The definitive stereo and subwoofer upgrade thread

[gamatt]

thats odd. i did the same thing but couldn't get the rear deck cover on flat. it would snap down but wouldn't lay flat; id have this awkward looking bump because the subwoofer would push up on it. I even cut a bit off the spacer to get it to lay flat but it didn't help. Will probably end up buying a new thinner space on eBay once I get some more time to tackle this.

Did you ever figure out a solution?

[cspcrx]

This information was posted up a long time ago by a member who was upgrading. I does look like there are some getting full signal but does not list what the sub gets.

Connection From Amp - J525 BitOne Input Speaker Connector Pin Color Notes
Center Speaker + CH1 + R158 T32h 5 Blue/White Changes to Blue/White at T17c, Pin 15
Center Speaker - CH1 - R158 T32h 17 Black/White Changes to Black/White at T17c, Pin 17
Front Left Tweeter + Use Combined R20 T27a 11 Red/Blue B101, Positive Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Left Tweeter - Use Combined R20 T27a 24 Brown/Blue B102, Negative Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Left Midrange + Use Combined R103 T17d 15 Red/Green B101, Positive Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Left Midrange - Use Combined R103 T17d 17 Brown/Green B102, Negative Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Left Tweeter/Midrange + CH2 + R20/R103 T32h 6 Red/Blue Shared with R20, R103, contains combined signal
Front Left Tweeter/Midrange - CH2 - R20/R103 T32h 18 Brown/Blue Shared with R20, R103, contains combined signal
Front Left Midbass + CH3 + R21 T32h 23 Red/Blue Changes to Red /Blue at T27a, Pin 20 (Main Harness)
Front Left Midbass - CH3 - R21 T32h 28 Brown/Blue Changes to Brown/Blue at T27a, Pin 22 (Main Harness)
Front Right Tweeter + Use Combined R22 T27c 11 Blue/White B103, Positive Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Right Tweeter - Use Combined R22 T27c 24 Black/White B104, Negative Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not neeeded for BitOne
Front Right Midrange + Use Combined R104 T17f 15 Red/White B103, Positive Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Right Midrange - Use Combined R104 T17f 17 Brown/White B104, Negative Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not neeeded for BitOne
Front Right Tweeter/Midrange + CH4 + R22/R104 T32h 5 Red/Yellow Shared with R22, R104, contains combined signal
Front Right Tweeter/Midrange - CH4 - R22/R104 T32h 19 Brown/Yellow Shared with R22, R104, contains combined signal
Front Right Midbass + CH5 + R23 T32h 10 Red/Yellow Changes to Red/Blue at T27c, Pin 20 (Main Harness)
Front Right Midbass - CH5 - R23 T32h 22 Brown/Yellow Changes to Brown/Blue at T27c, Pin 22 (Main Harness)
Rear Left Tweeter + Use Combined R14 B487 23 Red/Violet Shared with R159, not needed for BitOne
Rear Left Tweeter - Use Combined R14 B486 22 Brown/Violet Shared with R159, not needed for BitOne
Rear Left Midrange + x R105 T32h 8 Red/Gray
Rear Left Midrange - x R105 T32h 20 Brown/Gray
Rear Left Midbass + CH6 + R159 T32h 3 Red/Violet Shared with R14, contains full signal
Rear Left Midbass - CH6 - R159 T32h 15 Brown/Violet Shared with R14, contains full signal
Rear Right Tweeter + Use Combined R16 B485 21 White/Green Shared with R160, not needed for BitOne
Rear Right Tweeter - Use Combined R16 B484 20 Blue/Green Shared with R160, not needed for BitOne
Rear Right Midrange + x R106 T32h 9 Red/Gray
Rear Right Midrange - x R106 T32h 21 Brown/Gray
Rear Right Midbass + CH7 + R160 T32h 4 White/Green Shared with R16, contains full signal
Rear Right Midbass - CH7 - R160 T32h 16 Blue/Green Shared with R16, contains full signal
Subwoofer + CH8 + R157 T32h 25 White/Yellow
Subwoofer - CH8 - R157 T32h 30 Blue/Yellow

[cspcrx]

Just ordered the sub box of Etsy with the 10 in Audison sub. Also ordered the AudioControl 1.300 to power it. Can’t wait to install it and fix the sound gap on this system.

