate fast enough or it will not apply enough pressure resulting in the rear wheels dragging. This would make sense because, it's probably taking a measurement of different sensors during the re-learn process.)

Please go to [22] - AWD and then go to basic settings and hit "Pump Motor." Then go to the "pump motor" section and select "all adaptations values." Make sure to press and hold the check mark at the bottom right. You MUST wait at least 30 seconds. I promise you that you will hear the motor run and it will purge the system a couple times during the re-learn process.

OBDEleven takes more time than VCDS for some reason. Not sure why but, I think it has do with VCDS' specific output sequence which involves closing and opening the diff, resetting adaptations, pumping the motor, etc... in a short period of time.

I do not know the procedure perfectly but, I have kind of guessed what it is through trial and error. The automotive industry is a fucking joke and they are by far the biggest gatekeepers around.

If you have further problems or the motor does not run let me know.

There are next steps after that.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

What he has stated is absolutely true. After 2 months of battling with the audi dealership, 3rd party warranty, and the independent shop that I fought with, I've learned my lesson and I'm going to trust my knowledge of the true experts: people here who have collective knowledge of this car.

[steve111b]

So my G meter was frozen and the Haldex did not work. I have read a lot of information about the Haldex and I have never heard about a frozen G meter pointing to a failed Haldex. The technician discovered a poor connection to the pump and ran the rear wheels with the car on the lift after repairing the connection. I asked about doing a pump relearn/adaptation and he said he could not find this feature in VCDS. Maybe disconnecting and reconnecting the pump forced a relearn procedure on the pump. The Haldex was serviced (clean screen) a couple of weeks prior and did work for a few days.

[XMetal]

I didn't know the G meter was related to Haldex until it happened to me a few months ago => https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...s-intermittent

So my G meter was frozen and the Haldex did not work. I have read a lot of information about the Haldex and I have never heard about a frozen G meter pointing to a failed Haldex. The technician discovered a poor connection to the pump and ran the rear wheels with the car on the lift after repairing the connection. I asked about doing a pump relearn/adaptation and he said he could not find this feature in VCDS. Maybe disconnecting and reconnecting the pump forced a relearn procedure on the pump. The Haldex was serviced (clean screen) a couple of weeks prior and did work for a few days.

[Davethaboss]

So my G meter was frozen and the Haldex did not work. I have read a lot of information about the Haldex and I have never heard about a frozen G meter pointing to a failed Haldex. The technician discovered a poor connection to the pump and ran the rear wheels with the car on the lift after repairing the connection. I asked about doing a pump relearn/adaptation and he said he could not find this feature in VCDS. Maybe disconnecting and reconnecting the pump forced a relearn procedure on the pump. The Haldex was serviced (clean screen) a couple of weeks prior and did work for a few days.

VCDS has a specific output sequence from my understanding.

The G Meter was a weird observation I made when it happened to me. Funny part is if I did a pump relearn, actuated the haldex clutch to stay open fully, the G Meter would function just fine.

The minute the basic setting "ran out", lost memory, or abandoned the function due to safety concerns the G Meter would freeze indicating faulty pump or something related to the haldex system. It's pretty neat actually.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

[sleepingSG]

Good evening,

16 with 61k miles. 375 whp tune on DCT and Haldex.

Traction control lights op on moderate to heavy acceleration. So I was suspecting trouble with AWD.

Took it to a local indie VAG shop. They ran a VAGCOM and there were no codes at all from the AWD system. However the TCU did have errors ‘could not find gear’ etc.

However, I’ve had no issues shifting.

Today I had some fresh snow and some ice so I decided to test it out and threw down some heavy throttle.

The fronts slipped but then the car carried on no issue threw the snow.

When I check the tracks I can clearly see the front wheel patch but the rears have left no evidence of slipping on the same snow.

Does this sound like
a. Everything is working, the front slip and the rears activate and catch after about .5 seconds and thus no rear slip pattern
B. Haldex is not working the fronts slip and find traction after kicking up snow and the car is remaining fwd.

Should I be concerned about the TCU?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Davethaboss]

Good evening,

16 with 61k miles. 375 whp tune on DCT and Haldex.

