AWD- blew a tire. Do I really need a whole new set?

[vex3000]

As the title says, I hit a pothole and blew one of my tires.

My spare is a full sized tire and rim which is on now, but it's a different brand than the rest.

The tread is decent on all the tires so I don't feel great about having to buy a whole new set as recommended.

Thoughts?

[Ian1006]

Buy a used exact same tire off eBay that has similar tread depth if your tires are still in good shape. Friend just did it on his Subaru and it was 1/32 more tread depth vs the other ones which doesn't matter and you don't buy 4 new tires.

[BlueBoostedAudi]

No it will be fine

[superswiss]

Audi's stated requirement for quattro is that all four tires are the same size, brand and tread pattern and tread wear to be within 4/32" of each other. If your other tires still have at least 6/32" on them, then you are fine with just one new tire. A new tire has a tread depth of 10/32". If they are below 6/32", then places like Tirerack offer tire shaving services. They will shave down the new tire to the desired tread depth.

[jacobsen]

I can tell you don't mess with your differentials. It matters. You should have a tread depth gauge... the pinion bearing is the thing in question in this case I believe? You can mess It Up by running low tire pressure on one tire for too long. Basically they all just need to be even.

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[f0reignfeatures]

No it will be fine

Bad advice.

I was in your position last year and decided to just run my spare on the driver's side. It was the same exact size but had a different tread pattern. My tires had about 8/32"s and the spare had 5/32"s.

To start it made terrible noise all the time. Eventually, and more importantly, it caused the opposite tire to wear unevenly after a few weeks and threw the car out of alignment.

Luckily I found the same tire as the other 3 used after searching online for a while. After installing it things were improved but the car would wobble terribly above 60mph. The ESP would also kick on at high speed turns. This was caused by the uneven wear on the other tire.

In the end I had to buy one more of the same tire, which was available, plus an alignment for things run right again.

Long story short, buy the same tire with a similar tread depth as mentioned above. Otherwise you may have to replace more tires anyways and get an alignment, costing you more money and headaches in the long run. Good luck!

[RileyM]

Don't risk it. There is a reason professional tire places tell you they will only install a whole new set. The avoided liability of ruining axles and differentials, is worth customers getting upset about having to buy a new set of tires. Everybody gets upset when you tell them this, unless they have heard it before. Even the vehicles that have auto 4wd, that you can set to 2wd only, they require new ones. It stings now, but maybe you can sell your other three to someone with a FWD/RWD. I have one that is "out of round", has to stay on the back axle. Ruins my rotation schedule, and will cost me miles. Otherwise the whole car shakes. (Tires came with the car.) Sorry to hear about your tire.

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[bendover4dover]

With selling tires for a living, being what most consider a "professional" and constantly getting asked this exact question on a daily basis.
YES it does matter. I always recommend them being within 2/32nds. I think 4/32nds is excessive seeing most tire you will get for a Quattro only come with around 8-10/32nds. But I'm no Audi engineer. You can potentially cause big time issues with differentials.
Just as RileyM said. It's much easier to deal with a customer not liking your professional opinion, than having to fix their axles and differentials and them being even more upset that you didn't diagnose and take the proper steps for their vehicle. It does suck major jolly balls buying a fresh new set, but it's much better than the alternative.
And getting a tread depth gauge is always great for anyone to have. I keep one in my car. If you can manage to find a used one within 2/32nds make sure you measure all the way across the tread. Both inside and outside shoulders as well as the middle. Bc we all know about camber, toe, etc.
if someone had bad camber, you can measure the outside tread and it will be 8/32nds, then the inside could be 6/32nds.
It doesn't seem like a big deal, but I've seen and had to deal with the repercussions. THOSE suck much more jolly balls.
RileyM is spot on.
Hope it works out my friend.


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[bendover4dover]

Also as far as your spare tire, I always tell people to treat them as if it were a run flat tire. 50 miles at most.
I can almost guarantee that your spare has a DOT as old as the car, dry rotting and has this glossy looking finish. Which are the oils and rubber compound degrading.
I nearly totaled my nearly mint e30 because the tires were 12 years old and slick as KY jelly.
Tire retailers, as well as manufacturers, are always having mail in rebates, so ask for that if you resort to the fresh set. And it can't hurt to see what they will do on the price. It's not like you'll get kicked out for asking.


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[Kevin C]

You can buy a new tire and have it shaved.

[Gin+]

I've been down this road with a mismatched front/rear set on two separate occasions . Car immediately drives weird with odd steering pull over uneven road especially. I know a lot of people seem to be able to get away with it but for me it just hasn't worked out.

