Top 5 B7 RS4 Problems

[ColumbiaImports]

Looking for expert advice on the most common (inevitable) problems with the B7 RS4. Seen threads of cracked engine blocks and so forth but want solid answers on what problems are from the manufacture vs driver error.

Just purchased a RS4 with 140,000 mi on it and assume something will go wrong eventually. Picking it up tomorrow so I'll have all the records on hand, but I'm excited to own one of my many dream cars!

Thanks for all help,

Dereck Deutz

[CoreyRS]

Keep your oil fresh, your carbon cleaned, your RPMs under 4-5k till she's warm, your fuel trims in check, your fuel injectors/filter clean, and enjoy the car.

Common problems with RS4 ownership:
1.) the attitude on RS4 forums :-)
2.) Wanting to go faster
3.) Expecting a 4000lb car to behave like a 2500lb car
4.) leaking DRC
5.) lack of maintenance

[Fourplay]

Most common issues:

Carbon buildup
DRC Leaks/Failures
Injector issues at high mileage (can clog, get stuck open, or just get dirty and cause the engine to run lean)
Not exactly an issue, but consumables are expensive (DIY brake job is $2k on the low end)

I don't think I've even had 5 total problems during my ownership. They're pretty reliable, no major faults like some of the competitors (head bolts in the C63 AMG and rod bearings in the E9x M3, both of which can kill a motor).

[d2a4]

Engine block cracked is out of ordinary, just want to be clear.

[Skeee]

like what four play said. the cost of maintenance of these cars are slightly expensive compare to the lower model like a4/s4. last year itself i spent about $6-8k alone on maintenance repair to keep my car running in tip-top shape.

most of that cost were, tires (they do go through some tires) depending on you driving style, brakes, carbon clean, your standard 40k service (spark plugs, filters etc.) oil changes and i did get and brand new OEM windshield which was my decision to go rather than the cheaper alternative.

Congrats and welcome to the group!

[Quattrors4]

I have only one ! not enough power !!!!!

[Ravage]

Issues for me so far that seem to be common:

Several intake issues (EPC light)
Leaking axle boots
Carbon cleaning
DRC
Sagging headliner

[ColumbiaImports]

Awesome, thanks for the insights guys. Can't wait until tomorrow! We'll get some pictures up here on Sunday.

Keep on suggesting other things to be aware of!

Thanks


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[Skeee]

O2 sensors are also a pretty common things that goes out in these cars. Idk if its just coincidence but I've gone through 2 OEM ones and a friend of mine has gone through 4 sets as well. I have a full exhaust system from awe and he has factory exhaust.

[Quattrors4]

O2 sensors are also a pretty common things that goes out in these cars. Idk if its just coincidence but I've gone through 2 OEM ones and a friend of mine has gone through 4 sets as well. I have a full exhaust system from awe and he has factory exhaust.

First cause of 02 going bad is oil ,our engines burn oil ,that's why they usely don't last long

[wednesday]

Carbon clean (car never makes full power because of this). This a huge deal because it results in a $600+ bill every 30k or so miles and car is already not fast with very highly priced upgrade options. You might as well change pcv and injectors at that time.

Injector issues are cropping up more and more. With engine costs upwards of $3k, add this as a maintenance item.

Pcv after 50k miles creates issues like oil consumption and leaks from o ring. I no longer have to top oil off every 2k miles or even 5k.

Drc, this is a hit or miss. I daily mine and have somewhere around 125k miles on the original Drc. I also have Hotchkiss sway bars, but no issues thankfully.

Control arms - this is a maintenance item so I won't fault "engineering" on this one. $350+ kit and some labor hours due to some pinch bolts.

Clutch. Now, this is worse or them all. During high rpm shifts, your clutch can get "sticky" and not pop back up. There are many reasons attributing to this. Aging clutch that is not due for a change, has to be changed. Slave cylinder and updated hose are suggested at this time as well. Due to this, it is not uncommon to find bad synchros in gears on used rs4's as the driver may have tried to slam them into a fear.

This is not as bad of a garage queen as the b5 s4s by any means, but be ready for downtime since lot of parts are usually not in stock.

I will shut up for now.

[Fourplay]

Carbon clean (car never makes full power because of this). This a huge deal because it results in a $600+ bill every 30k or so miles and car is already not fast with very highly priced upgrade options. You might as well change pcv and injectors at that time.