Traction control lights op on moderate to heavy acceleration. So I was suspecting trouble with AWD.

Took it to a local indie VAG shop. They ran a VAGCOM and there were no codes at all from the AWD system. However the TCU did have errors ‘could not find gear’ etc.

However, I’ve had no issues shifting.

Today I had some fresh snow and some ice so I decided to test it out and threw down some heavy throttle.

The fronts slipped but then the car carried on no issue threw the snow.

When I check the tracks I can clearly see the front wheel patch but the rears have left no evidence of slipping on the same snow.

Does this sound like
a. Everything is working, the front slip and the rears activate and catch after about .5 seconds and thus no rear slip pattern
B. Haldex is not working the fronts slip and find traction after kicking up snow and the car is remaining fwd.

Should I be concerned about the TCU?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Use the G Meter as a reference. I had "no faults" with my pump too and it turns out the pump was still faulty. [I went through 3 at the end of the day.]

I was able to figure it out based off the G Meter. My G Meter was frozen which indicated an error. You can even open the haldex clutch manually (through OBD Eleven) and then have it go back to normal and see if it has changed and if the car feels different.

You may just have to do a pump relearn to be honest.

I had a similar error related to the TCU and cleared it and everything was fine. However my case might be different to yours.

Do yourself a favor and monitor the live data values. Look at degree of blockage specifically as well.

Show us a screenshot and we cna help you further from there.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

[XMetal]

Use the G Meter as a reference. I had "no faults" with my pump too and it turns out the pump was still faulty. [I went through 3 at the end of the day.]

I was able to figure it out based off the G Meter. My G Meter was frozen which indicated an error. You can even open the haldex clutch manually (through OBD Eleven) and then have it go back to normal and see if it has changed and if the car feels different.

You may just have to do a pump relearn to be honest.

I had a similar error related to the TCU and cleared it and everything was fine. However my case might be different to yours.

Do yourself a favor and monitor the live data values. Look at degree of blockage specifically as well.

Show us a screenshot and we cna help you further from there.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

FYI - there's no Virtual Cockpit on 2016, and thus, no G Meter.

[Davethaboss]

FYI - there's no Virtual Cockpit on 2016, and thus, no G Meter.

Oops. Completely forgot.

Well then, all you have is live data then. I don't know what else you could use...

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

[xander3zero]

Is G Meter available on S3 or just RS3? I didn't think my S3 had it.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Audizine Forum mobile app

[XMetal]

Is G Meter available on S3 or just RS3? I didn't think my S3 had it.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Audizine Forum mobile app

G Meter is officially only available on the RS3, but you can turn (and it works, unlike the power meters) with either OBD11 or VCDS

[xander3zero]

G Meter is officially only available on the RS3, but you can turn (and it works, unlike the power meters) with either OBD11 or VCDS

Wow it can be enabled with OBD11? I didn't see it in the apps on there, is there a specific process or coding?

NVM looks like plenty of threads on the topic come up with a search.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Audizine Forum mobile app

[Davethaboss]

Wow it can be enabled with OBD11? I didn't see it in the apps on there, is there a specific process or coding?

NVM looks like plenty of threads on the topic come up with a search.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Audizine Forum mobile app

It can be. The "power" gauge doesn't work because it's missing a module that the RS3 has. I forgot exactly which one but, it's not worth the effort seeing as it's hardware related and not software unfortunately...

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

[xander3zero]

It can be. The "power" gauge doesn't work because it's missing a module that the RS3 has. I forgot exactly which one but, it's not worth the effort seeing as it's hardware related and not software unfortunately...

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

Figured it out, thanks!PXL_20201230_174117692.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Audizine Forum mobile app

[Davethaboss]

Figured it out, thanks!PXL_20201230_174117692.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Audizine Forum mobile app

There you go.


I like those paddle shifters btw.
Are those the ones that click onto the existing ones?

Do they work well? Like if you grab the tippy top of one of the paddle shifters will it register as a shift?

The double stick tape ones suck for that reason.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

[xander3zero]

There you go.


