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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings Velox's Avatar
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    Any tips on removing triple square cv axle bolts

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    Trying to remove the cv axcle And can't get the triple square (star) bolts of. I'm Just usinng a ratchet extension and bit. feels like i'm about to strip the bolts or break the extension.
    Any tips?

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Jul 15 2015
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    Rochester NY

    Use a sharp motion, not a gradual one, so a long cheater is helpful. You definitely need a good quality triple square bit. Genius brand are good.
    If the worst happens, a new shaft is $165 plus 4 for the bolt. Use copper lube : )

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Lol wth is triple square? You mean spline, right? You Americans and your backwards ways...
    http://gm-tools.co.uk/1054,xzn-splin...rive-1-2-.html

    If you cant get an air gun on it then whack the ratchet with a club hammer. Try not to have any extensions on it if you can help it. Make sure the socket is seated properly; clear any crap from the bolts and tap the socket in with a hammer before you go full retard.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings Velox's Avatar
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    I'm dutch and it was called triple square in the diy, and since I don't even know the dutch world for it, I call it triple square. Will try again

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings badger.'s Avatar
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    Mar 31 2014
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    '18 RS3 | '05 S4 Avant
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    I had a couple close to stripping, so I stopped and bought a snap on bit brand new. It is amazing how well a quality bit works. Take your time
    '18 RS3 Glacier White: DS1 Stg 2 | Wagner EVO1 IC | 034 4" Turbo Inlet | 034 4" Intake
    '05 S4 Avant Brilliant Red: JHM Tune | JHMv1 Headers | Fast Intentions Catback | Ported IM & Spacers | JHM LWCP | JHM ATF Cooler | Thor Skid Plate | Koni Yellows | Apikol Rear Diff | JHM LW Rotors | AudioQ 1200D w/Dual 10" CVRs

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings Velox's Avatar
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    Well I have them all out. got a shorter extension and the wacking and sharp motion did the trick. But supposedly you are able to get the shaft out when turning the wheels to the opposite site, and now my shaft is stuck to left of the transmission output plate thing. and on the outer end is half out but also stuck, almost going beserk mode, seems like I have to go to the long way tomorrow. en remove the pinch bolt

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings badger.'s Avatar
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    '18 RS3 | '05 S4 Avant
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velox View Post
    Well I have them all out. got a shorter extension and the wacking and sharp motion did the trick. But supposedly you are able to get the shaft out when turning the wheels to the opposite site, and now my shaft is stuck to left of the transmission output plate thing. and on the outer end is half out but also stuck, almost going beserk mode, seems like I have to go to the long way tomorrow. en remove the pinch bolt
    You can, it is just difficult and takes a lot of turning the wheel to just the right spot and getting things wiggled at just the right angle, and even then it takes some brute force to finally get it out. I think one side is a little easier but I don't remember. If your pinch bolt comes out easily enough doing that will make pulling the axle much less of a geometry game.
    '18 RS3 Glacier White: DS1 Stg 2 | Wagner EVO1 IC | 034 4" Turbo Inlet | 034 4" Intake
    '05 S4 Avant Brilliant Red: JHM Tune | JHMv1 Headers | Fast Intentions Catback | Ported IM & Spacers | JHM LWCP | JHM ATF Cooler | Thor Skid Plate | Koni Yellows | Apikol Rear Diff | JHM LW Rotors | AudioQ 1200D w/Dual 10" CVRs

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Potato, potahto! : )

  9. #9
    Senior Member Two Rings nr103's Avatar
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    Oct 15 2013
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    125000
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    CO

    Thread the axle bolt on half way and carefully tap it with a hammer to help push the spline out

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    '07 S4|Gutted Downpipes|JHM 91 Octane Tune

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    May 29 2010
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    2004 Audi S4, 2008 Audi RS4 Ti
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    Phildelphia / Auckland

    You can go through the wheel well using a long extension and impact. You rotate the driveshaft, to access each fastener, using a screwdriver in the vanes of the brake rotor.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    I gave up on trying to get mine out in situ, but I was removing the engine anyway so that took care of that. But I was thinking that if I had to do it next time, that it could be worth undoing the engine mount a little and lift it an inch or so, if I couldn't loosen the suspension. Not sure if that would work but if you had time/energy, it would be good to know if it's an easy alternative.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings JimmyBones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S4Bennett View Post
    You can go through the wheel well using a long extension and impact. You rotate the driveshaft, to access each fastener, using a screwdriver in the vanes of the brake rotor.
    This.

