Just another oil pressure issue thread....

[panman142]

So here is the run down:

2006 A4 Stage 2+, about 130k, (<---recipe for disaster.... I know ) bought the car at 99k and was dealer serviced until I got it. About a week ago while doing a logging pull for the tune the car threw a P0089 code and then low oil pressure light once the rpms dropped back down near idle. Oil was changed a few days prior and HPFP upgrade installed. Never had any oil pressure issues before this (had noticed a small drip from the filter housing but was going to wait until the OH winter broke before fixing). Car has thrown low pressure light a few times after that day also, usually at idle, and once at about 1800 rpm. Checked oil level after the logging run, touch about MAX. Drained a little oil out so it is about 65% b/w min and max on the dipstick. Threw the light again (I assumed I would) and installed an oil pressure gauge (Newsouth banjo adapter at turbo supply line) and when engine is cold the pressure is acceptable...about 62 psi at 2000 rpm. Once warm though I only see about 28 psi at 2000 (well below acceptable pressure level from what I have researched). Pulls about 35 psi at 25-2600 rpm and very low at idle 8-10 psi once warm. Obviously only driving the car for diag purposes at this point. Oil seemed a little darker than normal for just being changed (maybe just me).

When installing the gauge I noticed my filter housing gasket leak had gotten significantly worse, saw some oil on the bottom of the pan from running down the side of the block. At this point I am assuming the oil pump is on its way out but just want to gather your guy's opinion on any other possible solutions. I have always used Motul 8100 excess with Ceratec additive and K&N or Mann filters on oil changes @ 4k intervals give or take. Also run the ECS aluminum filter housing.

Here is my plan of action:

-Run some Motul engine flush tonight, and throw some fresh oil in and maybe some Lucas stabilizer to try to minimize any damage to the cam/valvetrain (probably already toast ) just to see what happens..

-Will have some free time this weekend and plan to replace oil filter housing and oil cooler gaskets, inspect filter housing for anything out of the ordinary, will probably drop the pan while I'm at it and inspect/replace pick up tube. Probably pull valve cover also to check things out up top.

-Given that does not fix the issue, which I assume it probably won't I am leaning toward a 1.8T pump conversion, really do not have the coin to tear down the entire engine until tax return season when I can reassemble it with forged pistons/rods, arp head studs etc etc. Or just scooping a BPY engine and swapping the whole thing.

I am probably forgetting to mention something here but any insight is greatly appreciated. Have a friend selling a B8 A5 3.2 6MT that I am now starting to plan to buy since I do not see this oil pressure getting resolved anytime soon. Working full time and being in school and having a 5 month old does not allow much time anymore to do ing but I do not want to watch my B7 fall to the masses of oil system failure.

[miA4]

I have to imagine that some of these oil pressure issues are weather related. I read these threads everyday and I have never seen so many cars have issues with oil pressure until it began getting cold outside.

[Seerlah]

Engine flush removes more deposits to clog your pick up tube screen even more, so the theory goes. You can try the Auto RX treatment. Some have used it with success, and your case may be one of them. I have a bottle of Amsoil flush in my garage I never used due to being warned of this years ago.

[panman142]

I have to imagine that some of these oil pressure issues are weather related. I read these threads everyday and I have never seen so many cars have issues with oil pressure until it began getting cold outside.

Temps have been pretty high in Ohio lately. Was about 20*F when doing the logging though. Anywhere from 25-55 last 3 days.

Engine flush removes more deposits to clog your pick up tube screen even more, so the theory goes. You can try the Auto RX treatment. Some have used it with success, and your case may be one of them. I have a bottle of Amsoil flush in my garage I never used due to being warned of this years ago.

This is true, I did not think that over well. I figured it might dissolve the deposits. I will rethink this now...

[panman142]

bump.

[aluthman]

Try putting some 20w-50 oil in it and see if pressure rises to an acceptable level.

[Seerlah]

Upping oil weight has to do with journal and bearing clearance issues. The thicker oil is used to fill the extra clearance. In his case, the added viscocity will add to his problem. Now the pump is going to have to try and pump even thicker oil through the gallies. Cold starts would be extra damaging till it thins out. Yes, his oil pressure may increase in numbers. But in reality it will be doing more harm than good.

Where you take readings from is the first stop after the pump, and why the numbers may be percieved as getting better. But as far as the rest of the block goes, you now have to push even thicker motor oil through those small gallies.

