A4 B6 rear brake question

[LarJames]

Hi everyone, I'm about to replace the rear brakes and rotors on my A4 Avant. Seems like a fairly simple job. I know there are alot of diy's for this job but I noticed on some of them (and in my Haynes manual) it mentions having to reset the self adjusting parking break. While other step by steps (Pelican Parts for example) don't even mention it.

Is this step necessary? Or is there a way to know if this is needed after the brakes/rotors have been swapped (symptoms ect).

Also, I've borrowed one of the piston compressing tools from a friend. The kit comes with a right hand and left hand threaded tool. Do you happen to know which one will be needed? I'm sure I can try them both once I tackle the job but if I can avoid putting pressure on the piston in the wrong direction that would be great.

Thanks in advance!

[eljay]

I swapped full calipers on mine and didn't have to do anything with the ebrake. Just installed the cable ends into the lever mechanism at the caliper. Since the mechanism is self-adjusting, you just pull up on the handbrake a few times and it tightens to proper level.
If you have the piston tool, it will be fairly obvious what to do. Here's a video showing similar caliper and the piston compression tool in action @ 2:45: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85Qan0Co9mc

[LarJames]

Beauty. Thanks for the reply!

[seanf86]

make sure you don't strip the 8mm allen holding the rear carriers on. If you do its a pain to remove them.

[A4-Mike]

The rear brakes are on a worm screw that's how they self-adjust, all you need is the brake piston tool that screws it back in then the self adjusting parking brake is reset.

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[LarJames]

Managed to get the old rotor off without removing the carriers. The allen bolt is stuck pretty good. Going to have to douse it with penetrant and maybe a few whacks with a hammer. Also pleased to see there is no room to fit a tool in to get to the lower carrier bolt. I've read that if you can get the upper one out you can rotate the carrier out of the way and get a new rotor in. I'm quite confused on why Audi would choose to put an 8mm thats prone to stripping in a spot thats so prone to rusting. Added to the fact I'd need to remove the shock bolt to even get to the lower bolt.

Anyways, after tearing the whole thing apart, I had to put it back together without replacing the pads/rotors until I have more time to soak the bolt in PB blaster.

Lots of fun!

[eljay]

My advice is to use a bolt extractor wrench and replace the bolt upon reinstallation with a new one. If you want you still reinstall old bolt with an allen key because using this methid you are only scraping the ouside of it anyway.

See my steps here:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?p=11748005

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Managed to get the old rotor off without removing the carriers.

How did you possibly do this?

[imnuts]

How did you possibly do this?

Larger rotors will come off without removing the carrier. On my 3.0, I was able to change the rotors without removing the carrier, they just slid out and the new ones went in. I think if you have the small rears on the 1.8, you need to move the carrier, but the larger 1.8T brakes that were on some cars you don't.

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[Pothole]

I got some low profile allen bits and hammered it into the socket head so it wouldn't strip. Still screwed up one bolt before I realized it was an allen and not a torx.

https://www.amazon.com/Short-Tools-1...ords=short+8mm

[LarJames]

Hey eljay, I read your post and put a sale alert on this wrench set (I live in Guelph ON so I feel your pain with finding tools in Canada sometimes). These things look like they will do the job nicely. And I don't need to ruin the bolt. I think I have essentially the same car as you so I'm sure you feel my pain.

Thanks for the tip!

Larry

[LarJames]

I watched a Youtube tutorial and saw a fellow do it. Since me rotors are fairly worn, there is enough room on the hub to rotate the rotor most of the way off and you can tap it out with a rubber mallet (mine just came out with some wiggling). Hard part arrived when I tried to put the new one on. Since it was full thickness it wouldn't go in. Its possible if I gave it a few good whacks with the hammer it would, but it will also likely scratch the heck out of the rotor on the edges of the calliper carrier. After getting shut down, and the light failing me, I was able to get the old rotor back on and the whole brake assembly back together and head inside in defeat.

eljay seems to have pulled through with this bolt extracting wrench from CT. Apparently if I can get the top carrier bolt out I can pivot the carrier just enough to get the new rotor in (ideal since there is almost NO room to access the lower bolt due to the close proximity of the shock).

