B8 S4 Complete DSG Maintenance Service & Sport Differential Service DIY

[DaveLinger]

Hey everyone!

So I picked up my 2011 S4 a few weeks ago, with 97k miles on it, and no maintenance records. I decided that before I drive it too much, I'd do some of the major maintenance that I have no way of knowing if it's already been done.

It's common knowledge that the DSG service interval for fluid and filter change is every 35-40 thousand miles. Based on what I've read here on AudiZine, some dealers/mechanics think only the fluid needs to be changed, some think just the cooling filter needs to be changed, etc. This DIY will cover replacing all of it.

However, the oil change interval for the differentials is more murky, and the "ATF" fluid change for the sport differential is basically completely unknown, based on what I've been able to research.

So I gathered up the necessary parts and carried out the services today. First, I will go over the DSG service.

DSG Service

Note: This DIY may only apply completely to 2011 model year vehicles with the same transmission configuration as my car. As always, you work on your car at your own risk. These instructions are provided on a "best effort" basis only.



Parts list: (Bold = mandatory. Otherwise, recommended.)

• 7 liters of DSG fluid, part number G052529A2. (or equivalent. I used Liqui-Moly DSG fluid)
• DSG Filter, part number 0B5325429E.
• DSG Cooling Filter, part number 0B5325330A, and cooling filter housing o-ring (part number coming soon) (This is NOT present for all years/models. See the illustration below.)
• Transmission pan gasket, part number 0B5321371E.
• Transmission drain plug crush washer, part number N0138271.
• 15 transmission pan bolts, part number N91096801.
• Filter mounting seal, part number WHT003379.

Some people recommend that you actually replace the drain and fill plugs themselves - but I think replacing the washer is plenty.



These are the two types of DSG cooling filters present in our cars. Item #5 in the top/left side of the illustration is the type that has to be completely replaced. I will not be covering this style. The bottom/right part of the illustration shows the cartridge-style filter (item #10) that I will be replacing.

Procedure:

1. Jack up the car and ensure it is level. If available, use a lift.
2. Remove the belly pan by removing the 8 belly pan screws with a flat or philips head screwdriver - 2 in the front, and 3 on each side near the fender liner (red), and loosening the 3 belly pan screws at the back of the belly pan (orange). Edit: It has come to my attention that your car probably has a rear belly pan also. Mine only has the front one. Remove both if you have them.
3. Remove the cross-brace support under the transmission pan by removing the 6 18mm bolts holding it to the subframe (green). You will need to remove a 10mm nut attaching the power steering line to the top of this brace before it can be removed.
   
   
   
   
   
   You should now have this:
   
   
   
   This is what the cartridge-style DSG cooling filter housing looks like:
   
   
   
   And here you can clearly see the DSG drain plug on the bottom of the pan, as well as the DSG fill plug on the side of the transmission. The plug is the same size and takes the same 10mm hex bit. You can also see the power steering line loop with the mount that has the nut holding it to the brace we just removed, on the left side of the picture:
   
   
   
4. Remove the DSG FILL plug described above with a 10mm hex bit. No fluid is likely to come out. We are removing the fill plug first so that if you can't get it to budge, you will be able to drive your car to a shop to get it worked on, rather than being stuck with a drained transmission.
5. Remove the DSG drain plug with a 10mm hex bit and drain the fluid into a clean container. I'd recommend a clean bucket with markings for fluid level.
   
   
   
6. Start removing the 15 T30 transmission pan bolts, being sure to leave one partially installed as well as one on the opposite side, so that the pan will remain in place until you are prepared to remove it.
   
   
   
7. Carefully remove the last two bolts while holding the transmission pan up. Lower the pan and dump the fluid into your bucket. I wasn't fully prepared for how much fluid was left in the pan after draining, and made a bit of a mess.
   
   
   
   You'll now have this:
   
   
   
   You can see the filter you need to remove. Reach in and pull the filter back toward the rear of the car to free the filter. There's nothing else holding it in; it will pull right out.
   