[fmzip]

This information was posted up a long time ago by a member who was upgrading. I does look like there are some getting full signal but does not list what the sub gets.

Connection From Amp - J525 BitOne Input Speaker Connector Pin Color Notes
Center Speaker + CH1 + R158 T32h 5 Blue/White Changes to Blue/White at T17c, Pin 15
Center Speaker - CH1 - R158 T32h 17 Black/White Changes to Black/White at T17c, Pin 17
Front Left Tweeter + Use Combined R20 T27a 11 Red/Blue B101, Positive Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Left Tweeter - Use Combined R20 T27a 24 Brown/Blue B102, Negative Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Left Midrange + Use Combined R103 T17d 15 Red/Green B101, Positive Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Left Midrange - Use Combined R103 T17d 17 Brown/Green B102, Negative Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Left Tweeter/Midrange + CH2 + R20/R103 T32h 6 Red/Blue Shared with R20, R103, contains combined signal
Front Left Tweeter/Midrange - CH2 - R20/R103 T32h 18 Brown/Blue Shared with R20, R103, contains combined signal
Front Left Midbass + CH3 + R21 T32h 23 Red/Blue Changes to Red /Blue at T27a, Pin 20 (Main Harness)
..........................

Great information!

[cspcrx]

Ive noticed a few that had theirs done by shops used channel 3 and or 5 for the sub signal. Leads me to believe they are after the full range signal and not one that is already being limited in some way by the factory amp.

[cspcrx]

Goodies are all here and ready for install. Have next week off so I will work on it then. still not clear on which wire to tap, factory sub or front midwoofer.

Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr

[mikey7182]

Here’s the first half of my install. 8” pro audio midbass in custom baffles, 7” pro midrange in custom kicks, and horn loaded compression drivers.

[cybernet99]

Here’s the first half of my install. 8” pro audio midbass in custom baffles, 7” pro midrange in custom kicks, and horn loaded compression drivers.

Well done! Reminds me of my days competing in IASCA ...

What drivers are you using? What does the rest of the system look like? Gear?

I'm working on a competition worthy setup in my A4 at the moment as well.

[cspcrx]

Those are some great looking adapter rings. What did you use to make them?

[mikey7182]

Well done! Reminds me of my days competing in IASCA ...

What drivers are you using? What does the rest of the system look like? Gear?

I'm working on a competition worthy setup in my A4 at the moment as well.

I've used pro audio gear for years. I love the unique, visceral sound characteristics of high efficiency drivers. My setup is as follows:

Image Dynamics horns with B&C DE120 compression drivers

http://www.bcspeakers.com/en/product.../archive/de120

B&C MDN44 midrange in kicks

http://www.bcspeakers.com/en/product...6-5/8/6mdn44-8

B&C 8MBX51 8" midbass in doors


http://www.bcspeakers.com/en/product...r/8-0/8/8mbx51

B&C 18DS115-8 18" subwoofer, will be installed in an infinite baffle configuration. Tons of excursion, comes in weighing pretty light due to the neo motor, will take up very little trunk space (especially considering it's an 18") due to the lack of enclosure, and will balance well with the other drivers.


http://www.bcspeakers.com/en/product...-0/8/18ds115-8

Gladen amplifiers, modified (removed the internal filters and fixed gain)- XS75c6 (x2) these will run in bridged mode, one to the left front stage, and the other to the right front. An SPL1800c1 will power the sub at 8 ohms.

https://www.woofersetc.com/p-11224-x...amplifier.html
https://www.woofersetc.com/p-11233-s...amplifier.html

Processing will be a moBridge DA3 MOST adapter to a Mosconi 6to8 Aerospace


http://mosconi-america.com/portfolio...to8-aerospace/

cspcrx- thanks! A friend of mine is a very talented installer, and owns Handcrafted Car Audio here in Arizona. I didn't have much time to work on this particular install, so I've had his shop doing most of the work. I'm pretty sure he used a table router with a flush trim bit to follow the shape of the midbass. I provided him with the material- it's HDPE (basically what cutting boards are made out of). I sourced it from a plastics supplier. It's very dense, non-resonant, and waterproof. :)

[cspcrx]

Very cool we have a lot of great shops here in the valley. I am sure it will sound light years better than the stock system.

