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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Apr 12 2016
    AZ Member #
    371694
    Location
    Virginia

    DIY Crankcase Vent Valve, aka PVC valve, replacement

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    Does anybody have any DIY tips and or advise on how to replace the Crankcase Vent , aka PVC valve, on my 05 B6 A4 1.8t?

    Mine is the 06A-103-245-F variety. The one that looks like a " T " with an extra nippel on the side.

    Thanks in advance.

    JaaTee

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings egovreau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 08 2015
    AZ Member #
    354212
    My Garage
    2017 Audi Q5, 1989 Jaguar XJS, 2005 Ford F-250, 2002 VW Passat Wagon
    Location
    Orting, WA

    Quote Originally Posted by JaaTee View Post
    Does anybody have any DIY tips and or advise on how to replace the Crankcase Vent , aka PVC valve, on my 05 B6 A4 1.8t?

    Mine is the 06A-103-245-F variety. The one that looks like a " T " with an extra nippel on the side.

    Thanks in advance.

    JaaTee
    Purchase the 034 breather kit, which will eliminate the plastic (prone to cracking) and rubber (prone to softening).

    As for how, it's up to you. One school of thought is to remove the intake manifold, which does make it easier to clean out the block breather connection if it disintegrates upon removal. I was replacing the thermostat on my car, which had the throttle body and alternator removed, allowing me to go in under the intake without removing it from the front of the engine.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 17 2015
    AZ Member #
    349506
    My Garage
    '64 VW Type 3 Notch, '66 Type 3 Fastback, '77 Rabbit 2.0L 16v w/ITBs, '84 944, '99 323i
    Location
    Evansville, IN

    I did mine with the intake manifold on and it took me 30-45 minutes, and 90% of that was getting the chunks of the old valve out of the breather block.

  4. #4
    Registered Member One Ring mamboyoyo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 08 2017
    AZ Member #
    394996
    Location
    Houston, TX

    I am planning to do the same job, but have a question with the hose routing. Upon inspecting my newly acquired 04 B6, I discovered the backside of the T that includes the PCV was not connected to anything. Then I found a hose coming from the the Y fitting on the back of the valve cover housing that was just shoved down to dump below the car. I assume this hose was supposed to connect to the backside of the aforementioned T which makes sense based an diagram I found. So I plan to replace and reconnect those parts. I found this photo in an earlier thread, which shows a hose coming off the back of the T, which is what I assume I would see on mine if it wasn't disconnected. My question is, was this hose used in place of the multi-bend hard-line looking part in the replacement parts kit photo? And if so is it recommended to stick with the hose or go with the OEM style hard-line (or am I off-base here and the hard-line actually goes somewhere else)? Thanks for any clarification.



  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 27 2011
    AZ Member #
    77478
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    The problem with removing the manifold to do this is you then discover all the other shit around the PCV that is also broken, cracked, leaking, and generally borked.

    /s

    But yea, unless you have tiny hands, remove the manifold. Having done it both ways, it pays to get that aluminum monstrosity out of the way. Especially if this is your first time digging into the PCV.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 26 2015
    AZ Member #
    339463
    Location
    Tampa, FL

    Couldn't you get some room by removing the alternator? I did mine with the intake manifold removed as well, but it was part of a huge overhaul.

  7. #7
    Active Member Two Rings khancept94's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 30 2017
    AZ Member #
    400288
    My Garage
    2004 Volvo XC90 2.5T
    Location
    Oregon

    I just did this for myself and boy did i have an unpleasant experience. The thing that took me the longest was getting the C clip off that secures the first pipe to the crankcase. The second problem i had is that the bleeder valve that comes with the 034 motorsport silicone hose is only a 1 way port where as the stock valve has a second port. I now have an open metal port behind the valve cover beside that 3 way connector that connects the new breather hose to the valve cover and the pancake valve.


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  8. #8
    Active Member Two Rings khancept94's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 30 2017
    AZ Member #
    400288
    My Garage
    2004 Volvo XC90 2.5T
    Location
    Oregon

    Not to mention the 3 way connector from 034 doesnt even fit onto the metal tip by the valve cover, nor did the kit come with a new O-ring for the crankcase breather...


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

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