[Axis]

If not seized, these work perfectly for the lower bolt:



I replaced the ones on my B7 to regular 15mm bolts. On the B6 I put back new oem dipped in anti-seize.

[Luxus Panzer]

Hey eljay, I read your post and put a sale alert on this wrench set
Larry

How? I would like to do the same.

[eljay]

I watched a Youtube tutorial and saw a fellow do it. Since me rotors are fairly worn, there is enough room on the hub to rotate the rotor most of the way off and you can tap it out with a rubber mallet (mine just came out with some wiggling). Hard part arrived when I tried to put the new one on. Since it was full thickness it wouldn't go in. Its possible if I gave it a few good whacks with the hammer it would, but it will also likely scratch the heck out of the rotor on the edges of the calliper carrier. After getting shut down, and the light failing me, I was able to get the old rotor back on and the whole brake assembly back together and head inside in defeat.

eljay seems to have pulled through with this bolt extracting wrench from CT. Apparently if I can get the top carrier bolt out I can pivot the carrier just enough to get the new rotor in (ideal since there is almost NO room to access the lower bolt due to the close proximity of the shock).

Just like you, I was able to slide out the rotors without removing the carrier.

Give that wrench a try. It fits in the space without undoing the shock bolt. Press it onto the bolt with a c-clamp and give it a whack.

[rocket1420]

I watched a Youtube tutorial and saw a fellow do it. Since me rotors are fairly worn, there is enough room on the hub to rotate the rotor most of the way off and you can tap it out with a rubber mallet (mine just came out with some wiggling). Hard part arrived when I tried to put the new one on. Since it was full thickness it wouldn't go in. Its possible if I gave it a few good whacks with the hammer it would, but it will also likely scratch the heck out of the rotor on the edges of the calliper carrier. After getting shut down, and the light failing me, I was able to get the old rotor back on and the whole brake assembly back together and head inside in defeat.

eljay seems to have pulled through with this bolt extracting wrench from CT. Apparently if I can get the top carrier bolt out I can pivot the carrier just enough to get the new rotor in (ideal since there is almost NO room to access the lower bolt due to the close proximity of the shock).

Just undo the shock. It's not that much work.

[LarJames]

Just undo the shock. It's not that much work.

Shock bolt is quite rusty. Like REALLY looking rusty. If I need these wrenches to get the bolts out anyways then I'll do that. And apparently you don't need to take the lower one off, the carrier will pivot enough to slide in the new rotor (you only need a few mm). So I figured why screw around with the shock bolt AND the lower carrier if I don't need to.

[LarJames]

How? I would like to do the same.

If you go to the Canadian tire website you have to login/make an account and three days before any product you put in your watch list goes on sale you will get an email. I've used it for oil in the past since I use mobile one and I can save like $25 on a big jug if I wait for a sale.

[LarJames]

If not seized, these work perfectly for the lower bolt:



I replaced the ones on my B7 to regular 15mm bolts. On the B6 I put back new oem dipped in anti-seize.

I'm not sure if I'd be able to get in there with something that long. Are they meant to be cut to size? Seems like alot of torque on a long wrench. Recipe for snapping unless I'm missing something. I've ordered new bolts from the VW dealer in my town for like $2 each so I'll just replace them. Thanks for the tip!

[Gin+]

When I attempted to remove the carriers to upgrade the rears I ended up cutting them off with a cut off tool (die grinder) and got replacement bolts. Brutal.

[LarJames]

When I attempted to remove the carriers to upgrade the rears I ended up cutting them off with a cut off tool (die grinder) and got replacement bolts. Brutal.

I am trying quite hard to avoid this hahah

[rocket1420]

I am trying quite hard to avoid this hahah

I forgot about rust down here in Florida.

[Axis]

I'm not sure if I'd be able to get in there with something that long. Are they meant to be cut to size? Seems like alot of torque on a long wrench. Recipe for snapping unless I'm missing something. I've ordered new bolts from the VW dealer in my town for like $2 each so I'll just replace them. Thanks for the tip!

The idea is to use something long and insert with an angle from under, hence why they're ball end hex bits. Works well but not on the salt belt seized bolts.

