S6 Wastegate Actuator Vacuum Lines

[AWOL]

I am having issues with my driver side wategate actuator staying closed once I turn on the car. I decided to test the actuator by hooking it up to the passenger side vacuum line and it works as it should. So this tells me something is wrong with the driver-side line connection, not the actuator.

Does anyone have any other diagrams for the vaccuum lines? #28 goes to somewhere in the front of the engine bay, behind the radiator fans, but I cant see where that line goes to or connects to?



Im wondering if I can tee off the passenger side and just run a new hose to the driver side actuator as a temporary fix. Anyone have any experience with these vacuum lines or have any recommendations?

[widebodyfx]

From the self study guide both wastegates are controlled off the same (N75) valve.

[saxon]

more than likely it popped off the n75 valve.

[Sanjman]

Im actually a little surprised that one wastegate works and not the other in this configuration because if the line has popped off then there would also be a leak causing the other wastegate to only hold temporarily while the pressure tapered off.

A better guess is the line is pinched or clogged! Glad it's something simple though and nothing more serious!

[AWOL]

Im actually a little surprised that one wastegate works and not the other in this configuration because if the line has popped off then there would also be a leak causing the other wastegate to only hold temporarily while the pressure tapered off.

A better guess is the line is pinched or clogged! Glad it's something simple though and nothing more serious!

The malfunctioning side has very high vacuum, and pulls the actuator closed. Its not leaking more so too much vacuum. I can pop off the line and feel it suck onto my finger and stay there. I was wondering if I can cap that line off, and then tee off the other line and run to both actuators.

This is still extremely helpful info, but I cant find this N75 valve under the hood, or a legit part number for the s6 n75 valve. Im thinking that may by the culprit all together.

[saxon]

It's a boost control solenoid, I don't see why you' couldn't just use the one side and t off it

[AWOL]

Tee'd it off. Actuator remains open at idle and gets pulled closed when I rev it (as it should). Car runs much smoother at part throttle and no longer "chugs" along at highway speeds when trying to merge as seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfJEqyz2XPI

I plugged the driver side tube that was causing the issue. My concern now is that I don't think Im getting full boost at WOT, looking at my lap timer gauge. I'm thinking one side of this N75 valve is not strong enough to hold both actuators tightly when WOT. I will keep it this way for now, but any other ideas? Part #s for this valve? I can take a video and will report back.

[saxon]

Log requested boost vs actual boost. If you have APR you should be able to do it via the dongle if you don't have vagcom

[AWOL]

It looks like as the revs climb, the boost falls off. It shifts, gets back to full boost and repeats.



I do not have the dongle or VCDS

[MadAboutCars]

You need to get a VCDS. You may be in a partial limp mode due to DCT's (fault codes), which can cause what you are seeing. VCDS will allow you to clear the DCT's and tell you about other problems you may have.

[Sanjman]

You don't NEED VCDS to clear fault codes. But you should consider getting that or the dongle if you have Apr for logging purposes. You can go to O'Reilly or AutoZone to clear DTC fault codes in a pinch. A great cheap tool is getting the ELM OBDII dongle with the Carista app

Also from the video that seems normal you don't stay in boost through your entire pull. It's supposed to taper down and build back every shift

[AWOL]

I have a generic obd2 scanner and ability to erase codes. I did have my usual 2 pending o2 sensor codes, but forgot to clear right before the video. Im not sure if that would effect the boost, maybe I will try again.

As for full boost, Im comparing it to this video (not my car) and how it used to be for me with the one wastegate essentially permanently closed:

[saxon]

I would buy a new valve and new line for that bad side

[AWOL]

I would buy a new valve and new line for that bad side

I called the local Audi dealer to request a part number for this N75 valve. The parts guy wouldn't give me the part number because Audis parts a "proprietary" and don't want me to shop around. I was quoted $130 for the part. Does anyone have any way to find a pn to see if this is a fare price? I was also quoted $66 for the lousy windshield washer pump which I can find for much much less.

[GolfGL]

I called the local Audi dealer to request a part number for this N75 valve. The parts guy wouldn't give me the part number because Audis parts a "proprietary" and don't want me to shop around. I was quoted $130 for the part. Does anyone have any way to find a pn to see if this is a fare price? I was also quoted $66 for the lousy windshield washer pump which I can find for much much less.