I like those paddle shifters btw.
Are those the ones that click onto the existing ones?

Do they work well? Like if you grab the tippy top of one of the paddle shifters will it register as a shift?

The double stick tape ones suck for that reason.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

They click on and a screw clamps them secure. The screw just tightens a flexible bracket up against the paddle, a non-marring design.

They don't register shifts at the very top. Maybe the top half inch or so. There are grooves machined on the back (kind of a mirror of the front profile) and the shifts register along the whole length of the grooves so you can at least identify the "shiftable" area with your fingers.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Audizine Forum mobile app

[rocascope]

hello,
one newbie question on this thread :
on a A3 8V, '13,
would it be possible that the haldex doesn't work on Efficiency Mode ?
thx,

- - - Updated - - -

hello,
one newbie question on this thread :
on a A3 8V, '13,
would it be possible that the haldex doesn't work on Efficiency Mode ?
thx,

[sleepingSG]

Use the G Meter as a reference. I had "no faults" with my pump too and it turns out the pump was still faulty. [I went through 3 at the end of the day.]

I was able to figure it out based off the G Meter. My G Meter was frozen which indicated an error. You can even open the haldex clutch manually (through OBD Eleven) and then have it go back to normal and see if it has changed and if the car feels different.

You may just have to do a pump relearn to be honest.

I had a similar error related to the TCU and cleared it and everything was fine. However my case might be different to yours.

Do yourself a favor and monitor the live data values. Look at degree of blockage specifically as well.

Show us a screenshot and we cna help you further from there.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

Correct, no G-meter I’m afraid.

So the next question, I don’t have Vagcom or OBDel.

Is it worth paying for? which should I opt in to?

Or should I just drop it off at Audi and see what they come up with?

Again, I have a fancy Haldex tune i would like to keep , I don’t really want Audi to wipe it.

I managed to do a launch control with a burnout after servicing the Haldex on both ends of the car.

I also took advantage of Icey conditions and observed no rear wheel spin when the front had no traction with my eyes. Pretty clear cut.




Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[XMetal]

Correct, no G-meter I’m afraid.

So the next question, I don’t have Vagcom or OBDel.

Is it worth paying for? which should I opt in to?

Or should I just drop it off at Audi and see what they come up with?

Again, I have a fancy Haldex tune i would like to keep , I don’t really want Audi to wipe it.

I managed to do a launch control with a burnout after servicing the Haldex on both ends of the car.

I also took advantage of Icey conditions and observed no rear wheel spin when the front had no traction with my eyes. Pretty clear cut.




Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

OBD Eleven is worth every penny, IMHO.

What's the point of keeping the fancy Haldex tune if your Haldex doesn't actually work?

[sleepingSG]

OBD Eleven is worth every penny, IMHO.

What's the point of keeping the fancy Haldex tune if your Haldex doesn't actually work?

Fair point, but it seems unrelated to the actual failures.

Expanding further the TSB relating to the Haldex indicates that cleaning the fluid out and the strainer, bringing it up to temp and repeating is the proper solution for AWD isn’t working and no fault codes are stored.

I am very annoyed that Audi didn’t know there was a TSB describing exactly what I was describing given how many Haldex cars are running around. Just shows how few people will even notice it isn’t working.

So my question again, OBDeleven, VAGcom, and try the pump reset?
have the service performed described by the TSB?
Pay Audi to diagnose? They have a ridiculous $200 an hour labour fee here.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[XMetal]

Fair point, but it seems unrelated to the actual failures.

Expanding further the TSB relating to the Haldex indicates that cleaning the fluid out and the strainer, bringing it up to temp and repeating is the proper solution for AWD isn’t working and no fault codes are stored.

I am very annoyed that Audi didn’t know there was a TSB describing exactly what I was describing given how many Haldex cars are running around. Just shows how few people will even notice it isn’t working.