   
   
8. If your car has it, it's now time to swap out the DSG cooling filter cartridge. Put a 17mm socket on the end and unscrew the housing. It should move very easily, as it is installed with very little torque. Once the cap is off, the filter will pull straight out of the housing.
   
   
   
   
   
   My old filter looks bunched up at the end. Happy to be swapping it out. This is where the large o-ring goes (around the edge of the filter housing cap):
   
   
   
9. There will be enough residual oil inside the cap for you to lubricate the new o-ring. Also apply some oil to the small o-ring that comes pre-installed on the end of the filter cartridge, then push the cartridge into the housing on the car.
   
   
   
10. Finish by re-installing the housing cap and torquing to 8nm. I didn't have a torque wrench that would go that low, so I estimated.
    
11. Take this time to clean up your transmission pan, now that it's been removed. Clean any residue off of the two magnets, and thoroughly clean the gasket seating surface. Mine had lots of silicone residue from where I guess the last person performing the service went a little overboard.
    
    
    
12. Open the packaging for your gasket, and apply it to the pan. It has a few rubber pegs that fit into holes in the pan's flange. You will see I have already installed the new drain plug - I haven't torqued it yet, just screwed it in place with the new crush washer.
    
    
    
13. Here's the trickiest part of the whole job. Remember how the filter inside the transmission was seemingly not held in by anything, but was probably holding its position? You will need to install the new filter such that it will hold its position at least long enough for you to get the pan back in place.
    
    The tiny o-ring listed above actually goes around the "+" that is coming out of the top of the filter, and that "+" then fits into the bright silver colored round mount inside the transmission - but it won't HOLD it there. The o-ring is seemingly only to reduce vibration/movement.
    
    I noticed that the filter immediately sagged once installed, before I could get the pan on. I was able to "fix it" by cleaning the filter's orange rubber seal and its mating surface in the transmission with brake cleaner to make it "clean and dry", rather than coated in oil like you imagine you'd want it. Now it holds its position pretty well. One the pan is on, it won't be able to move. Sorry I don't have better pictures of this - but it's pretty obvious where it goes if you see it in person.
    
14. Raise the pan into place, and screw in at least two screws on opposite sides, to hold the pan up. If you don't screw these in all the way, the pan will be able to drop a little, and the filter may move out of place. A helper to hold the pan in place while you put a couple of the screws in is recommended. Screw them all the way in so the pan doesn't move, but do not apply any torque.
    
    
    
15. Screw in the remaining 13 transmission pan bolts, then torque them down in a criss-cross pattern. I believe the torque value for these is 10nm, but I have read online that it may be advisable to apply more like 12-14nm of torque. Unfortunately, I didn't have a working torque wrench in that range, so I tightened them all down to approximately 10nm, then went back over all of them for a couple more passes, increasing the torque a bit more. I could tell that the bolts were soft, and wouldn't take much torque. They were also probably not replaced last time - it was now that I wished I had purchased replacements. Fortunately I haven't had any leakage yet (without any additional silicone sealant) - but I will definitely replace the bolts next time.
    
16. Put on your new DSG drain plug washer, and torque the drain plug down to 45nm.
    
17. Using your favorite fluid pump, begin pumping your DSG fluid through the fill hole into the transmission. I lightly pinched the tubing between the heat shield and power steering line.
    
    
    
    
    
    I have the DSG fluid bottle inside the trash can so it will be raised up high enough and won't fall over. This pump sucked ass. Would not recommend.
    
18. Once fluid starts running out of the fill hole as you are filling it, remove your tubing and lightly install the fill plug. Mine took around 4 liters at this point.
    
19. Start the car, and quickly switch from park to reverse, to neutral, to drive, and back to park. This will prime out new filters with fluid, and allow us to continue the fill. But we don't want the engine or transmission to warm up yet, so shut the car off and remove the fill plug again.
    
