C7 A6 Bose system Speakers sizes?

[quad_drive]

Anyone know what are the speaker sizes that came with Bose system for C7 A6. I am planning on replacing them, just want to know the sizes to order them before taking a part the door panels and stuff.
I did some investigating, I think the front doors has 5.25" driver, tweeter and 3.5" driver. Rear has a 5.25"? driver and tweeter. The rear shelf has a pair of 4.0 drivers and a 8"?subwoofer

Thanks.

[IceyTys]

Anyone know what are the speaker sizes that came with Bose system for C7 A6. I am planning on replacing them, just want to know the sizes to order them before taking a part the door panels and stuff.
I did some investigating, I think the front doors has 5.25" driver, tweeter and 3.5" driver. Rear has a 5.25"? driver and tweeter. The rear shelf has a pair of 4.0 drivers and a 8"?subwoofer

Thanks.

Anyone, have a chart that’s shows the Bose speaker sizes? In particular Anyone know if a 6.5” driver would fit in the front doors without any mods?

[OlyS6]

I don’t have a chart, but I can confirm that a 6.5” woofer will fit in the front door panels with minimal modification. You can undo the speaker housing for the stock woofer (you’ll be able to gently pry it off the housing), and you can then easily screw 6.5” speaker into it- same holds true for the rear door woofers. The front tweeter housing are standard, and require zero modification to put better teeeters in. The only area (besides subwoofer) that needs any real modification for new speakers are the rear door tweeters- the OEMs are very small and very shallow compared to most aftermarket ones. I had to do a fair bit of dremeling of the inner rear door panel to fit my tweeters in.


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[Maldew]

I don’t have a chart, but I can confirm that a 6.5” woofer will fit in the front door panels with minimal modification. You can undo the speaker housing for the stock woofer (you’ll be able to gently pry it off the housing), and you can then easily screw 6.5” speaker into it- same holds true for the rear door woofers. The front tweeter housing are standard, and require zero modification to put better teeeters in. The only area (besides subwoofer) that needs any real modification for new speakers are the rear door tweeters- the OEMs are very small and very shallow compared to most aftermarket ones. I had to do a fair bit of dremeling of the inner rear door panel to fit my tweeters in.


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Did you power the upgraded speakers off the stock amp? What ohm size were the speakers?


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[bpd]

Try Crutchfield and put in your year of car and then pick Bose system. Don't know if all C7 has same speakers sizes before/after facelift.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-WjDElA...rselector.aspx

[burlgoat53]

Hi is this the same for the A7 bose setup ?? I'm in need a lower front door replacment and not paying $350 for a new one

[OlyS6]

Hi is this the same for the A7 bose setup ?? I'm in need a lower front door replacment and not paying $350 for a new one

It should be very close, but I can't completely confirm. You can easily take a nylon pry tool to pop of the grill and take measurements. Even if you don't get the exact diameter speakers, it isn't hard to dremel or use a heat gun to modify the speaker bays in the doors.

One word of caution is that these speakers are all part of a reasonably well coordinated/tuned system of 3 way component speakers on each side up front. Replacing a single pair of speakers, whether midrange, woofers, or tweeters, and having the factory amp drive them, MIGHT not have the desired effect, depending on what you buy.

You can easily find better speakers than the stock bose speakers at reasonable prices, but it would be important to ensure the wattage and resistance are the same for the ones you are replacing, to ensure that the factory amp is properly powered for whichever channel of speakers you're replacing.

It is almost easier (but more expensive) to replace everything with 2 full pairs of 3-way component speakers, and use an aftermarket 3 or 4 channel amp to power them.

Crutchfield.com is a good online source to help you try to find replacement speakers for your car.

[burlgoat53]

Thanks for the update...i just want a simple speaker replacement as I'm not a big audio guy at all...that Bose enclosure is a PITA to get a replacement for lol...it states it's a 4.5 inch woofer but a 4.5 aftermarket speaker will not fit ...

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[OlyS6]

No need for a new enclosure. You can pull out the enclosure and modify it with either a dremel or heat gun. You'll want to do this with almost any speaker you buy, because all of the Bose speakers are shitty thin wafers that have no depth to them, hence the shallow enclosures.