When I get to my laptop, Ill list a few techniques you can try. Ill even post a diy video by my mechanic on one way to do it without dropping the pan. But if done incorrectly, you are just about guarantee to trash your motor (bearings and journals).

I still siggest the Auto RX treatment. Why? Reputable person from my section tried it with good results. And I suggest this because yours still has enough oil pressure to have positive results...with only adding this on your next couple oil changes. Its the engine deposits that clog the pick up screen more times than less. You want to avoid adding more to the screen. But I can tell you that when it happened to me, I dropped my pan and replaced the tube. Not a fun job.

[Seerlah]

1.8t, but same thing can be done

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFOqW0x7oiI

And at first I was going to sift through these threads, but you can find your answer in this list. Every way people tried worked...including Auto RX. Call me lazy when it comes to finding exact threads (one has like all the ways that worked, with people chiming in on what they did. one post even simplified it with not much work involved at all. proven real world positive results)...because that is exactly what it is. But read these threads from my section and you can learn ways people went about it. I put "oil pressure" and "diesel fuel" in the search criterion. But just about everybody in my section went through this at some point or another, including me.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/search...archid=7318473

Edit: Ok, I lied. I searched. This says sludge...but give it a try. Or...wait for it...wait for it...try the Auto RX, which I suggested over and over again.

if you do have a sludge problem. and for anyone that searches this thread. do this

drain oil and fill engine with about 1-2 quarts of diesel fuel. take out coilpacks and spark plugs as well as remove the fuel pump fuse. then crank the engine for about 10-15 seconds about every hour, 6 times. then let sit overnight(at least 12 hours). then drain diesel, and by drain i mean leave it draining for a couple hours or you can flush it with some fresh oil. then fill back up and run REGULAR non synth oil and a cheap filter for about 50ish miles and drain again to replace with a good filter and full synth.

good to go

Of course you guys know this washes out your bearings, that is why my mechanic manually pumped it in. But...if done right it works.

Disclaimer: I, nor anybody on Audizine, will be held liable if anything awry was to happen to your engine. We all know proper way is to drop the pan. But...

[Solarsuplex]

Dropping the pan is about an 8x bigger job than replacing the filter housing. You need to swing the whole subframe under the car and support the motor from above since you will have removed the motor mounts to get it out of the way. If you don't put the car in service position you may be able to support the motor by the trans and let the snub mount and the front end hold most of the weight but i would be kinda sketched out to be laying under the motor and wrenching with it only held up like that. best case is use a hoist to get the motor up a bit which can give you more clearance under the car (assuming you aren't on a lift). Post pics of your balancing shafts when you get the pump out. Mine had about an 1/8" of play side to side after they had ground down a good chunk of their housing

[panman142]

This gives me hope that possibly it is just the pickup tub clogged... instead of trying the auto rx treatment I have an extra set of hands possibly 2 available to me this weekend. We're just going to do it right and drop the pan and do the filter housing and oil cooler gaskets all at once. I have a couple spare floor jacks so hopefully I can figure out some way to support the engine without having to pick up a support bar (would be nice to have) but I was expecting to have to swing the subframe out of the way. I've tried cutting corners in the past and always comes back to bite me in the ass, so looks like ill be stockpiling some beer and going at it...

Fingers crossed that everything goes well. Also my T8 torx should be in so I can add my podi dual steering column pod with the prosport evo gauges. I may not make good pressure still once its all through but damnit my gauge set up should at least be decent... haha

[Seerlah]

This gives me hope that possibly it is just the pickup tub clogged... instead of trying the auto rx treatment I have an extra set of hands possibly 2 available to me this weekend. We're just going to do it right and drop the pan and do the filter housing and oil cooler gaskets all at once. I have a couple spare floor jacks so hopefully I can figure out some way to support the engine without having to pick up a support bar (would be nice to have) but I was expecting to have to swing the subframe out of the way. I've tried cutting corners in the past and always comes back to bite me in the ass, so looks like ill be stockpiling some beer and going at it...

Fingers crossed that everything goes well. Also my T8 torx should be in so I can add my podi dual steering column pod with the prosport evo gauges. I may not make good pressure still once its all through but damnit my gauge set up should at least be decent... haha

Smart choice!

[KJack]

Are you going with the pickup tube that has the bypass in case of a clogged screen? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...be/06f115251b/

[panman142]

Are you going with the pickup tube that has the bypass in case of a clogged screen? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...be/06f115251b/

I was not planning on it however I was not aware of this pickup.... this throws a curveball into things... Hmmm.

[panman142]

Smart choice!