    If you have to get those six 10 mm triple square bolts loose by hand then do this:
    1. With the wheel off, thread all five lug bolts in a few turns.
    2. Insert a flat head screw driver in the vanes of the brake rotor that are visible through opening in the middle of the brake caliper to lock the brake rotor in place.
    3. Find a set of extensions, 10 mm triple square socket, and ratchet that works to go from the outside edge of the subframe to the inner axle triple square bolts.
    4. Loosen and then remove two triple square bolts.
    5. Remove the screwdriver, spin the brake rotor so that the next two triple square bolts are visible, and reinsert the screwdriver.
    6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until all six triple square bolts are removed.

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings Velox's Avatar
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    Ok I have the damn thing out, pinch bolt was a few seconds work, pb blaster, loosened the nut and pulled out bolt with hand wafter a few twists. no rust at all
    Axle seems in good shape, I'm just gonna replace inner boot in stead of new axle. I have the tripod out of the flange.
    Maybe a stupid question, but how do i properly clean the flange and tripod, want to remove the old grease/dirt. before putting in new grease.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings JimmyBones's Avatar
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    Wipe off with a shop rag or disposable blue rags.

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hooblah View Post
    Lol wth is triple square? You mean spline, right? You Americans and your backwards ways...
    .
    Spline is a generic term and doesn't account for the number of points, although triple square (3 x 4 = 12 points) are most common. Here is a 10 point spline used for some lugnuts. Here is an 8 point spline bit. 6 point splines are called torx/star bits. They all have different names, but all are splines.

  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings
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    But 12 point spline is the most common. Therefore if you buy spline sockets you will end up with 12 point. It would make sense to call them 12-point sockets, not 'triple square' as that's just dumb.

  17. #17
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hooblah View Post
    But 12 point spline is the most common. Therefore if you buy spline sockets you will end up with 12 point. It would make sense to call them 12-point sockets, not 'triple square' as that's just dumb.
    Just because you don't understand doesn't mean it's dumb. Triple square is a specific type of 12 point spline with 90 degree angles between the tips and are different than spline bits. Splines are typically 12 point, but the angles between them are different than triple squares.


    Edit - On that note, as for the original question, make sure you don't have a generic spline bit and you're actually using a real triple square.

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hooblah View Post
    as that's just dumb.
    Convincing argument : )

  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Yeah but as I said, when talking about spline sockets everyone knows it means 'triple square'. I have never seen any other type of spline bolt on a car, and i'm not new to working on them! Must be a yank thing... Maybe Trump will finally give you the metric system, who knows

  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hooblah View Post
    Must be a yank thing... Maybe Trump will finally give you the metric system, who knows
    Interesting, considering triple squares are exclusively used on German cars, as noted by that wiki article.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings Velox's Avatar
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    In did it! I had big trouble getting the upper control arm ball joints (i think it's called) back in. Is there a trick to get these aligned when loose?
    And next week my new engine mounts will be coming in. Will I be able replace them my self. How does it compare difficulty wise to the cv axle replacement job?

  22. #22
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velox View Post
    In did it! I had big trouble getting the upper control arm ball joints (i think it's called) back in. Is there a trick to get these aligned when loose?
    Are you referring to where the 2 upper control arms connect to the steering knuckle? The cylindrical ends of the control arms that connect to the knuckle are movable/rotatable. They might not be angled correctly. Mine were pretty stiff so it took some force to make sure they were angled properly when putting them into the knuckle. Once I was sure they were lined up I tapped on them with a hammer until they slid in.


    Quote Originally Posted by Velox View Post
    And next week my new engine mounts will be coming in. Will I be able replace them my self. How does it compare difficulty wise to the cv axle replacement job?
    I had to remove one of mine when replacing the power steering pump and it was very easy. However, my entire front end was removed because of some other work I was doing, which gave me easy and direct access to the mounts. Without the front end remove I'm not sure whether or not it would be as easy.

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings Willënskraft's Avatar
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    2002 Audi A4 1.8TQ, 2007 Audi A4 2.0TQ
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    Long extension, Liquid Wrench, a hammer, and patience.
    "Beep beeeep bloop boop" - R2D2

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Three Rings Velox's Avatar
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    Ok, thanks,

    I hope i'll be able to do it with the front intact

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings JimmyBones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hooblah View Post
    Yeah but as I said, when talking about spline sockets everyone knows it means 'triple square'. I have never seen any other type of spline bolt on a car, and i'm not new to working on them! Must be a yank thing... Maybe Trump will finally give you the metric system, who knows
    They are called triple square sockets here so that is what I go off of. There are a bunch of things called by different names even by Audi. For example, you call it a steering knuckle that the control arms attach to. It is called the wheel bearing housing in Audi's parts catalog or a spindle in the repair instructions at times. Move on.

    Quote Originally Posted by Velox View Post
    Ok, thanks,

    I hope i'll be able to do it with the front intact
    I replace the engine mounts all the time with the front end on. Just need a stubby 13 mm wrench for the top nut and every thing else is a cake walk.

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