[burlgoat53]

sorry I meant bose speaker not the enclosure

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[SPONGE]

Did you guys replace it with a regular two way speaker or a component midrange driver? The component costs more and I wont be using the tweeters.

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[Marc R]

Can anyone shine a light on swapping the BOSE amp for a B&O amp? i guess it's not a straight forward swap but it is possible without major modifications?

I presume the pin layout will be different..

[subterFUSE]

Anyone know what are the speaker sizes that came with Bose system for C7 A6. I am planning on replacing them, just want to know the sizes to order them before taking a part the door panels and stuff.
I did some investigating, I think the front doors has 5.25" driver, tweeter and 3.5" driver. Rear has a 5.25"? driver and tweeter. The rear shelf has a pair of 4.0 drivers and a 8"?subwoofer

Thanks.

The Bose midbass speaker is about 3 or 4 inches.

The midrange is about 2.5 or 3 inches, and it is surface mounted to the door. There is no hole in the door to mount a deeper midrange, and the acoustics of the Bose midrange are horrible. The tweeter in the dash is probably a 1/2 or 1 inch tweeter.



Now, as for what is possible for replacements......


If you remove the Bose midbass ported enclosure from the door, you can easily fit an 8 inch or even a 10 inch midbass driver with a depth of about 4 inches. You will need to have custom fabrication done to allow this, however.
The Bose midbass enclosure leaves a huge hole in the door which need to be sealed off.

Forget about using the factory midrange location in the door. It's not possible without cutting the door which is a really bad idea.
You are better off building custom A pillar pods for a midrange and tweeter, or you could simply do a 2 -way speaker set with a tweeter on the dash and a midbass in the lower door where the factory midbass was.


DO NOT..... I repeat. DO NOT attempt to modify the Bose midbass enclosure for a larger speaker. That enclosure is specifically designed for the 4 inch Bose speaker, and larger speaker will not work.
Just remove the Bose enclosure and save it for when you sell the car.



Forget about the rear speakers. Stereo is supposed to be 2 channels, and in front of you to simulate a live performance. Rear speakers detract from this.

[subterFUSE]

Can anyone shine a light on swapping the BOSE amp for a B&O amp? i guess it's not a straight forward swap but it is possible without major modifications?

I presume the pin layout will be different..

Not a good idea, and probably not even possible.


Just install a good aftermarket system for much better performance.

[subterFUSE]

Anyone, have a chart that’s shows the Bose speaker sizes? In particular Anyone know if a 6.5” driver would fit in the front doors without any mods?

You can fit an 8 inch or 10 inch midbass in the door quite easily, but it will require some custom fabrication. You must remove the Bose enclosure, and then build a custom baffle to seal the hole that if left when you remove that enclosure.

Then you can cut whatever size hole you want for a midbass driver, as long as the driver is not deeper than about 4 inches.

[subterFUSE]

This is what the Bose enclosure looks like when you remove it.








When you remove the Bose midbass enclosure, it leaves a huge hole in the door, which you can see here.
You need to seal that hole in order to install a new speaker and have it perform well.






In my car, we used some ABS plastic and a heat gun to cut and mold a new plastic baffle that seals off that hole in the door, and then we installed an 8 inch midbass driver with ease.
The first picture also shows you the worthless Bose midrange speaker.




This picture shows a closeup of the 8 inch midbass, and it also shows you that the midrange speaker has been removed and there is no hole in the door behind it.
This is a HUUGE no-no for acoustics. The front of the speaker and the back of the speaker are never supposed to be heard together.
This pathetic Bose midrange is mounted to the surface of the door and the rear sound wave from the speaker reflects off the metal and comes right back into the car.
Terrible acoustic design.





Here is the 8 inch midbass with the door card back in place.







And with the Bose grill in place, you would never know there was an 8 inch midbass in there.....








For midrange and tweeter speakers, it will be much better to install them on the dash, like I have done here.

IMG_6346.jpg

[Marc R]

excellent info! tnx

[EdDantes]

This is what the Bose enclosure looks like when you remove it.








When you remove the Bose midbass enclosure, it leaves a huge hole in the door, which you can see here.
You need to seal that hole in order to install a new speaker and have it perform well.