[mikey7182]

Very cool we have a lot of great shops here in the valley. I am sure it will sound light years better than the stock system.

Oh I just noticed you're local to me! Nice. Anyone ever meet up? I've seen a modded S4/S5 here and there but not very often.

[cspcrx]

There are occasional ones at the pavilions car show on Saturdays and a couple of us have gone out to wild horse pass drag strip together.

Your friend that owns the shop would he know the frequency output on the sub signal for the B&O sound system by any chance? I am trying to decide how to hook my new sub up. Off the stock sub signal or off another channel and use the built in cross over. I do not have an RTA so I cannot check it myself.

[mikey7182]

There are occasional ones at the pavilions car show on Saturdays and a couple of us have gone out to wild horse pass drag strip together.

Your friend that owns the shop would he know the frequency output on the sub signal for the B&O sound system by any chance? I am trying to decide how to hook my new sub up. Off the stock sub signal or off another channel and use the built in cross over. I do not have an RTA so I cannot check it myself.

He may know. I found this in a quick search:

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...B-amp-O-system

Looks like the front/rear doors start to roll off around 55hz, and so does the sub. I'm guessing if they use standard xover points, it's likely at either 63hz or 50hz, -12db/oct. Depending on whether you upgraded your factory door speakers (or their amplification) would be the determining factor, I think. So for example, if you're using aftermarket components and amps with like an 80hz xover point, then I'd use the other amp for your sub so you can match that.

[cspcrx]

Not sure how I missed that last post in the that thread. As expected it’s all matched from the factor so it probably makes the most sense to not use the cross over in the amp and just use what the factory amp is already providing so it melds with the rest of the sound system

[Drunktank]

He may know. I found this in a quick search:

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...B-amp-O-system

Well that's interesting. I wonder how the door woofers are being low passed at 500? It's a full range signal coming in from the door, as the wire splits to go to the tweeter, which is protected by a cap. I don't remember seeing any kind of coil or anything on the door woofers.

B&C 18DS115-8 18" subwoofer, will be installed in an infinite baffle configuration. Tons of excursion, comes in weighing pretty light due to the neo motor, will take up very little trunk space (especially considering it's an 18") due to the lack of enclosure, and will balance well with the other drivers.

Nice! I thought the Dayton 12" HO was going to the be king of the B8 trunks for a while, but I'm curious to see how this turns out.

Goodies are all here and ready for install. Have next week off so I will work on it then. still not clear on which wire to tap, factory sub or front midwoofer.

Curious to see where the amp goes. Spare tire well or left trunk door? I think it will be perfect for the Audison.

[cybernet99]

I've used pro audio gear for years. I love the unique, visceral sound characteristics of high efficiency drivers. My setup is as follows:

Image Dynamics horns with B&C DE120 compression drivers

http://www.bcspeakers.com/en/product.../archive/de120

B&C MDN44 midrange in kicks

http://www.bcspeakers.com/en/product...6-5/8/6mdn44-8

B&C 8MBX51 8" midbass in doors


http://www.bcspeakers.com/en/product...r/8-0/8/8mbx51

B&C 18DS115-8 18" subwoofer, will be installed in an infinite baffle configuration. Tons of excursion, comes in weighing pretty light due to the neo motor, will take up very little trunk space (especially considering it's an 18") due to the lack of enclosure, and will balance well with the other drivers.


http://www.bcspeakers.com/en/product...-0/8/18ds115-8

Gladen amplifiers, modified (removed the internal filters and fixed gain)- XS75c6 (x2) these will run in bridged mode, one to the left front stage, and the other to the right front. An SPL1800c1 will power the sub at 8 ohms.

https://www.woofersetc.com/p-11224-x...amplifier.html
https://www.woofersetc.com/p-11233-s...amplifier.html

Processing will be a moBridge DA3 MOST adapter to a Mosconi 6to8 Aerospace


http://mosconi-america.com/portfolio...to8-aerospace/

Very nice! I figured the horns would be Image Dynamics!

How did you run the speaker wires into the doors? I assume you are running real speaker wires to all of these drivers and not leveraging any of the oem wiring for these ...

