Q5 chip stage 3.0T

[Goned]

Hi here,

I am looking for maybe install a tune stage 1 for my Q5 3.0T.

Which brand you advice ?

- APR ?
- Unitronic ?
- Revo ?
- GIAC ?
- ....

I would like a tune with connect system to put myselft STOCK if i have to go to the dealer for warranty.

Thanks for your reply

Bye

[One Nice Audi]

Epl.

[Goned]

Epl.

Thanks but EPL dealer is available in Canada ? And what is specific stage 1 power gains ?

[One Nice Audi]

I'm sure they're available worldwide. Just search up.

[itiongo]

All the tunes are almost identical. The gains for stage one should push your car to around 400hp 370tq. Every car is different. EPL is the cheapest, and best bang for your money if u want to return your tune to stock while flashing at home.

[q5 dave]

EPL or GIAC

[Goned]

Unitronic stage 1 is 390hp
APR stage 1 is 425hp

So is not almost identical....

[riceboy22]

If you have to have the ability to flash back to stock at home, I believe that eliminates APR and GIAC as options. It's not a big deal for me personally as dealer trips are rare. EPL and Unitronic offer that option though.

From purely a performance standpoint, there's honestly not enough difference between any of them in real world use for anyone to make a real argument that one or the other is better.

[poncho@home]

Unitronic in Canada, don't know what they charge in the US, is the cheapest tune for the 3.0T at $1100 CDN ($815 USD)

Not saying its the best tune, but strictly financially, it is the cheapest. I know in the past EPL offered there tune discounted for Black Friday at $699. That was a good deal!

I am also looking at the different tune options, but my Q5 is mainly my wife's driver and our weekend family hauler, so I don't know if its worth it to me to spend that kind of money on a tune for it. Maybe after tax season (May 1 in Canada), if my wallet isn't too hurt, I'll consider it more seriously.

[Goned]

Unitronic in Canada, don't know what they charge in the US, is the cheapest tune for the 3.0T at $1100 CDN ($815 USD)

Not saying its the best tune, but strictly financially, it is the cheapest. I know in the past EPL offered there tune discounted for Black Friday at $699. That was a good deal!

I am also looking at the different tune options, but my Q5 is mainly my wife's driver and our weekend family hauler, so I don't know if its worth it to me to spend that kind of money on a tune for it. Maybe after tax season (May 1 in Canada), if my wallet isn't too hurt, I'll consider it more seriously.

Yes after tax season too :D lol I think to go with Unitronic with Uniconnect.

[Jay007]

Given that your looking to be able to go back to stock and not void warranty, Chipwerke is also a good option.

Other 3.0T Q5’s have reported test results of a full second off 0-60 times and two seconds off 0-100.

50-60 WHP gains over stock puts it into the 400-410 range crank and it’s the cheapest of all options at around $500 CDN.

I currently have one on my S4 and I’m happy with the performance of it over about 2 months of use. I’ve yet to try it on my Q5 but think the gains would be even more drastic on the Q5 (due to the higher level of engine de-tuning in stock form in the Q5).

The downside with it is its less flexible for further modifications down the road as its essentially just a piggyback / old school chip, not a tune like the others mentioned here.

[turbojayc]

Yes after tax season too :D lol I think to go with Unitronic with Uniconnect.

I have Unitronic Stage 2+. Simply put; BADASS!

[Goned]

Given that your looking to be able to go back to stock and not void warranty, Chipwerke is also a good option.

Other 3.0T Q5’s have reported test results of a full second off 0-60 times and two seconds off 0-100.

50-60 WHP gains over stock puts it into the 400-410 range crank and it’s the cheapest of all options at around $500 CDN.

I currently have one on my S4 and I’m happy with the performance of it over about 2 months of use. I’ve yet to try it on my Q5 but think the gains would be even more drastic on the Q5 (due to the higher level of engine de-tuning in stock form in the Q5).

The downside with it is its less flexible for further modifications down the road as its essentially just a piggyback / old school chip, not a tune like the others mentioned here.

I'm not interest by piggyback, because the gain is too low.

I need more than 350 hp, i think tune is the best choice with possibility to restore the stock tune.

