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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings volvofan's Avatar
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    Finally! Successful install of Auto headlight switch, CH/LH switch, and DRL switch

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    I found a lot of info scattered about the forums and all over the 'net in general about these mods, but a lot of it was for slightly different models or different years, so I battled with a lot of the wiring until I finally got ElsaWIN installed and traced the wiring diagrams for myself. Installation of the switches is not difficult and well-documented in other threads, but here's the wiring connections and VCDS coding that worked for me, as well as what I learned along the way.

    The "right" way to do all these retrofits, by the way, is to order up the proper connectors and use suitable repair wire. I needed three different types of pins: The first are the large spade receivers for the headlight switch N 000 979 133, the second go inside the CH/LH connector housing 000 979 018 EA, and the third kind go into the T32b connector on the Central Electronics Control Module 000 979 009E. In addition, you'll need the CH/LH connector housing part # 8Z0 972 883 (unless you buy a junkyard pull where they clipped the wiring harness and give you the pigtail), the CH/LH & DRL switch (8E1 919 094 D), the auto headlight switch, a rain/light sensor, and the connector housing (or pigtail). Spend a couple extra bucks and order some nice fabric electrical tape so you can make your wiring job all nice and tidy.

    FYI, there is still ONE thing not yet working for me... I am struggling to get the rain sensor disabled so I can just control my intermittent wipers with the timing function the way it used to be. I have seen VCDS codes to disable the rain sensor but applying that adaptation still doesn't seem to give me the timer function back. I will update this thread once I've got that sorted out, but in the meantime, here's a 90% solution.

    HEADLIGHT SWITCH:
    Connect pins 7 and 16 to each other, and connect to pin 29 on T32b of the CECM. All should be empty on a baseline model that did not have the auto headlight switch before.

    CH/LH & DRL SWITCH:
    Connect pin 3 to pin 30 on T32b of CECM (should be empty)... this is for the DRL switch.
    From pins 4 and 8, splice to pin 1 on the headlight switch (do not CUT the wire going to pin 1... it comes from pin 20 on T32b and supplies power to a bunch of stuff)
    From pin 5, splice to pin 10 on the headlight switch (again... do not CUT. That's the ground)
    Connect pin 7 to pin 24 on T32b of CECM (should be empty)... this is for the CH/LH switch.

    The ELSAwin wiring diagrams actually show pin 8 being connected to a wire in the instrument cluster control panel, which is the SAME wire that goes to pin 17 on the headlight switch. My pin 17 was empty, so I connected pin 8 from the CH/LH & DRL switch to it... this might explain why the switch is lit up full bright all the time rather than dimming with the rest of the switch lighting. I'm going to go in there this afternoon and try it the way I have described above (connecting pins 4 & 8 together and running both to pin 1). It's a minor issue so I'm not to fussed about it right now. Okay, so maybe this is an 89% solution.

    RAIN/LIGHT SENSOR: (If you do NOT install the rain/light sensor, then you'll get a DIS error in the AUTO position. I also did the trip computer retrofit so maybe you don't get this error if you don't have the trip computer?)
    Connect pin 1 to a fused 10A power source. I actually stuck one of the connectors I got for the headlight switch into a vacant spot that was supposed to be for an "auxiliary heater" or something, because the spot was empty and there was a bus bar there already bringing the power to one side of the fuse.
    Connect pin 2 to ground. I just tapped pin 10 on the headlight switch again, since I was already doing so in the process of making/modding this harness.
    Connect pin 3 to pin 14 of T32b. this was the connection I couldn't find ANYWHERE until I got ElsaWIN and traced it out for myself... so hopefully this helps someone else out.

    I "mounted" the sensor behind the fuse panel, so yes, it thinks it's always dark out.

    VCDS:
    I coded module 9 as 11013. That activates rain/light sensor (2nd digit), sets the country to USA (5th digit), and sets that DRL configuration to turn on the low beams, amber corners, and tail lamps (4th digit).

    For adaptations in module 9, I coded adaptation 1 as 20 seconds (CH/LH time), adaptation 8 as "1" (DRL on), and I'm still fiddling with adaptation 13 to try and disable the rain sensor.