I'm contemplating drilling out a portion of the original connectors into the doors to see if I can fit a four wire speaker wire from someone like Monster into the doors. I'm running AudioFrog 1.5" tweeters in place of the B&O tweeters (custom pods), and JL Audio 8" mid bass drivers in the stock door woofer locations. Will build a similar template out of the cutting boards like you have ... maybe not as nice but similar idea for the 6" drivers in the doors. I'm building a sealed enclosure that sits up tight to the rear parcel tray for a JL 12W6v3-D4 in the B&O sub location. Will leave most of the trunk accessible, which is what I want. Then I'm going to use a pair of Kicker IQ1000.5 amps to power everything. Oh ya, and I am mounting a pair of AudioFrog 2.5" in place of the factory B&O 2" in the dash.

The Kicker IQ's should work nice with the built in DSP/x-over & time alignment.

[Drunktank]

You’re right, I believe the only way to get new wiring into the doors is to drill the bottom part of the connector that doesn’t have any active pins.

[cspcrx]

Going to mount the amp in the empty slot in the left cubby between the stock amp and nav controller. I figure this will be the cleanest location.


WOW those tweeter pods look great. A previous member had posted that the stock grill was very restrictive. The stock tweet sits well behind the grill and it just does not point in the best direction. If you made those you could sell them.

[cybernet99]

WOW those tweeter pods look great. A previous member had posted that the stock grill was very restrictive. The stock tweet sits well behind the grill and it just does not point in the best direction. If you made those you could sell them.

Thanks CSPCRX, the tweeter pods are not quite finished, very close ... just need to wrap them in headliner material so that they blend right in with the factory A pillar covers. They have taken me F.O.R.E.V.E.R. LOL, but they are turning out as nice as I had hoped. I bought new OEM blanks without the speaker holes, cut them wide open on the exposed side, and then built and positioned a tweeter mounting ring. Wrapped them in speaker cloth to get the desired shape, and then put fiberglass resin on the speaker cloth. Once that hardened, then I laid fiberglass cloth inside of the pod to make it strong and to sandwich the plastic trim between the fiberglass.

Yes, the factory B&O is buried deep inside of the factory trim and is definitely not optimally placed. Being that the tweeters are very directional, I spent a lot of time on getting the angle just right for both sides and for them to be pointing at the same location inside to provide good staging.

mikey7182 my stage won't be as good as your Image Dynamics horn's though. I've heard some amazing cars that went that route ... I'm sure yours will sound amazing!

[mikey7182]

Very nice! I figured the horns would be Image Dynamics!

How did you run the speaker wires into the doors? I assume you are running real speaker wires to all of these drivers and not leveraging any of the oem wiring for these ...

I'm contemplating drilling out a portion of the original connectors into the doors to see if I can fit a four wire speaker wire from someone like Monster into the doors. I'm running AudioFrog 1.5" tweeters in place of the B&O tweeters (custom pods), and JL Audio 8" mid bass drivers in the stock door woofer locations. Will build a similar template out of the cutting boards like you have ... maybe not as nice but similar idea for the 6" drivers in the doors. I'm building a sealed enclosure that sits up tight to the rear parcel tray for a JL 12W6v3-D4 in the B&O sub location. Will leave most of the trunk accessible, which is what I want. Then I'm going to use a pair of Kicker IQ1000.5 amps to power everything. Oh ya, and I am mounting a pair of AudioFrog 2.5" in place of the factory B&O 2" in the dash.

The Kicker IQ's should work nice with the built in DSP/x-over & time alignment.

There is new wire run to all the drivers from the trunk where the amps will be mounted, but the doors presented a bit of a problem, and the cost/effort involved in drilling out a pin or otherwise compromising my door harness didn't seem worth the marginal gains (if any) I might see from upgrading that last 18" of OE wire. I usually prefer not to do it that way and am typically overkill with my cabling, but I had to make a decision so I did. We'll see how it turns out.

One of the advantages of high efficiency drivers is they don't require a ton of power to get loud, so while they will likely have as much/more output than most conventional aftermarket midbass, they'll only see 25-50w most of the time. I tapped into the factory cables behind the kick panel right before they run through the door, and aftermarket wire back to the trunk from there.

