Oil filter housing torque specs

[evilpulse8]

Hi there, I've been having trouble finding the torque specs for the 4 bolts holding the oil filter housing for my 2.0t. I have a leak coming from the housing and block so I'm replacing it with a new unit along with the new seal to the oil cooler to do it right the first time.

It's always been dealer serviced so I assume they intentionally over torque the filter cap to stress the gasket to get it to fail. I was aware of the leak for some time but it was just a soak on the bottom but after a trip from LA to Vegas to the SEMA convention it started to drip about a spoonfull onto the floor everyday now.

[johnruan]

15nm=11 ft lb

[BenMTL]

Having this exact problem myself I found out today...I thought it was my oil filter housing (cracked), but actually the source of the leak appears to be above it, from that silver housing box which I assume to be the oil cooler? Oil is slowing coming down from underneath it, sliding down the side of my engine block and on the inside side of my oil filter housing...

Evil, what parts do we need to fix this? Part # for oil cooler seal? Is that the only seal/gasket we need to replace? For now, I'm only getting oil moisture running down that side of my engine block and a few drops accumulating down at the bottom but I am sure it will become a bigger problem over time

[aluthman]

There is a gasket between the filter adapter and the engine block and another between the filter adapter and the oil cooler. You should replace both if you're taking it apart. They are pretty cheap. I had a leak from here to the tune of 1 quart a week.

[evilpulse8]

Oil filter housing gasket:
06F115441

Oil cooler seal:
06D117070

[evilpulse8]

And in case the oil filter assembly is cracked Mfg Part #
06F115397J

[evilpulse8]

Having this exact problem myself I found out today...I thought it was my oil filter housing (cracked), but actually the source of the leak appears to be above it, from that silver housing box which I assume to be the oil cooler? Oil is slowing coming down from underneath it, sliding down the side of my engine block and on the inside side of my oil filter housing...

Evil, what parts do we need to fix this? Part # for oil cooler seal? Is that the only seal/gasket we need to replace? For now, I'm only getting oil moisture running down that side of my engine block and a few drops accumulating down at the bottom but I am sure it will become a bigger problem over time

I have had the problem for a few months, the bottom was soaked with oil but never reached the floor, but after my trip from LA to vegas, I went WOT a lot of times and yeah something went wrong lol I'm going to replace the oil pressure sensor as well, it's not expensive and it could be a probable cause of the leak.

[BenMTL]

Oil filter housing gasket:
06F115441

Oil cooler seal:
06D117070

Thanks! It has to be one of those and they are in the same area so...Ordered both from GAP for like $30 with shipping...

The only problem is, it seems like you have to remove a bunch of things to be able to replace them Lots of work (solid 2-3 hours?) and you have to drain out your oil first...So this will have to wait until my next oil change after the winter, in the spring.

Is this a common leak area on our cars? I ask because I don't remember it being mentioned on this forum...

[iamshayan]

I have the entire air oil separator / filter housing/ cooler assembly for sale if anyone is interested pm me.

you might have to remove your coolant lines from the thermostat to the back of the head too if i remember correctly.

So not only do you have to drop oil but you have to drop your coolant at the same time.

Also be careful as some of these coolant lines don't come apart. they are literally glued underneath the clamp.

[evilpulse8]

I have the entire air oil separator / filter housing/ cooler assembly for sale if anyone is interested pm me.

you might have to remove your coolant lines from the thermostat to the back of the head too if i remember correctly.

So not only do you have to drop oil but you have to drop your coolant at the same time.

Also be careful as some of these coolant lines don't come apart. they are literally glued underneath the clamp.

Yeah I found that out myself, that one hose wouldn't come loose and I had to break the glue. Only took one out.

The PCV breather hose to the filter housing shattered on me in the process. Glad it broke on me now then on it's own

[aluthman]

I found that glued hose the hard way also.

[Stretch625]

Then there should be 3 different torque settings? The canister, the oil housing to block, and the oil cooler?

[Stretch625]

For the canister, or all 3 pieces ?

[Jayz691]

For the canister, or all 3 pieces ?

I believe that (15nm) was for the 4 bolts holding the filter housing to block. Oil cooler bolts are also 15nm.Screenshot_20211207-124010.jpg

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[esandes]

What's the tq spec for the oil filter can when doing oil changes?

[Theiceman]

There are two marks you line up when tightening it and done.

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[Jayz691]

I just give it an ugga. But, y'all can google the answers, same as i (and others) do..

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[Jayz691]

But my 1 min google search finds its 25nm...Screenshot_20211208-211743.jpg

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[Theiceman]

Align these. Mark housing and filter cartridgeScreenshot_20211208-212006_Chrome.jpg

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[esandes]

I just give it an ugga. But, y'all can google the answers, same as i (and others) do..

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An ugga with the penis hand or non-penis hand?

[Jeevan]

But my 1 min google search finds its 25nm...Screenshot_20211208-211743.jpg

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i know it says 25nm but its not necessarily correct. it all depends on the brand of oil filters you use and the orings that come with it.

Like iceman said, we just need to align the marks. I have the newest version of genuine oil filter housing which i installed this summer(original one failed after 15 years of use). My marks lignup with just hand tightening. I use Hengst oil filters. In the last 3 oil changes, i managed to align them that way just with my hands and removal didnt need any socket or wrench. it never leaked too.

[blakefife]

I just give it an ugga. But, y'all can google the answers, same as i (and others) do..

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Yes, I can confirm... one ugga dugga is just right.

I did an oil change a few weeks ago in the cold and the can kept leaking tightened by hand so I put the 36mm socket on the end and used the wrench to tighten slowly and carefully. It didnt take much more to seal up, maybe 1/8th of a turn.


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[blakefife]

An ugga with the penis hand or non-penis hand?

and that would be with the penis-hand.


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[Jayz691]

Well, its not easy to see up in there. So I just tighten it slightly, never had an issue. I'll have to look where it winds up next time. New genuine filter housing, but old filter cover.

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[Jeevan]

Well, its not easy to see up in there. So I just tighten it slightly, never had an issue. I'll have to look where it winds up next time. New one filter housing, but old filter cover.

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just need to bend a little more :P

[Theiceman]

Line up the marks on the housing with the marks on the filter canister.
..done.
I backed this one off a tiny bit so I could get a good pic. signal-2021-12-19-17-55-22-128.jpg

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[esandes]

Line up the marks on the housing with the marks on the filter canister.
..done.
I backed this one off a tiny bit so I could get a good pic. signal-2021-12-19-17-55-22-128.jpg

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That's awesome. I just did this and it's basically a hand tighten. No need for torquing to a spec.

[Theiceman]

That's awesome. I just did this and it's basically a hand tighten. No need for torquing to a spec.

yup exactly .... until you have a grease monkey change your oil and reef it way passed the mark , then its a friggen nightmare to undo.