I have Unitronic Stage 2+. Simply put; BADASS!

For the first want only stage 1, because i don't have 93 octane :( just 91 octane....so stage 1 is the best choice,

The stage 1+ and 2 is better with 93

[poncho@home]

FWIW, I had a Chipwerke on my Q5 last summer. It dropped my 1/4 mile ETs from 14.2 - 13.7 same day at the track and further lower a couple of weeks later to 13.3 at a different track. I was very pleased with the performance and had zero issues with it while I ran it. In hindsight I might have sold it too soon, but I got all my money back from it, so I was pleased.

[PreciseD]

No matter what tune you get it will void your warranty and get your TD1 flagged... Just keep that in mind..

[Tony@EPL]

No matter what tune you get it will void your warranty and get your TD1 flagged... Just keep that in mind..

If the car is not returned to stock before taking it to the dealer....

Also TD1 doesn't automatically = Voided Warranty. It simply means tuning has been performed and will be taken in to consideration when a warranty claim is filed.

[Tony@EPL]

Hi here,

I am looking for maybe install a tune stage 1 for my Q5 3.0T.

Which brand you advice ?

- APR ?
- Unitronic ?
- Revo ?
- GIAC ?
- ....

I would like a tune with connect system to put myselft STOCK if i have to go to the dealer for warranty.

Thanks for your reply

Bye

Let us know how we can help!!

[riceboy22]

If the car is not returned to stock before taking it to the dealer....

Also TD1 doesn't automatically = Voided Warranty. It simply means tuning has been performed and will be taken in to consideration when a warranty claim is filed.

+1

I was in the process of writing that I think the majority of tuned cars out there have not been flagged TD1 (at least based on anecdotal evidence). There are only a handful of threads I've read where people were flagged TD1 and couldn't figure out why.

[PreciseD]

If the car is not returned to stock before taking it to the dealer....

Also TD1 doesn't automatically = Voided Warranty. It simply means tuning has been performed and will be taken in to consideration when a warranty claim is filed.

So does your "stock" flash reset flash counter and checksum? Is it detectable at the dealer like the APR one is (even though they said it wasn't)?

[Tony@EPL]

So does your "stock" flash reset flash counter and checksum? Is it detectable at the dealer like the APR one is (even though they said it wasn't)?

Currently the flash counter is NOT tied to TD1 and yes the checksum will match.... its an actual OEM file.

[azndrunk74]

Go with EPL. They know their shi* and don't fool around when it comes to matching your stock OEM file.

[ThunderDent]

So what are the hp and torque numbers for EPL Stage I?

[One Nice Audi]

Number varies.

[xpocky24]

APR, GIAC and EPL seem to be the most popular. Pick any one of those FTW.

[ThunderDent]

Number varies.

Don't they have a Dyno like other tuners?

That says (Stage 1, 93 octane, exhaust, intake)
Here are your HP and torque gains.

Everyone else has one.
Honestly I'd love to pull the trigger on this if I could flash at home and convert back.
But it's not worth it if it only gives me 380hp vs my stock SQ. If it gets me 425HP, then I'd do it.
But I have to know ahead of time. I'm not running logs and doing dynos to find out. I want to know before I buy.

I had APR on my last Q, but it was a hassle as the closest place was 3 hrs away.
I want convenience at home. But I don't want something I have to test.

APR shows 93 octane
Stage 1: 449hp, 388 ft-lb torque.

Tell me what you have EPL so I can decide.

[riceboy22]

I'm sure someone from EPL will chime in, but they do have a dyno but don't publish official advertised numbers based on it from what I've seen. I'm assuming it has to do with the fact that there are so many variables in play with the car, the dyno, and the conditions. If you take a look at the S4/S5 1/4 mile database AR though you'll see their cars are right in the mix, so it's safe to say the power numbers will be in line with APR and GIAC.

EPL will also customize their tunes based on your logging. I won't get into the debate on that again, but I'll just say that for some people that's great and for others it's too leading edge.

