02115 - An indepth look into the failure and how to R&R the door lock module

[GilliamOS]

Had to replace a door lock module on my car, fault "02115 - Locking Unit for Central Locking " stored in the door module. Went with what I thought was a German-made Gepco on eBay, I am confident it was made in China. No country of origin anywhere on it or the box.

Got it installed, tested fine mechanically and what I thought electrically. It caused the car to think it's not fully locked and the touch sensor in the door only locks, not unlocks the car. It's also still setting the same code in the door control module.

So I took apart the original part and checked everything out. The little motor is what was giving the original issues, so I washed it out with some electric motor cleaner and put everything back together. The motors can be bought locally at RC shops and online for under a dollar to a couple bucks for a multi-pack. They are standard 1.5-3V, 12k RPM DC motors and quite easy to get at inside the lock module.

There is little reason to buy the full lock module unless there are other plastic components broken. Yes, the Porsche module is around $140 shipped from parts.com, but why spend $140 to replace an $0.80 component?

Below are the pictures I took from the job, which I found annoying but quite doable. You will need a triple square driver to remove the bolts on the door and catch plate if adjustment is needed.

[3g_bishi]

You have a strong heart, I would kill my self taking that apart


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[Spawne32]

Looking at the internals of that POS, and realizing that audis only come with a 4 yr/50,000 mi basic, 4 yr/50,000 mi powertrain warranty, makes me reconsider ever buying one again. My brother just got a 2017 AWD nissan pathfinder SV with a 7 year 100k bumper to bumper warranty for half of what these things cost.

[GilliamOS]

The one with the dual motors is the Chinese POS I am sending back. I should have clarified.

[GilliamOS]

You have a strong heart, I would kill my self taking that apart


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I owned my last A4, a B5, for 11 years. Once you figure out how things are put together, they are really simply to work on.

[Spawne32]

The one with the dual motors is the Chinese POS I am sending back. I should have clarified.

How is it cheap, it looks like it has a secondary motor and gear to handle a higher load.

[GilliamOS]

Inferior circuitry, plastics, not even remotely enough lithium grease (not pictured), and wrong electronics. That second motor has nothing to do with the door locking mechanism, or my original would have it too. The door also did not open nearly as smoothly as the OEM one, getting hung on the strike plate, even with adjustment to it. It just did not have the same mechanics.

Look at the OEM one; the circuitry is completely encased in resin and plastic, preventing any soldered connections from breaking, and weatherproofing them, TONS of lithium grease, metal used more than plastic. It's a very well made part, structurally speaking.

[Spawne32]

Mine for my drivers door is still on backorder from porsche, but where the hell did you ever even come across a chinese one? Couldnt even find a aftermarket version of the part.

[GilliamOS]

Mine for my drivers door is still on backorder from porsche, but where the hell did you ever even come across a chinese one? Couldnt even find a aftermarket version of the part.

eGhey. Quite a collection of "OEM", real OEM, OES, and Chinese fakes at a wide range of prices. I'm already getting a full refund for my Gepco, it served its purpose as a learning tool for me in figuring this all out.

[The Infiltrator]

Okay so I found the cheapest one but I have a question. Do the teeth that's attached to the motor slide off and onto the new one?

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...MM10-/28-12811

Also, this one says counter clockwise. Is there a clockwise that I may need instead? You're very vague I'm your post so I'm assuming you swapped motors and returned the part never going to the store. I could be a dick and wrong but, that's what I'm leaning towards.

[GilliamOS]

Okay so I found the cheapest one but I have a question. Do the teeth that's attached to the motor slide off and onto the new one?

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...MM10-/28-12811

Also, this one says counter clockwise. Is there a clockwise that I may need instead? You're very vague I'm your post so I'm assuming you swapped motors and returned the part never going to the store. I could be a dick and wrong but, that's what I'm leaning towards.

No, I have yet to replace any lock module motor at all. Simply cleaning it brought it back to life. That's also the same listing I found, but have yet to order any replacements. That particular one may not work without some modifications as it is has solder tabs on it. The ones in the lock module sit on two connectors protruding from the white housing (visible where the second motor would sit in my pictures).

The gear on the shaft simply slides off with a little bit of pull and presses on a new motor shaft. The polarity of the power determines the direction the motor spins, nothing else.

[CONative]

@Lambda13 - this should be added to the DIY section

[The Infiltrator]

Okay so I found the cheapest one but I have a question. Do the teeth that's attached to the motor slide off and onto the new one?

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...MM10-/28-12811

Also, this one says counter clockwise. Is there a clockwise that I may need instead? You're very vague I'm your post so I'm assuming you swapped motors and returned the part never going to the store. I could be a dick and wrong but, that's what I'm leaning towards.