So my question again, OBDeleven, VAGcom, and try the pump reset?
have the service performed described by the TSB?
Pay Audi to diagnose? They have a ridiculous $200 an hour labour fee here.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

If you're DIY'ing, invest in either OBD11 or VAGcom, then try the TSB as you've described - it doesn't hurt to try other than having to buy OBD11 and some fluids. If you're out of warranty, and not going to try DIY, then I would just find a VW/Audi independent shop to repair it for you. I usually don't like taking my car to the dealer unless it's warranty related work. If paying out of pocket, 99% of the time, I would chose an independent specialist shop over a dealership. From experience, I find the quality of work from an independent specialist is much better than the dealership, and the added bonus is that you get to actually talk to the tech that works on your car with an independent...but then again, your mileage may varies.

[Davethaboss]

If you're DIY'ing, invest in either OBD11 or VAGcom, then try the TSB as you've described - it doesn't hurt to try other than having to buy OBD11 and some fluids. If you're out of warranty, and not going to try DIY, then I would just find a VW/Audi independent shop to repair it for you. I usually don't like taking my car to the dealer unless it's warranty related work. If paying out of pocket, 99% of the time, I would chose an independent specialist shop over a dealership. From experience, I find the quality of work from an independent specialist is much better than the dealership, and the added bonus is that you get to actually talk to the tech that works on your car with an independent...but then again, your mileage may varies.

100% agree

I think he should try and run the pump motor and put new fluids in it. If he has OBDEleven he will be able to see percentage of blockage and he can actually manual open and close the haldex clutch and see if it makes any difference.

I got very unlucky and went through 3 pumps before I had the right one with new fluid. I never knew these Euro cars are so damn specific. This is why everything I use down to the essential bolts I torque are to spec... I learned my lesson the hard way lol.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

[sleepingSG]

I went to prime the pump and I’ve gotten this error returned. Any ideas?

‘Function cannot be performed, mess. Length or format incorrect’

Edit: resolved

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[sleepingSG]

Never mind, I read a C111307, intermittent.

I ran the pump prime and now it’s static. The pump did make noises while priming.

Also interesting the clutch blockage percentage changes as I run the car on ice but visibly confirmed that even with this value changing there is no rear wheel activation.

Does this suggest a pump or control unit?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[sleepingSG]

100% agree

I think he should try and run the pump motor and put new fluids in it. If he has OBDEleven he will be able to see percentage of blockage and he can actually manual open and close the haldex clutch and see if it makes any difference.

I got very unlucky and went through 3 pumps before I had the right one with new fluid. I never knew these Euro cars are so damn specific. This is why everything I use down to the essential bolts I torque are to spec... I learned my lesson the hard way lol.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

Now I can see the blockage and it moves as I use throttle via OBD11. Is this bad or normal? I had thought this was measuring clutch use so to speak.

So I’m going to DIY. What all tools and supplies will I need? Triple square? Fluid and a repair kit?




Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Davethaboss]

Now I can see the blockage and it moves as I use throttle via OBD11. Is this bad or normal? I had thought this was measuring clutch use so to speak.

So I’m going to DIY. What all tools and supplies will I need? Triple square? Fluid and a repair kit?




Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

That's good. It should be moving. My understanding is that 100% blockage implies 50% power being sent to rear wheels.

In your case though, if the pump is faulty the live data will freeze like in my case.

You may have a bad controller. You can determine this by opening the haldex clutch in the actuation setting.

You need allen keys and a hex bit for the haldex pump. I don't remember the exact sizes I'm sure they are online somewhere.

Get a pick tool too because removing the connector from the controller to the pump is a pain in the ass.

Another important thing is that after you are done make sure temperature is optimal (Deutsche Auto Parts mentions the correct temperature which I forgot now). Then run the pump motor via basic settings. Go back under the car and pump more fluid in. It will accept a fair bit more fluid this time round believe it or not.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

[sleepingSG]

That's good. It should be moving. My understanding is that 100% blockage implies 50% power being sent to rear wheels.

In your case though, if the pump is faulty the live data will freeze like in my case.

You may have a bad controller. You can determine this by opening the haldex clutch in the actuation setting.

You need allen keys and a hex bit for the haldex pump. I don't remember the exact sizes I'm sure they are online somewhere.

Get a pick tool too because removing the connector from the controller to the pump is a pain in the ass.