I use this method now but I originaly had to cut the bolts (carrier too since I was upgrading the B7 A4) in order to remove them, I put back new ones filled with anti-seize. (I'm in the salt belt)

As mentionned earlier, I found matching bolts with 15mm heads for my B7. Never have issues removing them.

[Luxus Panzer]

If you go to the Canadian tire website you have to login/make an account and three days before any product you put in your watch list goes on sale you will get an email. I've used it for oil in the past since I use mobile one and I can save like $25 on a big jug if I wait for a sale.

Merci mon ami

[IndoB6]

You do not need to remove the lower carrier bolt, just the upper then lightly tap the top of the carrier with a 2-3 lb hammer slightly and the rotors will move in and out.

I would not use the ball end sockets on this type of bolt as if it strips your in trouble.
I used a Mac tools 8mm stubby 1/2 socket and it works

blow the bolt head out with compressed air if you have it if not use a pick.

get a MAP gas torch and heat the area around the bolt up fairly well, make sure to protect the boot of the axle and the abs sensor.

then hammer your 8mm in a bit and crack it free pray before lol

If you want to use my 8mm socket i have for it or want help even with it, im only in orangeville not a far trip from guelph.
i don't mind spending a few hours helping you do it and gain a b6 contact.

good luck

-Mike

[alimo20]

When I did this I used the Irwin bolt extractors. They worked like a charm on the first go. Replaced the bolt naturally. As said, only removed one and moved the carrier out of the way slightly. Highly recommend these extractors:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000CCXVZ

[LarJames]

You do not need to remove the lower carrier bolt, just the upper then lightly tap the top of the carrier with a 2-3 lb hammer slightly and the rotors will move in and out.

I would not use the ball end sockets on this type of bolt as if it strips your in trouble.
I used a Mac tools 8mm stubby 1/2 socket and it works

blow the bolt head out with compressed air if you have it if not use a pick.

get a MAP gas torch and heat the area around the bolt up fairly well, make sure to protect the boot of the axle and the abs sensor.

then hammer your 8mm in a bit and crack it free pray before lol

If you want to use my 8mm socket i have for it or want help even with it, im only in orangeville not a far trip from guelph.
i don't mind spending a few hours helping you do it and gain a b6 contact.

good luck

-Mike

Hi Mike thanks for the offer! When I get the chance I may end up heading to brantford to do the brake job since my buddy has impact tools, these extractor wrenches, and a garage :). Thanks for the advice, I'm hoping if I take the dust shield, hose the bolts with PB blaster on both sides and bang them with a mallet for a bit to loosen them up . Ill give you a shout if I want to take a little drive up to Orangeville.

Larry

[IndoReef]

Hi Mike thanks for the offer! When I get the chance I may end up heading to brantford to do the brake job since my buddy has impact tools, these extractor wrenches, and a garage :). Thanks for the advice, I'm hoping if I take the dust shield, hose the bolts with PB blaster on both sides and bang them with a mallet for a bit to loosen them up . Ill give you a shout if I want to take a little drive up to Orangeville.

Larry

No Problem!

make a trip to canadian tire and get a bottle of MAP gas and a torch head for it, you can get them for like $20-$30 bucks
heat the caliper carrier and the Hub/Knuckle while protecting the boots. HEAT is your best friend in this situation and in most.

And this is my actually account it was just recovered, if your a bit confused lol

Good luck!
-Mike

[LarJames]

Just like you, I was able to slide out the rotors without removing the carrier.

Give that wrench a try. It fits in the space without undoing the shock bolt. Press it onto the bolt with a c-clamp and give it a whack.

Hey eljay, just wanted to say thanks for the tip regarding those ratcheting wrench bolt extractors. Pressed them on there with a c-clamp and a few whacks with the mallet later and they popped loose. I was also able to pivot them out of the way with a few taps as well. Replaced the upper bolts with new ones so I'm good to go! Thanks again!

[BARRY]

i replaced my pads and rotors and forgot to release the auto tensioner for the hand brake. my driver's side rear pads literally smoked up a storm while driving. make sure you release that as well.