20. Resume pumping the DSG fluid into the transmission until it begins to run out of the fill hole again. Then remove the tubing and reinstall the plug lightly.
    
21. Start the car and let it idle. You want the transmission fluid temperature to reach 40C. This can easily be measured via VCDS. If you don't have VCDS, an infrared thermometer to the transmission pan may work. But I didn't test it, so I can't vouch for how close that reading will be.
    
22. Once the transmission fluid has reached 40C, with the car running, remove that DSG fill plug one more time, and let excess fluid drain out. The fluid is now at the proper level. Reinstall the fill plug and torque to 45nm (no washer). Shut the car off.
    
    Now, assuming you don't have any leaks, you're done! Re-install that support brace and torque down the bolts. I don't know the actual torque value on these, but mine were EXTREMELY well fastened when I took them off, and the bolts/nuts are VERY stout, so I torqued these down to about 120 lb/ft. Re-install your belly pan and you're all set!
    

Edit 1/25/23 - Here's some extra info from mcoomer:

For the DSG, once serviced you need to perform the clutch adaptation. This calibrates the pumps and clutch plates in the DSG.

1. Connect VCDS, and monitor ATF Temperature. ATG Temp must be between 40-60C. Select Control Module, Drivetrain, 02-Auto Trans, Adv. Meas. Values, and search for ATF. Select ATF Temperature and if necessary start the car, or go for a short drive to reach the desired temp.
2. Once at temp, select Done, Go Back to exit ATF Temp monitoring. Turn the engine off.
3. Assuming you are at the main VCDS screen, Select Control Module, 02-Auto Trans, Basic Settings.
4. From the drop down, select Erase Counter for Start Stop Process.
5. Hit Go. The status bar should show Running, followed by Not Running.
6. Hit Stop, then Go Back.
7. Start the car.
8. Select Basic Settings, then from the drop down list select Clutch Valve Calibration.
9. Hit Go. RPM will rise slightly as the calibration is performed, and the status bar will show Running. When complete the status bar will show Finished Correctly.
10. Hit Stop, then Go Back.
11. Select Basic Settings, then from the drop down list select Distance Sensor Calibration.
12. Hit Go. Your DSG will make noise during this calibration, and is normal. When complete the status bar will show Finished Correctly.
13. Hit Stop, then Go Back.
14. Turn the engine off, but leave the car keyed on.
15. Select Basic Settings, then from the drop down list select Reset Start Point Adaptation to Factory Settings. When complete the status bar will show Finished Correctly.
16. Hit Stop, then start the car and wait for the car to MMI to start and beeps to stop.
17. From the drop down, select Clutch Kiss Points (may say Engagement Point Adaptation). Hit go, and wait for Finished Correctly to be displayed. When I did this, the process repeated once and then stayed on Finished Correctly.

If you have trouble with the last two after shutting off the engine at step 14, turn the car off, let it sit for a minute, then turn the key on (do not start the engine) and repeat steps 15 and 16. After that, you can disconnect VCDS and simply drive the car as the DSG calibrates itself, or you can monitor that calibration status by leaving VCDS connected while you drive. If you want to monitor status, go through the process used to monitor ATF temperature but search for adaptation status of engagement point 1 and 2. Select those, and monitor the status. As the clutches learn their new grab points the status will change from calibrating to fully adapted. Use normal mode for an hour, then drive in Sport mode for the second hour. Normal will keep your car in D7, where Sport will keep it in S6 and allow the even and odd gear clutch to adapt. After a few hours, you should be good to go.

[DaveLinger]

Sport Differential Service

Note: This DIY may only apply completely to 2011 model year vehicles with the same configuration as my car. The gear oil does not need to be changed often, and the "ATF" (Transfer Box Oil) apparently only needs to be changed every 100k miles or so.



Parts list:

• 1.5 liters of 75w90 GL-5 gear oil.
• ~500mL of Audi Transfer Box oil. Comes in a 850mL bottle. Part number G052515A2.