    UPDATE: I finally figured out a way to regain time-delayed control of my intermittent wipers. It requires a bit of a wiring retrofit/workaround, but I have been very happy with the solution. The write-up can be found in post #20 of this thread here:

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...t-wiping-delay



    I coded module 17 as 0023208. This sets the country as USA (5th digit). I also set adaptation 19 as 31300.


    I hope this helps, folks... more to follow once I sort out the doggone intermittent wiper delay issue.


    -Jon
    Last edited by volvofan; 05-04-2017 at 11:16 AM. Reason: Finally figured out intermittent wiper delay control.
    2013 RS5 Coupe 57k; slower than an Apache... not by much.

    GO - ECS intake; LWCP / LWFW / FP; Kline headers & exh; HFCs
    STOP - Forgestar F14s; Michelin Pilot Sport AS4; Voshmods rear BBK; CCBs x4
    TURN - ALL the braces; EuroCode sways; PowerFlex inserts; KW HAS; SPC UCAs
    PROTECT - RMR xmsn cooler / bar; ECS shields; JXB bearing; AG battery
    A/V - RSNav S4 10.25"; JL 8W1V3 sub; Alpine MRV-M500 amp; lighted sills/rings
    OTHER - Weathertech; Ziza LEDs; RMR hoses; ALL the carbon fiber

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings Osher67's Avatar
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    Wow this great. ok I'm puting the ch/lh switch in from a s4 I have the whole wire harness.
    I'm confused on what I should do with pin 1 on the headlight switch connector. Your post is little misleading on splicing or? I connected the solid blue wire to pin 7 with the little jumper to pin 16, but I have a black wire from the headlight connector in pin 1.
    On the s4 harness there's a black wire with blue stripe that gose to the orange connector at the driver side kick panel.
    It dose look like I have a black wire at the orange connector at the kick panel. Looks like it continues into the headliner harness.

    So I'm assuming should match the black/blue wire on the orange connector and splice into pin one on the headlight switch connector ?
    -Josh
    🇩🇪




    2002 01A Quattro
    K04-15 (Unitronic)

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Sorry for the dumb questions, but what is this achieving (without acroynms) that the standard application doesn't do?
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Ashtonts's Avatar
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    Finally! Successful install of Auto headlight switch, CH/LH switch, and DRL switch

    Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post
    Sorry for the dumb questions, but what is this achieving (without acroynms) that the standard application doesn't do?
    I would assume it's a retrofit that gives him the daytime running light, coming home (when your tail and fog lights turn on when you lock/unlock the car), and auto-on headlight functionalities


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    2007 Porsche Cayman | 5MT

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Im pretty sure mine does that already ??? Confused.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings Ashtonts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post
    Im pretty sure mine does that already ??? Confused.
    Iirc cars with xenon lights have all those functionalities. Halogen cars can be optioned to have them, with the exception of the DRL's. It isn't a standard package though so cars do exist without them (at least here in the states )
    2007 Porsche Cayman | 5MT

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    DRL is parking lights right? I think i have it wrong.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  8. #8
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post
    DRL is parking lights right? I think i have it wrong.
    You have halogens correct? The cities (194 peanut bulbs) are your DRLS and will always be on when your cars on along with side markers, and maybe fogs. the 12v side marker DRL's are for the xenons.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwinters14 View Post
    You have halogens correct? The cities (194 peanut bulbs) are your DRLS and will always be on when your cars on along with side markers, and maybe fogs. the 12v side marker DRL's are for the xenons.
    Yeah, but im in Australia. Side markers aren't on, neither are the fogs and the DRLS are only on in the park light function (first click after auto).
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings Axis's Avatar
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    3.0T 6MT Stage III Allroad | A4 B8.5 Sedan
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    Finally! Successful install of Auto headlight switch, CH/LH switch, and DRL switch

    I've been trying to do this retrofit and made myself a whole harness using B6 Autodiming mirror (no rain sensor) and following this DIY:

    Click here

    I used a B7 S4 cecm. It didnt work when I installed the harness so I removed it, after removing it I noticed pin 1 of my headlight switch was frayed... Maybe that was why it wasnt working but I've since used pieces of that harness of other projects. Will tackle it again soon.
    Wagons are made to haul things, mine is made to haul ass

    *****I sell in USD*****

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    B8.5 Allroad 3.0T 6MT Sport Diff 034 Stage II+

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings volvofan's Avatar
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    Yes, I have halogens, not xenons, so my car didn't come with any of this stuff. The DRL switch, when activated, now turns on the low beams at about 50% brightness whenever it's daytime out. The Come Home / Leave Home (CH/LH) switch, when activated, briefly turns on the fog lights and tail lights when you lock/unlock the car whenever it's dark out. Most important to me was the auto headlight switch, so that I didn't have to manually switch the headlights on & off.

