Down pipe??

[nsh95]

Which is the right one for me? I have a 2000 Audi TT Quattro. There seems to be a 225 K04 down pipe and a K03 and another version for the FWD car..
https://www.amazon.com/Quattro-00-06...di+tt+downpipe
^^ I think?

[MrWick]

I think the 225 Quattro's were the K04. The FWD 180's were K03's

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[nsh95]

I think the 225 Quattro's were the K04. The FWD 180's were K03's

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Right however the two 180 HP cars the FWD K03 and the Quattro K03 seems to be different down pipes for each car?

[vtraudt]

I will also need to get downpipe in the spring. Mine is 2001 TT225 Quattro 6 spd, so definately K04, but I found that auto/manual as well as quattro/FWD often makes big differences in the design/fit of the downpipe (and had my fair share of non-fit cases on A6/S4/Allroad).

[nsh95]

Also anyone have a rough idea of how long it takes to swap the down pipe on the 180HP TT and does anyone have a clue which down pipe fits which which cars??

[nsh95]

I figured out the K03 has a 4 bolt pattern and the K04 has a 3 bolt pattern. As for the FWD I'm still unsure.

[vtraudt]

I ordered mine (Mk1 tt225qm). Will find out if it fits.

Also debating if I should try to take the 'resonator' (or 'pre muffler') out and replace with a straight pipe (from the slip joint coupler straight into the bend of the muffler).
The pipe is 2.5" OD (on my TT225qm).

[ttycmtty]

I'm sure you've looked into but I plan on getting the 42 Draft Designs Audi TT 180Q 3" downpipe when the time comes, which definitely fits. Sometimes it's just worth it to spend the money...I've had some cases where the cheap exhaust eventually breaks or cracks at the welds near the hangers and then you're stuck with an exhaust into the car. Linky

[vtraudt]

I received my 'standard ebay' downpipe for my MK1 TT225 manual.
As usual, looks good in the box.
Removal of the old was a huge PITA.
Bolts where relative easy (mine where not rusted solid, surprise; since the car has big subframe rust issues, body o the other hand is rust free. Must be our Michigan winter and sitting more than driving).
I tried too long to get the old wiggled out with just the rear of the subframe dropped as far as possible (NO GO).
Only then did I get the saw-saw out and cut through the flex pipe section of the downpipe. Was easy then.

New pipe was surprisingly easy to get in. Slide rear section in (no cat), connecting to existing stock pipe (2.5" OD). All good.

Tighten every up. Good.

Then: found that upper section of downpipe is pressing against the chassis BIT time. Tried to 'dent' the pipe while installed, no luck.

Test drive confirmed. Big rattle when getting off gas.

Will have to do for now until time when billet turbo and high flow manifold go in (spring/summer). I will then take the downpipe off again and squeeze flat by putting into vise. Should not be a problem to create a 1 inch 'dent' to clear the chasis.

Probably a stiffer 'dog bone' engine mount also to restrict movement of the engine (moving the downpipe around relative to the chassis) to avoid pipe hitting chassis.

At least it was cheap....
But then again: I have had high priced exhausts/downpipe giving me fit issues.

[ttycmtty]

Yeah bolts usually are the biggest problems. I definitely used a saw-saw to get the downpipe off of my last car as it had this unbelievably obnoxious 7 inch bracket on it and then the new one dropped right in no problem.

I think you'll be okay putting that "dent" into the new downpipe since it's catless, you won't have a problem with airflow.

034 motorsports makes really solid mounts. I know they have a street density and track density replacement dog bone mount for our application. If I remember correctly the street density one is sub $100...maybe it's $80? They also have solid engine mount upgrades as well but those can get pricey quickly.

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