Replacing OEM battery S4 B8

[Moose201]

Well, that was an ordeal. Battery swap was a breeze until I got to the coding. I followed the video tutorial and it was easy enough but the controller kept rejecting the serial number of the battery. I used the correct number of digits but it would only accept the S# when I fudged it by substituting letters for numbers at the very end of the sequence.

[jackal15]

Hi folks,
STF but couldn't find a definitive answer to this question for B8.5s. I'm getting a low battery warning for my 2013 with original OEM battery (Moll brand - 8KO 915 105 F). Could anyone confirm that the recommended Duralast battery below will work in my car? I've seen confirmations in this thread that it works in 2012 and older but want to make sure there wasnt a change to 2013. It's about $80 cheaper than I've been quoted by Audi and by an indy mechanic. Thanks!

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...19459_322915_0

[jygesq]

Hi folks,
STF but couldn't find a definitive answer to this question for B8.5s. I'm getting a low battery warning for my 2013 with original OEM battery (Moll brand - 8KO 915 105 F). Could anyone confirm that the recommended Duralast battery below will work in my car? I've seen confirmations in this thread that it works in 2012 and older but want to make sure there wasnt a change to 2013. It's about $80 cheaper than I've been quoted by Audi and by an indy mechanic. Thanks!

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...19459_322915_0

you do not need AGM battery. auto zone 95r/h9 will work it is cheaper see http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-battery-S4-B8 post #13

[Vogz]

I just replaced mine 1.5 weeks ago with the AutoCraft 95R/H9 (gold) recommended in this thread. It does have a BEM code on it, but I did not do any re-coding and have not experienced any issues.

I'm not clear on what this power saving mode is that has been mentioned or its impact on the vehicle. I'm not following how the vehicle would be "stuck" in this mode if the battery were replaced and providing correct power. I could see it not going into power saving mode in the future because of incorrect coding.

Regarding battery life: I think it's very situational, but I start considering replacement around the 4.5 - 5 year mark assuming the battery is showing proper health. Mostly because I live in a cold climate. I went 6 years on the battery in my B7 S4 and then it gave up on me on a very cold winter day. It showed signs of needing replacement long before, but I rolled the dice.

I'll be doing a battery replacement soon as a preventative measure on my 2011. Car will be 6 years old in May. It hasn't shown any signs of needing replacement though the dealer told me that it failed their test 15 months ago during my 45K (and last) AudiCare service, lol

It's a common misconception that cold climates kill car batteries. Heat is actually far more detrimental to a lead acid battery. As you said it had been showing signs of needing replacement well before it finally couldn't put out the amps required to start the car. The cold just lowers the amperage that the battery will put out temporarily until the battery warms up again.

[jackal15]

you do not need AGM battery. auto zone 95r/h9 will work it is cheaper see http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-battery-S4-B8 post #13

Thanks. Looked around and noticed that I can get the Autocraft AGM for $20 more after my discount. See any reason this one won't work?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/a...agm/10210828-P

[jygesq]

i do not know, it is possible AGM charges differently, but why bother , if car did not come with AGM, why do you need it?

[jackal15]

i do not know, it is possible AGM charges differently, but why bother , if car did not come with AGM, why do you need it?

Thanks. I guess my confusion comes from some people saying our cars came with AGM. I'll go with the autocraft non-AGM

[Crucible35]

Lots of misinterpretation of batteries here. It's very much a "get what you pay for" scenario. Should you get an AGM battery..... yes. AGM batteries are not nearly as susceptible to vibration as a non-AGM battery. Should the battery be coded. Yes. As Militant Grunt mentioned above, if you don't re-code the car to the new battery, the power management system in the car won't recognize the new battery and will improperly manage the battery voltage when that battery is reaching end of life which will come much more prematurely.
Will they work if you choose a non-AGM and don't code them?..... absolutely. However, you won't likely get the longevity out of the new battery and will pay more in replacements.
The company that I work for specifically deals in AGM batteries (non-car related applications) and the software we develop to manage the AGM battery (similar in our cars) has been designed to get the longest life out of the consumable.
So the question comes down to whether you want to get 2 years out of that new battery or 5.

[Jester2893]

Lots of misinterpretation of batteries here. It's very much a "get what you pay for" scenario. Should you get an AGM battery..... yes. AGM batteries are not nearly as susceptible to vibration as a non-AGM battery. Should the battery be coded. Yes. As Militant Grunt mentioned above, if you don't re-code the car to the new battery, the power management system in the car won't recognize the new battery and will improperly manage the battery voltage when that battery is reaching end of life which will come much more prematurely.
Will they work if you choose a non-AGM and don't code them?..... absolutely. However, you won't likely get the longevity out of the new battery and will pay more in replacements.
The company that I work for specifically deals in AGM batteries (non-car related applications) and the software we develop to manage the AGM battery (similar in our cars) has been designed to get the longest life out of the consumable.
So the question comes down to whether you want to get 2 years out of that new battery or 5.