    Without the added light sensor, the auto headlight switch threw a warning message into the DIS. But once I added the light sensor, the rain sensor came with it, which took away my time-based intermittent wiper delay.

    I've addressed that last issue (no time-based wiper delay w/ rain sensor) with a nifty retrofit, and will update the first post in this thread with the link to the how-to.

    -Jon
    2013 RS5 Coupe 57k; slower than an Apache... not by much.

    GO - ECS intake; LWCP / LWFW / FP; Kline headers & exh; HFCs
    STOP - Forgestar F14s; Michelin Pilot Sport AS4; Voshmods rear BBK; CCBs x4
    TURN - ALL the braces; EuroCode sways; PowerFlex inserts; KW HAS; SPC UCAs
    PROTECT - RMR xmsn cooler / bar; ECS shields; JXB bearing; AG battery
    A/V - RSNav S4 10.25"; JL 8W1V3 sub; Alpine MRV-M500 amp; lighted sills/rings
    OTHER - Weathertech; Ziza LEDs; RMR hoses; ALL the carbon fiber

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Just curious, is it possible to do the CH/LH switch without the auto headlight switch or rain sensor or any of the other BS that I don't want?

    Cause I just want the lights to light up lol. I can handle turning a headlight switch (at least until the speaker fails some day )


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings volvofan's Avatar
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    I believe you can activate the CH/LH function via VCDS programming ONLY? Not sure, as me getting the Auto headlight switch was the most important part for me :)

    -Jon
    2013 RS5 Coupe 57k; slower than an Apache... not by much.

    GO - ECS intake; LWCP / LWFW / FP; Kline headers & exh; HFCs
    STOP - Forgestar F14s; Michelin Pilot Sport AS4; Voshmods rear BBK; CCBs x4
    TURN - ALL the braces; EuroCode sways; PowerFlex inserts; KW HAS; SPC UCAs
    PROTECT - RMR xmsn cooler / bar; ECS shields; JXB bearing; AG battery
    A/V - RSNav S4 10.25"; JL 8W1V3 sub; Alpine MRV-M500 amp; lighted sills/rings
    OTHER - Weathertech; Ziza LEDs; RMR hoses; ALL the carbon fiber

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings Axis's Avatar
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    3.0T 6MT Stage III Allroad | A4 B8.5 Sedan
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    Wagons are made to haul things, mine is made to haul ass

    *****I sell in USD*****

    Click here to read my seller feedback

    B8.5 Allroad 3.0T 6MT Sport Diff 034 Stage II+

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Finally! Successful install of Auto headlight switch, CH/LH switch, and DRL switch

    I had seen that! That was gonna be the procedure I was gonna use actually haha

    I have that exact CH/Lh switch too, I don't have the one that has the DRL switch

    The only thing is in America we don't have that "height adjustment plug"

    So I don't know what to do since that is like the main talking point about the whole procedure haha

    Also wtf is a kadvrat wire??

    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings Axis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pezgoon View Post
    I had seen that! That was gonna be the procedure I was gonna use actually haha

    I have that exact CH/Lh switch too, I don't have the one that has the DRL switch


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    You basically tap 4-5-8 to the matching color coded wire on the headlight switch. You then connect pin 7 to pin 24 of T32 @ J519 using an 009 terminal end. Code via vagcom and voilà. CH/LH will be active at all times instead of only when dark.
    Wagons are made to haul things, mine is made to haul ass

    *****I sell in USD*****

    Click here to read my seller feedback

    B8.5 Allroad 3.0T 6MT Sport Diff 034 Stage II+

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Also will I get an error without the light sensor? Idc if the module gives it to me when I'm in vcds but I will be significantly annoyed if it's constantly telling me lol


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    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings Axis's Avatar
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    @volvofan did you sue ch/lh switch ârt number 8E1 919 094 B With only the on/off toggle switch or the other with on/off and timer?
    Wagons are made to haul things, mine is made to haul ass

    *****I sell in USD*****

    Click here to read my seller feedback

    B8.5 Allroad 3.0T 6MT Sport Diff 034 Stage II+

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Three Rings volvofan's Avatar
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    I started with the part number you showed, then switched to the one with both CH/LH and DRL knobs, which is 8E1 919 094 D.

