S3 Mag-Ride EDC Calibration

[roadrunner_oz]

I had my mag-ride / EDC recalibrated at Audi dealership today after suspension drop with new springs.

I did not do the re-calibration with my H&R springs some 8 months back, but read mixed reports that it was required. After installing the ED lowering springs last week I decided to get the shocks re-calibrated. I called 3 dealers, 2 of which said it wasn't required, while the other said it has to be done. I asked a contact in Germany who works at an Audi dealership, and he too stated it must be done. The cost was 1hr labour ($200AUD)

The logic is that the dampers need to know their 'zero' position when standing/static. After lowering springs are fitted, the dampers are too compressed to regain their factory 'zero' standing position. Whilst driving on the road the dampers cannot make the correct adjustments as they are unaware of the actual true 'zero' position as the correct basis point.

The results of EDC damper re-calibration:
- The car certainly feels more re-active to road conditions. Simply put, the damping is just better and more compliant.
- suspension feels smoother over bumps and bounce seems further minimised in conjunction with ED springs.

IMO worth doing if you have modified your ride height. This process could be done through VCDS if anyone had the security code for the 'Suspension Electronics' module, however no one seems to have it.

[geralis32]

Would be interesting to see how this reset would have gone with the H&R super sport springs
might have to chuck them back i and give it a go

[roadrunner_oz]

Would be interesting to see how this reset would have gone with the H&R super sport springs
might have to chuck them back i and give it a go

Thought same, but $700 labour for a swap & alignment, I'd need to be sure. May explain why the H&R ride deteriorated over the months.

Wait and see what the ED fix is

[MkUrMark]

Anyone know if Magride wear faster like normal OEM shocks do when lowering the with aftermarket springs?

[rs200z]

Thanks for the feedback Roadrunner. Now if only we can hack the mag-ride module security codes so we can re-calibrate via VCDS. And also will be nice to hear back from owners with H&R Springs to see if it helps with the ride quality after the calibration.

[RupertPupkin]

This is good news, but until we know what they are doing when they re calibrate then it doesn't help. For all you know they took your money and just disconnected the battery. We need someone who is a tech to tell us the exact process. How do we get this effing code to get into module 14?

[roadrunner_oz]

This is good news, but until we know what they are doing when they re calibrate then it doesn't help. For all you know they took your money and just disconnected the battery. We need someone who is a tech to tell us the exact process. How do we get this effing code to get into module 14?

LOL... how is disconnecting the battery going to reset damper position.

Reputable dealer, whom I trust. I waited for the job to be done and I could see the car hooked up to Audi online system in the workshop. Doesn't take more than 15 mins, but with checking tyre pressures, road testing etc they get away with charging 1 hour min. The tech's just follow the instructions spat out from the Audi system. Pretty sure I have the procedure in the Elsa manuals.

Good luck getting the VCDS code as the module locks for around 15 minutes after 3 incorrect code entry attempts.

EDIT:
here is the extract from workshop manual for changing shocks

[magnessr]

This is really good to hear. I will be installing H&R Super Sports and will be having this done afterwards. Wont happen for a month or so, but I'll let people know how much of a difference it makes.

[RupertPupkin]

LOL... how is disconnecting the battery going to reset damper position.

Reputable dealer, whom I trust. I waited for the job to be done and I could see the car hooked up to Audi online system in the workshop. Doesn't take more than 15 mins, but with checking tyre pressures, road testing etc they get away with charging 1 hour min. The tech's just follow the instructions spat out from the Audi system. Pretty sure I have the procedure in the Elsa manuals.

Good luck getting the VCDS code as the module locks for around 15 minutes after 3 incorrect code entry attempts.

EDIT:
here is the extract from workshop manual for changing shocks

You took that too literally. My point was how did we know it is a real process and your screenshot proves it is. Now we just need to know how to do it with VCDS or be able to go to our dealers and say, hey do this. Good info.

Would be nice to figure this out as a DIY for when we lower the cars since it doesn't seem like anyone in the U.S. has had this done after lowering.

[949]

LOL... how is disconnecting the battery going to reset damper position.

Reputable dealer, whom I trust. I waited for the job to be done and I could see the car hooked up to Audi online system in the workshop. Doesn't take more than 15 mins, but with checking tyre pressures, road testing etc they get away with charging 1 hour min. The tech's just follow the instructions spat out from the Audi system. Pretty sure I have the procedure in the Elsa manuals.