You may also want to replace all 4 drain/fill plugs, as they all have integrated crush washers.

Procedure:

1. Jack up the car and ensure it is level. If available, use a lift.
2. At the rear of the underbody, locate the sport differential. It's hard to miss.
   
   
   
3. The drain and fill plugs on the PASSENGER side of the car are for the gear oil. The drain plug is on the bottom, and the fill plug is on the passenger side. You can barely see its blue paint peeking out here:
   
   
   
4. Remove the FILL plug on the passenger side with a 5mm hex bit. We open this first so that if it won't budge, you will be able to drive your car to a shop to have them open it - which you wouldn't be able to do if you had drained the old oil first.
   
5. Remove the drain plug with a 5mm hex bit and drain the old gear oil into a clean container. If you have one with measurements, that is a plus. You will drain approximately 1.5L of oil.
   
   Note: The fill and drain plugs are identical:
   
   
   
6. Once the draining has completed, reinstall the drain plug and torque to spec. I did not know the torque spec at the time of the service, so I winged it. I also didn't know that the plugs had integrated washers. These should be replaced.
   
7. Using a fluid pump, pump your new gear oil up into the fill hole in the differential. It will take approximately 1.5L of oil before running out of the fill hole.
   
8. Reinstall the fill plug and torque to spec.
   

Next, we will change the ATF or "Transfer Box Oil".

1. The drain and fill plugs on the DRIVER side of the car are for the "ATF". The drain plug is on the bottom, and the fill plug is on the driver side. My diff is covered in corrosion, but you can see the fill plug above the big "ATF" stamping, and the drain plug directly underneath:
   
   
   
2. Remove the FILL plug on the driver side with a 5mm hex bit. We open this first so that if it won't budge, you will be able to drive your car to a shop to have them open it - which you wouldn't be able to do if you had drained the old oil first. In my case, old fluid immediately started coming out of the fill hole. I can only assume this means the fluid was somewhat overfilled at the factory.
   
3. Remove the drain plug with a 5mm hex bit and drain the old "ATF" into a clean container. If you have one with measurements, that is a plus. I did not measure how much fluid I drained, unfortunately.
   
   Note: The fill and drain plugs are identical.
   
4. Once the draining has completed, reinstall the drain plug and torque to spec. I did not know the torque spec at the time of the service, so I winged it.
   
5. Using a fluid pump, pump your "ATF" up into the fill hole in the differential. Mine only took about half of the 850mL bottle before running out of the fill hole.
   
6. Reinstall the fill plug.
   
7. Now the system must be bled/primed. This can be done with VCDS (instructions coming soon). In my case, I just drove the car, being sure to engage the sport differential in both ways (accelerating out of hard left and right turns in dynamic mode).
   
8. Remove the fill plug again, and resume pumping in the "ATF" until it runs out of the fill hole again. Mine took about another 100mL.
   
9. Reinstall the fill plug and torque to spec.
   
   That's it!
   

Edit 1/25/23 - here's some extra info from mcoomer:

To prime your sport diff pump:

With the sport diff filled to overflowing, and the fill plug in, connect VCDS to the car.
Power your car but do not start the engine.
Select Control Module
Select 22-AWD
Select Security Access. Hover over the access key field and VCDS should prompt you to enter the value shown. I used 20103, as shown. Select Do It!
Select Basic Settings.
From the drop down list, select Prime Pump. When you activate this, you will hear the pump run for a moment and stop. I repeated this twice.
Back out of VCDS, shut off the car, remove the fill plug and fill the sport diff to capacity.

[DaveLinger]

Reserved for center differential/DSG gear oil DIY.

I'm pretty sure it's as simple as:

Parts list:

• 4.5 liters of 75w90 GL-4 synthetic gear oil, part number G055532A2 (or equivalent. I used RedLine MT-90. DO NOT use a GL-5 rated oil*) You may see the oil referred to as "manual transmission oil", which is expected. We are servicing the half of the DSG transmission that is the same as a manual transmission.