Another important thing is that after you are done make sure temperature is optimal (Deutsche Auto Parts mentions the correct temperature which I forgot now). Then run the pump motor via basic settings. Go back under the car and pump more fluid in. It will accept a fair bit more fluid this time round believe it or not.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

Deeply appreciate the advice. Hopefully I can clear the issue up before all the ice melts which makes it easy to check on the rear wheels.

Looks like the Haldex clutch isn’t opening or closing.

When I set the actuation time and start the procedure it returns ‘function not available’

So do we think this is indeed a controller issue?

I presume I should do the pump anyway. I also want to say that a few weeks ago I did do a ‘rear Haldex fluid flush’ at the local shop, and he used the differential fluid interchangeable with this. Does this mean the fluid is clean or should I be changing it out? The service rep wasn’t clear when I pushed him on it.

I will be taking your advice on the tools regardless just to have them handy. Converting over from BMW stuff.






Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[BecksA3]

It is getting close to my time for the haldex service and I’m looking for some opinions.

I have a 16 A3 with just over 100k, and I also have the H version.

I’m running a Eurodyne stage 1+ tune and haven’t ruled out going to stage 2 or a turbo upgrade.

My long term plan for the car is to give it to my daughter in a year or so when she graduates from college.

I’m wondering if a K version swap makes sense instead of servicing the H? Just in case I do chase a little more power, but also for the longevity, since the car will be in the family for the foreseeable future, and I’ll probably get it back when she’s done with it and maybe really do it up.

Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Davethaboss]

Deeply appreciate the advice. Hopefully I can clear the issue up before all the ice melts which makes it easy to check on the rear wheels.

Looks like the Haldex clutch isn’t opening or closing.

When I set the actuation time and start the procedure it returns ‘function not available’

So do we think this is indeed a controller issue?

I presume I should do the pump anyway. I also want to say that a few weeks ago I did do a ‘rear Haldex fluid flush’ at the local shop, and he used the differential fluid interchangeable with this. Does this mean the fluid is clean or should I be changing it out? The service rep wasn’t clear when I pushed him on it.

I will be taking your advice on the tools regardless just to have them handy. Converting over from BMW stuff.






Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Hey man.

Hope I'm not too late as the ice and snow has almost completely melted.

C111307 – Mechanincal Malfunction – Passive / Sporadic (typically blocked pump, clean out and relearn or transfer box)

This was something I picked out of a website in the UK.

You have to remember I went through 3 pumps before the 3rd one actually worked

The thrust bearing on my 1st one had hole punched through side. That little bearing is what made my whole pump fail. I have learned hard way that these cars are designed under strict tolerances.

Have you replaced the pump yet?

I almost got into a screaming match with another user here because he told me I was messing something up when in reality the 2nd haldex pump I had been given was faulty.

My case was actually worse than yours too because on my 2nd pump I was getting no error codes but my rear wheels would drag.

Being able to control haldex actuation helped me open the clutch entirely and have the car operate in full FWD mode. This should be used only for testing purposes.

The rest of your live data has frozen though right? After you got the C111307 error, correct?

Pump is most likely faulty dude.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

[sleepingSG]

Hey man.

Hope I'm not too late as the ice and snow has almost completely melted.

C111307 – Mechanincal Malfunction – Passive / Sporadic (typically blocked pump, clean out and relearn or transfer box)

This was something I picked out of a website in the UK.

You have to remember I went through 3 pumps before the 3rd one actually worked

The thrust bearing on my 1st one had hole punched through side. That little bearing is what made my whole pump fail. I have learned hard way that these cars are designed under strict tolerances.

Have you replaced the pump yet?

I almost got into a screaming match with another user here because he told me I was messing something up when in reality the 2nd haldex pump I had been given was faulty.

My case was actually worse than yours too because on my 2nd pump I was getting no error codes but my rear wheels would drag.

Being able to control haldex actuation helped me open the clutch entirely and have the car operate in full FWD mode. This should be used only for testing purposes.

The rest of your live data has frozen though right? After you got the C111307 error, correct?