Got ya, I saw the original post before it was edited with more info. I'll have to take it all apart soon to clean mine out and see if that works. It's getting worse and won't unlock and I have to lock, unlock, lock, unlock a few times before I can open my door. Fun times.

[GilliamOS]

Got ya, I saw the original post before it was edited with more info. I'll have to take it all apart soon to clean mine out and see if that works. It's getting worse and won't unlock and I have to lock, unlock, lock, unlock a few times before I can open my door. Fun times.

Pay special attention to the blue and orange actuators when you separate the lock mechanisms. They can be difficult to pull apart and could break if you're not careful. When reassembling, make sure they fully engage the white and green plastic mechanical actuators or your door won't lock. Ask me how I know. You can use a small flat head to snap them back together once you get them aligned and they do not need much force to do so.

Once you've separated the electrical from the mechanical and removed all the screws, it will take some considerable force to separate the electronic housing halves. It is not glued or plastic welded, it's just a damn good seal. I found a nice wide opening to start prying with a flat head that could take the pressure without damaging anything.

[jfo]

Here's another thread on this issue. It's interesting that this one has two motors similar to the replacement unit the OP initially received. It's a Dublin car, so it's the passenger door also but on the left side. I don't know if the drivers door is different other than orientation.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...8#post12124198

[The Infiltrator]

Here's another thread on this issue. It's interesting that this one has two motors similar to the replacement unit the OP initially received. It's a Dublin car, so it's the passenger door also but on the left side. I don't know if the drivers door is different other than orientation.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...8#post12124198

Thanks! I'll be using these threads when it warms up and I can feel my hands doing it.

[GilliamOS]

Here's another thread on this issue. It's interesting that this one has two motors similar to the replacement unit the OP initially received. It's a Dublin car, so it's the passenger door also but on the left side. I don't know if the drivers door is different other than orientation.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...8#post12124198

Oh wow, I never saw that post! That's funny how close it is to mine in time and scope. I do try my best to take hi-res, in focus pictures so it's clear what's going on to people reading the post.

[jfo]

Oh wow, I never saw that post! That's funny how close it is to mine in time and scope. I do try my best to take hi-res, in focus pictures so it's clear what's going on to people reading the post.

Indeed, your pic's are great. What do you make of the 1 vs 2 motors?

[GilliamOS]

Indeed, your pic's are great. What do you make of the 1 vs 2 motors?

The only internal mechanical connection on the orange actuator is for the child safety lock, which is normally turned on/off on the side of the door with your key or screwdriver. Maybe there's an option in Europe or on other models that use that for additional locking options. I'm not sure, I'm simply speculating based on what I see mechanically.

[elscotto80]

Excellent write up. My passenger front door was having intermittent locking issues, confirmed with a scan. I just took apart the lock actuator and have everything apart. All "looks" ok, but i do see some darker spots on the motor power tabs. What exactly did you use to clean the motor and how did you go about that? I saw on that other guys post where he removed the end of the motor to clean the shaft and all. I tried to pull up on the tabs on the motor housing and broke a small flathead in the process.

I was going to blast some air in the motor and see if that helps unless you can share how you cleaned it with electrical cleaner?

Thanks!

[kzyman13]

I noticed that when I had mine apart previously that the tabs were on the other end of my motors compared to some of the other actuators online. Does anyone have part numbers for tabs close to gear vs tabs at rear of motor?

[4lane]

Pay special attention to the blue and orange actuators when you separate the lock mechanisms. They can be difficult to pull apart and could break if you're not careful. When reassembling, make sure they fully engage the white and green plastic mechanical actuators or your door won't lock. Ask me how I know. You can use a small flat head to snap them back together once you get them aligned and they do not need much force to do so.

Once you've separated the electrical from the mechanical and removed all the screws, it will take some considerable force to separate the electronic housing halves. It is not glued or plastic welded, it's just a damn good seal. I found a nice wide opening to start prying with a flat head that could take the pressure without damaging anything.

When disassembling, can you describe what you did again? I took out all the screws and it looked like I was going to break something with the force I was giving to open it up.

[elscotto80]

When disassembling, can you describe what you did again? I took out all the screws and it looked like I was going to break something with the force I was giving to open it up.

You just need to carefully pry it and it will separate. Just be careful.

[fel0ncod3]

Anyone know if Home Depot or Ace would have this motor?

OP - when you say cleaned it out, did you open the tiny motor up and clean that out or just the connections from the motor?

[elscotto80]

Anyone know if Home Depot or Ace would have this motor?

OP - when you say cleaned it out, did you open the tiny motor up and clean that out or just the connections from the motor?

I cleaned the motor contacts and blasted air through the openings in the motor. Worked for me.

[boasist]

Thanks for this. I have to do this to my driver door which actually doesn’t lock, it always stays open.