Since you seem to know, do you happen to have a suggestion on a replacement battery for our cars that lasts and can handle not being driven during the winters and attached to a simple trickle charged that is not absurdly expensive?

[EHesh14]

Since you seem to know, do you happen to have a suggestion on a replacement battery for our cars that lasts and can handle not being driven during the winters and attached to a simple trickle charged that is not absurdly expensive?

Just grab a AutoCraft Gold battery from any advanced auto store. They are Varta Manufactured and even have the Audi/VW stamp on them & they come with a BEM code for a simple recode. I also grabbed a battery tender/charger from Napa and with that, still half the price of going to the dealership for a battery. I sent for the Pro Logic tender that will excercise the battery for you when charging is complete.

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/auto...920%7CL2*15000

http://www.cloreautomotive.com/category.php?id=91

[Jester2893]

Just grab a AutoCraft Gold battery from any advanced auto store. They are Varta Manufactured and even have the Audi/VW stamp on them & they come with a BEM code for a simple recode. I also grabbed a battery tender/charger from Napa and with that, still half the price of going to the dealership for a battery. I sent for the Pro Logic tender that will excercise the battery for you when charging is complete.

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/auto...920%7CL2*15000

http://www.cloreautomotive.com/category.php?id=91

I appreciate the help and especially with the current promo the advanced is a no brainer! Ill also looking those tenders as mine is currently very dated and wasn't very expensive so that could have been part of premature battery failure.
Thanks again!

[s14roller]

Just wondering, if you have an old battery that is starting to go, could you not trickle charge it to 100%, then swap out for a new battery? I'd assume the "battery level" stored by the car would think it's going from a full battery to another full battery and use the same battery software for it.

[Whistle]

S14roller- Good question, but it doesn't work like that.

Crucible35 could go into more detail than I on the control algorithms, but when you code the battery in, you are telling the car it has a new battery on that date and it essentially timestamps it. Over time the car manages the charging strategy based on a number of inputs. As your battery ages it's capacity decreases, and your car adjusts the charging algorithms.

Many modern cars don't just blindly charge your battery until it's at 100% SOC (state of charge) now. Most of them keep the alternator OFF until the battery reaches a certain threshold, at which point the alternator kicks in and begins charging your battery.

Why?

Gas mileage.

In the past cars ran off the alternator essentially, with the battery in the loop as a buffer.

More and more now, cars run off the battery and keep the alternator off to keep parasitic loss to a minimum. Same thing with electric power steering. Get rid of parasitic hydraulic pump, increase gas mileage, work battery harder.

So now you are driving a car full of tech and electronics and your battery is being used much more than they ever were in the past.

Here's my advice:

If you're going to sell your car soon, you can get by without coding your new battery, and you can put in a plain old flooded battery.

If you're going to keep your car for a while or if you just like better performance, put in an AGM battery. They're generally worth the extra money.

With batteries, as with many things, you get what you pay for.

AGM Benefits:
MUCH longer life
Better charge acceptance (charges faster)
More heat and cold resistant
Self discharges more slowly than a flooded battery (holds charge longer)
Can provide larger bursts of current when needed (More power!)
Better deep cycling ability
Less gassing
No free acid to spill in case of crash
And yes, much better vibration resistance.

Hope that helps!

[Dirt]

i do not know, it is possible AGM charges differently, but why bother , if car did not come with AGM, why do you need it?

Because it's maintenance free and won't vent inside your trunk / cabin of the car.

How many owners will actually go through the trouble to pull the spare to see if the battery needs water?

And AGM charges the same as a conventional battery.

[jackal15]

Ended up replacing mine with an Autocraft H8-AGM. Got it quite cheap from A/A after discount and core charge rebate. Only $20 more than the lead acid recommended here. Had an indy install/code it for $100 (i dont have an OBD tool) and all seems fine. Saved me $140ish over going to dealer.

[isles1]

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/auto...920%7CL2*15000

Seriously good deal with TRT30. And I was so glad they carried them in stock. Intestate battery was 220 and would take 10 business days to order.

This battery is rated at 950 CCA and the factory is 850 CCA. It's the same size and the more cranking amps the better imo.

is this an AGM battery?

[sacandagaD]

is this an AGM battery?

Says "Lead Acid" instead of "Glass mat " so I'd guess no, but as others have stated, do you really need one, or just want one?

[risc427]

isles 1 - No, it is not.

[isles1]

Not sure. The battery I asked about is listed as a direct oem replacement. But is the OEM battery an AGM? Thanks!