I had a hard time finding this part as well. Couple of shops weren't sure of the PNs. Finally an Indy shop thinks they have the right PN... it comes up as a solenoid actuator and is more common in diesel engines according to my mechanic. I haven't yet gone ahead with the work... apparently the bumper and radiator needs to come off for access.

[Sanjman]

Genuineaudiparts.com

[RAF_S7]

Here is a link to the EKTA parts list, not sure if this helps you or not.

[saxon]

What are the exact trouble codes your having? Unfortunately the generic obd2 reader won't help as much as vagcom

[GolfGL]

My mechanic ordered 059906627L. This was after the first 2 orders were wrong. Can anyone confirm? I still have to go in for the appointment.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Audizine mobile app

[RAF_S7]

My mechanic ordered 059906627L. This was after the first 2 orders were wrong. Can anyone confirm? I still have to go in for the appointment.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Audizine mobile app

I can't find that part listed for a 4.0TT when I search using http://www.oemepc.com/audi/

[AWOL]

What are the exact trouble codes your having? Unfortunately the generic obd2 reader won't help as much as vagcom

All o2 sensor codes.

P0140
P0141
P0160
P0161
P2273

Dealer diagnosed the rear o2s as bad. In a previous thread, I bought and installed these sensors to no avail. Codes still come back after clearing. I'm wondering if there's some sort of fuse or relay that's junk.

Either way, I don't think these codes have to do with the boost issue. This mystery N75 valve is my next focus (if we can find out part numbers, details, etc), but the car is a lot nicer to drive once I tee'd off the lines.

[saxon]

All o2 sensor codes.

P0140
P0141
P0160
P0161
P2273

Dealer diagnosed the rear o2s as bad. In a previous thread, I bought and installed these sensors to no avail. Codes still come back after clearing. I'm wondering if there's some sort of fuse or relay that's junk.

Either way, I don't think these codes have to do with the boost issue. This mystery N75 valve is my next focus (if we can find out part numbers, details, etc), but the car is a lot nicer to drive once I tee'd off the lines.

Did APR say the car was stage 1 or stage 2?

[AWOL]

Did APR say the car was stage 1 or stage 2?

APR V1 when I bought it. Updated it to APR V1.1 when I switched it to my name.

[saxon]

APR V1 when I bought it. Updated it to APR V1.1 when I switched it to my name.

thats the version, was it a stage 1 or a stage 2 tune?

possibly the previous owner had downpipes on the car and didnt install the o2 sensors correctly

[AWOL]

thats the version, was it a stage 1 or a stage 2 tune?

possibly the previous owner had downpipes on the car and didnt install the o2 sensors correctly

Thats all I know.

Im putting my tail between my legs and finally have the dealer not only diagnose, but to try and fix these codes next week.

[Sanjman]

Thats all I know.

Im putting my tail between my legs and finally have the dealer not only diagnose, but to try and fix these codes next week.

Why not take it to an APR shop and have them flash you back to stock for 50-75 bucks? Much cheaper than going in to the dealership for a stupid 200 dollar diagnostic +labor for doing the same.

Also... I'm doing some digging... this is a placeholder for the parts... so bare with me as I dig... (for 2013 s6 model)
079145461H adjust motor left (early 2013 models)
079145461K adjust motor left (late 2013 models)
079145462M adjust motor right (early 2013 models)
079145462M adjust motor right (late 2013 models)
079131055CP vacuum tube left
079131055CQ vacuum tube right

[bja72774]

Where is the N75 valve located in the engine bay? I see the two wastegates but dont see where the lines go. I got Code 12266 while running a Stage 1 tune, but recently had the turbos replaced. Might be why?

[bja72774]

So I found a split line in the coolant line that goes in by the cap, could that result in the same code reading? Maybe not.

[bja72774]

So I checked both lines by the wastegate and both have vacuum.... not sure why then I am getting the P0299 code. Any ideas?

[wwhan]

So I checked both lines by the wastegate and both have vacuum.... not sure why then I am getting the P0299 code. Any ideas?

You might consider Flashing to stock and have an Audi expert check all the vacuum lines and elecrical connections to the electronic solenoid valves and sensors.