Your OEM Pump (New)
Autotech HPFP Upgrade: http://www.autotech.com/mm5/merchant...de=10-127-101K
Optional:
Autotech HPFP Upgrade: http://www.autotech.com/mm5/merchant...de=10-127-101K
Optional:
Tools:
VCDS
Socket wrench
10mm Socket
M8 Triple Square Bit
Crescent wrench
Some rags
Bench vise
90 deg bent nose pliers and the strength of the gods
OR
screwdriver and a hammer
Socket wrench
10mm Socket
M8 Triple Square Bit
Crescent wrench
Some rags
Bench vise
90 deg bent nose pliers and the strength of the gods
OR
screwdriver and a hammer
Pump overview:
Code:
1. Low Fuel Pressure Sensor -G410- 15 Nm 2. Seal Replace 3. Bolt Tighten by hand in a diagonal sequence and then tighten to 5 Nm Final tightening specification: 20 Nm Do not tilt the high pressure Pump 4. High Pressure Pump With fuel metering valve -N290- Removing and installing, refer to HIGH PRESSURE Pump Do not disassemble 5. Threaded Connection 27 Nm Connectors should not show any signs of damage 6. Fuel Supply Hose Low pressure side 7. High Pressure Fuel Line 27 Nm Reduce the fuel pressure in the high pressure area, refer to RELEASING PRESSURE IN HIGH PRESSURE AREA. Removing and installing, refer to HIGH PRESSURE LINE. 8. Gasket Replace 9. Housing 10. Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor -G40- Removing and installing, refer to Camshaft Position Sensor -G40- / Camshaft Position Sensor 2 -G163- 11. Bolt 9 Nm 12. O-ring Replace Lubricate O-rings with clean engine oil before installing 13. Protective Plate For high pressure line 14. Nut 9 Nm 15. Double Bolt 9 Nm 16. Roller Tappet Can be installed in one position only Lubricate O-rings with clean engine oil before installing 17. O-ring Replace Lubricate O-rings with clean engine oil before installing
1.
Start the car and remove the fuse for the fuel pump. It is located in the driver's side fuse box. It was bank 2 fuse 3(25A) on my 13 S4.
Let the car idle until it dies. Leave this fuse out until you are done. (Letting it die is optional, I'd pull the fuse regardless)
Let the car idle until it dies. Leave this fuse out until you are done. (Letting it die is optional, I'd pull the fuse regardless)
2.
Remove your intake, I'm not going to cover this step as everyone is slightly different. Here is what you should be left looking at:
The HPFP is located on the front passenger side of the engine:
The HPFP is located on the front passenger side of the engine:
3.
Using your 10mm ratchet remove the two bolts holding on the metal shielding. Remove this shielding and set it aside.
4.
Wrap the top of the fuel pump in a rag and using a crescent wrench remove the high-pressure line[5] from the pump. There will still be quite a bit of pressure in here so loosen the line then wait a few seconds before fully removing it.
5.
Remove the low-pressure line[2] by removing the hose clamp near the pump or by disconnecting it from the quick disconnect near the MAF sensor. (I have an ECA so your disconnects will be different)
6.
Undo the two electrical connections to the pump[1 & 6]. They are both located on the bottom. (You can do this after removing the pump if desired)
7.
Place a rag under the fuel pump to catch the cam follower and any extra fuel if it comes out.
Remove the two M8 triple square bolts holding the pump in. To remove the bottom one you will likely need an extension. [Arrows in the above pic]
Remove the two M8 triple square bolts holding the pump in. To remove the bottom one you will likely need an extension. [Arrows in the above pic]
8.
Remove the pump and cam follower. Both are keyed so don't worry about orientation.
New vs Old
Installing the autotech upgrade:
For reference here are Autotech's instructions: http://www.autotech.com/instructions/10127101k.pdf
Place the pump in a vise:
Remove the spring by pushing down on the spring rataining clip and sliding it off.
Removing the retaining ring can be a PITA. I used a hammer and punch to tap it off. Alternatively, Autotech has a tool to aid with this.(It has normal threading)
Once the ring is removed the internals should slide out.
Replace the piston with the Autotech upgraded one and reassemble the pump how you pulled it off.
The internals go like this:
Take note when tightening back down the retaining ring that it has a flat face (If you used a hammer).
Remove the spring by pushing down on the spring rataining clip and sliding it off.
Removing the retaining ring can be a PITA. I used a hammer and punch to tap it off. Alternatively, Autotech has a tool to aid with this.(It has normal threading)
Once the ring is removed the internals should slide out.
Replace the piston with the Autotech upgraded one and reassemble the pump how you pulled it off.
The internals go like this:
Take note when tightening back down the retaining ring that it has a flat face (If you used a hammer).
Reinstalling the pump:
Follow the pump removal steps in reverse order to reinstall the pump. (Torque specs are in the overview above)
After everything is installed and tightened down replace the fuel pump fuse you removed earlier.
Now unlock or open the driver's door to trigger the pump to auto-prime. (You should be able to hear it)
Do this a few time and make sure there are no leaks.
Now fire the car, and again make sure there are no leaks. You will likely have a CEL on, use VCDS to do a full scan, save the logs then clear all DTCs.
This will remove the CEL and reset the fuel trims.
Go take it for a short drive then park it and inspect for any leaks.
If you don't see or smell anything you should be good to go.
Depending on your tune you may get DTCs from time to time for fuel real pressure. This is normal
After everything is installed and tightened down replace the fuel pump fuse you removed earlier.
Now unlock or open the driver's door to trigger the pump to auto-prime. (You should be able to hear it)
Do this a few time and make sure there are no leaks.
Now fire the car, and again make sure there are no leaks. You will likely have a CEL on, use VCDS to do a full scan, save the logs then clear all DTCs.
This will remove the CEL and reset the fuel trims.
Go take it for a short drive then park it and inspect for any leaks.
If you don't see or smell anything you should be good to go.
Depending on your tune you may get DTCs from time to time for fuel real pressure. This is normal
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Originally Posted by rtl5009
. Is there a torque spec for this retaining ring?
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