[SJorge3442]

Just put 4 new tires on caues I had a slashed sidewall in one. Tires had 7/32"s left. Tire pattern was discontinued. Trashed the slashed on, kept one for a spare, and I'm selling the other 2 on craigslist.

[deyrag]

If the 3 remaining ones are so worn as to be outside the tolerance then they are probably almost due to be replaced anyway. Two things never to try to be cheap with is tires and brakes.

[texasboy21]

Replace the entire set.

[Charles.waite]

With selling tires for a living, being what most consider a "professional" and constantly getting asked this exact question on a daily basis.
YES it does matter. I always recommend them being within 2/32nds. I think 4/32nds is excessive seeing most tire you will get for a Quattro only come with around 8-10/32nds. But I'm no Audi engineer. You can potentially cause big time issues with differentials.
Just as RileyM said. It's much easier to deal with a customer not liking your professional opinion, than having to fix their axles and differentials and them being even more upset that you didn't diagnose and take the proper steps for their vehicle. It does suck major jolly balls buying a fresh new set, but it's much better than the alternative.
And getting a tread depth gauge is always great for anyone to have. I keep one in my car. If you can manage to find a used one within 2/32nds make sure you measure all the way across the tread. Both inside and outside shoulders as well as the middle. Bc we all know about camber, toe, etc.
if someone had bad camber, you can measure the outside tread and it will be 8/32nds, then the inside could be 6/32nds.
It doesn't seem like a big deal, but I've seen and had to deal with the repercussions. THOSE suck much more jolly balls.
RileyM is spot on.
Hope it works out my friend.


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This is good advice. Do this.

[Psyten]

A few months back I had a similar dilemma. Slashed sidewall on one which was replaced with a new model continental tire under Road hazard. Although they looked very similar I struggled with the decision for a little while. The guys on these forums were very helpful and the Audi dealer who wasn't trying to sell me tires even test drive the car and felt I could get away with it. When I asked if he saw problems with differentials, he hesitantly said "rarely" but they do happen........in the end I decided to play it safe and buy three new matching tires. It was painful to spend the money knowing I was replacing three tires with only 8,000 miles on them. However, a fellow forum member was in a similar situation and bought the old three from me at a reasonable price and I was happy it worked out. Now it gives me a piece of mind, for what it's worth and only cost me an extra several hundred bucks......just my 2cents


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[Spike00513]

I thought only race-track shops did shaving.

Not sure if the emergency wheel can be kept in rotation to decrease wear.
But if it's 10 years old maybe it should be replaced. Who knows what condition the ~$2 valve stem is in at this point, which can also be replaced on its own if you want.


I've got a few spare ~7/32" 235 Conti DWS.
Continental claims their tire lifetimes to be 5yr, and Michelin 10yr.
Maybe at that point they dry out, among other things, and braking distance (grip) gets worse.
I guess coincidence, I've rarely used grip so far. Only once, I was flowing with traffic straight in my through lane. To the right, was a turn lane, sitting traffic (speed differentials are dangerous, especially for motorcyclists going through parking lots where someone might reverse fast without looking). The car jumped in front without signaling and ABS kicked in (meaning the tire locked up by reaching its limit of grip), maybe a dashcam would help. But my point is, it was close. And a fresh new 18" probably grips better than a stale 10 year old tire.

Can't track McLarens stop at a ridiculous 130mph-0 in 4.5 seconds or something? I doubt it uses the same tires as a Corolla.

If the 3 remaining ones are so worn as to be outside the tolerance then they are probably almost due to be replaced anyway. Two things never to try to be cheap with is tires and brakes.

I just read someone with a newly-purchased B6 ordered brakes for it, $80 for everything on RockAuto
$100 eBay turbo, and more

vs. ECS Geomet slotted, Zimmerman Coat-Z, Ate PremiumOne, Brembo, Adams
Hawk HPS, Pagid, Akebono, etc.

I've been down this road with a mismatched front/rear set on two separate occasions . Car immediately drives weird with odd steering pull over uneven road especially. I know a lot of people seem to be able to get away with it but for me it just hasn't worked out.

You sure that's not just a defective tire itself?

[Spike00513]

worst case scenario

[vex3000]

Thank you for the advice gentlemen, I've concluded that I will proceed with getting a new set today. I hope you all have a good weekend.

[vex3000]

One more question for you guys- the tire shop I took it to says that since it's an Audi they may not be able to do an alignment because it often requires special tools. Is it definitely necessary to get an alignment?

