Originally Posted by
egovreau
When would most people consider just going new, rather than just go the less expensive route of replacing the bushings?
Obviously, if the arms show signs of wear or damage, then go new, but if not...?
Reason is, have a set of bushings that I can use either in my B6, or the B5 Passat...
Looking for opinions for either.
Well, for top front, inner large bushings, they start tearing at like 90k.
And with new arms, you're just swapping in parts, no fancy detailed work on a press.
Originally Posted by
tHatOne guY
Easiest- new arms
If you go that route get quality stuff like OEM or Genuine
If you do the bushings only, it's a bit more time consuming obviously but you retain the Genuine arms, hopefully the ball joints are still serviceable
Personally, I like to keep all the parts OEM or Genuine
Yeah but doesn't that mean straying away from FCP, which OG still runs for like $300/kit,
versus $1,000-$1,400 Lemforder? That's a lot.
Plus FCP has lifetime warranty.
Originally Posted by
Ian1006
I tried replacing my bushings...used a press, ujoint clamp, and a hammer all of them somewhat worked for me but I ended up getting new arms as I damaged the arm or bushing on two I tried. Really not worth the effort and I spent money twice instead of once but I also might not have the best adapter set.
Pretty sure it requires properly-sized dies, on a press.
Maybe to remove the old ones first, you can cut out/through the rubber with a hole saw, then cut a slit in the outer metal case with a hacksaw (careful), then hammer it out with a chisel.
Spending hours, sweating a lot.
Which really applies to ANY bushing.
Originally Posted by
Kevin C
I put S4 bushings in my new arms... A bit stiffer than the stock A4 parts. With the right press adapters, it was a pretty quick job.
Which leads me to my next point. I saw an Audi document that says S-line bushings are stiffer than standard A4, to reduce suspension flex under cornering.
And Kevin here used S4 parts.
FCP Op3 also uses S4 TRE's, solid metal.
Originally Posted by
BumblebVR6
I'm using the 034 Motorsport density line lower control arms and upper adjustable arms. Love the combo and no more tire wear due to negative camber.
Expensive, but if you say it works, and maybe it's serviceable. Will 034 be around forever? Is it worth stocking up on some spare parts ahead of time now? That's another question.
Originally Posted by
Kevin C
On my control arms, the joints were getting a bit sticky after 13 years and 140,000 miles. So just bushings would not have been enough. Re-greasing is also an option if you want to keep the factory arms.
That is my next question. You can swap bushings, eBay even had a deal on poly ones, which I hear can tear in this application, as opposed to a poly snub or diff mount.
But what about the ball joints? It's a joint, grease, and boot.
Maybe you can replace a torn boot.
And it's still rubber. Which is affected by heat, age, ozone, oxidation, drying out, etc.
I think they might have a socket cap by design, hidden inside, that's spring-loaded. If the joint wears, it takes up the slack and keeps tension, filling in the gap, to keep it tight. But HOW tight? And does it matter? Notice that with a used joint, you can manipulate it by hand fairly easily.
But on a new one, it's very hard.
On a German Audi forum, I saw somebody put grease-fittings in his. Not sure how. If he drilled a hole in first, before thread tapping it to screw in a fitting, what about all the aluminum shavings? Won't they get forced inside the joint, and abrade things as debris like a rock/pebble, sand/dirt?
Or did he just break it up into steps, going slowly, then backing the drill out so he could pull out any shavings?
Not with a magnet since aluminum isn't magnetic (if the material even is alu).
But maybe with a wet Q-tip, to cling to it?
And then what? Grease it periodically, with excess slipping out of the boot, and wiping it with a towel?
For example, Hotchkis sway bars have grease-fittings on their bushing bracket mounts.
Whereas on OE sway bars, I guess you could take it apart every once in a while, and clean/lube it by hand.
Plus, trucks, and many other cars, don't they use grease fittings too? Whereas Audi, I haven't seen a single one.
And some suggest these cars aren't even designed to last past 100k mi, and becomes OUR problem (rather then the dealerships) once it passes that period.
Which puts a lot of work on our shoulders. I'm not saying it's impossible. Clearly it can be done. OG's has 300k.
But what steps are best to be taken, is the question.
This isn't the actual picture but looks like somebody else did something similar.
Also, I think in the FCP kit, the small bushing that the strut/shock mounts and bolts to, wears pretty fast, and will sag, FWIW.
Because you've got all that weight of the car, sitting on one tiny bushing through the suspension.
I think they offer a stronger Meyle HD part, for like $8/ea. A reasonable price.
So maybe, while you're in there, might as well swap those in before installing?
No offense, but if it comes to a $1,400 kit, I might just have to get out of the game and pick another car. Or no?
All I'm saying is, it's one thing when you're rich and bought a brand new D3 S8, and then needs service. You still see it as a high-caliber luxury performance car.
I guess with one devil (new) you make payments and DON'T wrench. With another, payments on parts, and you DO wrench, days spent underneath a car. Although once every ten years. Control arm service is nowhere near as frequent as oil changes.
What about an old stickshift Honda. Maybe it has NEITHER. No new payments. No expensive parts either. Be honest. This hides in the back of everyones minds.
But this could be an irrelevant strawman argument.
All I'm saying is, please don't tell me the kit is $1,400.
Fine. A lamborghini bushing kit might be $4,000+. But my point is, I'm not trying to drive that right now..
Looks like other makes including BMW and Merc might have their standard procedure listed as replacing joints..
Leading me to wonder if we can also do such a thing and if so, how.
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