How to - Timing Chains/Guides/Tensioner replacement
Just as FYI, I had to remove the valve cover due to a leaky valve cover gasket. If you have a good seal and are just replacing the chains, ignore the valve cover portion of this job - you do not need to remove it. If you're not replacing the valve cover gasket, skip steps 2-3, 5, 14, and 16-18
Tools you will need:
10mm wrench or socket - For removing vacuum pump. Only if replacing valve cover gasket
Torx set - T27, T30, etc. for getting into service position, tensioner bolts, valve cover and timing cover bolts.
1-1/16" socket - for removing lower timing chain tensioner. Could be metric, I don't know. I took my new one to home depot and this was the only socket to fit and it fit perfectly.
10mm 12 point triple square bit - for removing the high pressure fuel pump. I use this style with a 13mm socket because the other style bits I have are too tight. Only if replacing valve cover gasket
12 point triple square socket - for removing timing guides. I have this kit:
Intake Cam valve removal tool - T10352 - This is to remove the valve inside of the intake cam to remove the bracket covering the timing gears. I didn't use this - I didn't have one and didn't know I needed it going into the job. I used an old brake tool that I had on hand and it worked fine.
Parts that I bought:
Basic Timing Chain Kit ES#3194414 - This kit had my guides and chains. Note though that one of the guides was defective and didn't line up with the bolt holes. I have emailed ECS about it. Borsenhung part # 06H109469AQ.
Upper timing cover gasket.
Front crank seal.
Vacuum pump gasket - I didn't replace this, but I am going to. It has a slight leak. I used copper rtv spray and reused the existing gasket but it isn't holding up well. I have always reused steel gaskets with good luck, but it didn't hold up this time.Only if replacing valve cover gasket
I do not replace valve cover or timing cover bolts even though I read they are TTY. I am not trying to stir up debate, but a tty bolt with an 8 or so ft/lb torque spec is not enough to deform the bolt. Inspecting the bolt I can see that it is was not deformed so I reused them. If it makes you more comfortable, you can replace them with new bolts.
Now to start, get the car into service position. I didn't get any pictures of how you do this, but it's pretty straight forward. Here is a link to a guy who shows how to get the bumper off in great detail: http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads...-guide.209727/.
Once you have the bumper off, you simply disconnect the headlights, fog lights, horns, intercooler hoses, trans lines, coolant hoses (upper and lower), remove the two torx bolts holding the clip to the black square tubes that go into the front clip, and finally use a 16mm socket with an extension to take out the 6 bolts (3 per side) holding the front clip on. Pretty sure that's all you need to move the front clip out of the way.
Step 1 - Set the crank to TDC by lining up the marks on the pulley with the timing cover. This will make it a little easier to set the timing later. It's a little tough to see in this picture, but there's a little triangle cut out in the pulley, and an arrow on the timing cover. My pulley also had some white paint at 12 o'clock that lines up with the 12 o'clock arrow on the timing cover.
Step 2 - Remove high pressure fuel pump by disconnecting the electrical connector, removing rubber hose, and disconnecting hard fuel line at the bottom. I used a small adjustable wrench for this fastener.
Step 3 - Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the vacuum pump on. Mine stripped, so I have different bolts in this picture. Once you remove the 3 bolts, you'll need to finaggle it out and then use a flat-head screw driver to press the sides in on the vacuump pump port clip. Just press each side in and give it a slight twist and you'll see it pop forward. Once you disconnect this, the pump can be removed from the vehicle.
As a side note, I had some bolts stripped. I ended up installing a heli-coil for a 5/16" bolt. This information is here for my records and as info for the next owner should I sell this car. They can reference this page to see what was done to the car. I bought an angle drill and hammered a 21/64 bit in half to fit into the tight clearance. Once I drilled it out, I was able to easily tap and install a heli-coil. I also used a 5/16 bit to drill the hole out in the vacuum pump to take the bigger bolt.
Step 4 - Disconnect the cam sensor connector and remove the 3 torx bolts holding on the cam sensor and remove it. Remove the bolts holding on the dipstick tube and remove it. Remove the front crank pulley. This is easiest with an impact so that the engine doesn't turn. Now remove the torx bolt holding on the pulley that is blocking you from being able to remove the timing cover. You can now disconnect the upper timing cover and front timing cover.
You should now have the front of the engine completely exposed.
Step 5 - You can now remove the valve cover. Start by disconnecting all the connectors. Remove the coils and PCV valve. This is self explanatory I think, so just ensure that you disconnect anything that is keeping the valve cover on. You should now be able to see your valvetrain. I read something about a cam hold-down, but I didn't use one. I don't think it's necessary.
