Clutch identification

**g huns** · 07-12-2015 12:04 PM

Anybody know where this came from?

I've googled the D80189 number and searched AZ for it as well as the PHT. Came up with nothing.

The flywheel side is good, but I'm thinking the pressure plate side might be my problem...

Clutch only had about 25K on it. Guy I bought it from had the receipt from his mechanic but no mention of what kind of clutch he put in it. I'm guessing whatever was cheapest.

**Scotty@Advanced** · 07-12-2015 12:50 PM

It looks like a stock clutch.

**csosnowski** · 07-12-2015 01:02 PM

Duralast / Clutch Set

Part Number: NU31390
Line Code: PHT

**g huns** · 07-12-2015 01:09 PM

No Audi rings anywhere. The roached out original was in the trunk when I bought the car. I seem to remember it was stamped, not just printed on markings.

Is it common for one to come apart like that? Friction material is still a decent thickness, the pressure plate side just came apart.

**g huns** · 07-12-2015 01:14 PM

Originally Posted by csosnowski

Duralast / Clutch Set

Part Number: NU31390
Line Code: PHT

That would explain it. Hey, I see it has a lifetime warranty. Maybe I get another one fo free

**csosnowski** · 07-12-2015 03:59 PM

The friction surface doesn't look that old, I'd say you have a decent chance.

**g huns** · 07-12-2015 04:04 PM

I was kidding.

I'm goin OEM. Don't really wanna do this again in 25K.

**SJorge3442** · 07-12-2015 04:31 PM

Originally Posted by g huns

I was kidding.

I'm goin OEM. Don't really wanna do this again in 25K.

Rock auto generally has the best prices on Luk clutch parts.

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**johnwiz** · 07-12-2015 04:39 PM

I actually found a cheaper price on a LUK DMF and clutch set on Amazon (this was for a 2.8L Passat FWD) then on RockAuto. Checked out both.

**g huns** · 07-12-2015 04:49 PM

159.69 on Amazon. Will check Rock tomorrow. Thanks.

**brady.** · 07-12-2015 05:03 PM

i found partsgeek had the cheapest prices when i did my 3.0 swap (for luk parts). id check them out too. good luck on the hunt for best price.

**SJorge3442** · 07-12-2015 05:08 PM

Originally Posted by brady.

i found partsgeek had the cheapest prices when i did my 3.0 swap (for luk parts). id check them out too. good luck on the hunt for best price.

Not to get off topic, but how has shipping been with parts geek? I've read horror stories of them shipping the wrong parts and taking forever to ship. I've avoided the company at all costs after I read about their terrible customer service.

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**g huns** · 07-13-2015 07:21 AM

For a bone stock daily driver, any reason not to just get the dual mass flywheel resurfaced?

**SJorge3442** · 07-13-2015 07:36 AM

Originally Posted by g huns

For a bone stock daily driver, any reason not to just get the dual mass flywheel resurfaced?

Eh. That's a toss up. Unlike a smfw, the dual mass is a wearable part. The bushings and springs inside the flywheel degrade and fail. Since the new dmfw is only another 150-200 I'd recommend just swapping the old one for a new one.

Oh and I've been told its hard to find a shop that can resurface a dmfw.

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**Charles.waite** · 07-13-2015 07:46 AM

Personally I would go with the valeo single mass conversion kit. I absolutely loved mine. I wish they made a 240mm kit so I could put one on my b7...

**g huns** · 07-13-2015 07:57 AM

Originally Posted by SJorge3442

Oh and I've been told its hard to find a shop that can resurface a dmfw.

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South Bend Clutch is local to me. They can do it. They will check it out and make sure it's worth resurfacing. The guy I talked to said very few are worth it.

Originally Posted by Charles.waite

Personally I would go with the valeo single mass conversion kit. I absolutely loved mine.

What's better about about the single mass?

**SJorge3442** · 07-13-2015 08:01 AM

Originally Posted by g huns

South Bend Clutch is local to me. They can do it. They will check it out and make sure it's worth resurfacing. The guy I talked to said very few are worth it.

What's better about about the single mass?