Good luck getting the VCDS code as the module locks for around 15 minutes after 3 incorrect code entry attempts.

EDIT:
here is the extract from workshop manual for changing shocks

hey on a different question, do you have instructions on how to remove the center shifter console area?
(maybe with pics?

[MerlinS3]

Just had my HR super sports put on and did not re-calibrate my Mag ride shocks. Asked the tech and foreman at our dealership if it needed to be reset and both stated it wasnt necessary to do. However I do need to readjust my headlights as they are lower now. May just have them re-calibrate just for safe measure

[roadrunner_oz]

Just had my HR super sports put on and did not re-calibrate my Mag ride shocks. Asked the tech and foreman at our dealership if it needed to be reset and both stated it wasnt necessary to do. However I do need to readjust my headlights as they are lower now. May just have them re-calibrate just for safe measure

I also got conflicting reports from techs. The Audi repair manual of Elsa states that if springs are replaced, even OE for OE, then the 'Adapt Control Position' procedure must be done.

[will13k7]

someone get the code from an Audi tech buddy please

[JohnnyUtah787]

I also got conflicting reports from techs. The Audi repair manual of Elsa states that if springs are replaced, even OE for OE, then the 'Adapt Control Position' procedure must be done.

Seems like doing it certainly won't hurt.

[roadrunner_oz]

someone get the code from an Audi tech buddy please

Codes used to be in repair manuals, but techs no longer need them as the Audi System now automatically passes the authorisation through to the relative control module. Ross Tech would need to crack it.

[will13k7]

Codes used to be in repair manuals, but techs no longer need them as the Audi System now automatically passes the authorisation through to the relative control module. Ross Tech would need to crack it.

[MerlinS3]

The one thing my tech said that if the springs bring it lower then a certain point that the computer will not be able to calibrate and will cause a malfunction, which he thinks the H&R may bring it below that point on the factory mag ride and would cause a malfunction that would stay until OE springs put back on HMM...

[Food4Audis]

@sirsycott please find these codes for me =)

[roadrunner_oz]

The one thing my tech said that if the springs bring it lower then a certain point that the computer will not be able to calibrate and will cause a malfunction, which he thinks the H&R may bring it below that point on the factory mag ride and would cause a malfunction that would stay until OE springs put back on HMM...

Not with H&R Sports, perhaps Super Sports. The green plastic arm connecting to the level control sensor over extends with really low springs (greater than 1.2" drop), resulting in a malfunction.

[phillyquattro]

What are the odds that recalibrating the EDC will get my KW delete kit to actually start performing correctly? I'm assuming slim to none.

[roadrunner_oz]

What are the odds that recalibrating the EDC will get my KW delete kit to actually start performing correctly? I'm assuming slim to none.

Does the KW delete not work?

[jshwon]

What are the odds that recalibrating the EDC will get my KW delete kit to actually start performing correctly? I'm assuming slim to none.

philly, I don't recall but did you try bending the arms like Oreganoflow suggested? Wanting to know because I'm considering going to coils w/KW delete kit instead of the H&R springs I have sitting in my garage.

[phillyquattro]

Does the KW delete not work?

Nope. Not even a little. I get dampening errors every time I drive the car. KW even sent me a replacement kit to no avail. Will also has this problem.

philly, I don't recall but did you try bending the arms like Oreganoflow suggested? Wanting to know because I'm considering going to coils w/KW delete kit instead of the H&R springs I have sitting in my garage.

Yes, the arms were adjusted also with no luck.

[jshwon]

Nope. Not even a little. I get dampening errors every time I drive the car. KW even sent me a replacement kit to no avail. Will also has this problem.



Yes, the arms were adjusted also with no luck.

Does it not matter how low you are on the coils? It just errors out at any height lower than factory? Weird guys with H&R sports/super sports are not having this issue without the delete kit

[phillyquattro]

Does the KW delete not work?

Does it not matter how low you are on the coils? It just errors out at any height lower than factory? Weird guys with H&R sports/super sports are not having this issue without the delete kit

It seemingly doesn't matter how low you are on coils. My car is in "winter mode" at the time being, so I have a solid 2 finger gap between my tire and fender. I had my car a bit lower when I first installed the coilovers before winter. Will's car is a good deal lower than mine is.

If you just replace the springs then ride height is the only potential issue I believe, which is why you don't need the KW dampening delete kit (not that it works anyways).

