Driver Seat Power not working...soak carpet underneath. Fuse location?

[audi_nightrider]

It was raining hard in SoCal last wekk and my A5 was parked outside the whole time.

Im sure the window was NOT open. Can't determine where it came from as only the bottom part is really wet and not the sides.

Guessing the electronic stuff underneath the seat got wet and hopefully no need to replace all the electronic stuff except the FUSE.

Where is the Fuse located for the driver seat? Thought it would be the same location as my B6 A4's, which is underneath the steering wheel but no fuse to be found there.

I already dried the carpet just not got a chance to remove the seats and totally dry the wirings. Already removed the battery to try to restart it but no luck.

Can anyone help where to find the fuse? Heat doesn't work as well for the driver seat only.

Thanks in Advance!

[HazeMyth]

Do you have an owner's manual? The fuse locations are listed in your owner's manual. Keep in mind though, heated seats and power seats are generally on separate fuses. I would maybe unplug the seat module located under the seat and make sure it's all dry before plugging it back in. It should be a little black box located under the seat.

[audrobotic]

There are various drains that can get clogged and lead to overflow into the cabin. I think one place to check is under the windshield cowl. I think there is a sunroof drain too.

[DBS]

Chances are your sunroof drain is clogged. Same thing happened to me, my floorboard on the drivers side was getting soaked when it rained.

[audi_nightrider]

It might be the a/c condenser leaking just what I've read about from other threads. Just having trouble trying to find out if they really released a TSB other owners have mentioned.

I was leaning towards drains being clogged too but it has been almost a week since it last rain and the water keeps on going back even after I dry it. I will dry it at night and then water will come back the following morning.

The buttons since to be working now because I can hear the clicking noise while trying to adjust it with the seat buttons and memory seat buttons, it just won't move. Only thing that was moving was the power headrest.

Is it the CCM that is located underneath the driver seat just like older Audi models? Everything electrical works perfectly except the driver seat.

[chirish83]

Did you ever figure this out? I'm having the same issue and there's no fuse for the power seat that I could find in the manual.

[HMS]

Try this: slide the seat ALL the way forward and then ALL the way backwards, usually that resets the fuse, save from water damage/blown fuse

[audi_nightrider]

Did you ever figure this out? I'm having the same issue and there's no fuse for the power seat that I could find in the manual.

Nope, not yet. Have you?

Was looking for Comfort Control Module since it's usually the module under the driver seat but then found out there's a separate module for the driver's power seat alone.

[DMG_A5]

Had the same issue after quite a bit of water got into my car (2012 A5 Cabriolet), just the driver's power seat would not move. There was about two inches of water on the floor of the backseat.

Did the following to try and troubleshoot:
- Dried everything out with some large fans, and a small hair dryer (the hair dryer was used to dry the small compartment set into the carpet under the driver's seat, where the wiring loom from the seat connects).
- Checked every fuse with a multi meter. (Since the manual doesn't provide an exact named fuse, I just checked them all.)
- Ran a VAG COMM test, got multiple errors. The CAN BUS said it was down. So there was more than just no power to the seat.
- Swapped the seat control module from the passenger seat and the driver's seat, the passenger seat still worked using the driver's seat control module, but the driver's seat still would not move. The control module for the seat is a small box with a few attached connectors mounted to the bottom of the seat. I couldn't move the seat to get at the 4 bolts which mount the seat rails to the floor, so i instead undid the two bolts which mount the front of the seat to the rails on the floor (they are mounted horizontally underneath the front of the seat, and need an Allen wrench to get at them, the head of the bolt faces inwards). This allowed the seat to tip backwards, pivoting on the remaining two bolts. Doing this gave me access to the seat control module, and a good view down into the compartment set into the carpet where the seat wiring connects. Doing this check also confirmed i didn't need a new seat control module (good thing considering what they cost).
- Checked for power on the red connector in the compartment set in the carpet under the seat (compared the readings I got to the passenger seat readings). I wasn't getting power on the red connector (I was on one of the others, green I think, for the seat heater).
- Used a tone generator to try and trace the connector which should have power, to see where it went. Some of its wires ran under the trim towards to the fuse panel at the left side of the dash. Discovered that the power wire wasn't generating a tone any further than the connector under the carpet.
- Pulled up the entire junction box (the black plastic frame and the 4 colored connectors mounted in it) from the compartment set in the carpet under the drivers seat (it has one bolt mounting it to the floor on the rear side, and just clips in at the front), I discovered several wires had literally corroded to bits on the bottom side of the red connector. Based on how bad they looked it can't have happened from just this one instance of water getting in, it must have had a water leak which happens to pool where those connectors are. I was able to re-use the existing pins from that connector (to get those pins out you need to push something into the two holes on either side of the connector pin from the front, flattening both ends of a paperclip with a hammer worked surprisingly well as a makeshift tool). Once I cleaned up the two corroded wires and soldered them back into the pins, i just had to push them back into the connector, and then reattach everything.

Once it was all back together it all started working fine, still don't know which one is the correct fuse, but checking the bottom of those connectors might save someone the many hours it took to find.

[Roger955]

Excellent, excellent, excellent, post, DMG_A5.

