Evap canister delete or replace

[s4BoostKing]

Mine is shot, I can't put more than a 1/4 gallon of fuel in at a time before the pump stops. I was gonna replace it until I saw the price for one is around $250.. Then I saw about deleting it.. What exactly are the pros and more importantly the cons of deleting it.. I didn't see much info on that, but only diys

[vavJETTAw36]

It'll make your car smell like gas from the extra fumes


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[Trb1]

False. I don't understand why everyone jumps to that. It will not smell like fumes what so ever if you do it properly. I personally have done it and you MAYBE will get a whiff outside of the car once and a while when filling up. I've never smelled gas inside my car.

Pros:
You remove like 10 lbs of junk from your car. You can remove a bunch of lines in the engine bay/the n80 system.. You can also remove your leak detection pump. You'll just have to get these things coded out. It really cleans up the engine bay on top of fixing your fueling issue. Just make sure you're not in an emissions state..

Has your fuel pump been replaced? I'd look at your fuel fill door in tank. The evap delete didn't do jack to help fix my fuel fill problem. It's definitely an in tank issue. For me at least.

[axnjaksn]

^ I disagree....fuel smell will eventually fill your garage, driveway...wherever you park..maybe not right away but eventually

[S4tech2]

False. I don't understand why everyone jumps to that. It will not smell like fumes what so ever if you do it properly. I personally have done it and you MAYBE will get a whiff outside of the car once and a while when filling up. I've never smelled gas inside my car.

Pros:
You remove like 10 lbs of junk from your car. You can remove a bunch of lines in the engine bay/the n80 system.. You can also remove your leak detection pump. You'll just have to get these things coded out. It really cleans up the engine bay on top of fixing your fueling issue. Just make sure you're not in an emissions state..

Has your fuel pump been replaced? I'd look at your fuel fill door in tank. The evap delete didn't do jack to help fix my fuel fill problem. It's definitely an in tank issue. For me at least.

I would personally like more info on how you deleted the Evap stuff, maybe a write up? Also how do you vent the fuel tank?

[slowSfaux]

I would personally like more info on how you deleted the Evap stuff, maybe a write up? Also how do you vent the fuel tank?

This. If you have no way for the tank to vent, it can rupture from the pressure. Especially if you live in a hot climate where that fuel tries to expand in the heat of the day.

[Trb1]

I would personally like more info on how you deleted the Evap stuff, maybe a write up? Also how do you vent the fuel tank?

This. If you have no way for the tank to vent, it can rupture from the pressure. Especially if you live in a hot climate where that fuel tries to expand in the heat of the day.

Essentially everything in this photo is removed. From charcoal canister to leak detection pump to n80 and associated lines. At the vacuum reservoir in the drivers side wheel well I removed the "T" and it just directly connects to the n249 system now. Interesting that the 2.7 has a shared vacuum reservoir and the 1.8s use separate ones for each system. Anyways.

The only line that is retained in the whole system is line "5" in this picture.



It vents to atmosphere and a filter is placed over it.

Yeah, fuel vapors are "vented" to atmosphere, but it's so minute and the placement is so far below/behind the car that it doesn't penetrate the cabin. Also, safety mechanisms are retained up at the spout, so in case of a roll over you're not going to be dumping fuel.

It's basically like running a vented gas cap. Except you're venting behind the car as opposed to out of the gas cap. I suppose if you're really concerned you could always cap the port and just run a vented gas cap instead.

The purpose of the n80 is to retain the fuel vapors on fill up and burn them instead of venting them. It's kind of like how the pcv system works. That's the reason for tuning it out. I effects fuel trims. I'm not sure to the specifics, but I believe it's only on a cold start.

The gas tank needs to breathe in general. People worry about the fumes spewing out. But while driving you're actually causing a vacuum draw on the gas tank vent. This is because as you use fuel air needs to replace it or else you get a crumpled piece of plastic for a tank.

[S4tech2]

Oh ok I see what you are saying, you actually answered acouple of questions in there too about roll over. If this does intact work as well as you say it does then this would be a great thing to especially if you have issue with your charcoal canister.

[s4BoostKing]

I live in Pennsylvania which is an emissions state. So would deleting the Evap canister fail me in the emissions test?

[Trb1]

I live in Pennsylvania which is an emissions state. So would deleting the Evap canister fail me in the emissions test?

All sorts of yes

[Seerlah]

There are people who just bypass the charcoal the canister, while keeping everything else intact. Meaning, just route the lines with more tube and bypass it. Or pick up a used ebay one. That is what I did years ago, still holding strong.

[s4BoostKing]

Shit so I have no choice but to replace it

[Seerlah]

Unless you want to raise your blood pressure with every tank of gas (assuming), I suggest you choose one of a few options. Most ways I know are posted in this thread. Ebay used did ke justice till this day...but there is always the ebay gamble. If choosing this route gauge potential seller by feedback and warranty. Not hard to swap, and a warranty should entitle you to your money back if you recieve a flunk.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...er-replacement

[s4BoostKing]

Got a used one for $50 so I'll swap it and hope for the best

[Seerlah]

Same route I took for roughly the same price. Good decision, with viable choices presented.

[Mille Bornes]

I live in Pennsylvania which is an emissions state. So would deleting the Evap canister fail me in the emissions test?

I think that depends on where you live and what manner of testing they do, along with where you take your car to. If you live in a county that does the OBDII test then technically you could pass. There's no visual inspection of emissions components for the OBDII test since the tester just looks for fault codes and trusts your car's ecm to tell it what's up. So, if you have all of your emissions stuff properly coded out and monitors set to ready, you should pass.

Now, if venting the fuel tank to atmosphere makes your car wreak of gas then you might have some problems.

Some counties only require a visual inspection and gas cap test, others require two speed idle or a dyno test. It should be noted that the OBDII test also includes a gas cap test so a vented cap won't work.

A lot of it also comes down who is running your emissions test. Some guys are chill, some are sticklers.


In any case, getting a used canister is probably the easiest thing to do. But you probably could manage to get by

[insomniacxp1]

Couldn't I evacuate every piece of evap related shit in my car except the purge line from can to engine bay. Affix line directly to tank. Put a 1 way check valve inline. Route line to exhaust for an afterburner effect. Will I gain awhp from this?

[s4BoostKing]

Replaced canister with a used one. And now all problems have gone away

[Seerlah]

Good to hear. As I mentioned prior, I took the same route and has worked for me too.