A $600 bill every 2 or 3 years is a "huge deal"? This is a car that was originally $75,000. New tires + an alignment runs at least $1500 and the tires last about 30k (MPSS). A brake job at the dealership is close to $4,000. $600 is not a big deal at all (although that is a good price on a carbon cleaning). These cars are (fleet average) approaching or exceeding 100k miles. There will be some fairly high maintenance costs on a high performance car with that kind of mileage.

However, the maintenance costs on this car are commensurate with its original price, and are honestly a lot cheaper than similarly priced cars from the same era. Look at the cost to maintain cars with similar prices and performance: Porsche 997, E60 M5, Maserati Gransport, E9x M3, E46 M3, C63 AMG, etc. You'll find that the RS4's costs to maintain are similar or much less than these cars. The only competitor I can think of that would definitely be cheaper to maintain is maybe an IS-F.

[wednesday]

A $600 bill every 2 or 3 years is a "huge deal"? This is a car that was originally $75,000. New tires + an alignment runs at least $1500 and the tires last about 30k (MPSS). A brake job at the dealership is close to $4,000. $600 is not a big deal at all (although that is a good price on a carbon cleaning). These cars are (fleet average) approaching or exceeding 100k miles. There will be some fairly high maintenance costs on a high performance car with that kind of mileage.

However, the maintenance costs on this car are commensurate with its original price, and are honestly a lot cheaper than similarly priced cars from the same era. Look at the cost to maintain cars with similar prices and performance: Porsche 997, E60 M5, Maserati Gransport, E9x M3, E46 M3, C63 AMG, etc. You'll find that the RS4's costs to maintain are similar or much less than these cars. The only competitor I can think of that would definitely be cheaper to maintain is maybe an IS-F.

$600 is on the low end. There is a bigger underlying problem that we run into when wanting to get CC done as well - not many shops do it and the ones that do, don't have pricing standardized.

Paid $900 here: https://goo.gl/A4jCuu

Members quoted at $1k and above $1,200 in here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...g-average-cost

This is a rare car and be ready to pay for "rare" prices. List goes on.

mmmmm. ISF. I had a run in with that at the track and that thing looked like a lot of fun. No manual of course, but still seemed fun..

Edit: Yes, I agree with you on costs in comparison to others.

[Fourplay]

$600 is on the low end. There is a bigger underlying problem that we run into when wanting to get CC done as well - not many shops do it and the ones that do, don't have pricing standardized.

Paid $900 here: https://goo.gl/A4jCuu

Members quoted at $1k and above $1,200 in here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...g-average-cost

I did it myself in my garage in about 8-10 hours. Took part of 2 days to get it done and it really wasn't difficult, just time consuming to get the manifold off and clean each port thoroughly. If I wasn't mechanically inclined or had no space to work, a local shop (Solo Motorsports) quotes $750 while the dealer quotes $2k. It's not cheap but it is pretty infrequent (every 3 years or so for me- I only drive 10k miles a year).

My point was that it's not a big deal - the car still runs (albeit not quite as well) even if you don't do it, whereas the competition have issues that will kill the motor if not dealt with (or in some cases kill the motor before you know there is an issue).

This is a rare car and be ready to pay for "rare" prices.

Couldn't agree more. Gotta pay to play, and this car isn't bad in the grand scheme of things.

[Gareth_oau]

self adjusting pressure plate

[ven0m]

1.) Carbon
2.) DRC suspension
3.) Injectors
4.) Transmission (Clutch slave cylinder line & 1-2 gear synchro and shift collar)
5.) Power steering (pump & return line)

[dualquad]

1.) Carbon
2.) DRC suspension
3.) Injectors
4.) Transmission (Clutch slave cylinder line & 1-2 gear synchro and shift collar)
5.) Power steering (pump & return line)

Regarding "1-2 gear synchro and shift collar", what does fixing this involve in terms of parts and labor? Opening up the transmission probably means $3K-5K+?

[outsider6661]

Regarding "1-2 gear synchro and shift collar", what does fixing this involve in terms of parts and labor? Opening up the transmission probably means $3K-5K+?

Yup! In and around there price wise. I would have the whole assembly rebuilt while it's apart just for peice of mind.

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[ven0m]

Regarding "1-2 gear synchro and shift collar", what does fixing this involve in terms of parts and labor? Opening up the transmission probably means $3K-5K+?

