Bosch Vs. Valeo 150A Alternator

[DPDISXR4Ti]

From what I can gather, it looks like starting in 2005 Audi switched over from the Bosch to Valeo alternator, but I think they are fully cross compatible. i.e. You could use a Valeo in a 2003 and a Bosch in a 2006.

Just wondering if anyone has any definitive thoughts on whether one is "better" than the other. Part of "better", for me, would be road-side serviceability. From a practical standpoint what that mostly means is how easily could the voltage regulator be swapped out, since that is what fails most often.

[customa4]

From what I recall reading here on the forums, most would recommend sticking with the alternator that's on your car. If you have a Bosch alternator, get a Bosch replacement and vice versa.

[Spike00513]

Can't alternators be rebuilt? Replacement regulator (Huco brand?), brushes, slip-ring, bearing(s), and so on? Maybe a parts kit?
Doesn't walky have a DIY thread on it?

I'm not sure how efficient mine runs, OR if it's something that either works or doesn't. And if so, when it will fail. Currently at 145k mi. Hoping it won't. OG has like 300k. But hwy miles.
Either way. I'm not sure if it's like a timing belt, but if it is, I mean that in the "better safe than sorry, do it now preventatively" way, rather than it picking an inconvenient time to become problematic and leave you on the side of the road.

And, with this age, maybe the (aluminum?) metal housing has oxidized and gotten dirty, so it doesn't look too nice. But I guess if that's the only thing, I can live with it.
You say road-side serviceability. I'm not sure if a spare is something to keep in the car. I know some people keep stuff like tools, assorted fluids, and so on.
Honestly, I haven't even looked into that yet. I have some stuff but not much. A multi-tool, hand-crank flashlight, etc.

Somebody posted in Avants Only subforum, that they retrofitted a shiny new B8 180A alternator, instead of our 150A. I guess that's more expensive than a used B6 unit on eBay. Maybe some can be found, also used (albeit with less miles) for lower price?
I believe it was a direct fit on his '05 USP 1.8T, except for one small plastic lock tab or something, that had to be changed out from a B6 part number, to a B8 one, which he ordered for a few bucks.

My RPM's dip if I operate a window switch, not sure if that matters.

[SJorge3442]

I replaced my alternator regulator with a HUCO unit and my alternator is still solid. It's a bosch unit. Last month I was convinced my alternator was trashed so I got a REMY reman from RockAuto. 200 miles later this alternator fried itself. I put my alternator back in and all was well. Not sure what the deal was, but something was wrong with that REMY unit. My stock 144K mile with 15K mile HUCO regulator is charging strong at about 13.8V.

I also have heard the same as Customa4 mentioned. Stick with the unit which was on your car.

[5ktq]

I feel like parts are a bit easier to find for Bosch, otherwise I think they are both fine

[DPDISXR4Ti]

You say road-side serviceability.

My primary focus with road-side serviceability is swapping out the VR since that's the most frequent thing that fails on an alternator. Plus, it's way more feasible to pack away a VR rather than the whole alternator. Is the VR more easily replaced with the Bosch or Valeo?

[Pswish]

I was thinking my voltage regulator was failing so i went to one of the highest rated alternator shops out here in the East Bay Area. The guy there told me Valeo makes great products with low failure parts and high reliability; the only thing you need to do is replace the brushings. My alternator isn't stock but had a Valeo TG15C017 on it when i bought it at 95k miles.

[5ktq]

They're about the same, few screws for the cover, disconnect B+ and the field connector, couple more screws for the reg.

My primary focus with road-side serviceability is swapping out the VR since that's the most frequent thing that fails on an alternator. Plus, it's way more feasible to pack away a VR rather than the whole alternator.

I used to think this too, but I think I'll just start doing preventative maintenance on electrical wear items like this. The original alt has 100k mi on it. Soon I'll remove it, replace bearings, brushes, and slip rings. $40 or whatever in parts and I won't have to worry about it for another 100k mi. Don't need to bring regulator with me.

Beats having it breakdown in timbuktu

[DPDISXR4Ti]

I used to think this too, but I think I'll just start doing preventative maintenance on electrical wear items like this. The original alt has 100k mi on it. Soon I'll remove it, replace bearings, brushes, and slip rings. $40 or whatever in parts and I won't have to worry about it for another 100k mi. Don't need to bring regulator with me.