Smfw weigh much less. Less rotating mass for the engine to have to overcome. Should help the car rev a little faster. Their not as forgiving as the dmfw and sometimes they cause clutch chatter/vibration at low rpms. Personally, I'd go with a single mass. There's no moving parts to fail. At 115k the clutch on my 3.0 still had tons of life, but the damn dmfw is what failed.

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**g huns** · 07-13-2015 08:15 AM

Originally Posted by SJorge3442

Smfw weigh much less. Less rotating mass for the engine to have to overcome. Should help the car rev a little faster. Their not as forgiving as the dmfw and sometimes they cause clutch chatter/vibration at low rpms. Personally, I'd go with a single mass. There's no moving parts to fail. At 115k the clutch on my 3.0 still had tons of life, but the damn dmfw is what failed.

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My wife sometimes drives it. She needs "forgiving".

I trust SBC to tell if it's worth cleaning up. If they say no, I'll give that Valeo kit serious thought. Does it require a new, mo-better harmonic balance pulley for the increased vibration?

**Charles.waite** · 07-13-2015 08:18 AM

The other benefit is price. For less than $400 you get a new flywheel, pp, and disc, and all the various hardware.

Mine drove as smoothly as stock ( actually waaaay better than my blown 95k mile stock clutch) and there is less to go wrong or fail. The only downside was a tad more vibration at lower rpms. It might be a good idea to get the flywheel spin balanced before install. I sort of wish I had with mine. But engagement was super smooth, no shuddering whatsoever on engagement once the 200 mile breakin was done.

**Matt Devo** · 07-13-2015 08:32 AM

Originally Posted by SJorge3442

Smfw weigh much less. Less rotating mass for the engine to have to overcome. Should help the car rev a little faster. Their not as forgiving as the dmfw and sometimes they cause clutch chatter/vibration at low rpms. Personally, I'd go with a single mass. There's no moving parts to fail. At 115k the clutch on my 3.0 still had tons of life, but the damn dmfw is what failed.

the SMFW in the Valeo kit in question has a similar weight to the OEM DMFW, it's not a LWFW.

**texasboy21** · 07-13-2015 08:35 AM

Originally Posted by g huns

My wife sometimes drives it. She needs "forgiving".

I trust SBC to tell if it's worth cleaning up. If they say no, I'll give that Valeo kit serious thought. Does it require a new, mo-better harmonic balance pulley for the increased vibration?

The Valeo single mass flywheel not much lighter than the stock dual-mass, 20 something pounds compared to the ~25lbs dual-mass, so the increase in noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) should be minimal.

For comparison, the ECS lightweight flywheel (11lbs) which revs considerably quicker than stock chatters loud enough with the AC on you can hear it outside the car a few feet away.

For a stock to stockish car the Valeo SMFW is the way to go without spending "upgraded clutch" money.

**Charles.waite** · 07-13-2015 09:08 AM

Originally Posted by g huns

My wife sometimes drives it. She needs "forgiving".

I trust SBC to tell if it's worth cleaning up. If they say no, I'll give that Valeo kit serious thought. Does it require a new, mo-better harmonic balance pulley for the increased vibration?

My valeo drove exactly like stock. Pedal feel was the same. Engagement was the same. Super easy to modulate.

As was stated, it's not a lightweight flywheel, it's only a few lbs lighter than stock, but it eliminates the dual mass element. So it's more reliable.

**g huns** · 07-13-2015 09:28 AM

I think I'm sticking with dual mass. If SBC says my current DMFW is even a little sketchy, a new Luk DMFW is $180 on Amazon. Still ends up cheaper than the Valeo SMFW kit.

It's pretty unlikely I'll be driving the car when a new DMFW gets to the point of failure. And with a kid in college and another one headed there next year, no serious performance mods are in my future.

Thanks for all the advice.

**Charles.waite** · 07-13-2015 09:39 AM

Hmm. Didn't know a new dual mass was so cheap. If oem makes you feel better that's what's important. Clutches are either a massive pain or insanely expensive to install. So doing it right the first time is really the most important thing.

For comparison, a new dual mass for b7 is somewhere in the neighborhood of $700. Yikes.

**g huns** · 07-13-2015 09:50 AM

Originally Posted by Charles.waite

Clutches are either a massive pain or insanely expensive to install.

So far, I'm going with a massive pain. That bottom, center bolt, the one just above the crossmember, almost made me go for the torch. Wrestling the 4L80E out of my old Suburban was a lot more fun than this.