[buggravy]

In an effort to resist temptation I haven't followed the tuning discussions all that closely, but my overriding impression is that EPL is providing the best solution for undetectability. Not referring to the flash at home convenience, but the actual ability to appear stock to the mother ship. Is that impression pretty accurate, or is everyone pretty much in the same boat?

[Chris@EPL]

Well every dyno is different and most other companies quote crank HP and that all depends on what conversion factors they use. Most B8/B8.5 S4s on our in house low reading Mustang Dyno make about 270-280whp and stage 1 93 is about 345whp and stage 2 93 is about 375whp with SQ5s being a little higher as well. Stage 1 adds a solid 75-90whp. Right now we have a couple Q5/SQ5 stage 1 and stage 2 tunes available at a price too low to advertise. PM if interested, not sure how long these will last.

[Tony@EPL]

Don't they have a Dyno like other tuners?

That says (Stage 1, 93 octane, exhaust, intake)
Here are your HP and torque gains.

Everyone else has one.
Honestly I'd love to pull the trigger on this if I could flash at home and convert back.
But it's not worth it if it only gives me 380hp vs my stock SQ. If it gets me 425HP, then I'd do it.
But I have to know ahead of time. I'm not running logs and doing dynos to find out. I want to know before I buy.

I had APR on my last Q, but it was a hassle as the closest place was 3 hrs away.
I want convenience at home. But I don't want something I have to test.

APR shows 93 octane
Stage 1: 449hp, 388 ft-lb torque.

Tell me what you have EPL so I can decide.

Of course we have a dyno... but for the most part we view it as a TUNING TOOL only and not a MARKETING MACHINE. You will occasional see us post a dyno sheet, but generally speaking they shouldn't be used for a sole basis to buy a tune...

At this stage in the game power figures (especially those posted in crank hp #'s) are purely for marketing purposes only. Most/all tuners mentioned in here are most likely with in a handful of HP"s of one another at the stage 1 power level and their advertised power can vary by 10-20 hps. Chris posted above some general wheel hp results and even these can vary greatly based on car condition, other modification and even atmospheric conditions.

I urge people to buy tunes based on customer reviews, features and just over all fitness for your needs. (For example you mentioned 3 hour drives to get flashed... are you willing to do 6 hours round trip if you have to go back to stock? If not EPL seems like an easy choice).

Don't also forget to fully review current offering and future upgrades (think e85, dual pulley, water injection support, etc).

[riceboy22]

In an effort to resist temptation I haven't followed the tuning discussions all that closely, but my overriding impression is that EPL is providing the best solution for undetectability. Not referring to the flash at home convenience, but the actual ability to appear stock to the mother ship. Is that impression pretty accurate, or is everyone pretty much in the same boat?

They're all pretty much the same. They all restore your exact original stock file down to the box code and version. I suspect some of the people have gotten flagged after flashing back to stock may not have gotten the correct version flashed back, but that's pure speculation on my part and shouldn't happen if everything is done correctly. FWIW, APR also resets your flash counter. EPL doesn't, but as Tony mentioned above, it's not currently part of what the system check for TD1 looks for. Your service advisor can see that information though.

If you're serious about tuning, the best thing I can advise is to make sure you have a good relationship with your service department.

[ThunderDent]

Well every dyno is different and most other companies quote crank HP and that all depends on what conversion factors they use. Most B8/B8.5 S4s on our in house low reading Mustang Dyno make about 270-280whp and stage 1 93 is about 345whp and stage 2 93 is about 375whp with SQ5s being a little higher as well. Stage 1 adds a solid 75-90whp. Right now we have a couple Q5/SQ5 stage 1 and stage 2 tunes available at a price too low to advertise. PM if interested, not sure how long these will last.

PM in your inbox.

[Tony@EPL]

They're all pretty much the same. They all restore your exact original stock file down to the box code and version. I suspect some of the people have gotten flagged after flashing back to stock may not have gotten the correct version flashed back, but that's pure speculation on my part and shouldn't happen if everything is done correctly. FWIW, APR also resets your flash counter. EPL doesn't, but as Tony mentioned above, it's not currently part of what the system check for TD1 looks for. Your service advisor can see that information though.

If you're serious about tuning, the best thing I can advise is to make sure you have a good relationship with your service department.