Optional: Replacement drain and fill plugs.

*Notes: The center differential shares oil with the DSG transmission's gears and synchros. This is why the capacity is so large, and also why it's so important that the oil you use is GL-4 rated, and NOT GL-5 rated. GL-5 rated oils contain additives that have been known to eat away at brass transmission components such as gear synchros. This is not an issue in the rear differential, which is why we used GL-5 oil in it.

Procedure:

1. Jack up the car and ensure it is level. If available, use a lift.
   
   
   
2. Remove center differential FILL plug with a 10mm hex bit (same as DSG fill/drain plugs). We are removing the fill plug first so that if you can't get it to budge, you will be able to drive your car to a shop to get it worked on, rather than being stuck with a drained differential.
3. Remove center differential drain plug with a 10mm hex bit and allow gear oil to drain into a clean container. A container with measurements is a plus so you can ensure you refill approximately the same amount of fluid you drain out.
4. Reinstall drain plug and torque to 45nm.
5. Pump in ~4.5L of the GL-4 75w90 synthetic gear oil, until the oil begins to run out of the fill hole.
6. Reinstall fill plug, torque to 45nm.

However, it's possible that the transmission mount will have to be removed to get at the drain plug. In which case there will be additional steps before and after. I will update once I have performed the service.

[theweebabyseamus]

Well written!

[Bikel]

outstanding contribution... thanks Dave!

[Johnnycash]

wow. kudos to you for selflessly writing up this detailed analysis!

[Sukks2bu]

Awesome, thank you.
This post is what forums should be all about.
Thanks again.

[skiptowncat]

Sticky??

[dResign]

Very nice documented.
Some red marks on the pictures would make it even better for the non-experienced workers

[AudiSTL]

damn well written man good job should be helpful to many

[13ttaz]

Excellent, detailed, clear DIY DSG transmission service write-up! That is how it is done folks. And tremendously timely for me as I am planning to do this service tomorrow!

May you never be visited by flat beer or unpleasant wedgies the rest of your days DaveLinger.

[jygesq]

very instructive even for those of us who will never do this ourselves, like me. THANKS

[14S4GWM]

Great job

[ellwood]

for the sport diff ATF fluid, the system needs to be bled after it is refilled using VCDS. group 22 four-wheel electronics -> adding ATF. the ATF level is correct when the rear final drive is filled to the bottom lip of the filler hole

[DaveLinger]

Excellent. Thanks for the tip. I will perform the bleed and top off ASAP and update the post.

[LurkAllDay]

Great write-up. I hope this gets stickied.

[DaveLinger]

So I put the car back up on jack stands today to re-check the "ATF" level.

On VCDS, I wasn't able to bleed the pump, unfortunately. Controller 22, Adaptation doesn't seem to have anything related to pump bleeding, nor does basic settings. However, output tests does list "Bleed pressure lines" as an available test - however if I try to run it, I get "Refused by Control Module, Message 7F 2F 33".

Anyway, I am guessing the VCDS "bench bleeding" of the system is only necessary if you want to complete the job in one go, without having to drive the car and come back. I assume that by driving the car and utilizing the sport diff, the system was still bled. I was able to add an additional 100mL of fluid (approximately) to the ATF cavity today.

@ellwood, I am interested in what you think about this.

[whiped]

Here are some random tidbits:

Component	Torque (Nm)
ATF Housing/Pan	10
ATF Drain Plug	45
ATF Fill and Check Plug	45
Transmission Fluid (MTF) Fill and Check Plug	45
Transmission Fluid (MTF) Drain Plug	45

Checking Fluid Levels:
The ATF level is checked at the ATF inspection plug. ATF level is correct if a little bit of fluid still leaks out of the ATF inspection plug between 30 °C and 50 °C (86 °F and 122 °F) (dependent on the fluid level rising as the fluid warms up).

