What oil does everyone use?

[Brandon002]

I was always using Mobil1 0W40, yesterday noticed Castrol Edge Full synthetic at the parts store, the 0W40 specifically states it meets VW standards so I picked up 7 quarts along with an M1 high capacity filter figuring I'd give it a try. I believe Audis OE oil is made by Castrol.

Just wondering for kicks what everyone runs in their car.

[n8henn]

I do believe you correct. While under warranty, the dealer ran Castrol in my wife's Passat, however it used to "consume" a substantial amount between oil change intervals. I've since changed her to what I've always ran in the AR with good results. Motul Specific 5w-40 year around. 5000 mi. intervals with a Mann filter. Love this shit! Less "consumption". Quite expensive though.

[PaperToast]

i prefer the new type of oil, works better than used


lubro moly 5w-40 syn is what i run year round

[arjun90]

Hey, I thought only I was allowed to make such threads. Haha, just kidding. I use Motul 5W-40 Xcess Synthetic. Might be overdoing it.

[rollerton]

I use Mobile1 /0w (or 5)w/ 40. Never had any reason to use anything different. There are ..'cheaper' oils to be found. But I figure a $10 or even $20 difference for a less than once a year maintenance (to me) isn't even worth a thought.
I used to always use castrol, but that was mostly on older cars, nothing with technical engine parts. And, I have to say on my old vintage cars I used castrol 'high mileage' or something like that and my oil temps ran noticably lower.

[lost_soul]

mobile 1 0w for summer and 5w for winter with mann filter ftw... havent had any issues yet (knock on wood)

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

[Brandon002]

I put the Castrol Edge in today to replace the M1. Turbos quieted down drastically after about 10 minutes of driving. So take that for what it's worth.

[Brandon002]

mobile 1 0w for summer and 5w for winter with mann filter ftw... havent had any issues yet (knock on wood)

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Why would you run 0w summer and 5w winter? Typically it's the other say around.

[Brandon002]

I use Mobile1 /0w (or 5)w/ 40. Never had any reason to use anything different. There are ..'cheaper' oils to be found. But I figure a $10 or even $20 difference for a less than once a year maintenance (to me) isn't even worth a thought.
I used to always use castrol, but that was mostly on older cars, nothing with technical engine parts. And, I have to say on my old vintage cars I used castrol 'high mileage' or something like that and my oil temps ran noticably lower.

I'm talking about the made in Germany Castrol edge, the one that has VW approval on the bottle. Full synthetic, not the regular syntec or whatever. Its actually a couple dollars a quart cheaper and just as readily available as M1.

[lost_soul]

I live in upstate ny and winters are brutal so I run heavier to help with the cold morning starts

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

[Racin2redline]

I live in upstate ny and winters are brutal so I run heavier to help with the cold morning starts

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

your logic is backwards. I run a 0w40 liqui moly in the winter, I've started my car in 20 below and it always sounds nice and smooth, way smoother than when I ran even 5w 40 all around

[4rings2turbos]

That's going to make it sludgier and thicker, making it slower to get around the engine during that cold start than a 0W, but it makes no difference anyway. A 5W is good to like -25° F anyhow. Usually people go lower grade in the winter to help the oil be more viscous during a cold start because more time without lubrication means more time with metal on metal wear and tear. But like I said, a 5W grade is really good enough for most anyone in the US.

I run Lubro Moly Leichlauf High Tech 5w40

[lost_soul]

That's going to make it sludgier and thicker, making it slower to get around the engine during that cold start than a 0W, but it makes no difference anyway. A 5W is good to like -25° F anyhow. Usually people go lower grade in the winter to help the oil be more viscous during a cold start because more time without lubrication means more time with metal on metal wear and tear. But like I said, a 5W grade is really good enough for most anyone in the US.

I run Lubro Moly Leichlauf High Tech 5w40

huh ... never thought of it that I will have to switch it and see if it makes a difference thanks

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

[ChicagosPhantom]

Used to use M1,switched to Motul Specific and I'm very satisfied.Never had to refill between oil changes (5k) and it gets less dark/black then M1.
At the time I was considering switching I was thinking going Castrol,but went wit Motul and staying with it.
Fuchs is oil that Dynarev service is using for their customers.
They did oil change before my skiing trip to Aspen couple years ago.Almost 2.5K miles round trip,oil level didn't dropped a bit and was good as it was just changed.
Run that for next 4K miles it held very well.Good shit,but it wasn't that available,even through vendors online at that time,so I went with Motul,but might've stick with Fuchs if it was easier to get.
Anyone considering switched from anything they using,should try this one.

[Brandon002]

Youre supposed to run thinner in winter man. That way it gets pumped up through the engine faster. Thicker oil in cold climates is horrible for cold starts.

[beardman]

Sorry to thread jack

What about Rotella T6? I read that a fair number of people were running it so I figured I'd give it a shot (always an M1 guy previously). I replaced my oil sensor at the same time, but my temps went up and are hovering around 250 now! Could be a bad sensor, but I'm just wondering what everyone else is experiencing with Rotella.

[4rings2turbos]

I used to run Rotella until it got too expensive for what it is. I had good results in my two 2.7T but the oil analysis came back better after switching to Lubro Moly.

And for the record a 5W grade is far from a thick multigrade oil and will not be horrible for cold start.

