Press Fit Wheel Studs

[Bordom]

Topic of discussion: Press fit wheel studs

Why press fit? Because two of my bolt holes on the hubs are cross threaded. I've found one detailed thread where the guy did a press fit stud conversion here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ge=1&_k=xh3ajv

The only issue with the OP post in the link is that his stud length is 3", whereas I'd like to have them around 2.5" total length. Later in the thread they get into some confusing Imperial-metric-imperial conversions and I don't understand imperial at that low of a measurement.

Helpful input is appreciated. The easier I can keep this to m14x1.5 the better instead of using whatever lug sizes OP used. I'd even consider m12x1.5.

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[Seerlah]

Years later, switching back to bolts. Front studs suck getting back out, but rears are back to lug bolts.

[fR3ZNO]

Instead of messing around with studs, why not just helicoil the cross threaded holes? Or possibly just chase the threads depending on how bad it is.

[JVD]

Years later, switching back to bolts. Front studs suck getting back out, but rears are back to lug bolts.

You had press fit studs? How are you able to switch back?

I've considered switching from my threaded conversion but haven't had any come out with my lug nuts in a while. Fresh studs/fresh lug nuts mind you... Previous set was a pain as ~ half of the studs would come out along with the lug nuts.

[jimmer009]

I personally would get a new hub. Thats that's the best way. I have a the bolt conversation. But if I was worried about them backing out I would put a spot of weld on them.( Lug nuts is one of those spots where you can't say,"cross threaded is tight" lol)

[alphaVR]

You had press fit studs? How are you able to switch back?

I've considered switching from my threaded conversion but haven't had any come out with my lug nuts in a while. Fresh studs/fresh lug nuts mind you... Previous set was a pain as ~ half of the studs would come out along with the lug nuts.

Threaded are fine, but you need to use red LocTite (iirc) to ensure they stay put once torqued down (~30ft/lbs).

OP, I'm not exactly sure what your question is, but I wouldn't worry about length too much. Its certainly helpful if you ever decide/need to run spacers.

I would never consider helicoil'ing hub threads if only because lugs are typically torqued to 90ft/lbs and I simply do not trust a helicoil to hold that much torque (plus side loads during cornering). Last thing anyone would ever want is a lug bolt falling out.

[CJ_]

I did it! This is my information from that thread you posted. Been running them for over almost 2 years now. One of my favorite mods by far

I did this mod using these ARP M12 studs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this bit (14mm):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...tex-convert-20

Has worked perfectly for a few months, been taking my wheels on and off quite a bit too. I run muteki lugs with 20mm spacers and still have plenty of room on the studs.

[alphaVR]

I did it! This is my information from that thread. Been running them for over almost 2 years now. One of my favorite mods by far

Your links are broken

[CJ_]

Oops sorry, Used these studs: ARP 1007717

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Any 14mm drill bit should do the trick with these

Edit: Fixed links above, drill bit now shows up too

[julex]

press fit studs are awesome.

After years of fighting with wheel bolts I initially purchased screw in set a while ago and run it with spacers. Eventually I figured out a formula for rim, its offset and wheel size, settled on OEM audi R8 rims 8.5x19 for front and rear (This is for 01 Allroad) and at that time I purchased bolts-to-studs wheel adapters (H&R Trak+ I think it is called).

Adapters attach with bolts to hub and present press in studs for wheel side.

There is simply no comparison in comfort when changing wheels between bolts and studs especially if you also have a loose spacer sandwiched in there.

[fR3ZNO]

I would never consider helicoil'ing hub threads if only because lugs are typically torqued to 90ft/lbs and I simply do not trust a helicoil to hold that much torque (plus side loads during cornering). Last thing anyone would ever want is a lug bolt falling out.

Helicoils are stronger than the original tapped hole. I helicoil'd my sway bar (B6, blind tapped hole). That is torqued to 55ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn IIRC. It also undergoes repeated loading during cornering. I personally don't see an issue.

But to each their own.

I was suggesting it as a cheaper alternative to buying a new hub and having to press it out, which would also require a new wheel bearing.

[Bordom]

I did it! This is my information from that thread you posted. Been running them for over almost 2 years now. One of my favorite mods by far

I should have put two and two together lol. I've been reading all night about the conversion and knurl Dia. And the size of the hole.

That thread made me think too much lol. There's a number of studs that would have worked, and I narrowed it down to a few Dorman ones and ARP 1007708. Didn't really want 3" studs, simply because I didn't ever plan to run over 15mm spacers.

press fit studs are awesome.

