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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings CoyneJ's Avatar
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    calipers sticking

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    I got my driver side front and passenger side rear caliper sticking, what could it be?

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Slide pin could be siezed.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings b6Hate4's Avatar
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    Let me shake the mystical Audizine magic 8 ball and figure this out...


    Kidding. No one can really diagnose this over the internet. Pull the caliper, if it has never been rebuilt/ replaced you're very likely overdue. Slidepins could be sized but not likely, you'll know immediately once you pull the brakes off though.
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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Murph_129's Avatar
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    I've made the mistake of buying remanned oem calipers from Autozone as I was in a pinch on money and time. Well they lasted about a month before the piston boot came loose, allowing the piston to be exposed to the elements. This caused some nasty corrosion and seized the caliper.

    I've since then bought new with no problems so far 👍

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  5. #5
    Active Member Two Rings kjames1270's Avatar
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    Where did you buy them new? I just installed a reman caliper on the rear passenger from autozone. But it is a oem Lucas just cleaned up.

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    I've used remand from advanced/napa and alike for years and no issues on any of my car.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Two Rings CoyneJ's Avatar
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    I already put new calipers on the rear with in 7k miles and the one on the front driver side is a newer one

  8. #8
    Active Member Two Rings kjames1270's Avatar
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    Could be bad boots? Shouldn't be happening after 7k

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  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Murph_129's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davdraco1 View Post
    I've used remand from advanced/napa and alike for years and no issues on any of my car.
    I would say you have been lucky to say the least.

    I replaced the driver front twice, and the passenger front once. Both had the exact same failure of the piston boot coming loose and allowing the piston to corrode, preventing it from withdrawing into the caliper.

    OP, I would do as others said, and take the quick 10 minutes to pop the caliper off. Once the car is jacked up and the wheel is off.. If the car isn't in gear, you SHOULD be able to spin the rotor by hand pretty easily. If not, you should check the slide pins and then the piston.
    -Murph
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  10. #10
    Senior Member Two Rings CoyneJ's Avatar
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    My front driver side is the only one giving me issues now, when I brake normally it's fine but when I brake hard it sticks and needs to be pryed back to stop draghing, could it be collapsed brake line?

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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoyneJ View Post
    My front driver side is the only one giving me issues now, when I brake normally it's fine but when I brake hard it sticks and needs to be pryed back to stop draghing, could it be collapsed brake line?

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    Nope. A calapsed line would mean you have no brakes at all. Most likely piston boot, I know I said slider pin but I was probably half awake then. If you do get reman's, paint them or they will have surface rust after the first rain storm. Trust me.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Murph_129's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davdraco1 View Post
    Nope. A calapsed line would mean you have no brakes at all. Most likely piston boot, I know I said slider pin but I was probably half awake then. If you do get reman's, paint them or they will have surface rust after the first rain storm. Trust me.
    Agreed. OP, I would get the ones I just purchased. I was wrong they ARE remanned, but done properly. (And coated with weather resistant coating)... They were on sale when I got them, but the look to be a bit more expensive now. But they come with mounting brackets, slide pins, anti rattle clips, and crush washers for the fluid line.

    A-1 CARDONE 19P1816 {#8E0615123A} Reman. CARDONE Ultra Premium Caliper w/Bracket & Installation Hardware Exclusive Weatherproof Coating
    A-1 CARDONE 19P1817 {#8E0615124A} Reman. CARDONE Ultra Premium Caliper w/Bracket & Installation Hardware Exclusive Weatherproof Coating

    http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/a...b,caliper,1704
    -Murph
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  13. #13
    Senior Member Two Rings CoyneJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davdraco1 View Post
    Nope. A calapsed line would mean you have no brakes at all. Most likely piston boot, I know I said slider pin but I was probably half awake then. If you do get reman's, paint them or they will have surface rust after the first rain storm. Trust me.
    A collapsed line would allow fluid to go to caliper but would not allow fluid to move back and make the caliper stick

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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings Murph_129's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoyneJ View Post
    A collapsed line would allow fluid to go to caliper but would not allow fluid to move back and make the caliper stick

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    Just pull the caliper off. You should be able to find the issue real quick. :)