[Racin2redline]

Sorry to thread jack

What about Rotella T6? I read that a fair number of people were running it so I figured I'd give it a shot (always an M1 guy previously). I replaced my oil sensor at the same time, but my temps went up and are hovering around 250 now! Could be a bad sensor, but I'm just wondering what everyone else is experiencing with Rotella.

my car ran warm with it too, but I think it's more or less the way its driven. in the summer heat after a few WOT pulls ive had it tick a little after the line before 250, but usually it runs around 1/4 the way up or slightly higher

[beardman]

my car ran warm with it too, but I think it's more or less the way its driven. in the summer heat after a few WOT pulls ive had it tick a little after the line before 250, but usually it runs around 1/4 the way up or slightly higher

Thanks for the info, just wanted to make sure I wasn't going crazy. I think I'll be going back to M1 after this. I ready a long whitepaper once on the moisture repellancy of M1 full synthetic vs other synthetics. This was a few years ago, but it was FAR superior to other choices.

[lost_soul]

oh man am I confused .... so do I stay with 5w or switch since ive been doing it backwards for years lol

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

[lost_soul]

I'm talking about the made in Germany Castrol edge, the one that has VW approval on the bottle. Full synthetic, not the regular syntec or whatever. Its actually a couple dollars a quart cheaper and just as readily available as M1.

definitely ganna keep this as a backup for when theirs no m1 on the shelves

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

[NuGGet_PuFFer]

I use shell rotella t6 and never had any issues.

[LINDW4LL]

I also use the Shell Rotella T6.

[V1nny]

I live in upstate ny and winters are brutal so I run heavier to help with the cold morning starts

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Its totally opposite, when cold you need that first number lower, not higher. Ideally zero, as in 0w40. That helps oil to get to the top of the engine faster on a cold start. Fully synthetic oil 5W-anything is not bad for cold either, but 0 is ideal.
As for the original question, I tend to agree that M1 0W40 European formula is the best. M1 5W30 is the worst. Anything else like Castrol, Valvoline, Rotella T6 are somewhere in between. Only oil where my 140K miles Stage 3 2.7t 01 consume almost no oil, maybe half a quart between changes.

[lost_soul]

Its totally opposite, when cold you need that first number lower, not higher. Ideally zero, as in 0w40. That helps oil to get to the top of the engine faster on a cold start. Fully synthetic oil 5W-anything is not bad for cold either, but 0 is ideal.
As for the original question, I tend to agree that M1 0W40 European formula is the best. M1 5W30 is the worst. Anything else like Castrol, Valvoline, Rotella T6 are somewhere in between. Only oil where my 140K miles Stage 3 2.7t 01 consume almost no oil, maybe half a quart between changes.

man I feel like the motor oil police is going to fine me lol .... ill be changing to 0w this winter see if I notice any difference in cold start .... for the other oils mentioned is it 5w40 or something else used rhanks

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

[Brandon002]

Drove 2 hours round trip at about 80mph yesterday with the A/C on.

Castrol Edge ran about 10 degrees cooler than the Mobil1 I replaced.

[CJKaz]

Whatever's on sale. Piece of shit burns and leaks so much f'ing oil. Total between filter changes, at least 12 qt.

[4rings2turbos]

:O

[NuGGet_PuFFer]

Whatever's on sale. Piece of shit burns and leaks so much f'ing oil. Total between filter changes, at least 12 qt.

That poor car :(

[CJKaz]

Yep, meticulously maintained by an oil industry reliability engineer. VAG approved Castrol synthetic since bought at 25k miles. Once the consumption started at around 90k miles, switched to high mileage oil. The 4.2 V8 is a notorious oil burner.

All of the speculation on oil grades and service specifications, that have been going on for years on every imaginable auto site, can be answered by researching the API site:

http://www.api.org/Certification-Pro...ategories.aspx

[kleinewunder]

The 4.2 V8 is a notorious oil burner.

Beg to differ. Have always run 5W40 full synthetic (Pentosin) at 10K intervals. Now at 170K miles. Have never had to add oil.

[CJKaz]

Beg to differ. Have always run 5W40 full synthetic (Pentosin) at 10K intervals. Now at 170K miles. Have never had to add oil.

More of these engines were used in the S4 models, many engines replaced under warranty for oil consumption. They were likely driven more aggressively. The remaining ones are now dropping due to timing chain failures.

[Brandon002]

More of these engines were used in the S4 models, many engines replaced under warranty for oil consumption. They were likely driven more aggressively. The remaining ones are now dropping due to timing chain failures.

Different engine I believe. The 4.2 in the S4 was a timing chain motor while the C5 A6 got a timing belt motor.

[kleinewunder]

More of these engines were used in the S4 models

They're not the same engine. If you stick to the service schedule, the V8s used in the A6 4.2 are quite reliable, and they do not burn oil.

[V1nny]

This discussion would make more sense, if we did not try to apply it to 3 different engines: belt driven NA 4.2 in A/S6, chain driven 4.2 in allroad, and 2.7 turbo. Maybe even 4 different engines, considering difference between early and late 2.7t.

[CJKaz]

A6 uses the timing belt type 4.2l. Allroad, S4 use the timing chain engine. Different spec but same chain drive on the back side of the engine.

http://jalopnik.com/here-s-why-the-v...car-1676466510

[frankwizzle]

There was an extensive discussion about this a few months ago in the b5s4 forum.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/627837

[NuGGet_PuFFer]

A6 uses the timing belt type 4.2l. Allroad, S4 use the timing chain engine. Different spec but same chain drive on the back side of the engine.

http://jalopnik.com/here-s-why-the-v...car-1676466510

Can't trust a guy that spells "allroad" with a capital A, smh.

[CJKaz]

Can't trust a guy that spells "allroad" with a capital A, smh.

Beginning of a sentence, autocorrect took over. I'm a nit picker for grammar, hackles raise when I hear of someone's "build" of "install".

[allroadmark]

Different engine I believe. The 4.2 in the S4 was a timing chain motor while the C5 A6 got a timing belt motor.

allroad c5 got same engine as s4 with a different tune for a flatter torque curve to suit allroads offroadability. they used the chain engine to keep the nose short and help with approach angles.
s6 got the belt v8.