Torque for installing coilovers?

[alvintoro01]

I just got a new set of Raceland coilovers. I've seen people talking about torque values when installing coilovers. Is it necessary? Or can just tighten everything tight do it? If so I been looking around but haven't found a define answer. What are the torque values for:

Front:
1. Tie rod arm to steering knuckle. Both vertical and horizontal bolts.
2. Lower control arm sway bar end link.
3. Strut fork to hub bolt.
4. Top 3 bolts holding the strut to the vehicle.
5. 2 upper suspension arm bolts.
6. The single nut on top holding the strut assembly together.

Rear :

1. Bolt holding shock to the lower control arm.
2. 2 bolts holding the upper strut mount.
3. Upper control arm to hub.
4. Rear subframe bolts

I don't know a whole lot about suspension and everything. So bare with me. This is my first set of coilovers just looking to lower the car and that's it. Not gonna track it or anything like that. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.


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[Okedokey]

You definitely want to torque them correctly. I would suggest the OEM torque values unless the manufacturer provides alternatives in the instructions etc.

[Low and Behold]

Per Mr. Trent..

Threw in a few extras just in case you or anyone else needed them

Front Torque Specs:

Upper Link to Strut Mounting Plate: 50 Nm (37ft-lb) then 1/4 turn
Pinch Bolt, Upper Links to Wheel Bearing Housing: 40 Nm (30 ft-lb)
Lower Control Link to Subframe: 70 Nm (52 ft-lb) then 1/2 turn
Strut to Lower Control Link: 90 Nm (66 ft-lb)
Connecting Link to Front Stabilizer Bar: 40 Nm (30 ft-lb) then 1/4 turn
Connecting Link to Lower Control Link: 40 Nm (30 ft-lb) then 1/4 turn
Lower Guide Link to Subframe: 70 Nm (52 ft-lb) then 1/2 turn
Lower Guide Link to Wheel Bearing Housing: 110 Nm (81 ft-lb)
Subframe Support to Subframe: 110 Nm (81 ft-lb) then 1/4 turn
Subframe Support to Body: 55 Nm (41 ft-lb)
Stabilizer Bar to Subframe: 25 Nm (18 ft-lb)

Rear Torque Specs:

Upper Shock Mount to Body: 36 Nm (27 ft-lb)
Lower Shock Mount to Stub Shaft Carrier/Wheel Bearing Housing: 150 Nm (111 ft-lb) then 1/4 turn
Stabilizer Bar to Coupling Rod: 45 Nm (33 ft-lb)
Coupling Rod to Control Arm: 25 Nm (18 ft-lb)
Stabilizer Bar to Body: 25 Nm (18 ft-lb)

There is no Torque spec for the bolt that adjusts camber, as it is adjustable.

Hope this helps!

[alvintoro01]

Thank you for the help but kind of need it more dumbed down if you guys could help. I don't know much about what everything is called but I'll put some pictures from the diy video raceland provides and how they refer to each part as.


Front

1. Tie rod arm to steering knuckle


2. Sway bar end link


3. Strut to hub


4. Top bolts holding strut


5. Upper suspension arms


6. Nut holding the strut all together


Rear

1. Bolt holding shock to lower control arm


2. Bolts holding upper strut mount


3. Upper control arm to hub


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[alvintoro01]

Anyone? If someone would tell me the torque for each picture. Would help a whole lot!

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[Low and Behold]

Ugh here you go

Front

1. Tie rod arm to steering knuckle 40 Nm (30 ft-lb)

2. Sway bar end link 40 Nm (30 ft-lb) then 1/4 turn

3. Strut to hub 90 Nm (66 ft-lb)

4. Top bolts holding strut - I think its 70 Nm (52 ft-lb). I'm not positive on this one, I just made mine "Güten-tight"

5. Upper suspension arms - These don't need to be removed completely unless you are changing them out. Since you are lowering the car though, it might be a good idea to adjust them once you're AT DESIRED RIDE HEIGHT. 50 Nm (37ft-lb) then 1/4 turn

6. Nut holding the strut all together - 50 Nm (37ft-lb)


Rear

1. Bolt holding shock to lower control arm 150 Nm (111 ft-lb)

2. Bolts holding upper strut mount - 36 Nm (27 ft-lb)

3. Upper control arm to hub - Not sure - Güten-tight


*I don't remember removing the rear components like this. Maybe I did, but ultimately I loosened the subframe bolts to remove the rear springs. Its been a while. I actually don't remember torquing much of this to "spec" and two years later I'm still fine, so use this as a loose guide.

[alvintoro01]

Ugh here you go

Front

1. Tie rod arm to steering knuckle 40 Nm (30 ft-lb)

2. Sway bar end link 40 Nm (30 ft-lb) then 1/4 turn

3. Strut to hub 90 Nm (66 ft-lb)

4. Top bolts holding strut - I think its 70 Nm (52 ft-lb). I'm not positive on this one, I just made mine "Güten-tight"

5. Upper suspension arms - These don't need to be removed completely unless you are changing them out. Since you are lowering the car though, it might be a good idea to adjust them once you're AT DESIRED RIDE HEIGHT. 50 Nm (37ft-lb) then 1/4 turn

6. Nut holding the strut all together - 50 Nm (37ft-lb)


Rear

1. Bolt holding shock to lower control arm 150 Nm (111 ft-lb)

2. Bolts holding upper strut mount - 36 Nm (27 ft-lb)

3. Upper control arm to hub - Not sure - Güten-tight


*I don't remember removing the rear components like this. Maybe I did, but ultimately I loosened the subframe bolts to remove the rear springs. Its been a while. I actually don't remember torquing much of this to "spec" and two years later I'm still fine, so use this as a loose guide.

Thank you so much 👍 I'll be working on this in the next day or so hopefuly everything goes smooth.

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[marlboro]

Take a look here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ion-components

[Okedokey]

Also just make sure you torque the bolts at lowered ride height or you will destroy your bushings faster.

[alvintoro01]

Also just make sure you torque the bolts at lowered ride height or you will destroy your bushings faster.

What do you mean at lowered ride height? How would I do that?

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[alvintoro01]

What do you mean at lowered ride height? How would I do that? I've seen something somewhere about tighten with loaded suspension. What bolts would that be exactly? How would I access them with the wheel on?

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[Low and Behold]

It means not to torque the control arms while the car is in the air (with no weight on the suspension). Instead, take a jack with a piece of wood (or something) and jack up the hub until it reaches the point where the car starts to lift. This is essentially the height the hub will be at once the wheel is back on and the car is on the ground.

Once the hub is jacked up, you can tighten the control arms. If you were to tighten while everything is in the air, it will add MUCH more stress to the rubber bushings once the car is back on the ground and will wear things out faster.

There are quite a few threads about this if you search

[alvintoro01]

It means not to torque the control arms while the car is in the air (with no weight on the suspension). Instead, take a jack with a piece of wood (or something) and jack up the hub until it reaches the point where the car starts to lift. This is essentially the height the hub will be at once the wheel is back on and the car is on the ground.

Once the hub is jacked up, you can tighten the control arms. If you were to tighten while everything is in the air, it will add MUCH more stress to the rubber bushings once the car is back on the ground and will wear things out faster.

There are quite a few threads about this if you search

Tighten everything to spec doing this? Or just control arms?

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[Low and Behold]

Just the control arms. You'll be fine.

Bravo for seeking such specific info. I just tightened everything by gut/feel. Peace of mind is always good though


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