If you know a guy, that knows a guy, that his second cousins daughters uncle knows a guy.... that has the two special Audi tools for holding the input and output shaft. You can come through the job fairly cheap(ish) yourself. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...on-Disassembly

If you let a shop do it, take int account the labour for a clutch job and add on top off that:
- disassembling the trans
- inspecting the assembly
- exchanging the updated shift collar and synchro
- exchanging any other worn part IF NEEDED (these trans are quite robust)
- assembling the thing with new gaskets and fluid

JHM offers the service of a rebuild and install of updated parts and it's not over 3k$. (You can also just get all the parts from them for 1k and DIY)
https://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catal...ar-p-1508.html

[outsider6661]

If you know a guy, that knows a guy, that his second cousins daughters uncle knows a guy.... that has the two special Audi tools for holding the input and output shaft. You can come through the job fairly cheap(ish) yourself. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...on-Disassembly

If you let a shop do it, take int account the labour for a clutch job and add on top off that:
- disassembling the trans
- inspecting the assembly
- exchanging the updated shift collar and synchro
- exchanging any other worn part IF NEEDED (these trans are quite robust)
- assembling the thing with new gaskets and fluid

JHM offers the service of a rebuild and install of updated parts and it's not over 3k$. (You can also just get all the parts from them for 1k and DIY)
https://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catal...ar-p-1508.html

That will be well over 3k Canadian considering that he lives in Toronto, Canada. The exchange rate, duty and shipping is where we incur the extra charges. Only other option is to ship to an American address and pick it up yourself.

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[S4Bennett]

Some issues that haven't been mentioned...
- Valve cover gaskets that leak into the spark Plug wells
- HPFP
- shift linkage cross rod ball & socket separation (see JHM for solution)
- breaking the oil filter cap during oil changes because the snap fit just doesn't want to let go (see ECS Tuning for billet cap solution)
- runs low on gas all the time

I don't think any of these are top 5 given most are low cost/low severity when they do fail, however the % of cars affected might as well be 100% with enough time.

[blubusdrvr]

Someone mentioned control arms already but also plan on the lines going to/from the oil cooler to corrode depending on what environment the car has lived in. A lot of times it's so bad the entire oil cooler AND lines need to be replaced. JHM makes a great line only kit if you can get the lines off the cooler. If you bugger up the cooler as well, Forge makes a kit that replaces it all and actually relocates the oil cooler higher in the car. I have done both. In fact I have a used (stock) oil cooler and some slightly used JHM lines (less than 1000 miles) that I'll sell. Congrats on the purchase and good luck.

[MayhemLikeMatt]

Let's see some pictures :) Also, how much did you pay for your RS4? By the time I'm ready to get one they will all likely be high mileage examples. Congrats on your purchase!


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[ColumbiaImports]

(Deleted comment)

[mattshaver]

Issues I've had that aren't maintenance:
- throttle body
- intake manifold solenoid
- DRC

[stanglife]

I'm going to throw AC compressor on the list. My last car killed it at 6xk miles. When I started looking around for information, I noticed a trend of them failing in many Audis under 75k.

FYI - don't pay too much for a compressor. I bought an "OEM" one from a popular company and when it arrived, it was some other part number and some other brand - different from the pictures even. I could have bought the one they sent for hundreds less on rockauto.com

[ColumbiaImports]

Good to know. What are you guys paying for insurance one these things?

Thinking about just getting the basic liability..


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[Striddy]

Occasional sticky clutch, very random, and that's it. These cars are bullet proof!

[blubusdrvr]

Good to know. What are you guys paying for insurance one these things?

Thinking about just getting the basic liability..


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I'd be weary of just putting liability on these cars. I just had a slight bottom out on a crowned road and didn't want to involve insurance. Needless to say it ended up costing me thousands. Parts for this thing are rare and expensive.

[Fourplay]

Good to know. What are you guys paying for insurance one these things?

Thinking about just getting the basic liability..


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There are so many factors with insurance, it's tough to compare between 2 people, but here is my breakdown:

Mine is about $800 for 6 months, but that's with multi-line discounts. $2 million umbrella with $500K/$1MM/$500K coverage, $100 deductible. Never had a claim before, no tickets (knock on wood). Car is driven under 10K miles a year and garaged as well. I'm a 26 year-old male with a college degree and good grades (somehow I still get the good student discount, even though it's been 6 years since I graduated).

I would advise strongly against only putting liability on this car.