    -Jon
    2013 RS5 Coupe 57k; slower than an Apache... not by much.

    GO - ECS intake; LWCP / LWFW / FP; Kline headers & exh; HFCs
    STOP - Forgestar F14s; Michelin Pilot Sport AS4; Voshmods rear BBK; CCBs x4
    TURN - ALL the braces; EuroCode sways; PowerFlex inserts; KW HAS; SPC UCAs
    PROTECT - RMR xmsn cooler / bar; ECS shields; JXB bearing; AG battery
    A/V - RSNav S4 10.25"; JL 8W1V3 sub; Alpine MRV-M500 amp; lighted sills/rings
    OTHER - Weathertech; Ziza LEDs; RMR hoses; ALL the carbon fiber

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Finally! Successful install of Auto headlight switch, CH/LH switch, and DRL switch

    Quote Originally Posted by volvofan View Post
    I started with the part number you showed, then switched to the one with both CH/LH and DRL knobs, which is 8E1 919 094 D.

    -Jon
    Whyd you switch?

    I'm pretty sure I bought your one without he drl


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    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings volvofan's Avatar
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    That's correct... the "B" variant only has CH/LH, whereas the "D" variant has both CH/LH and DRL, which I decided I wanted (just a couple days after purchasing the switch you have now and then finding out I could control DRL also).
    2013 RS5 Coupe 57k; slower than an Apache... not by much.

    GO - ECS intake; LWCP / LWFW / FP; Kline headers & exh; HFCs
    STOP - Forgestar F14s; Michelin Pilot Sport AS4; Voshmods rear BBK; CCBs x4
    TURN - ALL the braces; EuroCode sways; PowerFlex inserts; KW HAS; SPC UCAs
    PROTECT - RMR xmsn cooler / bar; ECS shields; JXB bearing; AG battery
    A/V - RSNav S4 10.25"; JL 8W1V3 sub; Alpine MRV-M500 amp; lighted sills/rings
    OTHER - Weathertech; Ziza LEDs; RMR hoses; ALL the carbon fiber

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Three Rings Osher67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by volvofan View Post
    That's correct... the "B" variant only has CH/LH, whereas the "D" variant has both CH/LH and DRL, which I decided I wanted (just a couple days after purchasing the switch you have now and then finding out I could control DRL also).
    I have the "B" variant , but want The drl "D" variant. Don't really care for headlight adjusting switch. I have all the wires from the "B" switch it's only one extra wire for the drl "D" version correct?
    -Josh
    🇩🇪




    2002 01A Quattro
    K04-15 (Unitronic)

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Three Rings volvofan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Osher67 View Post
    I have the "B" variant , but want The drl "D" variant. Don't really care for headlight adjusting switch. I have all the wires from the "B" switch it's only one extra wire for the drl "D" version correct?
    AFAIK, that is correct... just one extra wire.
    2013 RS5 Coupe 57k; slower than an Apache... not by much.

    GO - ECS intake; LWCP / LWFW / FP; Kline headers & exh; HFCs
    STOP - Forgestar F14s; Michelin Pilot Sport AS4; Voshmods rear BBK; CCBs x4
    TURN - ALL the braces; EuroCode sways; PowerFlex inserts; KW HAS; SPC UCAs
    PROTECT - RMR xmsn cooler / bar; ECS shields; JXB bearing; AG battery
    A/V - RSNav S4 10.25"; JL 8W1V3 sub; Alpine MRV-M500 amp; lighted sills/rings
    OTHER - Weathertech; Ziza LEDs; RMR hoses; ALL the carbon fiber

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Three Rings Osher67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by volvofan View Post
    AFAIK, that is correct... just one extra wire.
    Do you know where that wire gose from the switch? I had a connector pigtail somewhere for the switch with the wires, but didn't find out where the extra wire went. I believe it was white with a red stripe.
    -Josh
    🇩🇪




    2002 01A Quattro
    K04-15 (Unitronic)

