Mechatronics repair kit is done, with a little DIY.........

[TC_S4]

After replacing the mechatronic, do you need to do some kind of transmission adaptation with VCDS?

[ahhrevenge]

Any update on this topic? How is the repair holding up?

[RPMtech147]

bro, why no pics?

C'mon OP!

[SpawnyWhippet]

I actually cannot get my mechatronic out. I have it all undone and movable but the cable connector seems to be hung up on the plastic piece that goes through the trans housing for the electronics harness. I removed a torx screw holding that connector tube to the outside but still cannot remove the mech. I watched about 10 videos and nobody mentions this harness or how to deal with it. Any tips?

[Ai_barber_guy]

Ok, first off as many of you know I had the failing Mechatronics (Gearbox Malfunction, You may continue to drive at a limited use) issue with my car.
It just turned 35k miles, and because of the mods on my car it couldn't be fixed under warranty.
I had a bunch of people reply to my other threads I started giving me great advise.
So I ordered the ECS Tuning Mechatronics Repair kit. It is like $380 or so.
A few people were saying it was a fairly big job. It really isn't a bad job at all.
I think that most people with some mechanical ability could do this repair themelves and save a ton of money compaired to having a dealer do the work.
I wrote out a little Do It Yourself below to help people decide if this option is good for them.
I just had my 35k mile service done a couple weeks ago, so I drained the new DSG fluid into 2 clean gallon jugs so I could re-use and save money.
I did have to run to the Audi dealer to buy one more quart to get the level just right.
It was about a 3 hour repair, and pretty straight forward in my opinion, for sure most people could do this repair themselves.
So a under $600 dollar option even buying all new DSG fluid for the people that want to save the money and do the repair themselves.
So far the car is driving great, shifting great, seems even smoother with no issues.

Thanks agin to this forum and the forum members on here, you guys are great
On to the do it Yourself.......
Bill



No instructions came with the kit. ITS real easy though in my opinion.
Her is a quick run down.
If you have a lift it would be easier, but could be done on jack stands if you had to.
1. Lift car up.
2. Take plastic splash pan down
3. Remove the x brace, or what ever its called. There is a bolt on the top of it that holds a line, so make sure to remove that.
4. Drain fluid from pan, drain plug in the bottom of pan, fill plug on the side of the transmission on drivers side.
5. Remove the transmission pan bolts, set a side.
6. Unbolt the lines going into the side of the transmission, pry out gently, they are o-ringed, I put a spacer in between the lines and transmission to keep them out far enough to pull down the Mechatronics unit.
6. Pull out the filter, and unplug the harness.
7.. Remove only the 6 bolts that hold up the Mechatronics unit, they are the six smaller head bolts.
8. Pull down on the Mechatronics unit and set it on a clean work area. I used the box that the repair kit came in as it is messy work.
9. Unplug the 2 electric connections and un screw the bolts that hold the 2 plastic pieces that you are replacing. Remove these now.
10. Replace the green seals that you see now and the kit does come with new ones.
11. Put on the new 2 plastic units and push down firmly to seat them. Put the new screws in that the kit does come with and tighten. DON'T forget to plug both of these back in now.
12.there is 4 hooks on the Mechatronics unit, must be solenoids I guess so when you put this unit back up now make sure all 4 hook into the ones inside the transmission, my first attempt I only hooked three so I had to pull it back down and try again. Second time worked, got all 4.
13. Put the 6 bolts you took out back in, push the lines back in and make sure they seat, put filter back in, plug back in the electrical connection, then put the pan back on. Your now ready to put everything back together.
refill the fluid till it starts to come out the fill hole.
Start car, go through the gears with foot on brake. Get the transmission temp between 40 to 50 degrees c and check the fill hole and see if the level is still up, if not put some more in and finish up putting everything you took off back on.
Now your ready for a test drive. JOB WELL DONE IF SHE SHIFTS GREAT..
Bill

Hey Bill, I know this thread is old, maybe your still on here? Was these all the exact steps? Anything missing? Cars in park I'd imagine. Any reprigraming? Here we are in 2022.

[WurstS4]

Was wondering for anyone who did this, did you reuse any gaskets or filters?

I just had the DSG service done maybe 8500 miles ago. I'm going to use all new fluid, new bolts, and almost certainly new gaskets, but I'm wondering if I can reuse the metal pan gasket and the internal filter. For OEM, those are like $150ish on their own.

[WurstS4]

Was wondering for anyone who did this, did you reuse any gaskets or filters?