Pump is most likely faulty dude.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

I replaced the pump this week with no luck. Very frustrating. I decided to wait on the control unit for cost mitigation purposes.

The new pump makes noises snd all that when priming, but I can’t get the clutch to open or close.

Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[sleepingSG]

It is getting close to my time for the haldex service and I’m looking for some opinions.

I have a 16 A3 with just over 100k, and I also have the H version.

I’m running a Eurodyne stage 1+ tune and haven’t ruled out going to stage 2 or a turbo upgrade.

My long term plan for the car is to give it to my daughter in a year or so when she graduates from college.

I’m wondering if a K version swap makes sense instead of servicing the H? Just in case I do chase a little more power, but also for the longevity, since the car will be in the family for the foreseeable future, and I’ll probably get it back when she’s done with it and maybe really do it up.

Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

In woudlnt do stage 2 as I’ve heard some bezel box break and that a costly fix if it happens.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[BecksA3]

In woudlnt do stage 2 as I’ve heard some bezel box break and that a costly fix if it happens.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Good to know.
Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Davethaboss]

I replaced the pump this week with no luck. Very frustrating. I decided to wait on the control unit for cost mitigation purposes.

The new pump makes noises snd all that when priming, but I can’t get the clutch to open or close.

Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Forget the clutch at this point.

Do you have any error codes or problems launching the car?

Is live data freezing still?

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

[sleepingSG]

So I’m going to try to summarize Info we have in this thread into a brief diagnostic guide, please correct any misinfo and hopefully it will be helpful to someone. I am not a mechanic in anyway so this is all only a compilation of several sources for convenience sake, and take it with a grain of salt.

Basic symptoms: rear wheels not engaging, wheel spin on launch, FwD only.

Causes:
1. Gen VI Haldex has removed a filter to reduce weight and combined with an incorrect choice in fluid precipitates form and clog the pump in a relatively short amount of time. Less fluid circulates and metal shaves and compounds the problem damaging the pump and ultimately the clutch of the diff.

2. The Haldex controller can leak and become corroded and fail to activate the system.

3. Tuned cars can have bezel box / transfer case catastrophic failure meaning no mechanical connection to the rear wheels is present.

Diagnosis:

1. Place cell phone camera (carefully) underneath rear of car center of the car and then let off the brake and reverse slowly and then move forward slowly. Look for the prop shaft which should be rotating. If it is NOT you have a problem with the bezel box ($3k-$9k est). If it is rotating your problem lies somewhere in the rear differential system.

2. Check g meter on post ‘17 cars. The TCU and the transmission and Haldex are linked in these cars and an error will freeze the G-meter

3. Using OBDeleven or VAGCOM scan for codes. No fault code usually indicates the pump is failing.

22: AWD
16671: New pump and Fluid (~$250)
16668: New Pump and Fluid
16670: often only fluid change (~$50)

131599: Often a corroded ECU (~$750)
You will lose any Haldex tune you have if you swap this part out.

C111307: can be pump fault, Control unit, OR Show if bezel box has failed. Advised to start with camera test, then clean and replace pump before more expansive CU.

No code: perform launch control in order to cause a situation where AWD should activate and rescan. Can be bezel box, or controller, or pump. There is also a pressure relief valve that can remain locked open and pressure is unable to build via the pump.

Helpful tidbits:

-axle delta should stay near 0 under heavy throttle
-clutch should be blocking as wheel is turned and and throttle is applied. Need someone to provide confirmation of this staying value 0 in a car with a faulty pump.
-All of the rear work is relatively simply and fast to perform, 2 hex bolts for each job is all that needs to be removed. Must have a means of priming the pump after each is performed or it will not work.
-8 torx screws can be removed from controller to exam for damage.
-Clutches can be damaged if problem is not addressed for a long period. Funny sounds are reported but not guaranteed when the clutch begins to fail. But, thankfully, the solution is cheaper for MOST, and a new rear diff is not necessary even if the dealer wants to gi that route! Check situation out yourself! in my experience and many others no dealers have had any knowledge of the TSB or Haldex issues existing in general.








Sent from my iPhone using Audizine