In my car, we used some ABS plastic and a heat gun to cut and mold a new plastic baffle that seals off that hole in the door, and then we installed an 8 inch midbass driver with ease.
The first picture also shows you the worthless Bose midrange speaker.




This picture shows a closeup of the 8 inch midbass, and it also shows you that the midrange speaker has been removed and there is no hole in the door behind it.
This is a HUUGE no-no for acoustics. The front of the speaker and the back of the speaker are never supposed to be heard together.
This pathetic Bose midrange is mounted to the surface of the door and the rear sound wave from the speaker reflects off the metal and comes right back into the car.
Terrible acoustic design.





Here is the 8 inch midbass with the door card back in place.







And with the Bose grill in place, you would never know there was an 8 inch midbass in there.....








For midrange and tweeter speakers, it will be much better to install them on the dash, like I have done here.

IMG_6346.jpg

Great info! Can you recommend some specific replacement speakers and amp for someone on a lower budget? I like mid bass and a warmer sound. Not a fan of the super bright so-called detailed sound as I find it fatiguing.

Also, on your factory nav screen what do you have running on there? I don't recognize that blue and what program would be going with that?

[subterFUSE]

To keep the budget down, I would do a 2-way component speaker set up front, with a midbass in the door and a tweeter on the dash. This will keep your installation more simplified compared to a 3-way component set like I use.
You'll need a professional installer to fabricate a baffle to close up the hole in the door from where the Bose enclosure goes. Save the Bose enclosure for when you sell the car.

Sound dampening will be needed in the doors, so expect to pay for materials and labor for that, too.

For a simple subwoofer, a sealed box in the trunk will work fine and will cut down on the custom fabrication which can easily be $100 per hour, depending on the shop.




Admittedly, all of my personal experience has been with very high-end gear. I just don't have any experience with anything except top shelf gear, so I can't make the best referrals on lower budget brands.

A lot of guys I know who build sound quality systems on budgets will often purchase raw drivers from companies like ScanSpeak.
When you buy a name brand car speaker, a lot of the cost is in the branding. The installation and tuning account for 90% of how good a system will sound.
Brand of speakers is much less critical than tuning. It's only when we start getting to the really nit-picky level of quality where the equipment begins to matter more.

You did mention preferring a warmer sound, so one thing I will suggest is that you select a component speaker set with a soft dome tweeter. A metallic tweeter will tend to sound brighter.
But the truth is that brightness is more of a factor with tuning. If you have a DSP in your system, you will have EQ controls to help tune it a lot better.


The app running on my screen is from an Audison Bit Play HD, which is a media player device. It has an SSD drive that will playback media files up to 24/96 resolution and outputs an optical digital connection directly to my DSP.
The video output displays on my MMI screen, but the audio bypasses the car's electronics completely.

[OlyS6]

Subterfuse raises some good points-

No need to have a completely custom made baffle in the front doors though- it turns out an Audi OEM part is a perfect baffle made to fit that exact hole to replace the crappy enclosure. Then you’d only need a custom ring to mount your aftermarket midbass woofer of choice.
I would follow his suggestion of using 2 part speakers. An excellent choice would be Focal KX2 woofer and tweeter combination. Check it out on crutchfield.com


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[Southern A6]

"it turns out an Audi OEM part is a perfect baffle"......

What part are you referring to?

[xanmato]

He means the OEM baffles that come with the standard stereo system.

4G0837103
4G0837104

[Southern A6]

Thank you for the response. Those might come in handy.

[A6mrc]

He means the OEM baffles that come with the standard stereo system.

4G0837103
4G0837104

Would these baffles fit the saloon a6 c7

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[A6mrc]

Subterfuse raises some good points-

No need to have a completely custom made baffle in the front doors though- it turns out an Audi OEM part is a perfect baffle made to fit that exact hole to replace the crappy enclosure. Then you’d only need a custom ring to mount your aftermarket midbass woofer of choice.
I would follow his suggestion of using 2 part speakers. An excellent choice would be Focal KX2 woofer and tweeter combination. Check it out on crutchfield.com


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Forgot to add, & info on the custom ring type.
Really appreciate the info.

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[OlyS6]

Forgot to add, & info on the custom ring type.
Really appreciate the info.