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Three Rings volvofan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Osher67 View Post
    Do you know where that wire gose from the switch? I had a connector pigtail somewhere for the switch with the wires, but didn't find out where the extra wire went. I believe it was white with a red stripe.
    From my first post above:

    CH/LH & DRL SWITCH:
    Connect pin 3 to pin 30 on T32b of CECM (should be empty)... this is for the DRL switch.
    From pins 4 and 8, splice to pin 1 on the headlight switch (do not CUT the wire going to pin 1... it comes from pin 20 on T32b and supplies power to a bunch of stuff)
    From pin 5, splice to pin 10 on the headlight switch (again... do not CUT. That's the ground)
    Connect pin 7 to pin 24 on T32b of CECM (should be empty)... this is for the CH/LH switch.


    If you only have the CH/LH switch (B variant), you will only have pins in 4, 5, 7, and 8. If you have the combination CH/LH and DRL switch (D variant), pin 3 is the added one.

    -Jon
    2013 RS5 Coupe 57k; slower than an Apache... not by much.

    GO - ECS intake; LWCP / LWFW / FP; Kline headers & exh; HFCs
    STOP - Forgestar F14s; Michelin Pilot Sport AS4; Voshmods rear BBK; CCBs x4
    TURN - ALL the braces; EuroCode sways; PowerFlex inserts; KW HAS; SPC UCAs
    PROTECT - RMR xmsn cooler / bar; ECS shields; JXB bearing; AG battery
    A/V - RSNav S4 10.25"; JL 8W1V3 sub; Alpine MRV-M500 amp; lighted sills/rings
    OTHER - Weathertech; Ziza LEDs; RMR hoses; ALL the carbon fiber

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Three Rings Osher67's Avatar
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    Finally! Successful install of Auto headlight switch, CH/LH switch, and DRL switch

    Quote Originally Posted by volvofan View Post
    From my first post above:

    CH/LH & DRL SWITCH:
    Connect pin 3 to pin 30 on T32b of CECM (should be empty)... this is for the DRL switch.
    From pins 4 and 8, splice to pin 1 on the headlight switch (do not CUT the wire going to pin 1... it comes from pin 20 on T32b and supplies power to a bunch of stuff)
    From pin 5, splice to pin 10 on the headlight switch (again... do not CUT. That's the ground)
    Connect pin 7 to pin 24 on T32b of CECM (should be empty)... this is for the CH/LH switch.


    If you only have the CH/LH switch (B variant), you will only have pins in 4, 5, 7, and 8. If you have the combination CH/LH and DRL switch (D variant), pin 3 is the added one.

    -Jon
    Thanks, this helped a lot. My pins came in today that I had to order for the t32b connector I have a question tho it would seam pin 3 on the ch/lh switch gose to pin 30 on the t32b grey cecm connector
    But I have a wire for the auto dim mirror that was supposed to go there?

    Blue wire with red stripe that runs though orange connector at driver kick panel up to roof harness to auto dim mirror connector.

    Here's s pic I've been taking everything I need from a 2005 b6 s4
    You can see the original wire in talking about 3 to the last on the right of the connector.
    Blue wire red stripe
    Last edited by Osher67; 06-08-2017 at 04:11 PM.
    -Josh
    🇩🇪




    2002 01A Quattro
    K04-15 (Unitronic)

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Three Rings volvofan's Avatar
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    If you have a B6 instead of a B7 it may be different.
    2013 RS5 Coupe 57k; slower than an Apache... not by much.

    GO - ECS intake; LWCP / LWFW / FP; Kline headers & exh; HFCs
    STOP - Forgestar F14s; Michelin Pilot Sport AS4; Voshmods rear BBK; CCBs x4
    TURN - ALL the braces; EuroCode sways; PowerFlex inserts; KW HAS; SPC UCAs
    PROTECT - RMR xmsn cooler / bar; ECS shields; JXB bearing; AG battery
    A/V - RSNav S4 10.25"; JL 8W1V3 sub; Alpine MRV-M500 amp; lighted sills/rings
    OTHER - Weathertech; Ziza LEDs; RMR hoses; ALL the carbon fiber

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Three Rings Osher67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by volvofan View Post
    If you have a B6 instead of a B7 it may be different.
    Everything has been the same so far just I'm adding auto dimming mirrors too. And this is what I ran into
    I believe that must be a form of switched power.

