vavJETTA36 k24 build

[vavJETTAw36]

That's crazy, it looks almost identical to when my stock motor blew and it also took out the starter like yours did!

Haha probably cylinder 6 or 3. I havnt opened it up to really look.

That’s what I get for running rods file on a stock block


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[jbain2]

Did you check to make sure the head wasn’t scored where the cam seal goes as well? I had a similar issue with a leaking cam seal forever that we finally figured out was related to the head.


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[vavJETTAw36]

Did you check to make sure the head wasn’t scored where the cam seal goes as well? I had a similar issue with a leaking cam seal forever that we finally figured out was related to the head.


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The fluid is running from between the cam and seal. But where did you have issues?


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[jbain2]

The fluid is running from between the cam and seal. But where did you have issues?


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Have had an issue similar to yours with a scored cam. But with this it looked like someone scored the head where the seal inserts like they were trying to take it out with a chisel. Wasn’t sure how well you were able to see given it’s rearward facing in your case.


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[vavJETTAw36]

Been spinning my wheels for weeks with the three issues I am having. I think the oil leak is fixed now that I pulled the camshafts and sleeved the one.

The other two remaining are the abs module intermittent connection issue, which I put a module from a used ebay pump and that did not fix it. Which is unfortunate because that sucker is not easy to swap. I have another module coming from a member, so hopefully it’s a good unit.

The third and greatest issue, which leaves my car sitting where it is, is that the car starts overheating after 20-30 min of idle or about the same time driving around with some sit stills at lights.

- Aux fans do not cut on whatsoever, so I tested the fans, they are fine.

- Tested the FCM, fans turn on.

- So I replaced the lower fan switch, which I swear I replaced last sept when I was diagnosing a similar issue (can’t say exact symptoms, but an overheating issue nonetheless). But fans still not cutting on so I tested the continuity and fixed the connector thinking it just wasn’t holding pressure on the switch. Still no fans and overheating.

- measured the temps when car gets to overheat temp and noticed that the upper hose is 190 and lower is 185, not hot enough to turn the fans on. But yet the oil and coolant are sitting at 230/235 and no signs of stopping. Verified both sensor reasons on the CTS to be consistent with one another.

- coolant is flowing at least some as I can see it going into the expansion and I can feel water leaving the lower hose, which from the looks of the diagram tells me that the new thermostat I put in has to be opening. Unless I’m missing something there.

- I cannot feel water moving at the upper or lower hoses, which tell me either the radiator is stopped up or the thermo is not opening, but my previous bullet tells me that the thermo is at least opening some

- I’ve got a new thermo and radiator on the way. The factory ones are back ordered which sucks because they are only $218. So I ordered one of those CSF aluminum ones since I am not liking the cheap looking aftermarket radiators.
















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[CELison]

Maybe pull a rad hose off and hit the bottle with some compressed air and see if it pushes coolant out? Sounds like you have some sort of blockage or air lock.

[vavJETTAw36]

Maybe pull a rad hose off and hit the bottle with some compressed air and see if it pushes coolant out? Sounds like you have some sort of blockage or air lock.

I filled using my tried and true vacuum method. But not saying it ain’t an airlock. Def sounds like a blockage somewhere. I’ve never had to do a coolant bleed since my excavator usually does the trick. I may open
Up the bleed bolts if the new radiator and thermo don’t fix the problem.

One thing about the thermo I put in was that it did not have a bleeder hole at 12 o’clock. First I’ve seen, but it did have a top indicator arrow, so I put it in correct. It was a mahle behr brand.


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[vavJETTAw36]

I’ve put about 250 miles on the car. It’s got an oil leak from the fms flange I believe or upper oil pan or both. There’s another leak in the back the keeps burning , but I’m unsure if it’s from the front and forced in the back on the exhaust. The rear leak is getting worse so it should be pretty easy to find.

Abs light has been on so I havnt been able to get it inspected. I wasn’t able to connect the module so I threw on a junkyard one. That one also couldn’t connect. Then I bought one from a guy off the group and it could connect but kept throwing abs speed sensor code. So I changed the sensor. Then module was happy for about 5 miles before throwing another abs speed sensor code. So I checked the sensor, harness and pins and everything is okay. I even swapped the pins going to another sensor and the module was still unhappy. I bought a reman unit that I’ll put in next week. That should hopefully take care of it.

I’m preparing mentally to have to pull this engine in spring just to fix the oil leaks unless I can really pin point the FMS flange is at fault. It looks like the corner where block, pan, and flange meet is where it’s coming from so I may be lucky and will only need to drop the lower pan and reseal the flange. IIRC I think I used all sealant on the flange because I didn’t have a seal on hand.


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[vavJETTAw36]

FMS flange is leaking and the back of the upper oil pan is leaking from where the pan was welded up. The smallest of spots was missed. I had covered the welds in jb weld as a precaution but I didn’t get much in this area apparently:



I also need to decide if I want to pull the motor completely or just drop the subframe. Also the lowest bolt on the cold side of both turbo housings look like they are
Leaking a little. It’s not much, but maybe worth pulling the cold sides off and adding high temp RTV if im pulling the engine.


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[Silverex]

I’d just pull the engine so you can get a good look at everything and its obviously way easier out of car. At end of day it probably won’t take any more time vs dicking around with subframe removed on your back....just my 2cents.

[vavJETTAw36]

I’d just pull the engine so you can get a good look at everything and its obviously way easier out of car. At end of day it probably won’t take any more time vs dicking around with subframe removed on your back....just my 2cents.

Yea I think you’re right. Front end needs to come off anyways to swing AC lines out of the way. at that point I’m only a few steps away from pulling the damn thing.