[will13k7]

My car is lower than H&R super sports right now (tires tuck under the fender) and it's hard for me to trigger a ride-height code. If I push it enough it will, like 9/10ths to 11/10ths, but only on the most compressed wheel, for example: when making a right turn, then that's the front left wheel that's the most compressed.

The other silly code I get, "Valve for Damping Adjustment", can happen when just pushing it 6/10ths or hard braking.

I think these mag-ride shocks are doing something fancy KW doesn't know about when you push your car in the corners, adjusting the dampening on the fly, and KW's dumb part doesn't mimic the right response and the car throws codes. Just a guess though.

[frd_lee]

I just got my KW V3s installed and definitely getting a whole bunch of errors now. really need some help with the deletes!

[will13k7]

I just got my KW V3s installed and definitely getting a whole bunch of errors now. really need some help with the deletes!

If you have KW's delete kit, and are still getting codes, the first thing KW will tell you is to raise your car.

I think we would finally get some traction with KW if you raised your car to the KW V3's max with the KW delete kit and still got codes, then KW would have to admit their solution is not working and finally have some of their engineer's help instead of support people and product managers.

You can email their customer support here:
http://www.kwsuspensions.com/contact/customer

KW will ask you to fill out this tech sheet:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x2obx5w6qk...et%20.pdf?dl=0

Good luck!

[frd_lee]

If you have KW's delete kit, and are still getting codes, the first thing KW will tell you is to raise your car.

I think we would finally get some traction with KW if you raised your car to the KW V3's max with the KW delete kit and still got codes, then KW would have to admit their solution is not working and finally have some of their engineer's help instead of support people and product managers.

You can email their customer support here:
http://www.kwsuspensions.com/contact/customer

KW will ask you to fill out this tech sheet:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x2obx5w6qk...et%20.pdf?dl=0

Good luck!

Might have sounded weird the way I wrote it, But i have not yet gotten the delete kit. But I'm about post what my dash looks like on my build page in a second for you guys to check out.

[wfujay]

Sorry for the thread necro but did anyone ever find the code for this? Also wouldn't it make more sense to get the calibration when the springs have completely settled instead of immediately after install? For instance, I'm currently sitting in the BFI lobby getting my MSS kit installed and it takes 2k miles to fully settle. Wouldn't that be the optimal time to do the recalibration?

[a4000]

I had mine done a few weeks ago. If you want to check and make sure they adjusted the distances, just check the new values in vcds/obdeleven. Measure from center of wheel to fender arch. Convert to mm.

[PsiBlast]

I had mine done a few weeks ago. If you want to check and make sure they adjusted the distances, just check the new values in vcds/obdeleven. Measure from center of wheel to fender arch. Convert to mm.

How did the car feel afterwards?

I have MSS springs and they told me that this calibration is unnecessary.

[a4000]

How did the car feel afterwards?

I have MSS springs and they told me that this calibration is unnecessary.

Feels good, it felt a bit harsher before. It makes sense to me that the system would need to know where it's neutral or zero point is to function properly, otherwise it would always think it was compressed. The audi dealer only charged a half an hour of labor.

[jl87]

So VCDS / OBD11 / etc. can read the values, but not adjust them?

[wfujay]

Feels good, it felt a bit harsher before. It makes sense to me that the system would need to know where it's neutral or zero point is to function properly, otherwise it would always think it was compressed. The audi dealer only charged a half an hour of labor.

Wouldn't your zero point change again once the springs have fully settled? It seems ideally you would wait until the springs have fully settled instead of doing this immediately after getting them installed or am I misunderstanding?

[rex_racer]

So VCDS / OBD11 / etc. can read the values, but not adjust them?

Correct. Only an ODIS tool can adjust it.

Wouldn't your zero point change again once the springs have fully settled? It seems ideally you would wait until the springs have fully settled instead of doing this immediately after getting them installed or am I misunderstanding?

The zero point will constantly change as the springs settle in over time. It would be best to do this after the initial settling and then again as the tens of thousands of miles rack on. Not only is there spring settling, there is also rubber compression and wear that you'd have to deal with.

[a4000]

Wouldn't your zero point change again once the springs have fully settled? It seems ideally you would wait until the springs have fully settled instead of doing this immediately after getting them installed or am I misunderstanding?

I waited a few weeks.

[ahyeah]

The ODIS tool is a dealership-only tool or are their independent shops that can perform this re-adaptation?

[wfujay]

I waited a few weeks.

How much did they charge?

[a4000]

How much did they charge?

Half hour, $60.