After years of fighting with wheel bolts I initially purchased screw in set a while ago and run it with spacers. Eventually I figured out a formula for rim, its offset and wheel size, settled on OEM audi R8 rims 8.5x19 for front and rear (This is for 01 Allroad) and at that time I purchased bolts-to-studs wheel adapters (H&R Trak+ I think it is called).

Adapters attach with bolts to hub and present press in studs for wheel side.

There is simply no comparison in comfort when changing wheels between bolts and studs especially if you also have a loose spacer sandwiched in there.

After pricing it out, it would have been almost $150 for press in studs, vs the thread in type. I'm going to tap the bolt hole first and see what happens, if not I'll helicoil it and be done. Eventually, press fit studs would be the way to go. Easy to replace if you ever need to

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[spacecadet]

Dear god, please don't helicoil your stud holes.

[JVD]

Lol. Wheel studs "too much?"

Come on, man. It's a B5 S4. You'll spend more than that on a rubber hose someday. :)

[Seerlah]

You had press fit studs? How are you able to switch back?

I've considered switching from my threaded conversion but haven't had any come out with my lug nuts in a while. Fresh studs/fresh lug nuts mind you... Previous set was a pain as ~ half of the studs would come out along with the lug nuts.

No. Meaning studs in general with tuner lugs for a clean look. Getting older and going for simplicity now (flat fives picked up for summer), and want to run black bolts (black car) for a cleanish look. But taking studs off after years of weather and heat is making it a chore, with a rust seal. I'll probably have to use acetylene.

[Bordom]

Helicoils are stronger than the original tapped hole. I helicoil'd my sway bar (B6, blind tapped hole). That is torqued to 55ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn IIRC. It also undergoes repeated loading during cornering. I personally don't see an issue.

But to each their own.

I was suggesting it as a cheaper alternative to buying a new hub and having to press it out, which would also require a new wheel bearing.

Thanks for that info.

Lol. Wheel studs "too much?"

Come on, man. It's a B5 S4. You'll spend more than that on a rubber hose someday. :)

Oh, power steering lines are going to be that much pretty soon haha

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[fR3ZNO]

Dear god, please don't helicoil your stud holes.

Thank you for that enlightening and knowledgeable post.

Only potential issue I see with a helicoil is it might back out when installing/removing the lug bolts, since it's a through hole.

[kdf8454]

Thank you for that enlightening and knowledgeable post.

Only potential issue I see with a helicoil is it might back out when installing/removing the lug bolts, since it's a through hole.

You also have to drill out the holes significantly larger to accommodate the thread OD of the helicoil - which I don't think will work in this case based on how much material is between the hole and the outer edge of the hub.

Probably easiest to press a new hub in or convert to studs...

[fR3ZNO]

You also have to drill out the holes significantly larger to accommodate the thread OD of the helicoil - which I don't think will work in this case based on how much material is between the hole and the outer edge of the hub.

Probably easiest to press a new hub in or convert to studs...

That's true. I forgot how close the holes were to the OD.

Thanks.

[CJ_]

I should have put two and two together lol. I've been reading all night about the conversion and knurl Dia. And the size of the hole.

That thread made me think too much lol. There's a number of studs that would have worked, and I narrowed it down to a few Dorman ones and ARP 1007708. Didn't really want 3" studs, simply because I didn't ever plan to run over 15mm spacers.

Here's a pic of what my 3" studs look like with extended lugs. I used to run 20mm spacers so thats why I went with the long ones, but now I'm happy with the look even without spacers. Might try shorter lugs and see what it looks like.

The reason why I went with these over the ones posted in vwvortex is the thread pattern. A lot more lug choices available for 12x1.5 over standard.

Anyone wanting to try this, keep in mind head of the stud on the fronts need to be grinded down on the inside as they will rub on the upright.

[Bordom]

You also have to drill out the holes significantly larger to accommodate the thread OD of the helicoil - which I don't think will work in this case based on how much material is between the hole and the outer edge of the hub.

Probably easiest to press a new hub in or convert to studs...

That's true. I forgot how close the holes were to the OD.

Thanks.

Time-serts would be better suited for this. Plus, in the thread I linked, they used a 14mm drill bit and there was still some visible threads, along with more than enough material.

Here's a pic of what my 3" studs look like with extended lugs. I used to run 20mm spacers so thats why I went with the long ones, but now I'm happy with the look even without spacers. Might try shorter lugs and see what it looks like.

The reason why I went with these over the ones posted in vwvortex is the thread pattern. A lot more lug choices available for 12x1.5 over standard.

Anyone wanting to try this, keep in mind head of the stud on the fronts need to be grinded down on the inside as they will rub on the upright.

Mmm, those look good. Still set on 2.5" though. Hopefully tapping the holes will do at some point. If not, a Time-sert or helicoil would do fine

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