Your pods look killer! The color matching was a nice touch, and AF is a great company. Andy W., formerly of JBL, started it up, and the pro audio side of JBL is where I got my start with horns and high efficiency drivers. The shop that is doing the work for me is an AF dealer. Lots of great products coming from them.

Also, that baffle is badass! Been a long time since I've seen someone kerf a piece of MDF! I like how you used it to reinforce the rear deck. That's awesome man.

[cspcrx]

Awesome thread.

Here is the biggest contribution I can make:


Thank me later

About to remove the stock sub so I will need to remove the lower part of the c pillars. I still do not understand what the fork is helping with and preventing. Whiped you were just to criptic for me.

[cybernet99]

About to remove the stock sub so I will need to remove the lower part of the c pillars. I still do not understand what the fork is helping with and preventing. Whiped you were just to criptic for me.

LOL, .. it will be very clear when you realize the clips stayed behind instead of coming out with the panel. The fork fits perfectly ... I'm guessing it worked well to pull that little bugger back out. :)

[cspcrx]

Thanks, I could not tell if it was holding the upper portion in place, the clip in place, the airbag in place or what.

Project begins tomorrow so I will see soon enough I guess. Just a couple little parts to pull together today and tomorrow morning. Need to get some extra 10 gauge speaker wire to run from the sub. The section it came with is not long enough to reach from the right side all the way around to the left where the amp will be mounted.

[daytonas4]

Here’s the first half of my install. 8” pro audio midbass in custom baffles, 7” pro midrange in custom kicks, and horn loaded compression drivers.

hey bud this is not diyma ...lol

[waxxonMTL]

hahaha ^^

[mikey7182]

hey bud this is not diyma ...lol

At least my posts don’t disappear out of nowhere! :D That place has become a shit show.

[Strong Man]

The new rest foot design :))))

[cspcrx]

LOL, .. it will be very clear when you realize the clips stayed behind instead of coming out with the panel. The fork fits perfectly ... I'm guessing it worked well to pull that little bugger back out. :)

So ran into this. That same metal clip stayed being on both sides. I used a small pair of flat end pliers and pulled them both out, the put them back into the slot in the cover they came out of. Funny how that one does that on all of the.

[daytonas4]

At least my posts don’t disappear out of nowhere! :D That place has become a shit show.

indeed !

[Solarsuplex]

So i've seen reference to people running aftermarket subs off the OEM amp. Then others are obviously installing amps to power subs. Is there a definitive RMS that requires an aftermarket amp? Loving the side panel enclosures. After my last run with fiberglass I can appreciate the work that's gone into the the production of clean boxes. Has anybody had luck with dual 8's or 10's in both trunk cubbies with full hidden amp(s)?

[mikey7182]

The new rest foot design :))))

It’s multi-purpose, haha. I had him use heavy gauge mesh for the grill material, and it’s actually fairly discrete as a dead pedal replacement. It doesn’t take up any more space than the pedal did (a little less actually).

[cspcrx]

Took the stock sub apart and pulled the woofer out. Glued it back together and put it back in so there is now a port running from the truck into the passenger compartment with the stock Audi grill.

Building a bracket to mount the amp in the empty spot below the factory amp as well. Did not make as much progress as I wanted but taking my time to make it all right.

[waxxonMTL]

There isn't much difference in fabrication for 6.5's or 8's.....You'll have to fabricate a mount for either. Either way you have to sandwich two 3/4 MDF spacers together and then attach them to a 1/4" piece of wood or plastic. You need a jigsaw, and a cordless drill and drill bits, screws and some caulk

Get 2 sets of these for the fronts and a couple of cutting boards:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PCS-8-MDF...EAAOSwRoZZicnB

These are for the rears:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pair-Wood...0AAOSwmblZ17pG





And no....

Do the Voce 3" first, the front AP8's next, the rear doors last...don't forget the sub ;)

I'd offer to make some rings but they may not be the prettiest

hey guys !

I got my Voce 3, AP1 and AP8.. only thing missing the bracket to mount the 8 inch. Anyone can fabricate some ? I will pay obviously lol!