    //Actually pulling it apart should give you much more information than us speculating over the internet.
    -Murph
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  15. #15
    Senior Member Two Rings CoyneJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murph_129 View Post
    Just pull the caliper off. You should be able to find the issue real quick. :)

    //Actually pulling it apart should give you much more information than us speculating over the internet.
    I already pulled it off and everything looked ok

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  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings Murph_129's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoyneJ View Post
    I already pulled it off and everything looked ok

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    Inspect the piston boot a little closer. Mine separated only slightly from its seat in the caliper. I pulled it the rest of the way back to discover the whole piston was covered in corrosion. If that's fine, then how does it feel? While it's detached, did you pump up the brakes (verify it engages the caliper fine), and then push it back in with a C clamp (make sure it goes back in with some ease).. This would rule out the piston and could possibly indicate pins.

    Also, the brake line is only a hose from the caliper to the wheel well I believe. From there it is all hard line.. So it shouldn't be hard to find a collapsed line.
    -Murph
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  17. #17
    Senior Member Two Rings CoyneJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murph_129 View Post
    Inspect the piston boot a little closer. Mine separated only slightly from its seat in the caliper. I pulled it the rest of the way back to discover the whole piston was covered in corrosion. If that's fine, then how does it feel? While it's detached, did you pump up the brakes (verify it engages the caliper fine), and then push it back in with a C clamp (make sure it goes back in with some ease).. This would rule out the piston and could possibly indicate pins.

    Also, the brake line is only a hose from the caliper to the wheel well I believe. From there it is all hard line.. So it shouldn't be hard to find a collapsed line.
    The problem is you cant see the line being collapsed since it has rubber on the outside

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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings Murph_129's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoyneJ View Post
    The problem is you cant see the line being collapsed since it has rubber on the outside

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    Then like I said. Do further testing to rule other possibilities out.

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    -Murph
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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    I've never heard of a brake line collapsing. They are nylon and rubber.

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
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    The caliper piston dust boot can also be damaged by careless or improper service techniques. For example when changing the pads, if the technician is using an incorrect tool to compress the piston (like winding it in with pliers), the boot can be ripped or punctured. This will lead to rust forming on the piston surface and will cause the caliper to stick on (drag). Or, if the caliper is removed and let to set on top of the rotor or suspension components, the dust boot can be torn. This technician-induced failure mode of the caliper is actually quite common.

    On the Audi rear calipers, sticking is commonly caused by the emergency brake mechanism where the pivot seal fails and causes corrosion in the mechanism. This causes the caliper to stick on (drag).
    Last edited by walky_talky20; 04-11-2017 at 10:11 AM.
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
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  21. #21
    Senior Member Two Rings CoyneJ's Avatar
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    So when I took a look at my rear brake that was dragging the parking brake wasn't fully retracted so I detached it and have no problems since and even my front caliper stopped getting sized after heavy breaking

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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings Murph_129's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoyneJ View Post
    So when I took a look at my rear brake that was dragging the parking brake wasn't fully retracted so I detached it and have no problems since and even my front caliper stopped getting sized after heavy breaking

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
    Hmm. Maybe Walkey can explain but that's odd that the front stopped seizing. Sorry I missed the part about a rear caliper sticking! First thing I would have recommended was the parking break sticking. Mine did the exact same thing. No fun having to beat the lever with a wrench to release it, in a parking lot, in below freezing weather lol.
    -Murph
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  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
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    Disconnecting (or never pulling) the handbrake lever will avoid the sticking due to corrosion/debris in the caliper's e-brake lever mechanism. A decent temporary solution so long as you aren't required to park on hills, etc.

    Not sure about the front caliper. Certainly possible that pads wore down further and the piston is now extended past the rusty section. You will find out real quick-like when you try to compress the caliper to install new pads.
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
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  24. #24
    Senior Member Two Rings CoyneJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by walky_talky20 View Post
    Disconnecting (or never pulling) the handbrake lever will avoid the sticking due to corrosion/debris in the caliper's e-brake lever mechanism. A decent temporary solution so long as you aren't required to park on hills, etc.

    Not sure about the front caliper. Certainly possible that pads wore down further and the piston is now extended past the rusty section. You will find out real quick-like when you try to compress the caliper to install new pads.
    I already installed new brakes last month and the parking brake fixed my front sticking

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

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