Luk sells their stuff cheap on Amazon, so my wallet isn't hurting that bad.

**Charles.waite** · 07-13-2015 09:56 AM

Originally Posted by g huns

So far, I'm going with a massive pain. That bottom, center bolt, the one just above the crossmember, almost made me go for the torch. Wrestling the 4L80E out of my old Suburban was a lot more fun than this.

Luk sells their stuff cheap on Amazon, so my wallet isn't hurting that bad.

Oh it's super fun alright. I did mine on jackstands in my buddy's garage. If I were doing it again (and I will be on my b7 soonish) I would pull the engine and tranny in one go and do the clutch outside of the car. So much more room to work.

**SJorge3442** · 07-13-2015 10:12 AM

Originally Posted by Charles.waite

Oh it's super fun alright. I did mine on jackstands in my buddy's garage. If I were doing it again (and I will be on my b7 soonish) I would pull the engine and tranny in one go and do the clutch outside of the car. So much more room to work.

After doing mine on the ground once I would probably pull the engine the next time. Then again, I didn't reuse the bottom three bell housing bolts so that alone would save me a few hours work. If/when I have to do it again, I think I could do it in a day. Took me like 18 hours total last time.

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**g huns** · 07-13-2015 10:56 AM

Originally Posted by SJorge3442

Then again, I didn't reuse the bottom three bell housing bolts so that alone would save me a few hours work.

The outer bottom 2 bolts weren't that bad. But that center one ain't goin back in. It seems to me like it has plenty to hold it together without it.

**SJorge3442** · 07-13-2015 11:01 AM

Originally Posted by g huns

The outer bottom 2 bolts weren't that bad. But that center one ain't goin back in. It seems to me like it has plenty to hold it together without it.

Depends on if you had the Allen head bolts or the normal bolts. I had the Allen and had to raise the engine and lower the subframe to get to them.

Plenty of high horse power cars at the drag strip are missing bell housing bolts. Three missing along 4 inches of the total bell housing perimeter aren't going to bother anything.

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**g huns** · 07-13-2015 11:24 AM

Mine had 16mm hex heads, with a 6 or 8mm allen in the middle. At least I think the bottom 3 all did.

I removed the two nuts on the transmission mount and jacked up on it until I heard heat shield getting crunched, then jacked up the motor as far as I thought was safe. That still wasn't enough. Had my buddy wedge a prybar between the motor and the subframe and give it a little tweak. It was just enough to get a wrench on it and break it loose. When that subframe was being designed, a little notch right below that middle bolt sure woulda been nice.

I have a plenty of room to work on it. My garage is still all emptied out from my kid's graduation party. I also have some pretty tall jackstands so it's not that bad.

**brady.** · 07-13-2015 01:11 PM

also note that the valeo smfw kit is only for 1.8t and not the 3.0

i forget which site had it listed as 3.0 but it was same exact part numbers as 1.8t. so unless they do their own in house modifying...

in regards to parts geek shipping, i have not had an issue yet. ordered my entire clutch swap with them.

(and ordering my brake calipers, etc now).

just make sure you are ordering the right parts as their site navigation and product description is pretty poor.

EDIT: those bottom trans bolts are a flipping joke. i left the very bottom one out for future ease. some will argue for or against this. your call i guess

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**brady.** · 07-13-2015 01:58 PM

also: parts you may want to possibly replace: the release bearing, release lever, intermediate pin plastic piece, the clamp and screw for intermediate plastic piece and lever (this could be a spring with a few extra parts depending on your car), slave cylinder since you are there? (your call on this). copper and lithium grease for clutch install.

(lithium is for the slave boot during reinstall, it was the hardest part for me. hard to not break it at the same time. you have to super uber finesse during this part). i also replaced my exhaust studs and bolts, they could snap on reinstall. also do you have new gaskets and clamps for exhaust reinstall?

EDIT ALSO: !!! i do not know how the 1.8t is. 3.0 the pilot bearing comes pressed into the 3.0 flywheel. the 1.8t i believe is not so. you may want a new pilot bearing also if 1.8t. 3.0 no need as it comes with the flywheel.

EDIEDIT: make sure whichever kit you purchase it comes with a clutch install guide tool thingy.