[cspcrx]

Ok so sub install finished. Did it over two days taking my time and running into a few sticking points along the way. I took an RTA reading using the audio tools app and a Dayton IMM-6 mic. This is what my cars sound signature looks like with all settings to flat, focus all and Gala off.
Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr

I did remove the stock sub from its housing and reinstalled it so it acts as a port from the truck into the passenger compartment and supports the rear deck cover. Was very easy to disassemble as it is held together with glue. A flat head screw driver was all it took to pry it into its three parts. I glued it back together with super glue.
Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr

I ran another sound test with no sub in place to see really what it is and is not providing in the sound field. Scale is a bit different so it changed how the rest of the spectrum appears but you can see without the sub below 50hz is way down. This also confirms a lot of "bass" is coming through our door woofers, the 60-120 hz area.
Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr

I made a mount for my ACM 1.300 amp to mount in the open spot, worked out really well. Power was picked up at the battery using open terminal and ground is attached to a bolt in the spare tire well that is not used. I picked up signal from the stock sub out put, blue/yellow and white/yellow. This is where I ran into some challenges. The volts produced were not enough to turn the GTO on so I then add a remote turn on from the fuse box in the right rear. Using an add a fuse made this pretty easy. Just meant another wire to loom and run. My fingers a feeling the affects of all the braded wire loom, but it looks more factory this way.
Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr
Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr

Finally the sub install. I got 10" Audison sub in a premade from the custom subwoofer shop on Etsy. Quality on these enclosures is great. Installation for me was not as easy as the youtube videos made it look. Had to drill the hole twice and the order seemed a bit off in the instructions. If you mount the rod you cannot close the compartment to drill the hole through the pocket. I also added a nylock nut on the back to ensure it does not back off, Im a bit OCD some times, so it made taking it apart and putting it together a bit more work. I also had to drill the hole twice as the first one was miss aligned. so removal again of the rod. Aside from that I am very pleased with box and its quality.
Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr

The sound is what it needs to be for sure. My wife always commented on how her JBL sound system in her Tacoma sounds better. She got in the car for a sound demo and said it was a million times better, I have to agree. Great balance and plenty of boom if you want it with the right song. I still need to play with the accubass system some more but all in all I am very happy.

[cspcrx]

two more pics sound system after. forgot to post those as well. First is of the natural sounds present sitting in the car with the stereo off and car not running.
Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr

And this is what it looks like with the new sub and the treble up two notches. compare this to the very first image posted above and it is much flatter.
Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr

[Cooper993]

Not being able to leave well enough alone, today I ordered the Audison AV 3's.

For the next step, I am considering adding the AudioControl ACM-1.300 to the Pioneer TSW261D4 already installed in the parcel shelf. I'm thinking that driving it at 4 ohms @ 175 watts and have more control over the bass level may give me what I'm looking for without going to a box.

[svenson14]

two more pics sound system after. forgot to post those as well. First is of the natural sounds present sitting in the car with the stereo off and car not running.
Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr

And this is what it looks like with the new sub and the treble up two notches. compare this to the very first image posted above and it is much flatter.
Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr

This is all with an App and a Mic?? Is it accurate?

Not being able to leave well enough alone, today I ordered the Audison AV 3's.

For the next step, I am considering adding the AudioControl ACM-1.300 to the Pioneer TSW261D4 already installed in the parcel shelf. I'm thinking that driving it at 4 ohms @ 175 watts and have more control over the bass level may give me what I'm looking for without going to a box.

That's a dual 4ohm Sub... You'll have to wire it in series to 8ohms or parallel to 2 ohms.

How did/will you fit that 9.3 into the shelf?

[Cooper993]

That's a dual 4ohm Sub... You'll have to wire it in series to 8ohms or parallel to 2 ohms.

How did/will you fit that 9.3 into the shelf?

The ACM has two outputs. I assumed that each could be wired individually to the dual voice coils on the sub. Is that not correct?

Regarding fitting the sub in the shelf, a number of us have done this already. Scroll back to the earlier pages in this thread for the details.

[cspcrx]

From the reviews I have seen yes the app and mic is accurate. Seems the old large rta is going the way of the dodo bird. The mic impacts some, one could argue that this $25 mic is not as precise as the $200 versions. But for what I was doing and trying to see it works very well. Both get great reviews from audiophiles.