Ran some engine flush through it this morning against your word. Did it when it was cold so it wasnt idling at super low pressure... also less effective that way. But gained about 5-8 psi across the board and a couple at idle. You are definitely right, has to be that pickup tube. Any insight into the pickup with the bypass listed above? Thanks for the good advice too man. Feeling optimistic I can at least revive the car long enough to save money for a full build when issues return (assuming they probably will since that is how things go for me typically lol)

[onedumslack]

It's an updated tube. If you're pulling it apart I would absolutely get it. if it turns out it doesn't fix your issue, you can always reuse it in the rebuild.

[panman142]

It's an updated tube. If you're pulling it apart I would absolutely get it. if it turns out it doesn't fix your issue, you can always reuse it in the rebuild.

Word. Put the order through already should hopefully be here in time for the weekend!

[Solarsuplex]

Floor jacks may cut it but remember that you are taking the pan off so that can't be used as a point of support. The best way is really overhead support but do what you gotta do i guess. I just couldn't stand laying under the car with 3 jacks all around me while i was wiggling around in an oily mess. Best case scenario you can just clean the pick up and do a few oil flushes with cheap oil and new filters and be on your way.

I may forget to check this thread but i would appreciate a pm if you post pictures of the pump.

[panman142]

For sure, I will take plenty of pics. And shoot I mine as well see what my price is on a support. I am sure it wont be the last time I need one... I am sure one of my buddies has one also.

[panman142]

Anyone have an idea of what idle oil pressure should be on a completely warm engine with nice thin oil?

[pezgoon]

50 psi?


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[aluthman]

50 psi?


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No. I think 15-20 on a perfectly healthy engine. And by "thin oil" I'm talking 5w-40 or 0w-40. 30 weight and lower would obviously make it go down.

[panman142]

Good stuff. Now I know what to hope for this weekend. Going to see how it does post pick up tube replacement with some 5w-40.

[pezgoon]

No. I think 15-20 on a perfectly healthy engine. And by "thin oil" I'm talking 5w-40 or 0w-40. 30 weight and lower would obviously make it go down.

Oh that's right, that's when driving around duh

damn I feel dumb lol


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[panman142]

Revised pick up tube is here, pan is coming off tonight! Might throw some pics up in a mini DIY fashion for others' future reference if they run across this thread. I did not see any write ups for pickup tube replacement, I did not spend a tonnn of time searching either. If people want to see it I can do a full DIY, that is if I am patient enough

[aluthman]

Revised pick up tube is here, pan is coming off tonight! Might throw some pics up in a mini DIY fashion for others' future reference if they run across this thread. I did not see any write ups for pickup tube replacement, I did not spend a tonnn of time searching either. If people want to see it I can do a full DIY, that is if I am patient enough

After the new pickup finally arrived, I got that bolted in place with a new o-ring & bolt. 15 Nm/11 ft lbs for that guy. You can see hear the backup suction for the pickup. This is a relatively new part revision (not sure how new) that can save your engine in the event the main pickup gets clogged or frozen.



Now it’s time to button up the bottom end. Squirt a bead of sealant on the oil pain seam. Make sure both the block & pan surfaces are clean before doing this.



Install the oil pan bolts & torque to 15 Nm/11 ft lbs. You can see in this picture that I've installed my new crank sensor and knock sensors. The knock sensors get torqued to 20 Nm/15 ft-lbs. Knock sensors can wear out over the life of a car, so I figured I would just get new ones since they were only about $30 each. I just tightened the crank sensor nice and tight.

From my engine build thread^

Not much to replacing it. The annoying part is getting to it, and having oil drip on you the entire time you're working. Pulling the engine would be my preferred method.

[panman142]

Word, The winter has returned here in OH, had a couple days of 50 degree weather last week... itll be fun in the cold with oil dripping everywhere. Really don't think its going to be as horrible as other jobs I've done in the past... Trying to avoid pulling the motor since I do not have a cherry picker anymore and have been kicking around the idea/feasibility of outfitting my garage with a hoist of some sort mounted to the ceiling for when I do end up pulling the motor since space is at a premium... until a few years when ill get a steel barn/building bought and built where I can have a 2 post lift and all the goodies.

[yeoj112689]

Word, The winter has returned here in OH, had a couple days of 50 degree weather last week... itll be fun in the cold with oil dripping everywhere. Really don't think its going to be as horrible as other jobs I've done in the past... Trying to avoid pulling the motor since I do not have a cherry picker anymore and have been kicking around the idea/feasibility of outfitting my garage with a hoist of some sort mounted to the ceiling for when I do end up pulling the motor since space is at a premium... until a few years when ill get a steel barn/building bought and built where I can have a 2 post lift and all the goodies.