[isles1]

Thanks. Looked around and noticed that I can get the Autocraft AGM for $20 more after my discount. See any reason this one won't work?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/a...agm/10210828-P

I decided to go with the Autocraft Platinum AGM.

[Dr GP]

Never coded my battery when I replaced it over a 1 1/2 yrs ago. No issues.

[isles1]

Never coded my battery when I replaced it over a 1 1/2 yrs ago. No issues.

Thanks for the reassurance. Changing mine out this weekend around the 4.5 year mark. No plans to code the new battery.

[isles1]

Anyone see any issue running jumper cables from a second car to the positive post and frame under the hood while swapping the battery? Solely for the purpose of not losing any settings due to lose of power. Thanks.

[Dr GP]

I did not lose any changes I had made using a vag com. Everything else should be easy to return to previous settings. BTW, how do you propose doing that. Either you connect it to the other car before you remove the battery, but I would be concerned about putting 24 volts to the electrical system until the battery was removed. If the battery is totally dead, it would not matter. If you could remove the cables at the exact moment you attached the cable from the other car that might work but accomplishing that might not be easy.Not really sure if it matters.

[isles1]

I just swapped the battery without any backup power. The only settings lost were the convenience window settings (auto up/down with key fob), tire pressure stored settings and trip computer mileage. I had to toggle the window settings on and off via Carista to get it working again.

[PenttisHSR]

you connect it to the other car before you remove the battery, but I would be concerned about putting 24 volts to the electrical system until the battery was removed.

If you connect + to +(red) and - to -(black/earth) between the batteries, they are in parallel = 12v.
You would only get 24v if you connected them in series (+ to - / - to +).

[Jroyalty7]

Necro bump! So was there a consensus reached on the battery replacements? I dont mind paying a little extra for an improved battery, what is everyone using? Those that swapped to aftermarket battery any updates? TIA

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[rnkjr]

Fwiw I installed a NAPA AGM part no 9849. Cost me $189 and is the same size as my OEM. It also has a vent port in the OEM location

[Jroyalty7]

Fwiw I installed a NAPA AGM part no 9849. Cost me $189 and is the same size as my OEM. It also has a vent port in the OEM location

I read AGMs are a superior battery as far as cold start amps etc... so that's good to know. Thank you

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[BucDan]

I was thinking about Costco's battery as the replacement. But any decent battery will do, right?

[quietcropduster]

Fwiw I installed a NAPA AGM part no 9849. Cost me $189 and is the same size as my OEM. It also has a vent port in the OEM location

Jesus 58 lbs!

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[Jroyalty7]

From my research so far all the replacements are super heavy as well, and looking at Optimas it seems they have lost their dependability, plus you need to hand make a bracket to fit them. So I just ordered the Autocraft platinum from advanced auto as others recommended... shrugs... it's an AGM with better than OEM cold crank amps at 950. Wouldve really liked to go the weight savings route but dependability is more important to me. Plus it gives me initiative to lose like 30 lbs. Lmao

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[fillyo]

My indy installed an Interstate AGM battery with coding for $285, really good price. We have $40-60k vehicles here, with all the electronics, I would not be skimping on a cheaper battery.

[Jroyalty7]

My indy installed an Interstate AGM battery with coding for $285, really good price. We have $40-60k vehicles here, with all the electronics, I would not be skimping on a cheaper battery.

The autocraft has very good reviews from multiple sources even several people here. Interstate wants like $289 for the locations near me... I'll take the extra $130 for now and see how it goes. Would love to run interstate but just too much $$$

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[rovision]

Got a Duracell AGM 850 CCA to replace my OEM Moll running out of life after 5 years. Made by Deka in USA. Used a tender battery to keep the power on during the swap and didn't lose anything in terms of functions and mods. It's a H8 size, group 49, and no adaptation needed. About $250 with install. Compared with other brands, comes with a 4y warranty.
I use a lighter plug-in voltmeter and so far charging is very stable at 14.3V while driving.

[BucDan]

The autocraft has very good reviews from multiple sources even several people here. Interstate wants like $289 for the locations near me... I'll take the extra $130 for now and see how it goes. Would love to run interstate but just too much $$$

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I can't seem to find the interstate battery for our S4 on their site. Any idea what battery model code to look for?

[TSTARKZ]

I just swapped the battery without any backup power. The only settings lost were the convenience window settings (auto up/down with key fob), tire pressure stored settings and trip computer mileage. I had to toggle the window settings on and off via Carista to get it working again.

Did the same with a Duralast H8-AGM this weekend. No coding. Only had to set the clock. All other functions and presets remained.


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[Jroyalty7]

This is the one I found

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[khahn]

IMG_0518.JPG Sams Club


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[BucDan]

What's so special with the AGM denotation?