Filters:
There are 2 different ATF filter versions depending on the engine and the date of manufacture.
Inline filter(5) & Exchangable filter(10):




Random Pics for you:


I can find more/upload images if need be. All the above images are from an A4 manual but they are the same as the S4 one.

Sadly I wasn't find anything to bleed the system without using specialized audi tools

[DaveLinger]

Thanks a lot Geoff! I will get these incorporated into the main thread. Just to clarify, you are referring to the DSG fluid when you say ATF, right? You aren't referring to the sport differential "ATF"? I assume the sport diff fill and drain plugs take much less than 45nm of torque, and I don't think temperature matters for the sport diff ATF fill.

[whiped]

ATF should be DSG in all cases but Let me confirm, I just copied it off a table from the service manual and didn't cross reference it to anything.

[whiped]

Let me give this another go.

1. ATF Drain Plug
􀁺 Tightening specification, refer to item 1: ATF DRAIN, FILL AND CHECK PLUGS ASSEMBLY OVERVIEW
2. Seal
􀁺 Replace
3. Bolt
􀁺 Tightening specification and sequence, refer to Fig. 2
4. Expanding Rivet
􀁺 For attaching the gasket to the ATF oil pan
􀁺 Not required for installation
5. Magnet
􀁺 Quantity: 2
􀁺 Insert into the depression in the ATF oil pan
􀁺 Make sure the entire surface contacts oil pan
6. Bolt
􀁺 Replace
􀁺 Tightening specification and sequence, refer to Fig. 3
7. O-rings
􀁺 Replace
8. ATF Pressure Pipes (coupling pressure)
9. Retaining Plate
􀁺 For the ATF pressure pipes (coupling pressure)
10. Bolt
􀁺 10 Nm
11. O-rings
􀁺 Replace
12. O-rings
􀁺 Replace
13. ATF Oil Pipes
􀁺 Different versions, depending on date of manufacture
14. O-rings
􀁺 Replace
15. O-ring
􀁺 Replace
􀁺 Different versions, depending on date of manufacture
16. ATF Filter Housing
􀁺 For transmissions with an ATF filter
􀁺 Different versions, depending on date of manufacture
17. O-ring
􀁺 For transmissions with an ATF filter
􀁺 Replace
18. ATF Filter Cover
􀁺 For transmissions with an ATF filter
􀁺 Tightening specification, refer to ATF COOLER, ATF PIPES AND ATF FILTER OVERVIEW
19. ATF Filter
􀁺 Replace each time the ATF is changed and after performing a repair on the transmission
􀁺 Allocation, refer to the Electronic Parts Information, is also called a filter
􀁺 Removing and installing, refer to ATF FILTER
20. Bolt
􀁺 10 Nm
􀁺 Quantity: 3
􀁺 For transmissions with an ATF filter
21. O-rings
􀁺 Replace
􀁺 For transmissions with an ATF filter
22. ATF Return Pipe
􀁺 For transmissions with an ATF filter
􀁺 Removing and installing, refer to ATF COOLER, ATF PIPES AND ATF FILTER OVERVIEW
23. ATF Supply Pipe
􀁺 For transmissions with an ATF filter
􀁺 Removing and installing, refer to ATF COOLER, ATF PIPES AND ATF FILTER OVERVIEW
24. Bolt
􀁺 Tightening specification, refer to ATF COOLER, ATF PIPES AND ATF FILTER OVERVIEW
􀁺 For transmissions with an ATF filter
25. Bolt
􀁺 10 Nm
􀁺 Quantity: 3
􀁺 For transmission with ATF pipe filter
26. ATF Return Pipe
􀁺 For transmission with ATF pipe filter
􀁺 Removing and installing, refer to ATF PIPES or ATF PIPES
27. Bolt
􀁺 For transmission with ATF pipe filter
􀁺 Tightening specification, refer to ATF COOLER, ATF PIPES AND ATF FILTER OVERVIEW or ATF COOLER, ATF PIPES AND ATF FILTER OVERVIEW
28. O-rings
􀁺 Replace
􀁺 For transmission with ATF pipe filter
29. ATF Pipe Connection
􀁺 For transmission with ATF pipe filter
30. ATF Pipe Filter
􀁺 Replace the ATF pipe filter whenever replacing the transmission or repairing the transmission
􀁺 Removing and installing, refer to ATF PIPE FILTER
31. ATF Fill and Check Plug
􀁺 Tightening specification, refer to item 4: ATF DRAIN, FILL AND CHECK PLUGS ASSEMBLY OVERVIEW
32. O-rings
􀁺 Replace
33. Bolt
􀁺 8 Nm
34. Connector Housing
-- To remove, remove the bolt -33- and turn the connector housing counter-clockwise.
35. Transmission Housing
36. O-rings
􀁺 Replace
37. ATF Oil Pipes
􀁺 Refer to the Electronic Parts Information because there are different versions depending on the date of manufacture.
38. Bolt
􀁺 8 Nm
39. Cable Guide for the RPM Sensors
40. O-ring
􀁺 Replace
41. ATF Suction Filter
􀁺 Removing and installing, refer to ATF SUCTION FILTER
42. DSG Transmission Mechatronic -J743-
􀁺 Removing and installing, refer to DSG Transmission Mechatronic -J743-
􀁺 Perform "Guided Functions" using the vehicle diagnosis tester after replacing the DSG transmission Mechatronic. Refer to TRANSMISSION GUIDED FUNCTIONS .
􀁺 Separate the circuit board from the DSG transmission Mechatronic. Refer to Description and Operation
43. Gasket
􀁺 Replace
􀁺 Installing AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID OIL PAN
44. ATF Pan
􀁺 Removing and installing, refer to AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID OIL PAN