I had the same problem up here in Toledo when it got cold. I could not figure it out but I can tell you I swapped out for the 1.8t solution and it ended my pressure problems so I have to assume my pump was the issue or something that got cleaned during the process.

[panman142]

I had the same problem up here in Toledo when it got cold. I could not figure it out but I can tell you I swapped out for the 1.8t solution and it ended my pressure problems so I have to assume my pump was the issue or something that got cleaned during the process.

Now 2 questions for you in that case:

1.) Did you do the 1.8T filter housing and adapter plate?

2.) Do you have an oil pressure gauge?

[panman142]

Update to the thread: Got the oil cooler and filter housing gaskets replaced over the weekend, pressure made a very slight improvement, added the last 2/3 of the bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer and got the pressure to a level where I am comfortable with it for now. Can't drop the pan due to that A/C line running directly under it. Might turn it over to my local Audi . Quoted me $180 to drop pan and replace the pickup. Might see if he can throw a walnut blasting in there and make it an even $300. Anyways I figured that price is not terrible to keep me off the cold garage floor. You guys think thats a fair price?

[aluthman]

Assuming he actually does it and doesn't change the price, I would pay that in a heartbeat.

[panman142]

Assuming he actually does it and doesn't change the price, I would pay that in a heartbeat.

Good stuff, we have a mutual business relationship I guess you can call it, basically he usually hooks it up mad cheap as long as I direct people his way for work

[rongeur]

for 180 to drop the pan and replace the part... like Adam said, in a heart beat.

[panman142]

for 180 to drop the pan and replace the part... like Adam said, in a heart beat.

Good stuff, I usually don't even question him, he installed my coilovers for $250 and that was even with the pinch bolt I broke! If you guys ever find yourself in Ohio and in a pinch his names Cary up at German Auto Pros near Cleveland

[Seerlah]

$180 is well worth the price. If he is a Certified Master Audi Tech, should have no worries. If he hands your car off to one of the other techs, credibility will prove the day.

Having a lift and air tools should make the job a breeze, if whom the person the car is handed to is competent (not including any Certified Master Audi Tech). Beats the crap out of laying on your back in the cold...plus warranties included are a bonus. But $180 is good deal!

[canadianA4B7]

Being a number of recent low oil issue have been raising I have inquired to accusump. I'm not 100% sure if this system can be adapted into our cars but I figured it's worth asking them about. Seems like a system that could solve issues. It seems they have multiple functions. I've asked for some more detailed install instructions. Below is just a link to there product details page. I myself have not seen issues my pressures have been pretty good. I do fear low oil demons and hope to help/provide solutions if I can

Edit: yes 100% these will work. Um well depending on oil cooler setup or if you interested in drilling the oil pan.

http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html

[kTaLgsTo]

That's pretty cool, I would be interested in this even for a lowly stock daily driver... Doesn't seem like a huge pain to install especially if you are doing a build or changing to the new rev of oil pickup...

[Brillo]

Regarding Accusump accumulators, we used them years ago on our race engines. We called them pre-oilers. Since most engine wear occurs during startup before oil pressure is established, when activated a few seconds before turning the engine over these devices would pressurize the oil in the bearings, theoretically eliminating start-up wear. I don't have any idea how much they helped but see no down side to them. Never used one on a DD though.

[Beastopher]

Being a number of recent low oil issue have been raising I have inquired to accusump. I'm not 100% sure if this system can be adapted into our cars but I figured it's worth asking them about. Seems like a system that could solve issues. It seems they have multiple functions. I've asked for some more detailed install instructions. Below is just a link to there product details page. I myself have not seen issues my pressures have been pretty good. I do fear low oil demons and hope to help/provide solutions if I can

Edit: yes 100% these will work. Um well depending on oil cooler setup or if you interested in drilling the oil pan.

http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html

Interesting, but would this just be a bandage to the issues of low oil pressure supply? It seems like once the pressure drops because of a clogged pick up or bad pressure leaks, the system would only provide enough additional pressure to run the engine for a short time.

[kTaLgsTo]

That would be enough time to get off the road and shut it down though...

[Brillo]

In case of an oil pump failure, how would you know if the accumulator was supplying the oil pressure versus the oil pump in order to give you a few moments to shut down in the case of the oil pump failure?? The accumulator is pressurized by the oil pump.