Preventative maintenance is always a better strategy, except perhaps for those times when you get an infant mortality failure. In an ideal world I think I'd be inclined to replace the regulator before it fails and hang onto the "known good" old one as a backup.

FWIW, I found this...
I very much prefer the Valeo units. They seem to have very few problems compared to the Bosch units. It seems like whenever we have Audi's come in with charging problems it's Bosch equipped. And when we get used Bosch replacements, they are often problematic. Just my experience. The 90A Valeo I rebuilt for the this DIY is still going strong - 4 1/2 years and 70k miles later.

...in this B5 thread
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...rushes-(Valeo)

[Nollywood]

My Bosch alternator is still going strong at 130,000 miles.

I think it's possible to overthink things, when it comes to cars. How many spares can you realistically carry in your car, or store at home? Where does it all end? Would you need to keep a spare 1.8T motor at home, in case your original throws a rod? A spare starter motor, mini tool kit and jack stands in your trunk, it case you need to replace yours at the road side?

You'll need a garage, if you need to store spares of every description at home, or a trailer to tow behind your car, to carry a bunch of spares and tools. 1.8T motors are prone to sludge, and less reliable than whatever brand of alternator bolted to its side. Yet, very few people keep a spare motor, unless of course, they're doing a build, and wish to reduce downtime, until swap over time.

In my book, hoarding spares is the sign of an unreliable car, and I would rather junk such a car, if I had no confidence in it. I just can't become a slave to any car, and that's what you become, if you're constantly worrying about things breaking.

My advise? Join the AA, if you're really worried about breaking down, and just enjoy your car for what it is.

[EuroxS4]

Bosch or valeo.Doesnt matter they all fails at some point.Knock on wood mine is still going at 340k miles.I know that you need to get the alternator with the same amperate rating.Otherwise youll always have a battery light on.Also Im not sure if the ripple is the same on both alternators this could also be an issue.Personally both alternator are known to fail.So I dont think one is better than the other.Valeo is french and we all know how horrible French cars are lol!!Bosch is German and well all know how awesome German cars are!!!With that said I would stick to whatever you have in your car.The issue with rebuilt alternator is the quality of parts they are rebuilt with.Most often they are rebuilt with cheap china parts and last no where near as the originals.So if you get a reman buy it from bosch.I dont believe they are expensive.Brand new bosch unit is $220 some of the newer audi'sthe alternator is well over $500 if its water cooler well over a grand lol.

As far as the voltage regulator goes.I dont think one is any worse than the other to replace.Either way its not something I would wanna do on the side of the road.Plus how often do they fail??once every 100k miles maybe once every 150k miles.So in reality its not something that youll be dealing with often.Unless you put 100k miles on your car each year.

[Kevin C]

If your alternators regulator goes out and you have a decent battery your not dead in the water. The battery should have enough capacity to get you home or to a shop. The only hitch is you need to notice that the alternator is not charging before you run your battery down ( dim lights). If not your stuck with a bad regulator and a dead battery. For me, I go with a jump start to get home and then fix it in my garage. As EuroxS4 mentioned, the regulators last so long (unless your going with a generic rebuilt) that it seems to be pretty low probability that you would ever need it. My factory unit has made it 14 years and 150,000 miles.

I don't keep much in the trunk other than a spare tire and a few hand simple hand tools. My fall back? Towing insurance, it covers every type of road side breakdown.

[Spike00513]

My Bosch alternator is still going strong at 130,000 miles.

I think it's possible to overthink things, when it comes to cars. How many spares can you realistically carry in your car, or store at home? Where does it all end? Would you need to keep a spare 1.8T motor at home, in case your original throws a rod? A spare starter motor, mini tool kit and jack stands in your trunk, it case you need to replace yours at the road side?

You'll need a garage, if you need to store spares of every description at home, or a trailer to tow behind your car, to carry a bunch of spares and tools. 1.8T motors are prone to sludge, and less reliable than whatever brand of alternator bolted to its side. Yet, very few people keep a spare motor, unless of course, they're doing a build, and wish to reduce downtime, until swap over time.

In my book, hoarding spares is the sign of an unreliable car, and I would rather junk such a car, if I had no confidence in it. I just can't become a slave to any car, and that's what you become, if you're constantly worrying about things breaking.