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You can have any good car audio shop take those OEM baffles made of ABS, and then fabricate ABS rings to mount your soeaker of choice. The rings need to be custom measured and made to accomodate mounting your speaker of choice, as well as mounting the ring itself to the baffle.


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[wotzupvan]

Hi, I've read through this forum and one point that rarely gets discussed is the Bose subwoofer in the rear parcel shelf for the sedan and spare wheel well for the Avant. I have the 2016 A6 black edition and looking to swap out the subwoofer. I'm not sure if this is an 8" or 10". It is also free to air so any suggestions on replacements would be great.

[lauretiu]

This is what the Bose enclosure looks like when you remove it.








When you remove the Bose midbass enclosure, it leaves a huge hole in the door, which you can see here.
You need to seal that hole in order to install a new speaker and have it perform well.






In my car, we used some ABS plastic and a heat gun to cut and mold a new plastic baffle that seals off that hole in the door, and then we installed an 8 inch midbass driver with ease.
The first picture also shows you the worthless Bose midrange speaker.




This picture shows a closeup of the 8 inch midbass, and it also shows you that the midrange speaker has been removed and there is no hole in the door behind it.
This is a HUUGE no-no for acoustics. The front of the speaker and the back of the speaker are never supposed to be heard together.
This pathetic Bose midrange is mounted to the surface of the door and the rear sound wave from the speaker reflects off the metal and comes right back into the car.
Terrible acoustic design.





Here is the 8 inch midbass with the door card back in place.







And with the Bose grill in place, you would never know there was an 8 inch midbass in there.....








For midrange and tweeter speakers, it will be much better to install them on the dash, like I have done here.

IMG_6346.jpg

Hey man. Quick question for you: what year is your a6 c7 ? I have a a6 c7 12 and I somehow(I guess I love deep base songs too much) blew up my passenger side speaker. Haven't pried opened my door panel yet to check which one is gone but I only get a chips plastic bag/wrap noise from the speaker and i need to replace it. I was thinking about doing something similar to you and going with "JL AUDIO C5-525cw Car 5-1/4" Component Midwoofer Speak" (I have Bose originally too....) my question is probably silly and novice grade but should I get the "JL Audio C5-525-XO 2-Way Car Audio Crossover for C5-525cw C5-075ct Single" or should I just plug it straight to my Bose system already in place. Thank you in advance

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[Joe'sS6]

Hey man. Quick question for you: what year is your a6 c7 ? I have a a6 c7 12 and I somehow(I guess I love deep base songs too much) blew up my passenger side speaker. Haven't pried opened my door panel yet to check which one is gone but I only get a chips plastic bag/wrap noise from the speaker and i need to replace it. I was thinking about doing something similar to you and going with "JL AUDIO C5-525cw Car 5-1/4" Component Midwoofer Speak" (I have Bose originally too....) my question is probably silly and novice grade but should I get the "JL Audio C5-525-XO 2-Way Car Audio Crossover for C5-525cw C5-075ct Single" or should I just plug it straight to my Bose system already in place. Thank you in advance

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The Bose system most likely has different frequencies than those used by JL audio, if so is the case, it would not sound good.

I would either just replace the speakers if damaged, or if you really want a good sound system, you need to get a full audio system upgrade, get rid of the Bose amp and all speakers.


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[munkittrick]

I realize that this thread has all but dried up, but do you have any further photos of your dash pods? I'm in the process of trying to get mine dialed in and I like the placement of your drivers more than mine at the moment. Any images of that set-up would be really appreciated!

[bx3m]

Hey guys, so, let's revive the dead :D
Going from a standard Bose speaker replacement, I got to replace the lower front speakers with Alpine S50, rear speakers with Alpine S40, and I still got the S40s for the front midrange to replace. Now, the sound quality is definitely improved, but there is a lot of room for improvment. Specifically, I want to ask you all if replacing the enclosure with the sandard baffle is absolutely necessary? Also, I want to use HERTZ DIECI DT 24.3 for the rear and center sides tweeters - any thoughts? Also want to replace the center dash speaker with Alpine S40. Another important aspect is that I am now using the WAKAA Carplay unit, which has positively influenced the sound quality, but there is still to be fiddled with the EQ. So, for now it's work in progress, looking forward to any ideas to make the best of it :)
Also, any apps for iOS to help me with the sound tuning?