With the benefit of your post, I've worked my way into the little black box containing the 4 connectors, in the floor pan beneath the driver's seat.

I have one question, with which I hope you can help:

Were you able to remove the black box without disconnecting at its source (somewhere beneath the car), the wire bundle leading into the black box from its underside? Or was there enough slack in the bundle to be able to lift the black box out of the hole?

Given how much work it's been to get this far, I don't want to make a mess of it by pulling out the black box and breaking some wires, or worse.

Thank you.

[Dan255]

Excellent, excellent, excellent, post, DMG_A5.

With the benefit of your post, I've worked my way into the little black box containing the 4 connectors, in the floor pan beneath the driver's seat.

I have one question, with which I hope you can help:

Were you able to remove the black box without disconnecting at its source (somewhere beneath the car), the wire bundle leading into the black box from its underside? Or was there enough slack in the bundle to be able to lift the black box out of the hole?

Given how much work it's been to get this far, I don't want to make a mess of it by pulling out the black box and breaking some wires, or worse.

Thank you.

There is enough slack to pull the box up through the carpet. The wiring from the box just runs to the left under the carpet then under the trim on the drivers frame rail, nothing that you’d have to get under the car to access.

[Roger955]

There is enough slack to pull the box up through the carpet. The wiring from the box just runs to the left under the carpet then under the trim on the drivers frame rail, nothing that youÂ’d have to get under the car to access.

Thank you.

Following DMG_A5's directions, and with the benefit of Dan's post, I was able to lift the box out of the hole in the floor pan. Just like DMG's, mine had two wires in the red connector which were so badly corroded, they'd broke off. It took me an hour and a half to remove just one connector pin (first I had to free up the pin which was essentially frozen in place by all the corrosion. DMG's paperclip suggestion was very helpful.

Incidentally, I removed the entire seat by removing the 4 bolts which fastened it to the seat rail. Again, without the benefit of DMG's post, I'd not have known how to do it. It's tricky though, as first the storage box must be removed from beneath the front of the seat (I have sports seats - I don't know whether all seats have the storage boxes.). Then, to detach the seat from the seat rails, the 4 torx bolts must be removed, which is tricky as they are difficult to access (espeically if the seat died in a position close to the dash). Those torx bolt heads can be easily stripped. Great care and steady hands are required.

NOTE - THERE IS A WAY TO REMOVE THE BOLTS ATTACHING THE SEAT RAILS TO THE FLOOR, EVEN WHEN THERE IS NO ELECTRICAL POWER TO THE SEATS:

With the seat out, I discovered it is easy to detach the cable (beneath the front of the seat) which runs from the seat motor to the gears which move seat fore and aft. The cable is protected by a corrugated plastic tube (which runs from the left track to the right track) and which is attached to the seat with one clip.

Once the tube is slid off the cable, the cable can be effortlessly pulled from the motor (it's a friction fit - square end in a square hole), and then, by attaching a drill to the end of the cable, the seat 'truck' can be easily moved fore and aft. In this manner, one can access the 4 bolts which secure the seat track to the floor - spin the cable to move the seat forward, remove the two rear bolts, then spin the cable in the opposite direction to move the seat aft, and then remove the two front bolts. Once the electrical connectors are seperated, the seat can be lifted out of the car. Protect the sill with a blanket - the seat is HEAVY.

[parth155]

Excellent forum. I have similar issue with my 2005 A4 convertible. Had 2 inch water on passenger side and power seat no longer works and it is stuck in full forward position.
Facts: My driver side power seat is working fine. I tested passenger side fuse in kick panel at A-pillar and its good too. Passenger side seat heating works but no seat movements. No airbag lights.
My goal was to remove the seat and check power connections in red connector under the seat. I was able to remove 2 rear bolts connected to rail and wanted to move seat backwards to remove front 2 screws.
So, I applied 12V to easily accessible elevation motor and made some space to work underneath seat. As mentioned by Roger555, I removed the motor drive cable at motor side and tried to spin right side gear shaft with drill at full torque. I didn't notice that only one side was moving back. Once my right side shaft traveled about an inch, Maybe because I broke the drive cable because left side (motor) was holding it back. So I believe you are supposed to spin both sides simultaneously. Now with broken cable I cant do anything.
1) Does anyone has part number for motor drive cable?
2) I couldn't remove yellow airbag connector or red power connectors with bare hand in limited space. Any special tricks?
3) Forward reverse motor has 4 wires connected to it. 2 power and other 2 small wires. How do I power it to spin it backwards?
4) How many wires are there on red connectors under seat and what should I test for there? Are there any fuse in between that connector and fuse on front A-piller kick panel?

My seat might be dead without motor drive cable, but I just want to set it to seatable position one time and set it there till car die.

[Dan255]

Instead of using the drill, you can remove the four torx bolts (two on each of the rails) holding the bracket for the motor, then just remove the bracket, motor, and driveshafts together. Then you can easily slide the seat back and forth to access the bolts to remove the seat.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[parth155]

I successfully removed seat and red/black connectors looks corroded and beyond fixable condition. Does anyone has connector pinout map? I am interested in power pins. And which pin connections are required for seat movements? I know yellow is for airbag and it's a must. I don't need heated seats.