[koolade9]

Clutch. Now, this is worse or them all. During high rpm shifts, your clutch can get "sticky" and not pop back up. There are many reasons attributing to this. Aging clutch that is not due for a change, has to be changed. Slave cylinder and updated hose are suggested at this time as well.

"Aging clutch" isn't a thing. The updated fluid feed hose from the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder is a thing. If that has not been replaced yet, it should be, and if the car has gone 10 years without that issue resolved, I'm not surprised you're having clutch/trans issues. Most of us had this changed out many years ago when the car was still under warranty.

[CoreyRS]

"Aging clutch" isn't a thing. The updated fluid feed hose from the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder is a thing. If that has not been replaced yet, it should be, and if the car has gone 10 years without that issue resolved, I'm not surprised you're having clutch/trans issues. Most of us had this changed out many years ago when the car was still under warranty.

You have a part number by chance? I am interested in doing this. I went to JHM for other maintenance and asked them to check out the slave and replace if necessary but they didn't seem familiar with the sticking clutch phenomenon that I occasionally experience. Either way they said my slave looked fine.

[koolade9]

You have a part number by chance? I am interested in doing this. I went to JHM for other maintenance and asked them to check out the slave and replace if necessary but they didn't seem familiar with the sticking clutch phenomenon that I occasionally experience. Either way they said my slave looked fine.

Bounce your vin off the dealer to see if that TSB has been performed already. People don't bring it up anymore since most cars have had this addressed, but it's reasonable to assume that there are a few cars out there that slipped through the cracks and never had this done.

[blubusdrvr]

Bounce your vin off the dealer to see if that TSB has been performed already. People don't bring it up anymore since most cars have had this addressed, but it's reasonable to assume that there are a few cars out there that slipped through the cracks and never had this done.

Some guys on here work for at/for Audi and can research TSBs. I wouldn't mind finding out what mine is missing as well...

[ColumbiaImports]

Some issues that haven't been mentioned...
- Valve cover gaskets that leak into the spark Plug wells
- HPFP
- shift linkage cross rod ball & socket separation (see JHM for solution)
- breaking the oil filter cap during oil changes because the snap fit just doesn't want to let go (see ECS Tuning for billet cap solution)
- runs low on gas all the time

I don't think any of these are top 5 given most are low cost/low severity when they do fail, however the % of cars affected might as well be 100% with enough time.

Did you ever fix the problem of valve cover gaskets? I think I might have this issue but only on the right side..


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[ven0m]

You have a part number by chance? I am interested in doing this. I went to JHM for other maintenance and asked them to check out the slave and replace if necessary but they didn't seem familiar with the sticking clutch phenomenon that I occasionally experience. Either way they said my slave looked fine.

I'm also dealing with an occasional sticky clutch. When I bought my car the issue was very frequent, but it went away after replacing the brake fluid and bleeding the clutch properly 3 times in a row every 5k km. Now it happens maybe 1x in 2 months.

My friend and AZ user SeattleSquash did a clutch job recently (worn clutch and sticky-clutch issue) and he went the recommended USP full metal slave cylinder + stainless steel braided clutch line route. (the OEM part is plastick and hose is rubber - it collapses when you release the pedal and keeps the clutch "sticking") This was recommended in some topics and it worked for him, he says the car is like revived and the clutch razor sharp. I'm planning on doing the same shortly as my clutch feels like it's at the end of its lifespan. Need to import some more parts from the US anyway.

Link to part:
http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Drivet...onversion.html

[blubusdrvr]

Link to part:
http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Drivet...onversion.html

interesting... (something else to spend my money on!)

[ColumbiaImports]

Has anybody had problems with the p4040 2020 error codes? Believe they are vacuum tubes?

Thanks


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[ColumbiaImports]

Car runs great just have some codes coming up. P0404 and I believe 2020.. they seem like temporary issues that don't have any significance besides loose vacuum fittings..

Please let me know if you've had this problem or have fixed it.

Thanks,

[mwcoyle]

Some issues that haven't been mentioned...
- Valve cover gaskets that leak into the spark Plug wells
- HPFP
- shift linkage cross rod ball & socket separation (see JHM for solution)
- breaking the oil filter cap during oil changes because the snap fit just doesn't want to let go (see ECS Tuning for billet cap solution)
- runs low on gas all the time

I don't think any of these are top 5 given most are low cost/low severity when they do fail, however the % of cars affected might as well be 100% with enough time.

Lol, just replaced my cracked cap also!


Sprint Blue B7 RS4