Fig. 2: Identifying ATF Oil Pan, Tightening Sequence
Courtesy of AUDI OF AMERICA, LLC
-- Tighten bolts in 2 stages as follows:
-- Install the bolts -arrows- hand-tight.
-- Tighten the bolts -1 through 15- diagonally to 10 Nm and in steps.

Fig. 3: Identifying Mechatronic, Tightening Sequence
Courtesy of AUDI OF AMERICA, LLC
-- Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm in the following sequence: -1 to 6-.

FASTENER TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS

Component - Nm
ATF Filter to Transmission - 10
ATF Pipe Filter to Transmission - 10
Cable Guide for the RPM Sensors to Transmission - 8
Connector Housing to Transmission - 8
Connector Piece for ATF pipes - 8
Retaining Plate for the ATF Oil Pipes - 10

[bhvrdr]

Wow, thanks so much for the writeup. So what do you think about the bleeding and making sure we get enough fluid in there? Does it seem safe to do this the manual way by driving it a bit and then topping off or do we need to do the Audi specified bleed procedure?

Mike

[DaveLinger]

I would like some technician insight on that as well, Mike. I assume the manual bleed procedure is fine considering it only took another 100mL post-drive (so at worst you're 100mL low for one drive), but I would definitely feel better about recommending it if someone with more knowledge in this case could chime in.

[Andrew Lane]

Awesome write up on the DSG service! I just bought my 2014 S4 in the fall and am almost due for this job!

[Usa]

Nice post dude!

[tmackowiak143]

This is exactly what I was looking for!!! Great writeup. I've been scouring YouTube hoping to find something. This is the closest I've come, and it's a VW https://youtu.be/AyfkGTfa9cU

Sent from my SM-N900V using Audizine mobile app

[kristokes]

Thank you for the great write up, Dave

[DaveLinger]

This is exactly what I was looking for!!! Great writeup. I've been scouring YouTube hoping to find something. This is the closest I've come, and it's a VW https://youtu.be/AyfkGTfa9cU

Sent from my SM-N900V using Audizine mobile app

Yes, that was the procedure I approximately followed when doing the DSG service on my mk5 GLI. The B8 S4 is easier in some ways (dedicated fill plug versus filling through the drain), and harder in some ways (have to drop the pan and change the gasket versus only changing the cartridge). Neither is particularly difficult though. Just time consuming.