This will give me an opportunity to rebuild the inner joints on the axles, swap out the single piece drive shaft, do some exhaust work/DS AFR bung, etc. hell a may as well swap the head gaskets too ugh I hate this car.


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[vavJETTAw36]

Decided to ditch the k24s and go with SEP rs4 hybrids to get some low end power and make this a fun city car again. So spring time I’ll drop her out and replace the head gaskets and turbos and fix the oil leaks.

Until then, I’ll be putting some break in miles on her here and there


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[wbrunner23]

Decided to ditch the k24s and go with SEP rs4 hybrids to get some low end power and make this a fun city car again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How come? Didn't like the powerband? Worried about reliability?

[vavJETTAw36]

How come? Didn't like the powerband? Worried about reliability?

Powerband. Perfect for a drag car, but I drive this car mostly around city and I wanted something that spools up quicker.


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[vavJETTAw36]

Just some updates. Pulled the motor around a month ago. Disassembled the engine. Put on the proper s4 head gaskets instead of 2.8. Put new turbos on. Resealed the oil pans.

Also got to the bottom of the mysterious overheating when idle. I had installed a thinset fan blade for clearance. Well, it was designed as a pusher fan, not a puller. Which caused the fan to work against itself and never come up to speed.









Decided to swap back to a 2 piece as the single had to much NvH for my liking. Built a quick alignment tool for installation



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[S4James]

i like that tool idea... i had that poly center support put in and im pretty sure its misaligned.. have a minor shake at speed i didnt have before.

[vavJETTAw36]

i like that tool idea... i had that poly center support put in and im pretty sure its misaligned.. have a minor shake at speed i didnt have before.

You can borrow it if you want.

But I used 2.5 inch exhaust clamps, shortened them to 2.4, and welded to square tubing. Pretty simple to do


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[CELison]

That's pretty slick

[Silverex]

What do you plan on doing for a fan blade?

[vavJETTAw36]

What do you plan on doing for a fan blade?

Late all road fan blade and clutch.


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[Silverex]

Late all road fan blade and clutch.


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Thought I checked my slim fan’s blades before but apparently not since mine is a pusher instead of puller also. Does an all road fan not bolt up and why your getting an all road fan clutch also?

[vavJETTAw36]

Thought I checked my slim fan’s blades before but apparently not since mine is a pusher instead of puller also. Does an all road fan not bolt up and why your getting an all road fan clutch also?

It was by chance that an engine I got for a buddy of mine for a prefacelift a4 had the clutch and blades still attached in hood condition. Once I saw the fan, it got me wondering the differences between that and the b5 Passat fan. Once I spotted that the Passat fan is a pusher and the fact that I had a good fan to use, I am using it. So I printed a spacer in ABS for it which wasn’t all that hard since I had already designed a model off the Passat fan set.

The all road has bigger blades and seems beefier. The clutch is a 3 bolt instead of a 4 bolt. Kind of odd, but I’m gonna run it. I put the engine in yesterday and seems it has adequate space between my bi pipe and radiator. I would bet the s4 blade set would fit in as well with a bit more spacing.


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[Silverex]

Is there any other 4 bolt fans that are pullers and bolt upto an S4 clutch?
If not I’ll probably just bite the bullet and go with an EFK.

[vavJETTAw36]

Is there any other 4 bolt fans that are pullers and bolt upto an S4 clutch?
If not I’ll probably just bite the bullet and go with an EFK.

You could make it work with an adapter for sure. I could help you with that if you need. You’d have to give me some time.


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[Silverex]

You could make it work with an adapter for sure. I could help you with that if you need. You’d have to give me some time.


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What does the adapter actually do? Allow you to use the wrong fan I have now but flip it around?

[vavJETTAw36]

What does the adapter actually do? Allow you to use the wrong fan I have now but flip it around?

All road fanset ($25-35 bucks) on the s4 clutch.


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[vavJETTAw36]

https://youtu.be/OvPdjfW5zwo

Engine back in but still need to bolt up exhaust and put the shifter back in and wheels back on.


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[R490]

Awesome! At least the weather is finally starting to cooperate for outside work.

[vavJETTAw36]

Just an update:

Car has been running real good. I’ve got 900 miles on the build. My only complaints so far is I have a vibration around 40-55, which may be wheel/tire related or some suspension/alignment. So i will deal with it until I get new tires. The other issue is that it when I run it for a while I can smell oil in the exhaust, but I’m not getting smoke. So this could be the oil still burning from the exhaust that got pushed in during my engine failure. I did have smoke for about 500 miles.

Dropped her off with my buddy for a cut and polish. Then repainted the center caps that were turning gold from the sun





Then my side project, extending the arms on my lift so I can fit my s6. I will also need to fix the ramps for my lift as i feel my S6 will just crush the currently rotting ones. So Im probably going to build a mold and pour them in concrete. Im targeting August to have my S6 down.








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[Silverex]

I bet it’s just old oil burning off in exhaust….I’ve heard it can take a long time if there was a lot in there. So I wouldn’t worry too much unless it starts getting worse but not a bad idea to do a compression and/or leak down to have a reference for later down the road anyway

[vavJETTAw36]

I bet it’s just old oil burning off in exhaust….I’ve heard it can take a long time if there was a lot in there. So I wouldn’t worry too much unless it starts getting worse but not a bad idea to do a compression and/or leak down to have a reference for later down the road anyway

Thats a good point. I planned to do one after a good 1000 mile break-in. It rips pretty good on the base tune as it is so im not expecting anything bad. But you never know if the top end has any leaks. Good thing is, it doesnt smoke when you start it.