[RileyM]

It's not necessarily to immediately get an alignment, but I do get an alignment when I get new tires. Where I go, if the alignment is good, it's no charge. Schedule one somewhere else, in the next month. Otherwise you run the risk you will ruin your tires, sooner with bad wear patterns. It makes me skeptical about the place you are going to, if they do alignments, wouldn't they want to be able to service everyone? I do know there are different types of alignments, and some AWD requires you to check all four corners. Some cars only require you check the front, and others the general axis of the rear axle also. Enjoy the new rubber!

[SJorge3442]

One more question for you guys- the tire shop I took it to says that since it's an Audi they may not be able to do an alignment because it often requires special tools. Is it definitely necessary to get an alignment?

No special tools needed. Just typical tools that every shop has.

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[bendover4dover]

It's not necessarily to immediately get an alignment, but I do get an alignment when I get new tires. Where I go, if the alignment is good, it's no charge. Schedule one somewhere else, in the next month. Otherwise you run the risk you will ruin your tires, sooner with bad wear patterns. It makes me skeptical about the place you are going to, if they do alignments, wouldn't they want to be able to service everyone? I do know there are different types of alignments, and some AWD requires you to check all four corners. Some cars only require you check the front, and others the general axis of the rear axle also. Enjoy the new rubber!

This guy is on it.

You really want to get a new alignment, bc if it comes to warranties with tires with manufacturers, they require you to include when they were put on, rotated, alignments etc. and if not all the proper steps are taken in the initial purchase then they will not pro-rate or follow through with warranty bc they feel as though you didn't take proper steps to ensure you got full life.
If it ever comes to you sending them in for that, they will look at EVERYTHING. Camber wear, toe, etc. and all of your paper work. Some manufacturers are more lenient than others.
For instance getting Michelin to warranty anything is like trying to get a hard on in a blizzard. I've been told that they simply say, our tires are too good for this to have happened and they didn't do the proper steps.
That has just been my experience, other will have different.
When it comes down to it, it's better to take the proper steps and spend a little more money initially because it could potentially save you more money in the long run if something happens. If you break it down over the projected lifetime of the tire to how much per day or week you're spending, there is barely any difference compared to an import cheap one and not taking proper steps.




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[jacobsen]

I've been using the Pirelli cinturato p7 All Season Plus for the last three years. I would recommend them. When I was looking they had the most tread depth of any Tire in its size range. There are also a few things about the tire that make it a little special. I think I spent something like seven hundred bucks at Discount Tire. Which by the way I think is the best place to get tires put on because they're all over the country and they have a really great warranty. I wonder if Pirelli warranties their tires out right or if you have to go through the distributor Discount Tire. That's what I like about some companies when they warranty their things without you having to screw around with the place you got them at.

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[john_gonzo]

... I hit a pothole and blew one of my tires. ...

... Is it definitely necessary to get an alignment?

Not absolutely necessary but highly recommended. Any force generated from hitting that pothole that wasn't absorbed by the tire was taken up by the wheel and suspension. Speaking of that, it might be good to have the shop check that wheel.

[vex3000]

They said the camber is good but the toe on the front driverside needs to be adjusted, however apparently they are unable to adjust it due to a bad tie rod that needs to get replaced. (~$145)

Does that sound reasonable?

[old guy]

Ask them where they are getting the parts. If they are replacing the tie rod assembly it is reasonable. If they are using an OEM outer tie rod only that also sounds reasonable. You can see the price variation for both in the link provided. If you have the inclination to replace it yourself it is fairly straightforward.

Clicky click®

If you like working on your car you can even set the toe yourself: Clicky click®

[Spike00513]

They said the camber is good but the toe on the front driverside needs to be adjusted, however apparently they are unable to adjust it due to a bad tie rod that needs to get replaced. (~$145)

Does that sound reasonable?

My tie rod was like $8.
Might even still have a spare set, but OEM Febi rubber dampened instead of S4 full metal.
Outer though. I think my inners are still good. The securing service is pretty big so those might take a special rented tool or big jaw pliers to remove, it's not something my regular wrench set will fit over.

Toe is adjusted by the tie rod, not sure if it had anti-sieze ran through the threads when it was installed, and what age/miles is on it. Also if heat was applied and penetrant. Maybe it can't turn and got stuck? Hopefully they're doing it right, there's not many moving parts to it, just two hex nuts or something.

[RileyM]

It feels a touch steep in price, but not far off. $45 dollars in that part, and $90 /hr shop labor, plus tax, puts it right there. Love/hate right there with these Audi's. Makes sense also, can't adjust a bad tie rod end, since it will have excess play in it. You don't necessarily get the same measurement twice. When it rains it pours.