I've updated the thread with some new pictures and have put together an outline of the center diff service.

[nowak]

Do you guys know how to do adaptation for DSG?

So gearbox know how to setup clutch for each gear etc??

[K1aus]

Thanks for the nice DIY, hard to come by on this platform.

Have you looked into changing the front diff fluid? I have found absolutely no info on it other than it takes 1L of the same 75w90 gear oil G052515A2 as rear diff.

[jsh139]

Really nice write-up!

[gscottyg]

Nice write up dave but I think you are crazy for buying a DSG with 97k miles! I hope is was cheap and you have money :0

[shadycrew31]

Quick question, you mentioned a slow leak could be possible when reusing bolts. I have a slow leak and reused bolts, just wondering if you have seen this before. My original guess was a bad mating surface between the gasket and the trans but if I need new bolts as well I can give that a shot.

[Whistle]

Excellent work Dave! Thank you for the DIY. I've added link to the Ultimate DIY & FAQ sticky.

[DaveLinger]

Quick question, you mentioned a slow leak could be possible when reusing bolts. I have a slow leak and reused bolts, just wondering if you have seen this before. My original guess was a bad mating surface between the gasket and the trans but if I need new bolts as well I can give that a shot.

This is my first DSG job which required dropping the pan, so I have never seen a leak before. However, I was VERY meticulous at cleaning/prepping the pan/gasket mating surfaces before putting it back together.

If I were you, I'd buy the new bolts, and one at a time, take out and old one and put a new one in, and torque to spec. Maybe a little more. If that doesn't fix it, then you'll have to drop the pan to fix the gasket surfaces.

@Whistle - Thanks!

[S4Sanity]

I will file this for my reference. I shall use this. Great job


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[AUDacIouS4]

I just did mine, 2010 and it did not have the small cooling filter cartridge. I used about 6.5 liters of fluid as well.

One thing I will add is that when installing the internal filter for the DSG, it should wiggle it's way in and stop once it's inserted far enough so that no more of the orange rubber is showing. On the top side of the filter you will see a plus symbol that is raised, this lines up in a cylinder hole on the inside of the casing. It acts as a guide to ensure the filter is seated in the correct position.

Thanks for the write up mate!!@

slave of corruption

[shadycrew31]

This is my first DSG job which required dropping the pan, so I have never seen a leak before. However, I was VERY meticulous at cleaning/prepping the pan/gasket mating surfaces before putting it back together.

If I were you, I'd buy the new bolts, and one at a time, take out and old one and put a new one in, and torque to spec. Maybe a little more. If that doesn't fix it, then you'll have to drop the pan to fix the gasket surfaces.

@Whistle - Thanks!

Thanks for the advice! I cleaned both surfaces very well however I did not use brake parts cleaner or any harsh chemicals as they have ripped paint off of pans for me before. So there was still some trace residue I am sure. I feel that once the gasket gets saturated it will always have a way out of the pan but I can try the new bolts out just in case.

[isles1]

Well done. Thank you!

[13ttaz]

I found the difference between the existing and new pan bolts to be pretty striking. Thought I would try to sneak by using the existing pan bolts since this was the first transmission service. Mistake. Snapped one off in the bottom of the transmission and had two or three others that I could feel were starting to twist on themselves and daring me to keep going! Pulled them all, even the broken one came out easily when harassed with a drill bit on reverse, and ran to the dealer for new ones. The new ones went in smoothly, confidently and triggered the torque wrench "click" consistently at 12 ft lbs. So save yourself the time and elevated heart rate and get new one-time use trans pan bolts.