I just had the DSG service done maybe 8500 miles ago. I'm going to use all new fluid, new bolts, and almost certainly new gaskets, but I'm wondering if I can reuse the metal pan gasket and the internal filter. For OEM, those are like $150ish on their own.

Also, for reference, the mechanic who did the service for me told me the DSG fluid and filters looked almost brand new and he thought the DSG service had been done recently on the car. It had about 61,500 on it when he did it and the original was done at about 36k.

[Corydms7]

I was told that you need to make sure all 4 forks are in the “neutral” position before installing mech unit. I was also told you must set the gear valves using a vernier caliper to a certain mm spec. Can anyone confirm this? Do I have to spec the valves to the mm specification on my old unit or only if you’re replacing your old unit with an entirely new one?

[S4'ed]

Yes, all 4 shift forks (part of the transmission) need to be in the center ("neutral") position before the Mechatronic is reinstalled. The Mechatronic gear valves (actually the gear servos) must also be in the center neutral position (as set by the 15mm measurement) so that the servo finger fits into the corresponding hole of each of the four shift forks, when the Mechatronic is installed. This alignment must be correct, when reinstalling either the original Mechatronic, or installing a new Mechatronic unit. If the alignment is not correct, then the Mechatronic unit will not seat all the way up into the transmission housing.

[WurstS4]

Yes it did:( luckily i found a friend who had a replacement module.


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So you had to replace the entire mechatronics unit?

Or just the connector and ribbon cord?

Mine is torn as well, but horizontally and not all the way through and it's losing communication with the module.

[Thomas@TAI-VW]

Best way to do this is purchase the kit that comes with the ribbons and 3 solenoids. They have Chinese ones on ebay with "rebuilt" solenoids and supposedly aftermarket ribbons,but I searched and found a set out of Europe for $550.00,and it was OEM. I had a B8 with slipping reverse and 1-2 was "slippy". I was certain it was the clutch packs, but a little investigation into the stored fault for "clutch 2 pressure too high" led me to replace the parts I mentioned. I did the job yesterday,it took me 3 hours and I was being very careful.and it fixed the problem completely. Long story short...if you don't have faults for gear sensors or clutch slippage,then the full rebuild kit is the way to go. Good luck!

[WurstS4]

Best way to do this is purchase the kit that comes with the ribbons and 3 solenoids. They have Chinese ones on ebay with "rebuilt" solenoids and supposedly aftermarket ribbons,but I searched and found a set out of Europe for $550.00,and it was OEM. I had a B8 with slipping reverse and 1-2 was "slippy". I was certain it was the clutch packs, but a little investigation into the stored fault for "clutch 2 pressure too high" led me to replace the parts I mentioned. I did the job yesterday,it took me 3 hours and I was being very careful.and it fixed the problem completely. Long story short...if you don't have faults for gear sensors or clutch slippage,then the full rebuild kit is the way to go. Good luck!

The ribbon connector is soldered into the transmission control module. Mine was ripped all the way through horizontally in 2 spots when reinstalled.

I applied my mechanic with the legit one from OEMVWShop.com included solenoids.

Mechanic and myself are having a lot of trouble locating a transmission control module with the exact same part number. All on Ebay have a different letter at the end. Seem to have it on Alibaba, but all seem to be Chinese aftermarket, might have to resort to that. Worried about recoding issues though, or faulty part.

[S4'ed]

Thomas@TAI-VW:
Specifically what kit "with the ribbons and 3 solenoids" did you buy to fix your "clutch 2 pressure too high" problem?
Can you post a link to the Ebay, or other ones you found?

[Shane Horning]

I actually cannot get my mechatronic out. I have it all undone and movable but the cable connector seems to be hung up on the plastic piece that goes through the trans housing for the electronics harness. I removed a torx screw holding that connector tube to the outside but still cannot remove the mech. I watched about 10 videos and nobody mentions this harness or how to deal with it. Any tips?

You need to remove the t30 holding that plastic piece where the tcu harness attaches and turn it counterclockwise to remove the black plastic piece then mech unit drops down

[HVSU_K5]

I saw a video of installing a NEW mechatronic unit... that video stated needing to have dealer program the unit after install, however this post doesnt mention that.... does this mean programming ia required ONLY if installing new mechantronic and NOT if repairing an existing unit?

Also, my Q7 in an 8 speed. Is anyone aware of a mechatronic repair kit for a 2016-2019 Q7 Quattro?

[Nillious]

I believe the 8 speed is a standad torque converter transmission. I think it will have a standard valve body.