**g huns** · 07-14-2015 09:03 AM

I got a new slave cylinder and pilot bearing. Think my clutch kit comes with the pilot bearing, but with Amazon, you never know till you open the box so I bought one from ECS just to be sure. Recently replaced my down pipe, so exhaust came apart easy and will go back together with same hardware.

Had my wife drop off my flywheel at SBC. The guy I talked to yesterday said they'd inspect it and see if it was worth resurfacing. He never asked me how many miles it had on it. He asked the wife, she told him 130K. He told her to buy a new one.

Amazon had two different LuK DMFWs. One for $180 and one for $250. I had her get the number off my old one and it's the $180 one.

So for $340 in parts, I am back to 100% OEM. Of course that doesn't include the rear main seal, the input shaft seal, the 2 new motor mounts, the snub mount, the liter of blake fluid, flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts...

**brady.** · 07-14-2015 01:23 PM

Originally Posted by g huns

I got a new slave cylinder and pilot bearing. Think my clutch kit comes with the pilot bearing, but with Amazon, you never know till you open the box so I bought one from ECS just to be sure. Recently replaced my down pipe, so exhaust came apart easy and will go back together with same hardware.

Had my wife drop off my flywheel at SBC. The guy I talked to yesterday said they'd inspect it and see if it was worth resurfacing. He never asked me how many miles it had on it. He asked the wife, she told him 130K. He told her to buy a new one.

Amazon had two different LuK DMFWs. One for $180 and one for $250. I had her get the number off my old one and it's the $180 one.

So for $340 in parts, I am back to 100% OEM. Of course that doesn't include the rear main seal, the input shaft seal, the 2 new motor mounts, the snub mount, the liter of blake fluid, flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts...

and this!!!!

the release bearing, release lever, intermediate pin plastic piece, the clamp and screw for intermediate plastic piece and lever (this could be a spring with a few extra parts depending on your car)

you should really do these parts. tiny "cheap" ish parts that you will facepalm hard if they fail soon after doing a clutch repair. i would do it considering your 130,000 miles and piece of mind.

**g huns** · 07-17-2015 07:03 AM

I got everything except the release lever. For $60, I'll take my chances. Mine has no cracks or any signs of wear.

I had trouble tracking down a few of the pieces. Here are the part numbers in case anyone is ever looking...

The plastic "intermediate" piece, basically a saddle for the release level to ride on is #012141751C

The ball pin, a hex bolt with a plastic head stuck on top is #02A141777D(may end with a "B" depending on your application)

The spring clip that retains release lever is #012141741

Still waiting on some stuff to arrive. Got everything cleaned up last night. Drove the pilot bearing out. Tonight I'm shooting for getting the new rear main seal and clutch assembly in place. Have to wait till Saturday when I have some help to get the transmission back up and in.

**brady.** · 07-17-2015 07:45 AM

Originally Posted by g huns

I got everything except the release lever. For $60, I'll take my chances. Mine has no cracks or any signs of wear.

I had trouble tracking down a few of the pieces. Here are the part numbers in case anyone is ever looking...

The plastic "intermediate" piece, basically a saddle for the release level to ride on is #012141751C

The ball pin, a hex bolt with a plastic head stuck on top is #02A141777D(may end with a "B" depending on your application)

The spring clip that retains release lever is #012141741

Still waiting on some stuff to arrive. Got everything cleaned up last night. Drove the pilot bearing out. Tonight I'm shooting for getting the new rear main seal and clutch assembly in place. Have to wait till Saturday when I have some help to get the transmission back up and in.

nice! good luck bud. hope all goes well

**g huns** · 07-17-2015 04:05 PM

Anybody got a foolproof method for installing the rear main seal? I also noticed the old one had silicone sealant on the bottom. I am sure mine is factory original. Is good old blue permatex good enough?

**SJorge3442** · 07-17-2015 04:46 PM

Originally Posted by g huns

Anybody got a foolproof method for installing the rear main seal? I also noticed the old one had silicone sealant on the bottom. I am sure mine is factory original. Is good old blue permatex good enough?

I think Audi uses their special black sealant that's like $50/oz. I'd use black permatex. I think that's rated better for parts that see oil contact than the blue stuff. Don't quote me on that though.

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