My advise? Join the AA, if you're really worried about breaking down, and just enjoy your car for what it is.

Well, you're right. A clean new alternator for example, is easy to keep as a spare somewhere. But a spare engine, will not exactly work as a coffee table. It's too heavy, and will leave a dent in the carpet.
But I've met people with non-German cars, who have up to 3 spare engines. Then again maybe there was some element of modding, building, and projects, keeping it in the garage or moving it on a trailer whenever the time came.
I've got 145k, stock, hopefully no rods are thrown.
Is it unreliable? I thought for sludge, people use use good oil, bigger filters, changed at 3-5k intervals, and try to avoid short trips? Or am I due for some pickup screen service?

I thought about keeping a spare motor. Not urgently. But more to keep the car going forever, since people don't make that part anymore.
So let's say I'm at 300k. Is it capable of faring like the world record Volvo P1800D with 1mil miles? Didn't a German get that out of his B6 A4, but 1M km? Except that was a TDI. And I hear diesel blocks haven't even started breaking in until min-100k mi, and I've seen used cars for sale at 300-400k.
But they are heavy iron, to withstand stress.
Because diesel is torquey, higher compression, and has a high energy content. And less friction (diesel lubricates better than gas). More of a bang, than a flame (gas).

So at least with this car, for example, what if I get lucky and stumble upon an 80k mi engine. Sure, engines are meant to be driven, but maybe there's a way to store it in the meantime? Or even swap it in? You know what, nevermind, maybe you're right. This is a headache and I don't want to do that.
But for older Audi owners, or are they collectors? With 2.2L I5T's, I've read accounts of them covering spare blocks in corrosion-resistant oil, and then stuffing the plug holes with some moisture-absorbent things, to prevent rust while it sits.

Dehydrator plugs. Don't people use them on aircraft, namely planes with rotary engines


Or are you suggesting another spare, a 3L V6 or V8, which you're swapping in? Or another car, like you said?
I mean, I'm HOPING mine won't go, am I misinformed? I thought all that needs to be done on my end, as an owner, is just service maintenance items like timing belt jobs, at certain intervals.

It would not be fun, to become slave to a car.

Bosch or valeo.Doesnt matter they all fails at some point.Knock on wood mine is still going at 340k miles.I know that you need to get the alternator with the same amperate rating.Otherwise youll always have a battery light on.Also Im not sure if the ripple is the same on both alternators this could also be an issue.Personally both alternator are known to fail.So I dont think one is better than the other.Valeo is french and we all know how horrible French cars are lol!!Bosch is German and well all know how awesome German cars are!!!With that said I would stick to whatever you have in your car.The issue with rebuilt alternator is the quality of parts they are rebuilt with.Most often they are rebuilt with cheap china parts and last no where near as the originals.So if you get a reman buy it from bosch.I dont believe they are expensive.Brand new bosch unit is $220 some of the newer audi'sthe alternator is well over $500 if its water cooler well over a grand lol.

As far as the voltage regulator goes.I dont think one is any worse than the other to replace.Either way its not something I would wanna do on the side of the road.Plus how often do they fail??once every 100k miles maybe once every 150k miles.So in reality its not something that youll be dealing with often.Unless you put 100k miles on your car each year.

Well, Valeo was chosen as an OE, wasn't it?
France made the Citroen DS, Renault A110, and other famous cars.
Valeo also made our headlights. But I'm not sure what that's worth in this context.
But does China have a place in this conversation? I don't know. But I think LuK (clutches, flywheels) may have a factory there, same for Osram-Sylvania (light bulbs).

If your alternators regulator goes out and you have a decent battery your not dead in the water. The battery should have enough capacity to get you home or to a shop. The only hitch is you need to notice that the alternator is not charging before you run your battery down ( dim lights). If not your stuck with a bad regulator and a dead battery. For me, I go with a jump start to get home and then fix it in my garage. As EuroxS4 mentioned, the regulators last so long (unless your going with a generic rebuilt) that it seems to be pretty low probability that you would ever need it. My factory unit has made it 14 years and 150,000 miles.

I don't keep much in the trunk other than a spare tire and a few hand simple hand tools. My fall back? Towing insurance, it covers every type of road side breakdown.

My serpentine belt came off once (no longer spinning the alternator). It wasn't a far trip, but the car still drove, with a red battery warning light on the dash.