I would be willing to bet that 99% of service advisers would give you a blank stare when asked how to check the number of times an ECU has been flashed. Service doesn't look into these things that deeply, they just dont. Audi service WANT your warranty work, it generates them nearly as much revenue as a customer paid invoice and keep you happy.... which will sell more cars and service in the long run.

[riceboy22]

I would be willing to bet that 99% of service advisers would give you a blank stare when asked how to check the number of times an ECU has been flashed. Service doesn't look into these things that deeply, they just dont. Audi service WANT your warranty work, it generates them nearly as much revenue as a customer paid invoice and keep you happy.... which will sell more cars and service in the long run.

I can't disagree with that for most service departments, but is there a reason you guys don't just go ahead and reset it? It is something they can see in ELSA, and there are certainly service departments that do give tuned cars a hard time.

[ThunderDent]

Thanks Chris for working with me.

Just went Stage 1!

I'll install it after my service next Friday.

[buggravy]

If you're serious about tuning, the best thing I can advise is to make sure you have a good relationship with your service department.

I'm really on the fence right now. I want it badly, and would only go Stage 1 for now, but am pretty adverse to exposure. I have virtually no relationship with my service department. I'm actually not even sure who MY service department is going to be. Tons of local dealers, but the dealer I bought my car from isn't convenient to me, and their service department isn't particularly well thought of. The dealer that is 5 minutes from me gets probably the worst reviews around, and from the one dealing I've had with them I'm inclined to think they would give me shit. Dealer we bought my wife's car from seems pretty solid, but again, no established relationship. I'm also in a leased car, at only 8K miles right now. Not sure what the ramifications would be of a TD1 at lease turn in, but common sense is probably a good indicator. Having to buy at the end of the lease wouldn't be the end of the world, but I don't like having my hand forced. Sorry for the stream of conscious ramblings.

[riceboy22]

I'm really on the fence right now. I want it badly, and would only go Stage 1 for now, but am pretty adverse to exposure. I have virtually no relationship with my service department. I'm actually not even sure who MY service department is going to be. Tons of local dealers, but the dealer I bought my car from isn't convenient to me, and their service department isn't particularly well thought of. The dealer that is 5 minutes from me gets probably the worst reviews around, and from the one dealing I've had with them I'm inclined to think they would give me shit. Dealer we bought my wife's car from seems pretty solid, but again, no established relationship. I'm also in a leased car, at only 8K miles right now. Not sure what the ramifications would be of a TD1 at lease turn in, but common sense is probably a good indicator. Having to buy at the end of the lease wouldn't be the end of the world, but I don't like having my hand forced. Sorry for the stream of conscious ramblings.

I would just avoid tuned cars like the plague if I were you!

It's not a deal breaker if you don't find a tuner-friendly service department, but it is nice to know they will do whatever they can to help you avoid TD1. For example, my service department makes sure that the tech doesn't hook up the car for diagnostics when I'm just in for general work. If I do need work that requires the car to be hooked up, then I flash back to stock before the appointment. I would just ask the service department point blank what their position on it is. TBH, they probably already assume you're tuned just based on the wheels and suspension and other mods LOL.

As far as TD1 goes, there's a lot of sometimes conflicting info out there, but I honestly don't think dealers care on turn-in. I've read a couple of threads that indicate the TD1 flag gets removed when they flash you back to stock and run diagnostics again. One thread said the dealer actually offered to do it for a fee.

[ThunderDent]

My tech told me, the good thing about tunes or VCDS mods is if I fuck something up, all I have to do it take it back to him and he'll just flash it back complete stock.

[poncho@home]

This damn thread!!!!

I just ordered EPL Stage 1 tune.....

shhhh....the wife can't know ;)

[buggravy]

I would just avoid tuned cars like the plague if I were you!

That's basically the conclusion I keep coming to myself anytime I consider a tune, just with a little less conviction each time. My resolve is weakening.

[ThunderDent]

You can't get much worse off than my gun-shy from previous tune issues, to back on board...

But yeah, this thread and board are bad for all of us.
Never say never on being done with mods.

Hell, I've even been thinking about an RS grille. But prob won't.