Destroyed Wheel Hub Thread

[Sauci]

Help! I cross threaded one of my lug nuts and ended up destroying the thread in the hub a couple weeks ago. I ordered a new bolt because I thought that might help and I would be able to get it in there and correct the thread but no luck. While trying to fix it I accidentally attempted to put the jacked up nut in one of the different holes and ended up jacking up that one's thread too.

I was so frustrated that I ordered a stud conversion right then and there.

I started installing the conversion today and got the other 3 wheels converted just fine but because the thread is jacked up on this hub I wasn't able to get the stud to fit in the last hub.

I took it to 3 different shops and all 3 said they can't touch it because of the electronic e-brake and one quoted me $850 for a new hub. I walked out real quick.

I found a brand new hub for ~250 but am hesitant to buy it because I'm not comfortable installing it myself and not sure if I need a VAG-COM to release the ebrake to do it which I don't have.

Anyone have any ideas? Can I just use a tap to fix the thread? Or do I have to buy a new hub?








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[Slick_B8]

Where in california are you located? I was having the same issue and multiple places said it couldnt be repaired and that i needed to replace it. I stopped by supremepower in the oc area and they were able to fix the threads with a rethread tool of some sort.

[Sauci]

Where in california are you located? I was having the same issue and multiple places said it couldnt be repaired and that i needed to replace it. I stopped by supremepower in the oc area and they were able to fix the threads with a rethread tool of some sort.

I'm in Ventura county. Id be kind of scared to make that drive on only 3/5 bolts.

[Sauci]

Where in california are you located? I was having the same issue and multiple places said it couldnt be repaired and that i needed to replace it. I stopped by supremepower in the oc area and they were able to fix the threads with a rethread tool of some sort.

Any idea if it was just a tap/die or if it were some sort of helicoil?

[jakeoboy67]

i'd say you definitely need a new hub

if you can thread anything in there anymore, then the hub's threads are probably destroyed

[Alex1188]

By the looks of your wheel lug, id say you should be able to just go buy a tap of the same thread as the wheel lug and clean out the threads on the hub. More than likely there is just a ton of dirt/crap in the threads that is causing the lug to bind/cross thread. Plus a tap is probably only 5$, worth a shot before spending $xxx on a new hub.

[Sauci]

By the looks of your wheel lug, id say you should be able to just go buy a tap of the same thread as the wheel lug and clean out the threads on the hub. More than likely there is just a ton of dirt/crap in the threads that is causing the lug to bind/cross thread. Plus a tap is probably only 5$, worth a shot before spending $xxx on a new hub.

That was my thought as well. That's what I took it to the shop for because I've never done it myself. But I guess I can't really screw it up anymore than it already is.

[Jacon]

You can put in a helicoil, but some shops wont touch the car for liability.

Thats unfortunate, but the correct and safest repair is to replace the hub. :-(

[RW12]

I prefer using keenserts to helicoil, but I would personally replace the hub

[asfastas63]

I don't know how involved replacing the hub is but the carista app works great for disengaging the parking brake. I just used it last weekend for doing brakes.

[Slick_B8]

They cleaned out the threads on mine when they did it. It was bad as yours and its been holding up perfect.

[Sauci]

Ordered a tap from ebay a few days ago, it got here today and worked like magic. It cleaned up the thread great! Got my stud in there with locktite drying right now and should be good to go tomorrow

[eclipse1]

Ordered a tap from ebay a few days ago, it got here today and worked like magic. It cleaned up the thread great! Got my stud in there with locktite drying right now and should be good to go tomorrow

I'm in the same situation. Would you please post which tap you purchased to fix this? Can anyone help with the right item, dimension, etc?

much appreciated.

[Sauci]

I'm in the same situation. Would you please post which tap you purchased to fix this? Can anyone help with the right item, dimension, etc?

much appreciated.

I went to check my ebay history for the tap, but unfortunately it's been over 3 years and ebay does not store purchase history longer than than so I can't see the exact one that I purchased.

The tap dimensions were:
Diameter: 14mm
Thread pitch: 1.5mm

Hope this helps.

[Spawne32]

Everything about this is wrong, first of all, no one in their right mind pays $250 dollars for an OEM wheel hub when you can get febi or a half dozen other brands for $100 bucks or less. Second, tapping it will certainly clean the debris out of the threads, but if the threads themselves are gone that far back into the hub, your not actually catching on anything but a thread or two. Lastly, you should never be using loctite to put your wheel bolts on. Well wait thats not lastly, the last thing about this is that the electronic parking brake has nothing to do with any of this, that sounds like an excuse for the shop to get you out because they dont want to deal with it or they want to charge you an insane amount.

You ideally should be replacing the hub, the problem is its in the rear, and even if it wasn't , you want to be doing the bearing at the same time, because you can't reuse them once you separate the hub. That's where the bulk of the labor charge comes in because its a more complicated procedure to do those rears. Be careful what you torque that bolt to, because you are likely not hanging on by much now.

[Spawne32]

I prefer using keenserts to helicoil, but I would personally replace the hub

Agreed, I may have to keensert my oil pan soon enough.

[Tineo]

It's best if you replace the hub

if the car is NOT quattro, it is easier to remove the bearing and then remove the hub .... but when removed, the bearing can be damaged so the most interesting thing would be to install new hub+bearing at once.

[flowhigh]

The OE Audi/VW hubs are more in cost cause they go though a hardening process the cheaper aftermarket hubs don't. If you ever get to inspect one of the knock-offs you can see how soft the material is.

[Spawne32]

The OE Audi/VW hubs are more in cost cause they go though a hardening process the cheaper aftermarket hubs don't. If you ever get to inspect one of the knock-offs you can see how soft the material is.

Don't buy knock offs, buy legitimate aftermarket hubs that are induction hardened... audi does not make their own hubs. Lemforder sells most of the audi OEM parts with the audi logo ground off for a fraction of the OEM price.

[Theiceman]

Ummmmmm...........

Don't buy knock offs, buy legitimate aftermarket hubs that are induction hardened... audi does not make their own hubs. Lemforder sells most of the audi OEM parts with the audi logo ground off for a fraction of the OEM price.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app

[Spawne32]

Ummmmmm...........

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app

ummm? a knockoff is different from an aftermarket part...

[bloodstar57]

Just thought I update this and share my experience . I had a similar problem on the B9 RS5 and I fixed it. Things to note: The hubs are very very hard and thus the threads are tough. What I found was that the hub threads were full with that metal of the crossed threaded lug. I even tried to use a thread tap and found that the hub threads destroyed tap.

Solution: used a high carbon thread chaser to clean the threads.
It was hard to thread initially but it gets better as it cleaned out the threads. Used cutting lubricant and kept tightening and loosening until i can hand tighten.
https://a.co/d/5tNE7pw
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...store_set=true

Hope this helps for posterity!!!!