[jang]

Hello in 2020.
Was in same situation. US car, problems with door lock actuator. Ordered new, cheap version online.
Replaced it and got "02115 - Locking Unit for Central Locking 008 - Implausible Signal". As a result, car doesn't blink and chirp when locking.
Tested out old one with multimeter to figure out how it works.
Got same oem actuator with one motor - without dead lock - US version (same as OP). The new one is RoW two motor version, with deadlock (also as OP got :) ).
Used VCDS to test measuring blocks channel 1, problem is, that door ecu doesn't see that car is locked, thinking its unlocked and causing problems.
Removed the new actuator to test it out with multimeter. Figured out why the new one wasn't working properly:

1. Actuator is for RoW cars not US.
2. Even if pinout for actuator connector is the same, deadlock status micro-switch is causing the problem.

Pinout for US actuator:
door locked = 6 & 3 open connection (lock micro-switch open)

Pinout for RoW actuator:
door locked = 6 & 3 ~120ohm resistance (lock micro-switch open)
door locked + deadlocked = 6 & 3 open connection (lock micro-switch open) + (deadlock micro-switch open)

Conclusion: door ecu thinks that car is locked, if there is no connection between pins 6&3.
To modify RoW door lock actuator for US, so it would work properly, need to remove resistor from the circuit.



Good luck. Maybe this helps someone in future.

[rcprato]

I went a different route after buying lock actuator on eBay to fix my left rear door and realized it wasn’t correct and bought the Audi part through the Porsche parts network online from Sunset Porsche for a lot less then through Audi parts network
Porsche box with Porsche P/N

Audi Lock Actuator inside with Audi P/N




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[Spawne32]

hey i just replaced that exact same one on my car lol

[rcprato]

hey i just replaced that exact same one on my car lol

This is 2nd one I replaced in 6 months and now RF door is acting up, big PIA


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[Spawne32]

This is 2nd one I replaced in 6 months and now RF door is acting up, big PIA


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Since I bought my car a few years ago, i have had to do every door from left to right in a clockwise fashion. lol started with the drivers side front, and went all the way around until i just had the rear driver fail on me a month ago.

[pgrobin]

i did two door locks on my A4 Avant three years ago. You perform the same tasks for replacement as for repair, except you fix the old unit. The issue with the motor is carbon buildup, no more than that. I use two clothing pins (the very small pins used when sewing cloth) inserted into the electrical connection slots on the motor (once it's been removed from the assembly) and use alligator clips to apply 12 volts to it, briefly. The motor spins up to full speed and cleans itself up internally. I have sprayed a small amount of WD-40 into the motor to free up dirt. Spin it a couple of times, put it back together. Then put it back in the door for many more years of service.

This is not a difficult job, but you do need to pay attention to how the assembly is put together so you can get it back together correctly.

[Theiceman]

Hello in 2020.
Was in same situation. US car, problems with door lock actuator. Ordered new, cheap version online.
Replaced it and got "02115 - Locking Unit for Central Locking 008 - Implausible Signal". As a result, car doesn't blink and chirp when locking.
Tested out old one with multimeter to figure out how it works.
Got same oem actuator with one motor - without dead lock - US version (same as OP). The new one is RoW two motor version, with deadlock (also as OP got :) ).
Used VCDS to test measuring blocks channel 1, problem is, that door ecu doesn't see that car is locked, thinking its unlocked and causing problems.
Removed the new actuator to test it out with multimeter. Figured out why the new one wasn't working properly:

1. Actuator is for RoW cars not US.
2. Even if pinout for actuator connector is the same, deadlock status micro-switch is causing the problem.

Pinout for US actuator:
door locked = 6 & 3 open connection (lock micro-switch open)

Pinout for RoW actuator:
door locked = 6 & 3 ~120ohm resistance (lock micro-switch open)
door locked + deadlocked = 6 & 3 open connection (lock micro-switch open) + (deadlock micro-switch open)

Conclusion: door ecu thinks that car is locked, if there is no connection between pins 6&3.
To modify RoW door lock actuator for US, so it would work properly, need to remove resistor from the circuit.



Good luck. Maybe this helps someone in future.

nice work .. that is very good analysis work.

[92fifth]

Sorry to bump an old thread but wanted to clarify...

I've fixed the initial issue years ago where the lock died and got a china/ebay replacement actuator in my car (locks the car but no chirp - Implausible signal)

If I remove the resistor on pins 6/3 of the actuator the signal should now be plausible and result in a locking chirp? Just wanted to confirm before I try it out this weekend. Thanks!

[rcprato]

I've got a brand new left side actuator, 8K0839015A (Porsche P/N 9A783911501) if you are interested.

I sold my A4 so $30 and I'll send USPS Priority Mail today

[92fifth]

I've got a brand new left side actuator, 8K0839015A (Porsche P/N 9A783911501) if you are interested.

I sold my A4 so $30 and I'll send USPS Priority Mail today

PM'd