Turbo Break-In Proceedures

[A4SoftWalker]

So you now have a new turbo? Did you install it yourself or you had a shop do it for you? Either way it still needs to be broken in properly. How you do it is up to you its YOUR car, your investment. I've had a few PMs asking for turbo break-in tips and also seen a build thread or two asking for pointers. Here are a few guidelines to borrow from and/or add your own "special sauce" to.

Everyone has a different break in procedure. There are probably as many variations as there are shapes of snowflakes BUT that being said there are a few basic principles to follow during a turbo break in period:

1) Use new oil and coolant. A full oil and oil filter change goes almost without saying. I personally only replaced the coolant that drained out when replacing the turbo as my coolant was fairly new. Added about 60oz back in of 50-50 coolant distilled water mix.
2) Warm up and cool down turbo a bit more extensively then normal. Not only will this allow your bolts and all your mechanical bits to settle in but also to allow your ECU to adapt to its new role and the information coming to it from the sensors.
3) Check for leaks and loose bolts. It's not uncommon for these to manifest themselves within the 1st 1-3 tank fulls of gas. Be alert and in touch with what is going on under your hood.
4) Ensure all boost hoses are tight to avoid annoying hose blowoffs. Happens to the best of us. I would get all the way to the freeway ready to have some fun and be impressed and BOOM... darned boost hose blows off. I usually do my 1st pulls closer to my place and with a full set of tools and a jacket stand in the car. This will allow me to quickly pull over and reattach any potential hose that comes loose.
5) No need to avoid max boost but I usually drive the car in traffic for a good half hr to allow install oils to burn off. Last time when I installed my elim the smoke was coming out pretty steady for the whole duration I drove through traffic and slightly longer there after.
6) Only once I have done all of the above will I attempt the 1st full boost run. Another point of caution is to not attempt this without a boost guage intalled. Possible damage to turbo, engine or both could occur if something like the wastgate... etc is not properly set or malfunctioning.
7) Finally enjoy your new turbo but also plan for your 1st oil change to be a little sooner than normal by approximately 15-25% of your normal miles. Then feel free to resume your normal oil change schedule. This will give you 2 benefits: a) You can check out your turbo and engine bay for any strange leaks b) You can get rid of any debris or installation contaminants, or particles of who knows what - circulating about in your oil.

Happy boosting fellow Audiziners.

Edit...

P.S: Adding this even though it is not related to the actual turbo break-in process due to personal experience.

Check and double-check the locknut on your wastegate before install. Add loctite to secure it in place. If the nut breaks loose everything is coming off again to take the turbo out and fix that problem. Dont ask how I know...

[old guy]

One other tip. After you install the turbo but before you connect the oil supply line use an oil pump can to prime both the turbo as well as the turbo oil supply line. While oiling the turbo you can use your fingers to spin the turbo to make sure the oil coats everything.

[jacobsen]

I remove the oil supply line and put it in a container and I turn the car over with the injectors disconnected until oil is priming through the line then I reconnect the line to the turbo and I prime it off and on for a good 10 minutes

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[Seerlah]

You can prime the turbo with the stock oil pump. Issue is the intake air coming out the exhaust ports, which can still turn your CHRA while basically dry (minus supplied lubrication prior to delivery). You take out the spark plugs and leave the channels open for the air taken in for combustion to escape out where the ignition coils would sit, rather than exiting through the exhaust valves and spinning your CHRA. Unclip the injector connectors too, before priming.

Next, you leave the the drain line from the turbo off your oil out fitting and place something underneath it to catch the oil (ie little saucer). Now, you crank the engine 5-10 seconds on...5-10 seconds off. Throwing random numbers in, but don't burn your starter out in a nutshell. When you see oil come out the drain port into whatever you used to catch the oil, that means the oil has made it to the bearings of the turbocharger.

Priming of a new engine can be performed this same way, with priming the turbo at the same time. And a trick for noisy turbos you fear have a faint whistle, throw a little bit of Lucas Oil Stabilizer in your oil. Not too much and don't run it long, because this stuff is junk for your engine (froths). But the coating it places on the bearings of your turbo will prolong longevity. First hand experience tested, figuring that coating on that little wheel gizmo in Autozone (at the counter) must be able to coat the bearings of my turbo the same way. Worked flawlessly!!!