    Thinking I might have to splice the two together on pin 30 of t32b grey connector


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    -Josh
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    2002 01A Quattro
    K04-15 (Unitronic)

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings onedumslack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by volvofan View Post

    HEADLIGHT SWITCH:
    Connect pins 7 and 16 to each other, and connect to pin 29 on T32b of the CECM. All should be empty on a baseline model that did not have the auto headlight switch before.
    Would you be able to clarify this a little more? I've installed the rain sensor and have the automatic wipers functioning. But I am having trouble getting the automatic headlights to work. On the back of the wiring harness that goes into the light switch there was nothing in pin 7 or pin 16. So I put repair wires into both of these and then a repair wire into pin 29 of the t32b connector on the j519 cecm module. And then spliced all three of these together.

    However when I plug to auto headlight switch in then the headlights turn on for all positions and doesn't turn off in daylight. Just like it did without the rain/light sensor.

    Am I doing this wiring correct? Am I missing another prerequisite that I didn't do?

  30. #30
    Veteran Member Three Rings volvofan's Avatar
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    There may be another reason why your headlights are always on, but from the sound of what you described you did in the first paragraph, the wiring portion is correct. Maybe check your VCDS coding?

    -Jon
    2013 RS5 Coupe 57k; slower than an Apache... not by much.

    GO - ECS intake; LWCP / LWFW / FP; Kline headers & exh; HFCs
    STOP - Forgestar F14s; Michelin Pilot Sport AS4; Voshmods rear BBK; CCBs x4
    TURN - ALL the braces; EuroCode sways; PowerFlex inserts; KW HAS; SPC UCAs
    PROTECT - RMR xmsn cooler / bar; ECS shields; JXB bearing; AG battery
    A/V - RSNav S4 10.25"; JL 8W1V3 sub; Alpine MRV-M500 amp; lighted sills/rings
    OTHER - Weathertech; Ziza LEDs; RMR hoses; ALL the carbon fiber

  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings onedumslack's Avatar
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    Do you know if CECM 8E0 907 279 F is required? Or is CECM 8E0 907 279 N good also?

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Three Rings volvofan's Avatar
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    Sorry, I'm not sure.

    -Jon
    2013 RS5 Coupe 57k; slower than an Apache... not by much.

    GO - ECS intake; LWCP / LWFW / FP; Kline headers & exh; HFCs
    STOP - Forgestar F14s; Michelin Pilot Sport AS4; Voshmods rear BBK; CCBs x4
    TURN - ALL the braces; EuroCode sways; PowerFlex inserts; KW HAS; SPC UCAs
    PROTECT - RMR xmsn cooler / bar; ECS shields; JXB bearing; AG battery
    A/V - RSNav S4 10.25"; JL 8W1V3 sub; Alpine MRV-M500 amp; lighted sills/rings
    OTHER - Weathertech; Ziza LEDs; RMR hoses; ALL the carbon fiber

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Three Rings Osher67's Avatar
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    California/so cal

    If I remember correctly CECM F variants are one of the few that works with auto headlights.

    Don't remember if there's another one that is used for auto headlights/drl/ext.

    I had to change mine.


    I'm unsure about the N variant I forget what one came with my car but it needed to be the F to work I read somewhere.


    I got all this wired and haven't even used it yet lol.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    -Josh
    🇩🇪




    2002 01A Quattro
    K04-15 (Unitronic)

  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings onedumslack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Osher67 View Post
    If I remember correctly CECM F variants are one of the few that works with auto headlights.

    Don't remember if there's another one that is used for auto headlights/drl/ext.

    I had to change mine.


    I'm unsure about the N variant I forget what one came with my car but it needed to be the F to work I read somewhere.


    I got all this wired and haven't even used it yet lol.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yeah, I've read that the F is the one but it looks like that might have been determined from a b6 before the N variant existed. Do you have a b6 or a b7?

  35. #35
    Veteran Member Four Rings onedumslack's Avatar
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    Today I came across a b7 with auto headlights at the junkyard so I got it's light switch and the oem switch has fixed my automatic headlights. Previously I had been trying to use a vemo branded one from ecs. The oem switch that worked is part 8E0 941 531 D

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