Step 6 - Remove the bolts holding the cam bracket, and remove the triple square bolt in the exhaust cam. Finally, for the valve in the intake cam you will use the cam removal tool here. If you don't have one, you can use the tool picture below in a pinch, it works fine. It's a caliper tool I had on hand. Note this valve is reverse thread - be sure that you wrench it to the right to remove it.
At this point, you are ready to get to work and start replacing all of your components. Be sure to put the crank pulley bolt into the gear to hold it in place while you perform your repairs.
Step 7 - Remove the tensioner on the oil pump chain. This chain I do not believe can be removed without removing the upper oil pan. I personally just reused this chain. The guide has a torsion spring on it. Just pull it toward the chain and get it out of the way. It is hard to describe, but easy to remove. Once that tensioner is off, you can take the chain off and set it to the side. Remove all the guides and chains and take out the lower chain tensioner using your 1-1/16th socket.
It's important to note that the balance shaft on the left may move a little bit. Don't worry about it - you can easily set this right later by using the colored links on your new chains.
Now that everything is out of the way, you can start to clean up your old gasket material. For the valve cover, it seems like Audi used gorilla glue. It's a pain in the ass to remove. Use your gasket scraper, razor blade, etc. to get it all cleaned up. I scraped it all out as best I could. I also took a sanding wheel to it to smooth it out and get rid of some of the harder to reach stuff. Just be sure to cover everything with towels. Once you're finished cleaning everything up, pull the towels out so that the material goes outside of the engine.
Step 8 - Clean the timing cover and valve cover. There is an etched line in the valve cover to see where gasket maker needs to go. Ensure that you clean everything out of here.
Everything you're going to remove should be removed at this point, and the timing cover and valve cover should be clean. Now you can replace all of your timing components.
Your engine should be set to TDC, or pretty damn close. There are marks on everything to help you set your timing easily. There are also colored links on the chain to make it easy to set the timing.
Step 9 - Install lower timing chain and ensure that the marks on the gears line up with the links on the chain. If the balance shafts are out of time, spin them into time by hand. Ensure that both gears on the right balance shaft are lined up properly.
Right balance shaft alignment. Note the dots lining up.
Colored link on chain lined up with arrow on gear.
It should look something like this. Each blue link on the chain should be lined up with an arrow on the crank gear, and with the punched indent on the balance shaft gears:
Here is the lower timing chain, guides and tensioner installed and finished:
Step 10 - You can now install the upper timing chain. It is the same as the earlier chain with regard to the marks on the gears. Ensure that the colored link is lined up on the crank gear:
Ensure that the marks on the cam gears are aligned with the colored links on the chain:
Step 11 - Now slide the guides in on each side of the chain and bolt them down. You can now install the upper tensioner with the two torx bolts. Once you're confident everything is timed properly, go ahead and pull the on on the tensioner and it will put tension on the guides and chain.
Step 12 - Install the bracket that goes onto the cams. Be sure that when putting in the intake cam valve that you turn it to the left to tighten it - it is reverse threaded.
You're done at this point pretty much.
Step 13 - Install lower timing cover. I used black RTV for this job because it came in a tube and was easy to use. Once the timing cover is on, install your new crank seal by using a couple of large washers and the crank bolt to wrench it in.
Old picture from when I replaced this seal a couple years ago to illustrate how I install the crank seal.
Step 14 - Install valve cover. The torque sequence for this is hard to find. I did it in a similar fashion to previous models working from the inside out. I also used a 13nm torque spec. Best I could find online for most styles was 13nm, or roughly 10 ft lbs.
Step 15 - Install upper timing cover with your new gasket and install the dipstick tube and everything else on the front of the engine.
Step 16 - Install PCV valve and insert coils. Plug everything back into the valve cover.
Step 17 - Install vacuum pump and ensure that the key-way in the pump is properly lined up with the key-way in the camshaft. If it doesn't go on easily and sit flush with the head, it is misaligned. You can simply pull the vacuum pump out and rotate it by hand to line it up properly. Don't forget to plug in the vacuum port that goes to the brake booster. I reused the gaskets, which I would not recommend as i have a slight leak. I coated each gasket with copper RTV prior to install, too.
Step 18 - Install high pressure fuel pump. Connect the fuel lines and plug it back in.
Step 19 - Put the front of the car back on and plug in your coolant hoses, trans lines, and intercooler piping. Fill the car with fresh fluids.
You're done. Start the car up and enjoy the ride. I was shocked at how much quieter, stronger and smoother the car is. It feels much tighter than it did in the past. I did this job at 130k miles and I'm pretty sure that my chains had a lot of slack in them and were the cause of a lot of the noise in my engine.
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Originally Posted by pierreb
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